CBP_TypeS

Well she's back from her coma. Got the new radiator in. Decided to also do a drain and fill on the trans since I was going to lose some fluid anyway. Got her all out back together and she started right up, smooth as silk. And so much quieter than before.

The radiator had a hole in the top third of the front face on the passengers side. No idea how that could have happened unless it rotted from the inside out. If it was a rock it would have taken out the grill and the ac condenser as well. Unless it was a magic rock.

One item to note on the timing belt change, the service manual for the 07/08 makes no mention of using 181 lb ft of torque on the CP bolt. It says to tighten to 48 lb ft and then mark the top of the bolt and the pulley at 60 degrees forward and then tighten the bolt the additional 60 degrees. This is what I did. See page 6-12 in the SM.

Thanks again to Acurazine for the instructions and guidance.

t-rd

Unless you are using copper plugs, you DON'T NEED TO GAP the plugs. Gapping iridium spark plugs actually damage the tips.

t-rd

I did it this way, and it equals to just about 181 ft-lb

And no one is listening to my method to put on the belt, but criticizing, hence getting the springing action of the rear cam. Loosen the idler pulley, wrap belt around the front cam, tighten the idler pulley, the idler pulley bolt is tapered in the rear that rolls the idler pulley automatically back on dead center when you tighten it down. Loosen the water pump a tad, with all bolts still in, wrap belt around the rear cam, then tighten all water pump bolts. I have zero issue and zero leak with anything. It's been 15k miles since the timing belt and water pump change. Turning the rear cam is ok, sure, but are you doing that properly at 2am and not missing a tooth? That's why I left both front and rear cams not touched when I was wrapping the new belt back on.

94eg!

So I went ahead and left out the shim and the engine sounds nice & quiet. Like others have mentioned, way smoother than before. I'll hand onto the shim in case anything develops in the future.

On the crank pulley bolt torquing method.....Honda has gone this route with all their newer crank pulley bolt torquing methods. The crank pulley bolt is the same part# for all 04-08 TL's so there is no problem using the 60* method on an earlier model. Especially since most people don't have a 180lb/ft torque wrench anyways. I used this method on mine. BTW: Each point of the hex head on the bolt is 60* apart which makes this method really easy.

PS: I don't have any trouble threading the T-belt from the crank in a counter-clockwise fashion. No loosening bolts to make room etc... If the belt is threaded on all pulleys correctly, it will easily slip right over the tensioner pulley wihtout fuss before pulling the tensioner pin. If the rear cam snaps forward or backward, no big deal. Just roll it back to it's mark with a box-end wrench. Super easy.

nfnsquared

Did you adjust the valves? Unless a valve adjustment was done, I'd assume that's just a placebo effect. Yeah, new plugs could make a difference, but after 2 plug changes (one at 106K, the other at 214K), I've yet to notice a difference. Just saying...

I love this new method. It will make it possible to using an impact gun to tighten the crank bolt. I've seen posts where guys say using an impact gun is prohibited by the SM, but there's nothing in the 04-05 SM warning against it...

However, I find it hard to believe that only 60 degrees (1/6 of a turn) of travel will increase torque from 48 to 181...

totally agree..

t-rd

I have yet to see a tech at Honda taking off or putting on a crank bolt using a 6' long extension bar + lodge tool. I saw the same paranoia comments on Amazon.

94eg!

In that 60*, I saw the torque shoot right up past the 150 lb/ft limit on my flex-beam torque wrench. That's when I switched to a ratchet & pipe to finish the job.

94eg!

Just keep in mind that there isn't a tech working for a dealership anywhere that really gives two squirts about your car beyond the dollars they make. The engineers who provide the info found in factory service manuals definitely know what they're talking about and their word is worth ten times what any mechanic will tell you.

FYI: I'm not saying that it actually says anything like that in the service manual. I have quite a few OEM service manuals and have never heard such a statement (it may be something new).

94eg!

Nope. Didn't do valves. Prior to this work I had a odd idle that would dip whenever I pressed the clutch in. The rev's would momentarily drop to about 500 and then recover. Now it seems rock-steady every time.

mising

Yep it was bent exhaust valves on cylinder 5. Pulled the head, dropped it off at the local machine shop. It only cost $110.00 total to replace them. Got it all put back together this afternoon and it is all good now. Thank you all for the advice and support, my son's a happy camper now!

rkpatt

I have recently completed a TB replacement on a 2001 Honda Odyssey J35 (my 4th J35 TB project). The PS pump was moved out of the way by disconnecting the lower hose but pump is now noisy (bearing type noise) after reinstall . I subeqently flushed and bled PS system was and the pump still makes the noise. I purchased a rebuilt pump at at one of the chain auto parts store but seems makd noise but not as bad. However something is not right. I even tried a 2nd rebuilt pump and it is having problems too.

I am now now wondering is the concave "washer" that goes agains the timing gear
behind the crankshaft pulley was installed backwards throwing the PS belt alignment off thus creating a trust angle problem and cousing the poblem wiith the pump. Just looking at the belt, I cannot tell. Is it possible that the "washer" could have been installed incorrectly without causing other symptoms ?

My visual observations with crank pully revove seemed to show that crank pulley was installed correctly (clean metal) on the washer only where the crank pulley touches and a minimal distance between the outside of the crank pulley and the lower timing cover.
I could measure the distance between back of the crank pulley and the block (at the oil pan connection and compare if to another vehicle. I am looking for suggestions on how to confirm that washer was installed correctly short of removing the timing covers ?

-Thanks

rkpatt

oops . please delet this message. thx

t-rd

Are you positive that you installed the crank pulley washer incorrectly?

Should concave "IN" if that makes sense.

94eg!

This image in the lower right clearly shows how the crank pulley washer (called the guide-plate) should be installed. The belt should only have a chance to ride against the rounded lip with no sharp edges capable of touching the belt. If you install it backwards, the sharp edge of metal plate can grind away on the belt.

rkpatt

Thanks for the replies to my previous post (half awake when I typed it) about the timing belt guide plate ( "crank pulley washer"). I remembering being careful to install it with the concave side in and recall seeing timing belt cog markings on that face of it. However, the power steering pump problem has me second guessing and I want to verify that the timing belt guide plate was installed correctly . I guess that I could remove one of the top timing belt covers (front cover seemed easiest) and look for wear on the outside edge of the timing belt (vehicle has been driven only a few miles). Anyone have other ideas on ways to check this short of pulling everything part again just to check this ?

t-rd

If you aren't sure then you should at least pull the crank pulley again to check.

This is why I wrote on the outside face of that piece with the word "OUT" using a black marker. This is no mistaking which side faces out when I'm tired and go put the stuff back.

rkpatt

Since my alst post, I removed the crank pulley and the pull imprint is there. I also remove front upper timing cover an di not see any evidents of rubbing on the outer edge of the timing belt. Everything looks ok. I will mark it on the next one I do. -Thanks

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

should i also replace the thermostat for the 105K service?

what drive belt and where to get to them?

Thanks

ekrekel

Yes, water pump too you'll already have all the coolant out. I use OEM timing and accessory belts.

nfnsquared

Thermostat? Meh, really up to you. I haven't yet and I'm at 222K and doing fine.

Cheapest price on drive belt that I've found was via Amazon Prime, $19 shipped:

ekrekel

I guess I'm erring on the side of caution if it fails shut you'll be overheated on the side of the road because of a $20 part and 20 minutes worth of work.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

does anyone know the part number for the thermostat? and where can i buy it

btw, how many gallons of coolant would be enough?

ekrekel

#5 - $31 + shipping WATER PUMP/Thermostat for 2006 Acura TL

Eternal 28

Yes, I replaced my thermostat with an OEM one at 105K.



I have this belt on my car and this thing is whisper quiet. I think it's much better than the OEM belt I had on there. The goodyear Gatorback belts have been bought out by Continental and renamed to Continental Elite series belts. You may also want to check on your Drive belt tensioner and air flow tube because they are notorious for dry rotting and cracking.

This one is for 04-06 ACURA TL.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

anyone else had experience on the continental elite belt?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

i have a brand new timing belt just laying around if anyone wants it for cheap. i had already bought the kit but my friend gave me his new belt after he sold his TL

t-rd

Continental elite belt = Goodyear Gatorback. Quiet

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It's definitely not 20 minutes...
and the thermostat I swapped out the oem one for was not as beefy. The oem one was in perfect shape after 100K miles.

gt1

I'm not going to replace the thermostat. I think it is a "random failure" rather than a "wear and tear" item, and an aftermarket part is likely to be an inferior quality.

Where do you put the stands when lifting the car? The lifting points will be taken by the jack.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

jack front and rear points, to place jack stands on sides.

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

I would change the thermostat.

If you're doing the water pump you are draining about half the coolant anyway. Might as well drain the rad, replace the thermostat, and put all new coolant in the whole system.

Ziplok

Great write up. Just what I was looking for!

beastliest

Thanks for this writeup. Very detailed.

Bpk89

Nice write up

BoneStock04TL

I'm about to hit 104k and I'm starting to order the parts for my 105k service. That being said I have read a few different parts lists for the 105k service. Also considering this DIY was posted about 6 years ago I just want to make sure the parts list is complete and correct? Is there anything extra you guys included in the 105k service when doing yours?
Thanks!

t-rd

Crankshaft seal: $6.08 -> ended up not replacing, bone dry.
OEM Thermostat with gasket: $27.93
Powerbuilt 20" 1/2" drive extension: $13.70
Honda Coolant, 2 gallons: $28.46
Whiteout: ?
zip ties / binder clips: ?

Brake kleen, 2 bottles: $9
timing belt kit: $159.44 from Amazon, I had $30 of gift certificate
Lisle harmonic balancer socket: $35

I borrowed an old electric impact gun and the crank bolt holding tool. The rest of the tools I already have. You'll need a torque wrench rated up to 200 ft-lb to torque the crank bolt to 181 ft-lb. I bought one rated up to 250 ft-lb made by Tekton, $71.91 from Amazon.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

where did you get the coolant for so cheap? amazon is $28 a gallon.

Taquila1

iTrader: (1)

Great illistration, Thank God I marked the right cam. A lobe must have been sitting on dead ctr of a valve because it slipped once in ea direction and if I hadn't marked the cam gear I woldn't have seen it. I got a large glass of wine before I turned the key. I was either going to celebrate or sulk in sorrow. There's a excellent vid on utube also. I want to wish u the best on loosing the crank pulley bolt.

t-rd

I got coolant from the dealer at $13 a gallon, and I picked them up on the way home one day. That means no shipping and bogus handling fee, just tax. DON'T assume everything on Amazon is cheaper than anywhere else.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I usually shop around...but a lot of times Amazon dropping it off on your doorstep is worth something to you too.