mattpete

iTrader: (4)

wanting to do this but don't have a garage and I live in northeast - is it worth tackling this in 20-30 degree weather or should I wait till spring? I don't want to break anything....

also just to confirm 07-08 base and 07-08 type s tranny are the same right?

Thanks guys!

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Wait til spring.

Timthetoolman

It would be interesting to ask your shop how they know when the switches are bad. Some of the internal problems that they see are likely caused by old switches.

Scottwax

That's what I asked him and that's when he said it certainly wouldn't hurt. Just said he'd never seen any so bad that he felt it would cause a failure. But of course, once he sees the car, usually the problems are so serious it needs a rebuild and its hard to pinpoint the cause because its beyond the point of a test drive like mine was.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Just finished doing this today for the second time on my 08 base. The last time I did it was 2011 approx 45k miles (car is at 85k now).

In my opinion the sensor located underneath the throttle body and transmission mount is the most pain in the ass one to get to. It's funny because it's the easiest one to visually see. I have a cold air intake so I did not need to remove it, however getting a 7/8 socket to fully seat on the sensor to remove it was a pain because there is a linkage cable in the way.

Removing the sensor was not so difficult however trying to screw the new sensor back in was the pain in the ass part. Took quite some time and was finally able to get the threads started.

I don't recall having such a hard time with that sensor when I did this 3 years ago but i sure as hell did this time.

giuseppe

I had rough downshifting since winter. I changed out all 3 sensors and the tranny now shifts like a dream. Many thanks to JDM RICe and Ravi NJCLs. Highly recommended DIY maintenance.

Cheers

FZ427

So Honda upgraded the switches to make the shifting smother ?

dezymond

Had my car in for an oil change at the dealer today so I decided to ask a buddy how much for parts. For the 6 total parts needed for this, looking at $195 for parts ($245 without the discount) + $80 for labor, and that's with the "former employee" discount I get.

I know I can get the parts cheaper elsewhere and for $80 for the job to be done I don't think that's a bad price to pay at all. Yes I checked the DIY out and thought about doing it myself, but I neither have the time or tools to get it done either.

So where's everybody getting their parts from?

raginraj11

I just bought all those parts for $129 shipped from acurapartsforess.com

Brettka7

Thanks for this! did my auto 07 S last week. Manual shifting used to bw worthless. now it's snappy.

zubi23

my car, 08 type S AT, has 105k miles right now. I recently did the timing belt package. I haven't had any tranny issues yet. I replaced the fluid with a 3 x 3 flush like 25k miles ago.

Should I still put in new switches? I am thinking of getting a 1 x 3 flush. Should I put in the switches and then get the flush or should I do the flush, or should i put the switches in, wait a while and then do the flush? I haven't noticed anything with my tranny so idk if this is necessary. When I went to this acura tech, he said the switches were mainly if you had a transmission issues with less than 10k miles, and in the manual theres this little paragraph of replacing the switches, and it probably blew up and everyone decided to do it. I'm not saying you're wrong I'm just saying what the guy told me.

Anyways, should I do this or not, and how many more miles can I do this till. I'm thinking after a little while since I just did so much work to my car....

-Dre

Thanks for the diy

nvasion

how often should the switches be changed?

hadokenuh

Can somebody answer this question please? I am interested to know as well.

The 04-06 trans are prone to failing because of bad switches but what about those 07-08 trans?

hadokenuh

^^ Can anyone help out newbies please?

TL-Syndicate23

iTrader: (2)

Just did my 1x3 and changed all switches and must say she drives like new again! Shifts are barely noticeable under normal conditions. When using the sport shift mode the shifts are a lot smoother and faster than before where the car lagged during each shift prior to the maintenance done. Thanks for the DIY! Helped out a lot.

Mkarl

IMHO, about every 4 to 5 years, they are a mechanical device and age seems to play a factor, but change sooner if you start noticing a longer engagement time from P to D, or you notice 2nd to 3rd shifts extending under light throttle, especially when cold. These are two of the earliest changes that I start to notice with them. But if you have no real mechanical feel for the way a vehicle runs you may not pick up on these over time.

t-rd

Every 50k miles

nvmaddog

Installed these three today, the job was not complicated, but the first two sensors are incredibly difficult to get to. My hands are not the largest in the world, but you have to maneuver them into very tight spaces.

As far as the difference in shifting, it is huge. The upshifts are noticeably smoother, but the downshifts are where I can really tell the difference.

dezymond

I just had these switches replaced this morning and so far from what little driving I've done, the car does shift smoother.

I notice it mostly in manual mode. Downshifts are alot smoother, especially when coming to a stop. Upshifts harder to tell, but I guess they're not as "jerky" as they used to be, so it probably did smooth out.

eastcoastguy

Just did this a couple weeks ago, a little challenging for someone that doesn't work on cars much, but I got it done and felt quite accomplished afterward. Also, had the fluid changed out the day before. The change in fluid, not the pressure switches made a great improvement in shift quality. But both are done so on to other maintenance.

nvasion

anyone got updated pics?

the second switch photos are dead apparntly.

thanks

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Sorry it looks like the pics I stole from the other user is gone. If I do it again this spring I will update the pics unless someone else has them.

Davis36

Thank you for this diy!

nvasion

anyone have photos of where all the sensors go? initial post only shows 2 sensors. correct me if im wrong

thoiboi

bigmutt

thanks a bunch

scdavis0

I had no fun at all trying this today. I cannot for the life of me get the harnesses unclipped from the pressure switches.

I tried the one inside the wheel for a good hour. There is so little space that I can only manage to get one finger on the clip, and then of course there is no way to pull at the same time.

I tried for another good hour at the one under the intake. Again, I can only get one finger on the clip, but no reasonable way to push and pull with one finger. Tried with my left hand to push it out with a flat head while depressing with the finger. The clip is very difficult to depress.

I am surprised a how much easy everyone else is saying it is. I have an '08.

scdavis0

I made another run at this today, this time with success.

Here are my tips:

1. Sensor behind the wheel

I ended up buying some long needle nose pliers to get the harness un-clipped and out. I couldn't manage to do it without them. For me, getting that harness out was 90% of the work.

2. Sensor under the intake

This one was a total pain in the butt for me all the way around. I was eventually able to get the harness un-clipped with just my hand, but it was far from easy. There is a cable that runs right in front of the switch that I was constantly battling with. It was also hard to get the socket and wrench in there to get it unscrewed, and equally hard to get the new sensor in there.

3. Sensor in the back

This was pretty easy once you took out the 6x 12mm nuts + 3x 10mm nuts to remove the strut bar. Easy access to un-clip and remove the sensor and reinstall.

nvasion

Scdavis0 any pics before i tackle this?

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

I looked for more photos for you all but could not find any. Unfortunately for everyone my car is running great and I am not planning on swapping these out again if it continues to shift well.

I think I replaced them at a little over 100K and I'm not at 206K and it still shifts very clean. I was planning on changing them again this spring but I may push it off. I hate messing with an Acura transmission if I don't have to. All I've been doing is a 1x3 every other oil change (about 15000 miles). And I use the standard DW1 fluid. I know a lot of you love Redline but I stuck with the Acura fluid and I didn't regret it.

My goal is to get 300K out of the car and then plan for more.

Weezy2390

Can someone tell me all the parts number for this job

Weewahz

All of the part numbers are listed in the very first post on this thread.

Weezy2390

Yeah i no that but i read after someone said it was different part number jus wanna double check before i buy

Weewahz

Oh, I get it...I've only just started researching this stuff since I just got my '08 TL a couple of weeks ago. From what I've read, I think those part numbers are the correct/new ones (28600-RKE-004 & 28610-RKE-004), and I did read that the part numbers were different in the past. Maybe another user can confirm as well.

webbch

here is how I tested the switches on my 03 Odyssey, which I believe has very similar, if not the same, pressure switches. The general idea is to see the pressure required to open and close the switch. However, unless you have the open/close specs to compare against, all you can do is look at overall behavior (how much hysteresis, quirky switch behavior, etc)

Testing is useful for identifying whether or not they were actually problematic, but, especially if you're paying for labor, might as well replace them once you get far enough along to test them. I'm not aware of an in-vehicle test that would point to a degraded (as opposed to a failed) pressure switch. The testing I did on them suggested their switching behavior does indeed degrade over time and confirmed the idea that they're definitely maintenance items.

dsquire

I just replaced the pressure switches on my '07 TL-S last weekend. Here are the parts required for the job.

28600-RKE-004 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE $40.74 2

28610-RKE-004 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE $39.24 1

90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) $2.15 3

Recommend this be done at regular 50K mile intervals. Immediate improvement in shift quality. 150K miles on the car and it shifts better than new.

nvasion

What would happen if i put sensor in wrong hole? I think there was an up change and color of switch changed. My old sensors were two black one white. My new ones were two white one black. I ordered the correct part numbers. They all plugged in and i dont have a flashing D or anything

nvasion

Would it not shift correctly if i installed wrong switch in the wrong spot? Cuz mine shifts fine

mohsinkhan35

I have ordered these switches and I will be changing them soon. I will try to take some pictures of the location to provide some guidance. This DIY guide will be a lot of help.

I changed shift position sensor today so I had a close look at the car from pretty much all angles.