DIY - Modifying Front Side Marker Lights (3G Garage Ref#G-064)
05-05-2008, 05:27 PM
#121
Originally Posted by rockyfeller
The light output is just like before. maybe not as bright as jptl's but about the same intensity as the original hi-flux LEDs. Now there are 3 LEDs in there instead of 2. Similar to the rear sidemarkers but the diffusors in the lens of the sidemarkers and the flathead LEDs prevent hotspots.
I am happy to have finally found the definitive efficient solution to this.......all under $10!
I am happy to have finally found the definitive efficient solution to this.......all under $10!
$25 for the ones i used is more $$ but these things are sweet nice and bright
here's the link for what i did https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176820
05-06-2008, 09:15 AM
#122
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Originally Posted by jptl04
it's only a fuse you burnt out. check under the hood fuse box. i dont know how you butchered them. this way of modding the side marker is way easier than the original way. i've done a couple of these and all was fine.
anyone else done the mod and had problems?
anyone else done the mod and had problems?
JPtl04, I accidentally clipped off the (+) and (-) connectors on the actual board of the side-marker. Do you know where I can find wire that will transmit the correct amount of voltage to the car's connector without frying my fuse again? I tried home depot, but the wire I got was too thick to fit into the socket of the connector, and it didn't seem to transmit the the power between the unit and the new leds.
05-06-2008, 02:30 PM
#123
Originally Posted by CrazyFresh
Lol, lets just say I'm not the most handy person in the world, esp when it comes to cars. Fortunately, Jptl04, you were right. I actually fixed this myself b4 I read this post, but it was the fuse, so now all the lights are back on.
JPtl04, I accidentally clipped off the (+) and (-) connectors on the actual board of the side-marker. Do you know where I can find wire that will transmit the correct amount of voltage to the car's connector without frying my fuse again? I tried home depot, but the wire I got was too thick to fit into the socket of the connector, and it didn't seem to transmit the the power between the unit and the new leds.
JPtl04, I accidentally clipped off the (+) and (-) connectors on the actual board of the side-marker. Do you know where I can find wire that will transmit the correct amount of voltage to the car's connector without frying my fuse again? I tried home depot, but the wire I got was too thick to fit into the socket of the connector, and it didn't seem to transmit the the power between the unit and the new leds.
05-07-2008, 09:34 AM
#124
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Originally Posted by jptl04
any solid 22 gauge wire would work. radio shack should have it. i know what you did. you made contact with both + and - thats why it blew the fuse.
04-26-2009, 09:50 PM
#126
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argh... my white led's just blew out on me =(
well I am pissed bc its the second one that burnt out.
I had an extra board and removed the resistor and measured it at 380ohms. The total resistance measured was 130 ohms.
3 resistors wired in parallel gives total of 130ohms if you calculate it.
The black thing is a diode I believe its a 1N46 according to the markings ( yellow and blue). The marking on the back says D3. The LED's have D1 and D2 marking and are wired in series. So the schematic looks something like this:
ground -- diode (1N46) ---130ohm (3x380ohm in parallel)---LED1 --- LED2 ---- +
According to this led calculator (http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz)
13.5 source voltage
3.2 forward voltage
20 mA forward current
2 LED in series
gives 380ohm which is a lot more than 130ohm! No wonder these things are burning out!
I'm not a ee or anything, i just know some bits and things about electronics... but I'm so pissed. I think i'll just buy some strips of LEDs and call it a day. I hope this info helps someone.
well I am pissed bc its the second one that burnt out.
I had an extra board and removed the resistor and measured it at 380ohms. The total resistance measured was 130 ohms.
3 resistors wired in parallel gives total of 130ohms if you calculate it.
The black thing is a diode I believe its a 1N46 according to the markings ( yellow and blue). The marking on the back says D3. The LED's have D1 and D2 marking and are wired in series. So the schematic looks something like this:
ground -- diode (1N46) ---130ohm (3x380ohm in parallel)---LED1 --- LED2 ---- +
According to this led calculator (http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz)
13.5 source voltage
3.2 forward voltage
20 mA forward current
2 LED in series
gives 380ohm which is a lot more than 130ohm! No wonder these things are burning out!
I'm not a ee or anything, i just know some bits and things about electronics... but I'm so pissed. I think i'll just buy some strips of LEDs and call it a day. I hope this info helps someone.
04-26-2009, 10:08 PM
#127
argh... my white led's just blew out on me =(
well I am pissed bc its the second one that burnt out.
I had an extra board and removed the resistor and measured it at 380ohms. The total resistance measured was 130 ohms.
3 resistors wired in parallel gives total of 130ohms if you calculate it.
The black thing is a diode I believe its a 1N46 according to the markings ( yellow and blue). The marking on the back says D3. The LED's have D1 and D2 marking and are wired in series. So the schematic looks something like this:
ground -- diode (1N46) ---130ohm (3x380ohm in parallel)---LED1 --- LED2 ---- +
According to this led calculator (http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz)
13.5 source voltage
3.2 forward voltage
20 mA forward current
2 LED in series
gives 380ohm which is a lot more than 130ohm! No wonder these things are burning out!
I'm not a ee or anything, i just know some bits and things about electronics... but I'm so pissed. I think i'll just buy some strips of LEDs and call it a day. I hope this info helps someone.
well I am pissed bc its the second one that burnt out.
I had an extra board and removed the resistor and measured it at 380ohms. The total resistance measured was 130 ohms.
3 resistors wired in parallel gives total of 130ohms if you calculate it.
The black thing is a diode I believe its a 1N46 according to the markings ( yellow and blue). The marking on the back says D3. The LED's have D1 and D2 marking and are wired in series. So the schematic looks something like this:
ground -- diode (1N46) ---130ohm (3x380ohm in parallel)---LED1 --- LED2 ---- +
According to this led calculator (http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz)
13.5 source voltage
3.2 forward voltage
20 mA forward current
2 LED in series
gives 380ohm which is a lot more than 130ohm! No wonder these things are burning out!
I'm not a ee or anything, i just know some bits and things about electronics... but I'm so pissed. I think i'll just buy some strips of LEDs and call it a day. I hope this info helps someone.
04-27-2009, 05:44 AM
#128
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I saw that post. I decided its not worth trying to "fix" the oem circuit anymore. Too much of a hassle to solder and desolder.
I looked around oznium site and i've ordered these:
http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips
From my measurements the 2.4inch with 6 led's should be a very close fit and at a much cheaper price than the other 6 led module which needs a dremel!
I'll be upgrading my parking lights, trunk, license plate lights also.
Damm I hate this site =p bad for my wallet.
But I'll keep you guys updated
I looked around oznium site and i've ordered these:
http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips
From my measurements the 2.4inch with 6 led's should be a very close fit and at a much cheaper price than the other 6 led module which needs a dremel!
I'll be upgrading my parking lights, trunk, license plate lights also.
Damm I hate this site =p bad for my wallet.
But I'll keep you guys updated
05-04-2009, 01:03 PM
#130
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UPDATE:
The flexible 6 LED 2.4in from oznium (http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips) fit PERFECTLY inside the casing.
Removed the old board/ led's and just glued some cardboard on the side to make it little thicker. Solder the wires to the pin and it's ready to go. I also have the side markers blinking and it works great.
These LED's are bright and super cheap.
Now I won't have to worry about soldering LED's or worrying they gonna burn out on me!
The flexible 6 LED 2.4in from oznium (http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips) fit PERFECTLY inside the casing.
Removed the old board/ led's and just glued some cardboard on the side to make it little thicker. Solder the wires to the pin and it's ready to go. I also have the side markers blinking and it works great.
These LED's are bright and super cheap.
Now I won't have to worry about soldering LED's or worrying they gonna burn out on me!
12-26-2012, 12:49 AM
#134
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i DONT GET IT~! howcome we cant just put in some correct value resistors with some superflux white LEDs? superflux leds are perfectly fine able to run off the battery's 14v. I have 50 superflux white leds in my dome lights that have worked never a issue for a long time now. For 1 LED, it'd be about 560 ohms and for 2 in a series, it'd about 320 ohms if i remember correctly....so why do people's leds keep burning out? I have quite a few superflux leds in my garage but all these horror stories are making me confused!
01-10-2013, 04:21 AM
#135
04 TL 6MT NAVI ABP/Q
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So FYI, I must have had the luck of the Irish because my LEDs held up for about 4 years after doing this mod. But like others on here, they eventually burned out.
I came back to this thread and saw the mention of JPTL04's method and decided to give that a shot.
It was a bit of a PITA to get the wires lined up right and soldered on with no PCB in there anymore, but I pretty much followed his instructions with some minor changes and it worked great.
Head over here to see the new method:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636010
If I could edit the first post still, I would stick a short disclaimer at the top redirecting people to his.
I came back to this thread and saw the mention of JPTL04's method and decided to give that a shot.
It was a bit of a PITA to get the wires lined up right and soldered on with no PCB in there anymore, but I pretty much followed his instructions with some minor changes and it worked great.
Head over here to see the new method:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636010
If I could edit the first post still, I would stick a short disclaimer at the top redirecting people to his.
03-23-2017, 12:16 AM
#137
03-23-2017, 08:01 AM
#138
Thank you sir . I tried to zoom in to see the resistor colors coding but I couldn't see it . Is that ok if you can read for me ?
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