KP Technologies Window roll up module install 3G Garage #I-097
#362
Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Owings Mills, MD
Age: 48
Posts: 565
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Finally got around to installing this. Decided to solder all of the connections even though my soldering skills are pretty poor. Some of the connections were a little ugly but solid so figured they were alright and wrapped each real good with electrical tape. Tested it once after reconnecting everything, but before putting the door panel back on, and nothing. Then realized I didn't have the door pin pushed in to tell the car the door was shut. Tried again and it worked which was a relief.
After I put everything back together I tried again and......nothing. Tried several more times and still nothing. Came back to read more posts about it and figured it had to be my timing. After messing with it for at least 10 more minutes I realized I was actually waiting too long for the second press. For some reason mine works if you do the second almost immediately after the first which seems to go against what everybody else has said. Strange, but at least it works!
Thanks to all that posted here with useful info. Definitely couldn't have done it without the OP's post.
After I put everything back together I tried again and......nothing. Tried several more times and still nothing. Came back to read more posts about it and figured it had to be my timing. After messing with it for at least 10 more minutes I realized I was actually waiting too long for the second press. For some reason mine works if you do the second almost immediately after the first which seems to go against what everybody else has said. Strange, but at least it works!
Thanks to all that posted here with useful info. Definitely couldn't have done it without the OP's post.
#367
Looking for new mods
Yeah its possible kid. I have it set that way... well Rodney hooked it up for me. If i put my switch on position 2, i can tap the lock button twice to close all windows.
#368
i wired mine up with the t tap. it worked the first time.. so i put my panels on... the next day i went to try it and it doesnt work. i opened my panels again and took the t taps out and hard wired it..still doesnt work..the blue light doesnt even come one anymore...i have both alarms on my car the stock and viper 2 way..you think the kp module got fried?
#369
Pro
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Owings Mills, MD
Age: 48
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From what I've read in this thread, if you think it got fried, the first thing you should do is open up the module and look for any physical damage (burnt connections, etc.).
I thought mine wasn't working (same as you, worked before I put the panel back on but not after) but it turned out I was just waiting too long for the second button press. From what I read, I was under the impression you had to wait longer than you really do. I assume you've tried messing with your timing already, but if you haven't, definitely try that before taking it apart again. Good luck.
I thought mine wasn't working (same as you, worked before I put the panel back on but not after) but it turned out I was just waiting too long for the second button press. From what I read, I was under the impression you had to wait longer than you really do. I assume you've tried messing with your timing already, but if you haven't, definitely try that before taking it apart again. Good luck.
#370
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
i wired mine up with the t tap. it worked the first time.. so i put my panels on... the next day i went to try it and it doesnt work. i opened my panels again and took the t taps out and hard wired it..still doesnt work..the blue light doesnt even come one anymore...i have both alarms on my car the stock and viper 2 way..you think the kp module got fried?
Check your fuses!
#371
Leather so soft.
iTrader: (2)
From what I've read in this thread, if you think it got fried, the first thing you should do is open up the module and look for any physical damage (burnt connections, etc.).
I thought mine wasn't working (same as you, worked before I put the panel back on but not after) but it turned out I was just waiting too long for the second button press. From what I read, I was under the impression you had to wait longer than you really do. I assume you've tried messing with your timing already, but if you haven't, definitely try that before taking it apart again. Good luck.
I thought mine wasn't working (same as you, worked before I put the panel back on but not after) but it turned out I was just waiting too long for the second button press. From what I read, I was under the impression you had to wait longer than you really do. I assume you've tried messing with your timing already, but if you haven't, definitely try that before taking it apart again. Good luck.
ima open it up.....thanks.
#375
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
I just finished installing this module on my 06TL. For anyone hesitating because they are unsure of wiring, don't know how to remove door panels, etc--STOP! This is an easy mod---WAY easier than I thought.
The picture I quoted proved to be the most helpful to me as it shows precisely where all of the taps need to be made.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread for making it as painless an install as it turned out to be.
Now go get yourself one of these and install it already!
[/I]
The picture I quoted proved to be the most helpful to me as it shows precisely where all of the taps need to be made.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread for making it as painless an install as it turned out to be.
Now go get yourself one of these and install it already!
[/I]
helraiser: 22-18 gauge wire taps are fine. They're easier to fix than splicing anyway.
Since you claimed earlier that you fried the module, do you think it still works? I think you need to find a multimeter to test your connections.
I added some notes to one of FAST4DR's pictures. This is how it looks like for the TL. Are you sure there isn't a gray plug above the two wire connectors for the TSX?
Remember that he tapped into the white window connector and is not using the loom behind the speaker, but, in comparing the two installs, both the KP green wire taps into that same gray plug on top for the TL.
Since you claimed earlier that you fried the module, do you think it still works? I think you need to find a multimeter to test your connections.
I added some notes to one of FAST4DR's pictures. This is how it looks like for the TL. Are you sure there isn't a gray plug above the two wire connectors for the TSX?
Remember that he tapped into the white window connector and is not using the loom behind the speaker, but, in comparing the two installs, both the KP green wire taps into that same gray plug on top for the TL.
#376
Also, Am I safe to assume that we can use this as a window down module too? I mean, in theory all you have to do is connect the Green (Door Lock switch output) to the Door Unlock Switch wire. And then Connect the Blue (Door Lock motor Input) to the Door Unlock Motor Wire. Reason i say this, is that it would be better to just press the unlock button twice and let the module do the rest.
Or has this already been thought about?
#381
Install Complete
It took me about and hour for my 08 TL. I checked each wire with a DMM for the behavior described in the KP Tech instructions. The posted instructions were perfect, it worked first time. Thanks everyone.
#382
#383
The KP yellow wire gets 12v to prevent the module from activating while the car is running. Using the OP wiring recommendation, when you shut off the car then open and close a door (stopping 12v to the windows and the yellow wire) you can activate the inside door lock button twice and the roll up will engage.
Thinking about not hooking up that yellow wire...
#384
If any other users have the yellow wire disconected they could report on the functionality they observe.
#385
under renovations....
iTrader: (2)
Just installed mine yesterday along with my moleskins so I can tint. I soldered all my connections so I don't have to worry about that. Everything worked the first time so I'm pleased with this this install. The only thing I have to get down packed is the timing part which at some point will be secondhand nature. Just gotta keep fiddling with it. The install took about a half hour altogether.
#386
Racer
We rely on the yellow wire to provide a redundent ignition kill to prevent "auto upping" the windows while driving.
#387
Jokerman
i was wondering if there was a way to reverse this mod. i.e. with two clicks of the unlock button, the windows roll down. this would be helpful for when i get an aftermarket alarm when i get my remote start. the window roll down mod for the aftermarket alarm cost 100-150.
#388
I had the similar thought as you jokerman. asked that question here, and people said "the car already does it" Only issue is you have to hold onto the unlock the 2nd time. I also wanted to use a KP unit to window down as well.
Looking at the manual it seems plausible. Just connect the KP Blue wire to the Driver Door Unlock wire (yellow/green) And the KP Green wire to the White wire that feeds from the door lock cylinder to the BCM. (white wire will be towards car side of connector).
Wanna order one, and then install both at the same time, and see if it works. In theory it should work as you can lower the windows from the key hole right?
Looking at the manual it seems plausible. Just connect the KP Blue wire to the Driver Door Unlock wire (yellow/green) And the KP Green wire to the White wire that feeds from the door lock cylinder to the BCM. (white wire will be towards car side of connector).
Wanna order one, and then install both at the same time, and see if it works. In theory it should work as you can lower the windows from the key hole right?
#389
Racer
We've got a product that we don't have on our website that would be better suited - it is the HM20 with a second actuator input and a second control output. It will put the windows down if you hit "lock" "unlock" and will put them up with a "lock" "lock" command.
However, our modules are designed ONLY for the OEM alarm - we can't guarentee they will work with aftermarket systems.
However, our modules are designed ONLY for the OEM alarm - we can't guarentee they will work with aftermarket systems.
#390
We've got a product that we don't have on our website that would be better suited - it is the HM20 with a second actuator input and a second control output. It will put the windows down if you hit "lock" "unlock" and will put them up with a "lock" "lock" command.
However, our modules are designed ONLY for the OEM alarm - we can't guarentee they will work with aftermarket systems.
However, our modules are designed ONLY for the OEM alarm - we can't guarentee they will work with aftermarket systems.
Understandable that you can't guarantee it to work with an aftermarket alarm, But its all tied into the actual door lock motor wiring which is then controlled by the alarm. So I think it should work....
Also, that unit controls sunroof as well?
#391
Racer
We've never had any demand for them so we never added them to the site. The price is $10 more for the added features. The timing is identical between both versions of the module. Most people aren't interested in this because the car can already do this from the factory.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
#392
We've never had any demand for them so we never added them to the site. The price is $10 more for the added features. The timing is identical between both versions of the module. Most people aren't interested in this because the car can already do this from the factory.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
#393
Jokerman
We've never had any demand for them so we never added them to the site. The price is $10 more for the added features. The timing is identical between both versions of the module. Most people aren't interested in this because the car can already do this from the factory.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
Most aftermarket alarms are "smart" enough to know if the doors are locked and won't issue consecutive door lock commands if you repeatedly push the "ARM" button. Since our module works off of actual lock actuator pulses this means our module won't work with most aftermarket systems.
Both versions work through the key cylinder, so if the key in your key cylinder opens and/or closes the sunroof the module will do the same.
We can upgrade modules if you send them back to us.
#394
All KPtechnologies products carry a 'no questions asked' warranty. If it is damaged we will fix it for free.
#395
#396
#398
Agree...
Cuz, in my case, while using the Taps, I put too much pressure that I accidentally cut the wires.
And to solve it, I had to buy wires/cable to make the fix...
So, I guess probably is a loose connection....
Cuz, in my case, while using the Taps, I put too much pressure that I accidentally cut the wires.
And to solve it, I had to buy wires/cable to make the fix...
So, I guess probably is a loose connection....
#399
under renovations....
iTrader: (2)
You're best bet is to solder everything. I did that and have had no problems whatsoever. I even realized that once you hit the lock button once, wait like half a second then hit it again so it beeps then the windows will close. I was hitting the lock button three times which was my mistake at first.
#400
04TL4L
You're best bet is to solder everything. I did that and have had no problems whatsoever. I even realized that once you hit the lock button once, wait like half a second then hit it again so it beeps then the windows will close. I was hitting the lock button three times which was my mistake at first.