Blue LED ?s
#1
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Blue LED ?s
One of the two overhead blue LEDs is burnt out I have a couple questions...
First of all I have been to the "definitive LED thread" and they just talk about the bulbs, not how to replace them.
Anyone know how to replace them? It seems to me like the console part covering the lights just somehow snaps out and then back into place, I just don't know how exactly. And also, can I get those blue LEDs at your everyday autoparts store ie: Autozone, NAPA, Oreilly's? or do you HAVE to order them online.
Any help would be great. Thanks
Here is a pic of what I'm talking about
...borrowing it from fluxcapacitor3000
First of all I have been to the "definitive LED thread" and they just talk about the bulbs, not how to replace them.
Anyone know how to replace them? It seems to me like the console part covering the lights just somehow snaps out and then back into place, I just don't know how exactly. And also, can I get those blue LEDs at your everyday autoparts store ie: Autozone, NAPA, Oreilly's? or do you HAVE to order them online.
Any help would be great. Thanks
Here is a pic of what I'm talking about
...borrowing it from fluxcapacitor3000
#2
I tried looking around for the the part, but cannot locate it. Are you still under warranty? If so take it in, Cuz you have to remove the console and then remove the LED. Which I will guarantee you that it cannot be found at any auto parts store. Probably order online or buy through dealer
#5
Too Fast TOO FURIOUS
iTrader: (4)
I think they are part of the assembly of #12 or #8. Don't know.
#12 83253-SEP-A02ZD | LIGHTING ASSY. | ( GQ GUN METALLIC )
OR
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZA | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( MOON LAKE GRAY )
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZB | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | (LIGHT TAN)
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZC | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( LIGHT CREAM IVORY )
#12 and #8 below:
#12 83253-SEP-A02ZD | LIGHTING ASSY. | ( GQ GUN METALLIC )
OR
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZA | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( MOON LAKE GRAY )
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZB | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | (LIGHT TAN)
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZC | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( LIGHT CREAM IVORY )
#12 and #8 below:
Trending Topics
#9
Busting some beats...
Your best bet is if you're still under warranty to take it in. One thing i have noticed with these cars is you don't want to mess with the interior consoles too much, unless you really know what your doing.
#12
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by xoulu
i got dead light bulbs and i took it to the dealer and they wouldn't replace it for me, they said i had to do it myself.....any clues?
but they flat out said no? i imagine if you paid them labor and parts then they would do it... do u ask that or just ask for them to fix if for free under warranty?
#13
Registered User
Originally Posted by enigmaos
I think they are part of the assembly of #12 or #8. Don't know.
#12 83253-SEP-A02ZD | LIGHTING ASSY. | ( GQ GUN METALLIC )
OR
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZA | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( MOON LAKE GRAY )
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZB | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | (LIGHT TAN)
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZC | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( LIGHT CREAM IVORY )
#12 and #8 below:
#12 83253-SEP-A02ZD | LIGHTING ASSY. | ( GQ GUN METALLIC )
OR
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZA | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( MOON LAKE GRAY )
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZB | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | (LIGHT TAN)
#8 39770-SEP-A02ZC | TELEPHONE ASSY., HAND FREE | ( LIGHT CREAM IVORY )
#12 and #8 below:
arrows in blue are those 2 leds
#14
i walked in and said that the bulbs for my heated seats and dash are not working, they took a 30min and said that the bulb was out and i would have to replace them, they said it was not covered under warranty so i been trying to find a diy blue led interior for all the bulb, i seen it before, just can't find it now
#15
Originally Posted by rbf351
it's part #12, and the only way to replace those LED's is buy unsoldering them
arrows in blue are those 2 leds
[img]overhead.JPG[/img]
arrows in blue are those 2 leds
[img]overhead.JPG[/img]
or just buy a new board for $282.xx
Since its not a bulb that can be easily replaced, your best bet is to solder/desolder it and put in a new LED
#16
2004 SSM/EB/5AT/Navi/RSB
As rbf351's photo shows, those two LEDs are surface-mount devices and pretty tricky to replace, if you've never worked with SMDs before. I had wanted to get brighter versions for my car, but bailed out on the idea once I saw they were going to require more effort than I was willing to spend.
Those lights should last the life of the car, so I'd fight the dealer's claim that they're not covered by the warranty. As opposed to the other bulbs in the car's interior, these are not socketed/replaceable as they're never meant to need it. The fact you've got one out is most likely a defect on that board and not a burned out LED.
Those lights should last the life of the car, so I'd fight the dealer's claim that they're not covered by the warranty. As opposed to the other bulbs in the car's interior, these are not socketed/replaceable as they're never meant to need it. The fact you've got one out is most likely a defect on that board and not a burned out LED.
#17
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Soooo basically my choices are...
1) Go to the dealer and get it fixed b/c it SHOULD be under warranty - some defect - LED should last the life of the car
or
2) I'm fked cus there's no way I'ma attempt to try to sauder/unsauder and replace the bulb myself since I'm not mechanic smart lol
???
1) Go to the dealer and get it fixed b/c it SHOULD be under warranty - some defect - LED should last the life of the car
or
2) I'm fked cus there's no way I'ma attempt to try to sauder/unsauder and replace the bulb myself since I'm not mechanic smart lol
???
#19
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
actually i have a friend whos good at wiring and he said he'd be able to help me with the bulb replacement/saudering... i just needa figure out how to take the console part out... any ideas?
#20
Originally Posted by imj0257
actually i have a friend whos good at wiring and he said he'd be able to help me with the bulb replacement/saudering... i just needa figure out how to take the console part out... any ideas?
1) Pemove the moonroof switch (gently pull down on it, then remove the connector)
2) Pull/pry down on the roof console; there appears to be a tab on the back of the roof console, in between the vanity lights at the front center edge, which holds the console to the headliner.
Looking at the photos posted above and the wiring schematic, right text to the two LEDs are two resistors. They are in series with the LEDs. The LED connects straight to the battery and the resistors are grounded. I'm curious to know what the values on the resistors are.
#22
Originally Posted by imj0257
ya and exactly what the LED bulb specs are so I know what to get!
I'd suggest you may just want to replace both of them at the same time. If you can't find the exact same LED, then you'll probably get different brightnesses and that would look weird.
#24
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Ahhh whatever... I set up a service appointment for next week regarding a few things, one of them being these blue LEDs. I told him one was burnt out and should be under my warranty... the guy said he has never heard of anyone getting that fixed under warranty good luck to me then! I also told him about my ~1500 rpm vibration when I'm driving and they will check that out too.
Will keep you updated with what I officially find out!
Will keep you updated with what I officially find out!
#25
King of NYC
iTrader: (6)
Dealer will definitely fix it, don't worry bout it. If he dosen't, bitch him out and go to another one.
My question here is one I have asked before about this: Has anyone attempted to make these LEDs a little bit BRIGHTER? I wouldn't mind them being about 50% brighter. How to do this without messing some resistor or the board up. I guess it would take the proper LED and proper mathmatics to solder in the proper resisitor....Any takers? I know my dumbass will screw this up. Already burned a couple boards elsewhere with my LED shennanigans.
On other cars like BMWs with the orange lights up there, it is more noticable. We have the cool blue so I wish it were more pronounced.
My question here is one I have asked before about this: Has anyone attempted to make these LEDs a little bit BRIGHTER? I wouldn't mind them being about 50% brighter. How to do this without messing some resistor or the board up. I guess it would take the proper LED and proper mathmatics to solder in the proper resisitor....Any takers? I know my dumbass will screw this up. Already burned a couple boards elsewhere with my LED shennanigans.
On other cars like BMWs with the orange lights up there, it is more noticable. We have the cool blue so I wish it were more pronounced.
#26
Originally Posted by rockyfeller
My question here is one I have asked before about this: Has anyone attempted to make these LEDs a little bit BRIGHTER? I wouldn't mind them being about 50% brighter. How to do this without messing some resistor or the board up. I guess it would take the proper LED and proper mathematics to solder in the proper resistor....Any takers? I know my dumbass will screw this up. Already burned a couple boards elsewhere with my LED shenanigans.
Everything revolves around V=I*R (voltage = resistance * current) and R=V/I.
All LEDs have a voltage drop across them; 0.7 to 2.0 volts is typical. If you have an LED and resistor in series wired to a 12V battery, and an LED with a 2V drop, then the voltage across the resistor is 10V.
Since these voltages are "constant" (for the most part), all you can play with is the resistance and current. LEDs get brighter with more current, so you want to find the lowest resistance possible (I = V/R). If you use a 200 ohm resistor, then it allows 10/200 = 0.05A or 50mA of current to flow (now the diode has a slight resistance as well, so you really get a little less than 50mA). If you change this to a 100 ohm resistor, you'll get 100mA instead and the LED will be brighter.
So as the current increases, the brightness increases. This isn't always linear, though. Doubling the current doesn't always double the brightness. There's some point when the vs luminosity vs current curve "flattens out".
What you need to know then is (a) what this curve looks like, and also (b) what is the current rating for the LED. Datasheets often show the continuous and peak currents. The blue LED in the console will be on continuously, so you need to know the continuous value. If you put more current through than this, it won't necessarily blow the LED right away but will shorten its life.
#27
Q('.')=O
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Update: went to dealer and they DID replace it free under warranty. They basically replaced that whole circuitboard which included the LEDS and homelink, so now I have two brand new and BRIGHTER LEDS ... much better. All I had to do was redo my homelink settings, easy. Woot.
#29
Originally Posted by playa4real
sweet deal..all this electric circuit theory gone to waste tho
#30
Originally Posted by xoulu
i got dead light bulbs and i took it to the dealer and they wouldn't replace it for me, they said i had to do it myself.....any clues?
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