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^ Thanks for the tip! Since im doing the SS clutch line and SC, how much honda brake fluid will i need to bleed it? 1 or 2 bottles? Thanks!
My buddy did the bleeding. Get 2 bottles just in case. Better to have more than not enough on a job like this.
I did mine about 2 years ago now so I don't remember all the details, but I do recall trying out a spoon, one of those picks with a flat end on it, a small precision flat head screwdriver and fine needle nose pliers to get under one of the ends of the rings. I don't remember which one worked but you get the idea right, stop it from spinning, lift and grab it. Look around and use what you have for tools.
I used my thumb and worked against a corner wall or inside a cardboard box in case it went off flying.
^ Thanks again for the tips! I just ordered a new SC and will be ordering the Ss line soon. Ill get 2 bottles for sure. I will let you all know how it goes getting the ring off. Wish me luck
I am going to order a new SC to perform this surgery on, and possibly a stainless clutch line. What are the benefits to the stainless line... firmer pedal and that's it?
Just put in some GMSFM over the weekend... Holy sh*t. I had BAD third and fourth gear issues. Almost 1 out of every 5 shifts it wouldn't take third, and when it did it still felt like the gate had two stages... like I'd push and it'd move, then I'd push more and be in gear. Now, it practically falls into gear with one smooth click.
Some of you might not have had the 3rd gear TSB work done on your car? I think mine did, which would explain why no issues going into any gear with the Honda fluid
Some of you might not have had the 3rd gear TSB work done on your car? I think mine did, which would explain why no issues going into any gear with the Honda fluid
My car had it done twice. Once at 11k miles with the original owner and I did it again at 40k (I bought it with 37k but didn't realize the issue right away). By 60k it was worse than before andI just lived with it until this past weekend... at 90,600. Instantly perfect. Even all the other gears feel better/smoother gated now too.
Except I'm still on the Honda fluid. Works fine for me and I've read a story or two about the GM fluid fucking shit up inside the tranny after some good mileage, so why mess with it if you don't have any 3rd gear issues. I think some guys claim the fluid over heats compared to Hondas fluid. I have no idea if true or not so take it with a grain of salt.
The ring sucks to remove, but I was able to get mine out with a pick after wrestling with it for a minute or two. Tip: careful where you do this, as the ring can fly out and you'll never find it again.
I had a slight 3rd gear pop out at around 28k miles that was quite annoying. GM syncromesh fluid took that away instantly.
If I get to the point of worrying about fluid in my tranny now that GM has done its job I might switch to a 1/2 Honda 1/2 GM fluid down the road.
I am going to order a new SC to perform this surgery on, and possibly a stainless clutch line. What are the benefits to the stainless line... firmer pedal and that's it?
I had a slight 3rd gear pop out at around 28k miles that was quite annoying. GM syncromesh fluid took that away instantly.
If I get to the point of worrying about fluid in my tranny now that GM has done its job I might switch to a 1/2 Honda 1/2 GM fluid down the road.
How many miles you got now?
I'm thinking it can't be a widespread issue otherwise many here would have problems idk
I have an 04 which never had the 3rd gear fix done...was never really bad either. I noticed the gears felt much smoother to me with the GM stuff. I'd never go back...science can't really prove it, for me...I just know how it feels.
On my work PC all the images are blocked showing what the hell everyone's talking about with these picks and dremels...
You need to locate the cap that is retained by a spring/C clip and cut a notch in the ledge above the cap that is deep enough to allow the clip to be removed. I don't think I have any pics but, I"ll look. I think the clip can be removed without cutting the groove (about 1/8 inch wide ) above the cap, the issue is its a pain and the clip can go flying and it's super thin and small.
You need to locate the cap that is retained by a spring/C clip and cut a notch in the ledge above the cap that is deep enough to allow the clip to be removed. I don't think I have any pics but, I"ll look. I think the clip can be removed without cutting the groove (about 1/8 inch wide ) above the cap, the issue is its a pain and the clip can go flying and it's super thin and small.
I'm really hoping to avoid purchasing a Dremel. I work in IT and I have a workbench area and lots of tools meant for tiny things. So, if you get that cap off, then you just have to slide/push out that metal piece, then remove the plastic thing behind it, and re-assemble the whole mess?
Well a half hour and a couple good stabs to the hand, and i was able to remove the CV with picks My concern now is that the cap is easy to move now. Is that normal? Will the hydraulic pressure push it snug against the ring? I think i may use JB weld for piece of mind. Very soon ill have the this mod and the line done
Pretty sure the plastic checkvalve removed doesn't provide any support from beneath...if you press the cap back into place, and then put the c clip back in, it should feel pretty sturdy...then, hydraulic pressure from behind once it's on and bled...you're good.
I finally got this done! Unfortunately the clutch line was too rusted to remove without breaking something, so i just left the stock line. For the CV delete i am speechless! I can't believe how amazing the difference is. Taking off is so much smoother and 1 to 2nd isn't a nightmare anymore. Before the clutch would almost push back like it was spring loaded or something, and now it is just SMOOTH. I am very impressed with this mod Thank you to everyone who talked me into doing this.
could this valve explain why my clutch pedal "goes down" while trying to do a hard launch?
define "goes down": I rev up to 5k and release the clutch... but all that happens is I can literally see the clutch pedal trying to reengage itself...
The purpose of the check valve is to limit the speed at which the built up hydraulic pressure floods the cylinder and thus pushes the piston which pushes the throw out bearing release arm. It will do it at a slower linear pace thus why the only explanation is that the clutch will just feel...off.
if I understand what you're trying to explain correctly it sounds like you're almost sidestepping the clutch, hence then yes this would cause it. I'd recommend you remove it immediately lol.
For what it's worth, I have done my zip tie mod and every bushing possible and the shifting in my car almost feels gated. Anyone local (central ct) is more than welcome to feel it for themselves. It's glorious.
The purpose of the check valve is to limit the speed at which the built up hydraulic pressure floods the cylinder and thus pushes the piston which pushes the throw out bearing release arm. It will do it at a slower linear pace thus why the only explanation is that the clutch will just feel...off.
if I understand what you're trying to explain correctly it sounds like you're almost sidestepping the clutch, hence then yes this would cause it. I'd recommend you remove it immediately lol.
For what it's worth, I have done my zip tie mod and every bushing possible and the shifting in my car almost feels gated. Anyone local (central ct) is more than welcome to feel it for themselves. It's glorious.
Forgive me, I am not sure what your zip tie mod is but I have done every bushing, short shift kit and the check valve delete and I love the way it feels. The clutch feels better, especially shifting from first to second, and the feel of the shifter feels so crisp.
And has anyone done the shifter base bushings? I've only done the cable bushings in the engine bay.
Would love to do the whole k shifter assembly, but damn it's hard to justify the cost when mine already feels so good for a 4 door sedan.
There was one on the black market for something ridiculous like $325….I fought so hard to not buy it :why me:. I want it soooooo bad. And you HAVE to do the shifter base bushings. They make more of a substantial difference than the shifter cable bushings themselves imo.
The shift cables I'm zip tieing out of the way to a nearby piece of engine harness. I'll try and get you a photo.
Originally Posted by crbnfbr
I've done the base bushing and under the hood simultaneously. So, I can't say if the base bushings are worth it or not
Originally Posted by crbnfbr
Forgive me, I am not sure what your zip tie mod is but I have done every bushing, short shift kit and the check valve delete and I love the way it feels. The clutch feels better, especially shifting from first to second, and the feel of the shifter feels so crisp.
Hugely worth it. The base bushings are what give the box a "solid" feeling. When you shift and if feels like you clicked it into place at the end of the throw rather than moved the lever where its supposed to go, thats from the base bushings. The cable bushings give it a sharper side to side, and forward and aft feeling.
As for my zip tie mod, you're basically taking slack off the cables which at the shift box translates to the shifter having less slop. I'll try and take a video and post it in here to show you the before/after. Some people don't care, some people love it. Mine feels/acts somewhat like a gated shifter now with solid bushings, and the cables tied.
Oh they're metal. How much do vibrations in the shifter increase by?
I honestly can't really remember what it was like before I put the bushings in, but it doesn't vibrate badly or anything. That's even with my Tein coilovers that
have about 90k miles on them and need the shocks replaced.
Oh they're metal. How much do vibrations in the shifter increase by?
Originally Posted by FamilyGuy
Yea if you could snap a pic where you are zip tying things that would be awesome.
And can someone tell me which base bushings you guys are using? P/N and where did you buy? Thx!
Any listing on eBay for base bushings for an RSX or 1st gen TSX will work just fine. There's not a concern about tolerance as there is with the cable bushings since all they're doing is holding the base down.
As for the vibrations, if you have 75a motor mounts then the vibrations shouldn't matter lol. There isn't any noticable vibrations, or any negative side effects to this mod. As for the zip tie I'll take a photo when I go out on a delivery shortly. The base bushings are highly recommended, and the zip tie just really gets rid of the shifter slop.
And finally, here is a video I shot before I replaced my base bushings. I don't have a video afterwards, but one is not necessary. After you install the base bushings there is ZERO box movement. I'm not overly forceful with the shifter in the video. It actually moves that much, side to side and Forward/aft play.
I wish I would've known I could have gotten $10 base bushing off ebay instead of paying $30 for the Corsport's. I'm overall satisfied with how my shifter feels now, but I'll still give the zip-tie mod a try. I'll try anything once.
04-11-2015, 11:14 AM
here is a link to the install of the SS line and review : https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...n-pics-750833/
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