Best oil for TL
09-13-2011, 02:06 PM
#81
Team Owner
Again, I believe if you're going to pay the price for a synthetic, go with a grp V ester synthetic which Amsoil does not offer. There are big advantages to an ester which I already mentioned.
09-13-2011, 07:20 PM
#86
Castrol Synthetic
Castrol Edge with Titanium
and K&N filter for the past 4 years.
Considering moving to Royal Purple filter, according to IHC...
09-13-2011, 07:21 PM
#87
Team Owner
mobile 1 full synthetic
http://accuratecars.com/blog/2008/08...a-automobiles/
http://accuratecars.com/blog/2008/08...a-automobiles/
09-13-2011, 07:22 PM
#88
Team Owner
09-13-2011, 07:49 PM
#90
KBPftmfw
FYI, the oil you chose to use (Motorcraft 5w20) is the evil twin of Honda/Acura 5w20. Both are synthetic blends produced by ConocoPhillips and they have very similar characteristics. You are just fine as long as that is the correct viscosity for your vehicle.
I would point out that basing your current choice on your past requirements isn't a good idea. Always use the correct product for each application. What would you have done if your old ride was a Ford F-450 diesel??
I would point out that basing your current choice on your past requirements isn't a good idea. Always use the correct product for each application. What would you have done if your old ride was a Ford F-450 diesel??
Not really. The old 5.0 makes less power than the 3.5, runs out of breath at 4,900rpm, and the load is spread out over 8 cylinders. The 3.5 is harder on the oil.
Of course any modern oil will work fine. The title of the thread is "best oil for TL". I'm assuming "best" is lowest wear and probably something that keeps the engine the cleanest. An ester oil with lots of good additives will do both of these the best. I'm not saying the TL won't go 300,000 miles on a no name 5w-20 but it will be in better shape by the time it gets there with a great oil.
Of course any modern oil will work fine. The title of the thread is "best oil for TL". I'm assuming "best" is lowest wear and probably something that keeps the engine the cleanest. An ester oil with lots of good additives will do both of these the best. I'm not saying the TL won't go 300,000 miles on a no name 5w-20 but it will be in better shape by the time it gets there with a great oil.
09-13-2011, 07:51 PM
#91
Team Owner
Maybe I should have typed my response in red font, lol. The point I was trying to make was exactly what you said in your first sentence, "Of course any modern oil will work fine". Dude got tons of advice on the best oil to use and he went totally against the grain and picked RP out of everything.
So tell me more about this 5.0 since this thread is already a disaster. Any mods? I loved those cars back in the old days.
09-13-2011, 08:23 PM
#92
KBPftmfw
I still have the car but it's sitting in a barn waiting for the day I can swap an 03/04 Terminator drivetrain into it.
I bought it totaled with about 33K miles on it. Vibrant red with a black leather interior. The only downside was the slushbox transmission. BUT, for $5K it was a no brainer. I put $3K into a front clip from a donor car and another $1-2K into miscellaneous like airbags, alternator, air pump, chrome Cobra R wheels, etc. So for $10K I had a 5 year old (at the time) Mustang GT that was bad-ass. I still remember the first day I drove it to high school, the first real nice day my Junior year. Most of all, I just love the fact my dad did the whole project with me and showed me really how to turn a wrench. The car could be driven off of a cliff tomorrow, but I'll always have those great memories of working weeknight evenings, all day Saturdays with my dad fixing the car up.My Senior year I put a Flowmaster American Thunder catback and Mac offroad H-pipe on it. Awesome. There is nothing like a 5.0 with an offroad H-pipe and a Flowmaster catback. Later, I ditched the Cobra R wheels and added Black w/ polished lip FR500s and FRPP lowering springs.
In many ways, I look at my Type-S as a 4 door Mustang GT. I have the power, even better luxuries and great resale.
Last edited by 95oRANGEcRUSH; 09-13-2011 at 08:29 PM.
09-14-2011, 01:16 PM
#93
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
I have no issue believing that. I have over 150K on my TL and the engine is by far the absolute least of my concerns on this car. I'm pretty sure the engine will far outlast everything else on the car. I've only used plain old dino 5W20 oil and it doesn't burn a single drop of oil. My brother's similar age BMW (with a lot less miles) on the other hand...
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justnspace (09-14-2011)
09-14-2011, 09:08 PM
#97
09-14-2011, 09:23 PM
#98
No I am just saying I think the location is terrible and wondered if it's every caused any issues. I mean in the winter in snow it gets packed in the wheels ect. It just seems like it could get messed up quickly.
09-14-2011, 09:24 PM
#99
Team Owner
No problems ever. I run a pretty sticky tire and I'm slightly lowered and I have never had issues with anything hitting the filter.
09-14-2011, 09:59 PM
#101
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
)
09-14-2011, 11:28 PM
#103
Yea most filter on honda's are on the back side toward side towered the firewall in the middle of the engine. But since no one has had any problems I am not to concerned. It is very odd thou now I have to worry about my oil pan hitting and filter ha. No I was only worried about snow the suspension seems to keep anything from hitting it for the most part.
09-15-2011, 01:03 PM
#106
Senior Moderator
I think the RDX's oil filter is in a very good spot. Right next to the oil drain bolt near the front of the vehicle. The TL's isn't bad I still would have preferred where it is on the RDX.
Dad's Accord and my old Prelude they are in horrible spots, in winter months I never change the oil on the prelude, usually take it to my mechanic and give him the 20 bucks to do it for me as it was a PITA in the cold.
Dad's Accord and my old Prelude they are in horrible spots, in winter months I never change the oil on the prelude, usually take it to my mechanic and give him the 20 bucks to do it for me as it was a PITA in the cold.
09-15-2011, 08:13 PM
#110
Team Owner
09-15-2011, 08:50 PM
#111
Racer
Before the crude was used, it was vegetable oil. That's how Castrol got the name ... "Castor Oil". The way crude prices are going up, we might be seeing new veggie-based products soon.
09-15-2011, 09:37 PM
#112
Racer
Hey IHC, I'd just like to say this oil thread hasn't been a "total disaster". Seeing this thread reminded me to get your thoughts on using Seafoam vs an ester oil to clean the engine. Of course, I read that you'd never put Seafoam in your oil. Per your (or was it someone else's?) recommendation in another thread, I'm planning on substituting in a single qt of Redline or Motul with my next oil changes to help clean her out. Probably not much build-up in there, but what the heck. ...so thanks for transferring some of your OCD on me! 
Now if I'm way off base, let me know. Thanks Matt for debunking all the B.S. out here on the internet!
Now if I'm way off base, let me know. Thanks Matt for debunking all the B.S. out here on the internet!
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justnspace (09-15-2011)
09-15-2011, 10:08 PM
#113
Team Owner
Hey IHC, I'd just like to say this oil thread hasn't been a "total disaster". Seeing this thread reminded me to get your thoughts on using Seafoam vs an ester oil to clean the engine. Of course, I read that you'd never put Seafoam in your oil. Per your (or was it someone else's?) recommendation in another thread, I'm planning on substituting in a single qt of Redline or Motul with my next oil changes to help clean her out. Probably not much build-up in there, but what the heck. ...so thanks for transferring some of your OCD on me! Now if I'm way off base, let me know. Thanks Matt for debunking all the B.S. out here on the internet!
Now if I'm way off base, let me know. Thanks Matt for debunking all the B.S. out here on the internet!It was kind of neat to see when I switched from an awesome oil for 75,000 miles (Amsoil ACD) to Redline, the Redline got black very quickly for the first couple changes. Under the valve cover, the engine looked very clean with the Amsoil but I'm guessing the Redline went to work in the ring land area.
Check out Auto Rx. It's a mix of esters, some of which are better for cleaning than the stuff used in ester engine oils. It's safe for the engine and cleans great, especially the ring land area where it matters for performance and mpg. It won't clean as quickly as a solvent like Seafoam but it will clean better and more gently plus it will raise film strength and several good properties of the oil instead of lowering them. I believe it's recommended to use it for a whole oil change interval and with a dino oil only. It's been a very long time since I've used it. If you're only planning on using one quart of Redline or Motul, the Auto Rx would be a much better choice.
Once it's clean I still recommend using an ester oil. The deposits in the ring land area are from the oil itself baking off. If you switch to an ester, you will never have to clean that area again.
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Pat04TL (09-15-2011)
09-15-2011, 10:56 PM
#114
Racer
I like your way of thinking. One of the best engine cleaners on the market is just a mix of esters. Running a quart of ester oil will help clean the engine. You know I have to recommend just using all ester but a quart will help.
It was kind of neat to see when I switched from an awesome oil for 75,000 miles (Amsoil ACD) to Redline, the Redline got black very quickly for the first couple changes. Under the valve cover, the engine looked very clean with the Amsoil but I'm guessing the Redline went to work in the ring land area.
Check out Auto Rx. It's a mix of esters, some of which are better for cleaning than the stuff used in ester engine oils. It's safe for the engine and cleans great, especially the ring land area where it matters for performance and mpg. It won't clean as quickly as a solvent like Seafoam but it will clean better and more gently plus it will raise film strength and several good properties of the oil instead of lowering them. I believe it's recommended to use it for a whole oil change interval and with a dino oil only. It's been a very long time since I've used it. If you're only planning on using one quart of Redline or Motul, the Auto Rx would be a much better choice.
Once it's clean I still recommend using an ester oil. The deposits in the ring land area are from the oil itself baking off. If you switch to an ester, you will never have to clean that area again.
It was kind of neat to see when I switched from an awesome oil for 75,000 miles (Amsoil ACD) to Redline, the Redline got black very quickly for the first couple changes. Under the valve cover, the engine looked very clean with the Amsoil but I'm guessing the Redline went to work in the ring land area.
Check out Auto Rx. It's a mix of esters, some of which are better for cleaning than the stuff used in ester engine oils. It's safe for the engine and cleans great, especially the ring land area where it matters for performance and mpg. It won't clean as quickly as a solvent like Seafoam but it will clean better and more gently plus it will raise film strength and several good properties of the oil instead of lowering them. I believe it's recommended to use it for a whole oil change interval and with a dino oil only. It's been a very long time since I've used it. If you're only planning on using one quart of Redline or Motul, the Auto Rx would be a much better choice.
Once it's clean I still recommend using an ester oil. The deposits in the ring land area are from the oil itself baking off. If you switch to an ester, you will never have to clean that area again.
09-16-2011, 12:37 AM
#115
09-16-2011, 09:25 AM
#116
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
Hmmm... this discussion of ester oils to clean up the engine is interesting. If a [Honda] engine has been on regular dino oil for 150,000 miles with regular oil changes every 5000, would there be much need for a gentle clean up with an ester oil or a product like Auto Rx?
09-16-2011, 09:32 AM
#117
idk; best oil is probably opinionated. I use castrol gtx in all my cars with k&n. I forget where i seen a video of this guy actually comparing the insides of every filter available from common autoparts stores (store brand,bosch,fram,stp,k&n etc.) and k&n was the one that actually had a better significant difference. So i stick to that. 
09-16-2011, 10:13 AM
#118
idk; best oil is probably opinionated. I use castrol gtx in all my cars with k&n. I forget where i seen a video of this guy actually comparing the insides of every filter available from common autoparts stores (store brand,bosch,fram,stp,k&n etc.) and k&n was the one that actually had a better significant difference. So i stick to that. 
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09-16-2011, 12:04 PM
#119
Team Owner
Hmmm... this discussion of ester oils to clean up the engine is interesting. If a [Honda] engine has been on regular dino oil for 150,000 miles with regular oil changes every 5000, would there be much need for a gentle clean up with an ester oil or a product like Auto Rx?