C-026: DIY Changing ATF (with Pics)
04-26-2011, 03:51 PM
#121
04-26-2011, 06:17 PM
#122
I did my a couple of weeks ago too and also filled it through the dip stick. I used the smaller tube that went inside the dip stick hole. I was worry about the seal when using the larger tube going on the outside. I tried to un screw the fill bolt, but it was on there good and did want to buy a breaker bar.
I only got out 2.5 quarts, probably due to me not warning up the car first. I still have 2x3 left and pressure switches to replace.
Thanks for a great DIY.
I only got out 2.5 quarts, probably due to me not warning up the car first. I still have 2x3 left and pressure switches to replace.
Thanks for a great DIY.
04-28-2011, 09:13 AM
#123
The Track Terror
I also had 4 quarts drain out the 2 times I drained. I put in 5 Redline Racing Fluid and 3 Redline Lightwieght Racing Fluid...shifts seem smoother and shorter...
I'm going to do another D&R at the next oil change with 3 Racing and 1 Lightweight...
I'm going to do another D&R at the next oil change with 3 Racing and 1 Lightweight...
05-01-2011, 09:56 AM
#124
Instructor
I have a fluid extractor (not griots though) and I use all the time. It works for all kinds of fluids. I use it on my boat, motorcycle, truck and my TL. It works great and I find it far simpler and cleaner than having to jack the vehicle, crawl on the floor and mess with drain plugs.
Last night I did the first round of the 3x3 transmission flush dance. I simply stuck the nylon hose down the dipstick tube and extracted 3.1 liters of fluid. It couldn't have been easier and only took 5 minutes. I didn't consider using the left or right side jacking method to tilt the vehicle like others here have described. If I had, then maybe I could have gotten even more fluid out.
The only down side that I see to using the fluid extractor for the 3x3 is, since you aren't removing the trans. drain plug you aren't getting the chance to clean and inspect the magnet. So, for at least one of the drain&refills I will have to jack the front end, crawl around on the floor and mess with the drain plug.
In addition to the trans. fluid, the extractor also worked great for TL's brake fluid change. Both for getting the initial fluid out of the reservoir and for attaching to the bleeder value and pulling new fluid through the lines. No air, whatsoever, gets into the lines either.
It worked great when changed the power steering fluid on the TL.
Earlier this week I did an engine oil change on the TL. I got 4.1 liters out just by sticking the nylon hose down the dipstick tube and suctioning it out (the other 0.2 liters was in the filter). It took only 5 minutes and best of all; No jacking was required.
Anyway, I just thought that I would add at least one positive vote for the fluid extractor, since when LivingLarge first posed the question earlier in this thread all he seemed to get was negative responses.
Cheers and thanks all you AZ folks for the great info you provide.
Last night I did the first round of the 3x3 transmission flush dance. I simply stuck the nylon hose down the dipstick tube and extracted 3.1 liters of fluid. It couldn't have been easier and only took 5 minutes. I didn't consider using the left or right side jacking method to tilt the vehicle like others here have described. If I had, then maybe I could have gotten even more fluid out.
The only down side that I see to using the fluid extractor for the 3x3 is, since you aren't removing the trans. drain plug you aren't getting the chance to clean and inspect the magnet. So, for at least one of the drain&refills I will have to jack the front end, crawl around on the floor and mess with the drain plug.
In addition to the trans. fluid, the extractor also worked great for TL's brake fluid change. Both for getting the initial fluid out of the reservoir and for attaching to the bleeder value and pulling new fluid through the lines. No air, whatsoever, gets into the lines either.
It worked great when changed the power steering fluid on the TL.
Earlier this week I did an engine oil change on the TL. I got 4.1 liters out just by sticking the nylon hose down the dipstick tube and suctioning it out (the other 0.2 liters was in the filter). It took only 5 minutes and best of all; No jacking was required.
Anyway, I just thought that I would add at least one positive vote for the fluid extractor, since when LivingLarge first posed the question earlier in this thread all he seemed to get was negative responses.
Cheers and thanks all you AZ folks for the great info you provide.
Also, this was the first tranny fluid change on my 07 type S with 38k miles and there was a LOT of shavings on the drain plug so I'm glad I took it off.
So at least in my case, extracting from the dipstick only got about 2 liters out while draining from the drain plug and jacking up the driver's side of the car resulted in a total of about 4 liters (about 4.2 qts) being drained.
I put the new DW-1 Honda/Acura fluid in it, BTW, and will probably do this again next weekend (for a 2x4 fluid change).
Also, I refilled thru the fill hole, not the dipstick tube. It was real easy for me to get the drain hole plug out (I have long socket extensions) so I went that route.
Thanks to the OP for the pics. They were very helpful.
Al
05-05-2011, 02:12 PM
#125
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Easily saved me hundreds!
Best DIY to date! 
I was slipping going into second at WOT- happened twice. Going into reverse I had to wait a few seconds before engaging... Wooops! The ATF Hasn't been changed since 83,000 miles (and it now has 120,000+!)
After I searched for hours for coupons and came up with a $159 flush and fill from the stealership.
Called and I found out they only drain 3 quarts and refill 3 of the new Honda ATF...
I said "Hey the manual calls for 3X drain and fill- can you do that?" and was quoted "That's gonna be 1.5 hours labor, plus cost of ATF- so you're looking at OVER $300" (to do it right!)
After DAYS, and DAZE, of looking throughout this forum, Odyssey Forum, Honda Tech, etc... I eventually came up with this formula -
Drain 3 quarts -I measured it!
Fill at dip stick hole -didn't have to move ANYTHING- with Valvoline MAX-LIFE (Flame-suit ON!)
Drive a few blocks, get on freeway, up to 80mph, get off two exits later.
Return to garage, cool down for 20 minutes
REPEAT PROCESS- Times TWO!
Final step- add 4-5 oz of LUBE-GUARD WITHOUT stop leak!
The result= 1st batch, ATF Black as coal! Very sludgy drain plug!
2nd batch, Cherry Coke appearance! Not much on drain plug!
3rd batch, looks darker than normal ATF, but clear!
Wife drove it and came back- Wow! Runs much better!
I drove it to work and was amazed! It used to shift at 52mph to go into overdrive (5th), it now does it at 48mph! Smooth!
TOTAL COST= Funnel, small hose, 9 qrts of MAXLIFE, 10oz. of LubeGuard... UNDER $70!!!
Plus- The knowledge of having it done the correct way, and the fact of saving
HUNDREDS should make this a priority for all new(Used TL) owners!
Took about 3 hours total, I also did the Coolant flush (3 times also) at the same time ($30- everything for under $100!) My car loves me again!
Of course you SHOULD spend the $8.00+/per quart the Honda Stealership will charge you for their "special ATF"... I opted for the Max-life after researching, seemed to be fine with the lubeguard added for most Honda mechanics I heard from... Peace!
I was slipping going into second at WOT- happened twice. Going into reverse I had to wait a few seconds before engaging... Wooops! The ATF Hasn't been changed since 83,000 miles (and it now has 120,000+!)
After I searched for hours for coupons and came up with a $159 flush and fill from the stealership.
Called and I found out they only drain 3 quarts and refill 3 of the new Honda ATF...
I said "Hey the manual calls for 3X drain and fill- can you do that?" and was quoted "That's gonna be 1.5 hours labor, plus cost of ATF- so you're looking at OVER $300" (to do it right!)
After DAYS, and DAZE, of looking throughout this forum, Odyssey Forum, Honda Tech, etc... I eventually came up with this formula -
Drain 3 quarts -I measured it!
Fill at dip stick hole -didn't have to move ANYTHING- with Valvoline MAX-LIFE (Flame-suit ON!)
Drive a few blocks, get on freeway, up to 80mph, get off two exits later.
Return to garage, cool down for 20 minutes
REPEAT PROCESS- Times TWO!
Final step- add 4-5 oz of LUBE-GUARD WITHOUT stop leak!
The result= 1st batch, ATF Black as coal! Very sludgy drain plug!
2nd batch, Cherry Coke appearance! Not much on drain plug!
3rd batch, looks darker than normal ATF, but clear!
Wife drove it and came back- Wow! Runs much better!
I drove it to work and was amazed! It used to shift at 52mph to go into overdrive (5th), it now does it at 48mph! Smooth!
TOTAL COST= Funnel, small hose, 9 qrts of MAXLIFE, 10oz. of LubeGuard... UNDER $70!!!
Plus- The knowledge of having it done the correct way, and the fact of saving
HUNDREDS should make this a priority for all new(Used TL) owners! Took about 3 hours total, I also did the Coolant flush (3 times also) at the same time ($30- everything for under $100!) My car loves me again!
Of course you SHOULD spend the $8.00+/per quart the Honda Stealership will charge you for their "special ATF"... I opted for the Max-life after researching, seemed to be fine with the lubeguard added for most Honda mechanics I heard from... Peace!
06-26-2011, 09:45 AM
#128
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Yes, check out this video by our very own Azine member:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71w0QE_X0Wk
If you have an 04-06, the steps are the exact same except you use a different fill bolt.
....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71w0QE_X0Wk
If you have an 04-06, the steps are the exact same except you use a different fill bolt.
....
Added Video.
06-26-2011, 12:38 PM
#129
3 hour job
Just did the 3x3 with the Redline D4.
As someone else stated, you'll only notice a difference after the 2nd drain. Shorter and smoother shifts. I did my 3 and 4 sensors 2 weeks ago, so now the car is much smoother.
The ATF bolt on top was on tight. I used my floor jack's handle to break it (and i mean really break it). I noticed that even in between the flushes - the bolt seems to be tight again. So just use force.
All in all - it was worth the work. Now i can rest assure that my tranny has new and good blood powering it.
Drain bolt did have a lot of shavings on it. Which is a surprised since I had a tranny flush as part of the 60K about 14K ago. Anyhow, good luck and you guys should do it. Not sure how the new DW1 compares to D4. but, D4 has been around for a long time and it's tried and true.
As someone else stated, you'll only notice a difference after the 2nd drain. Shorter and smoother shifts. I did my 3 and 4 sensors 2 weeks ago, so now the car is much smoother.
The ATF bolt on top was on tight. I used my floor jack's handle to break it (and i mean really break it). I noticed that even in between the flushes - the bolt seems to be tight again. So just use force.
All in all - it was worth the work. Now i can rest assure that my tranny has new and good blood powering it.
Drain bolt did have a lot of shavings on it. Which is a surprised since I had a tranny flush as part of the 60K about 14K ago. Anyhow, good luck and you guys should do it. Not sure how the new DW1 compares to D4. but, D4 has been around for a long time and it's tried and true.
06-26-2011, 04:44 PM
#130
After driving it into the city - I also noticed what IHC said about the "double bump" when you put it into D. That is also now gone and seems to be quicker shifting into 1st.
Observed that it's not as rough putting it into Reverse from Park or Drive.
And the last big is that when I put my hand next to the gear labels (on the left of the shift knob) I can no longer feel that it's warm. With the old Z1 fluid I would notice that it gets warm after about 30-45 minutes of highway driving. So it seems like the D4 is keeping the tranny nice and cool.
Pretty amazed so far. Wish that I had the time to do it sooner. A lot of work to do it right though. It is not a 15min job. More like 2-3 hours.
Observed that it's not as rough putting it into Reverse from Park or Drive.
And the last big is that when I put my hand next to the gear labels (on the left of the shift knob) I can no longer feel that it's warm. With the old Z1 fluid I would notice that it gets warm after about 30-45 minutes of highway driving. So it seems like the D4 is keeping the tranny nice and cool.
Pretty amazed so far. Wish that I had the time to do it sooner. A lot of work to do it right though. It is not a 15min job. More like 2-3 hours.
07-10-2011, 08:35 PM
#131
I just did this using the pictures as a reference. Drained a little under 3 qts.
As a side note, you do not have to remove the fuse box if you can fit your hand and touch the bolt.
and watch out for the washer, it can easily be lost when taking off the bolt.
As a side note, you do not have to remove the fuse box if you can fit your hand and touch the bolt.
and watch out for the washer, it can easily be lost when taking off the bolt.
08-16-2011, 10:05 PM
#132
Cannot find fill bolt for the life of me... Here are some pictures...
Can someone help me find where the bolt is at? the Fill bolt for the ATF. My car is a 2006 Acura TL. Automatic.
Thanks
Can someone help me find where the bolt is at? the Fill bolt for the ATF. My car is a 2006 Acura TL. Automatic.
Thanks
08-16-2011, 10:56 PM
#133
If you're looking at the fuse box from the front. It's at about 11 o'clock. Straight down. Page 14-204 in the Manual.
It's the top left corner of the fuse box looking from the front. You'll see it. Thick bolt.
08-16-2011, 11:00 PM
#134
This should help - 
From this https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=556044&page=2
PM if you're still having trouble.
Nguoi viet phai kg?
From this https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=556044&page=2
PM if you're still having trouble.
Nguoi viet phai kg?
Last edited by EagleEye; 08-16-2011 at 11:03 PM.
08-17-2011, 12:05 AM
#135
takin care of Business in
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eagleeye how much time did you wait between the drain and refills ? miles interval ?
08-17-2011, 06:49 AM
#138
Honestly though, thinking about it now. I would have driven it for at lest 20 minutes to get it nice and hot - maybe would mix better. Anyhow, started feeling diff after 2nd flush.
08-17-2011, 07:06 AM
#139
Advanced
Dipstick fill?
You could always fill through the dipstick tube. I have a stock 06 TL Auto Navi, and filled this way and found it MUCH easier. (see my post an pics on page 3 of this topic)
08-17-2011, 09:11 AM
#140
That was what I thought. It was so different from all the pictures that everyone was putting on as well as the service manual. I tried getting that bolt OFF but it would not even turn... I will probably just refill through dipstick...
Anywho, so if I were to remove that small bolt, there should be a 17mm bolt underneath it right? Thank you so much for everyone's fast input.
Eagleeye, I am -_-
Anywho, so if I were to remove that small bolt, there should be a 17mm bolt underneath it right? Thank you so much for everyone's fast input.
Eagleeye, I am -_-
08-17-2011, 09:17 AM
#141
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^^^ dude you need a breaker bar...the shit gets locked by pressure or some....
I have a low profile hydraulic jack and I use that bar as a breaker bar....trying to break it loose with a small ratchet wont work the trick
I have a low profile hydraulic jack and I use that bar as a breaker bar....trying to break it loose with a small ratchet wont work the trick
08-17-2011, 09:19 AM
#142
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08-17-2011, 09:44 AM
#143
Thanks, no wonder, I was like ' No way this 12mm bolt is on this tight', must be over 50 ft-lbs or more!!!!! lol...
08-17-2011, 10:20 AM
#144
08-17-2011, 01:27 PM
#145
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God bless the person who made breaker bars LOL
08-31-2011, 06:51 PM
#148
I'm Craig
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No luck here. Tried Just about everything and it wouldn't budge. Even had my dad trying to torque it loose and couldn't. He going to have his friend (a mechanic) break it loose at his shop. Seriously- thing wouldn't budge. Can't wait to hear the "pop" when that thing explodes loose.
08-31-2011, 09:55 PM
#149
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what you need is an extension....this is what I do....
stick the right size socket in the extension (12 inch) and fit it in....
then attach the ratchet and make sure its straight up
then slide the ratchet in the breaker bar
put pressure like a mofo till you hear a breaking noise....literally...
the first time i used this method and I head that sound i was like "motherf&^&^ i broke the bolt"....well the bolt was fine, i just broke the bolt open....
stick the right size socket in the extension (12 inch) and fit it in....
then attach the ratchet and make sure its straight up
then slide the ratchet in the breaker bar
put pressure like a mofo till you hear a breaking noise....literally...
the first time i used this method and I head that sound i was like "motherf&^&^ i broke the bolt"....well the bolt was fine, i just broke the bolt open....
08-31-2011, 10:16 PM
#150
I'm Craig
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I'll see what my dad's friend does. Something very heavy duty is going to be needed... The first ratchet+extension I used to try to loosen it broke. The metal literally sheared apart at the bottom of the extension.
I can imagine the sound its going to make. It will be a victorious feeling...spent the better part of an hour trying to loosen it. Stopped after I realized I was getting nothing done.
I can imagine the sound its going to make. It will be a victorious feeling...spent the better part of an hour trying to loosen it. Stopped after I realized I was getting nothing done.
09-01-2011, 10:46 AM
#151
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btw its always a good thing to loosen the bolt before you start the process....
I remember this one time when i drained the fluid and the fill bolt just wudnt open....i cudnt drive for a day LMAO.....
I remember this one time when i drained the fluid and the fill bolt just wudnt open....i cudnt drive for a day LMAO.....
09-01-2011, 11:54 AM
#153
Three Wheelin'
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No luck here. Tried Just about everything and it wouldn't budge. Even had my dad trying to torque it loose and couldn't. He going to have his friend (a mechanic) break it loose at his shop. Seriously- thing wouldn't budge. Can't wait to hear the "pop" when that thing explodes loose.
09-01-2011, 03:52 PM
#154
Drain bolt is a piece of cake to loosen. I think it's just the 3/8 male socket.
Do NOT over tighten the ATF bolt when you put it on. Last thing you want to do is crack your tranny :-) (the VERY LAST thing you ever want to do).
I can't believe it's on that tight for you. Sounds almost impossibly tight. I mean mine was tight.. but not that tight.
Do NOT over tighten the ATF bolt when you put it on. Last thing you want to do is crack your tranny :-) (the VERY LAST thing you ever want to do).
I can't believe it's on that tight for you. Sounds almost impossibly tight. I mean mine was tight.. but not that tight.
09-01-2011, 03:52 PM
#155
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drain bolt is easy as hell....just tug hard....keep a rubber mallet handy just in case 
09-01-2011, 03:55 PM
#156
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Drain bolt is a piece of cake to loosen. I think it's just the 3/8 male socket.
Do NOT over tighten the ATF bolt when you put it on. Last thing you want to do is crack your tranny :-) (the VERY LAST thing you ever want to do).
I can't believe it's on that tight for you. Sounds almost impossibly tight. I mean mine was tight.. but not that tight.
Do NOT over tighten the ATF bolt when you put it on. Last thing you want to do is crack your tranny :-) (the VERY LAST thing you ever want to do).
I can't believe it's on that tight for you. Sounds almost impossibly tight. I mean mine was tight.. but not that tight.
11-29-2011, 03:08 PM
#159
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^^^ bro great fucking vid....
it is a hell a lot easier with the CAI....u need a CAI
it is a hell a lot easier with the CAI....u need a CAI
12-01-2011, 08:17 AM
#160
FTW
