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A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*

Old 10-01-2015, 12:47 PM
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Steven is a little obsessed over his rides..
They're pretty sweet.
Old 10-01-2015, 11:28 PM
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the carbon fiber shell he's building to protect it lets you know he's serious.
so you know that's right...
Old 10-02-2015, 12:03 AM
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I get on his case about double parking.. he pays no attention, because Steven Bell Stingray owner.
Old 10-02-2015, 12:05 AM
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Dude...I have never double parked with as much as I love my babies...I park far as fuk...or I park on a corner spot, back in as close to curb as possible...on rare occasions where I have to just take my chances, I do but I light a candle to La Virgen to ensure the car stays ding free.

Double parking is the best way to ensure you don't get dinged, but you are highly likely to get keyed!
Old 10-02-2015, 01:26 PM
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i'm going to replace the thermostat also as preventative maintenance.

do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one
Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive
with gasket
Amazon.com: Fel-Pro 35162 O-Ring: Automotive Amazon.com: Fel-Pro 35162 O-Ring: Automotive


does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)

Last edited by sockr1; 10-02-2015 at 01:28 PM.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:30 PM
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sooo, more importantly...can we change this to a poll to see who does the best DIY timing belt change?
Old 10-02-2015, 01:33 PM
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That dude who cranks them out in 1 hr flat and charges only $20 would surely win.. I mean.. he's done literally thousands of timing belt jobs.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:34 PM
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Thousands, you say?

What ever came on that guy? Did anyone here use their lunch hour to take him up on the offer and confirm just how fast he is?
Old 10-02-2015, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
That dude who cranks them out in 1 hr flat and charges only $20 would surely win.. I mean.. he's done literally thousands of timing belt jobs.

Where is he located? I'd gladly pay that since i am coming up on 105k
Old 10-02-2015, 01:38 PM
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bro...if that's a serious question, that is perfectly timed humor.
I think he's in Jersey...
Old 10-02-2015, 01:42 PM
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Dirty Jerz.. once word got out that he was cranking them out for only $20, there was a line around the corner from what I hear.

Last edited by Majofo; 10-02-2015 at 01:49 PM.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I think he's in Jersey...
Yep.. but I think he should have clarified which service he was actually providing.
I heard he was a man of his word.. Currently on worker's comp. Carpal tunnel + TMJ.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:50 PM
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TMJ, you say...
but how can you get that from doing timin...oh,
never mind.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:51 PM
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So, does he do the belt swap by hand?

I mean, is it a hand job?

Because 1hr/$20 sounds pretty good for that sort of service.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:52 PM
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I heard he also hurt his shoulder.. reaching around
Old 10-02-2015, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cu2wagon
So, does he do the belt swap by hand?

I mean, is it a hand job?

Because 1hr/$20 sounds pretty good for that sort of service.
Manual labor for sure.. he even holds the nuts in his hands to prevent damage.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:53 PM
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BTW I was incorrect above. Acura quotes the spark plug job at 1.5 labor hours ($185) and the WP/TB/Tensioner @ 6.9/7 ($900).
Old 10-02-2015, 01:59 PM
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combo breaker..
Old 10-02-2015, 02:15 PM
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ULLLLTTRRRRAAAAA COMMMMBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


Old 10-02-2015, 02:34 PM
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computer whoopin' yo ass J..
Old 10-02-2015, 02:36 PM
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always the case...
unless Tekken 4...then I could go button H.A.M and dominate
Old 10-03-2015, 10:13 AM
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5-second timing belt change:

Old 10-03-2015, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
i'm going to replace the thermostat also as preventative maintenance.

do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive
with gasket Amazon.com: Fel-Pro 35162 O-Ring: Automotive


does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)
I went with OEM Honda and it does come with the gasket already. I didn't know this so I ordered a gasket, now I have an extra one in my parts box.

Last edited by t-rd; 10-03-2015 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 10-03-2015, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nist7
Cool.. but that's not a timing belt, that's just the drive/accessory belt spinning the alternator.

I heard Justn tried this on the TL, got his socket stuck.
Old 10-03-2015, 03:10 PM
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anyone reading this done this on a 2008 TL with a packaged TB kit? the reason i ask is because 2008 has a different serpentine/acc belt listed than the one for 04-07. The 2008 is listed as 38920-RCA-A01, while the 04-07 is listed as 38920-RCA-A03, which is the belt in all the TB kits I've found online so far, and they have different OEM manufacturers listed (08 Bando, 04-07 Mitsuboshi).

At this point I was going to order one of those kits, and then just buy the serp/acc belt separate from the dealer (for an online price) and then sell/give away the belt in the kit.
Old 10-04-2015, 01:34 AM
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They switched mfgs.. don't even sweat it, use the belt that comes with it. It's the same spec. Usually the first letters in the PN refers to the spec and the last letters refer to version or mfg. In this case, mfg.
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:24 AM
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^^^That's excellent to know...
if I keep learning something new every day, I won't be the dumb rockstar for long.
Old 10-12-2015, 03:02 PM
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Did this for the 2nd time.......but this time it's running rough. No codes but then again the navi was just starting up. Thinking of towing it and selling it
Old 10-12-2015, 03:05 PM
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:27 PM
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Shhhh. Trying to find a ride to the dealer haha. This thing has been sitting for 2 weeks. I'm over it.
Old 10-12-2015, 07:11 PM
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well...you did kinda leave us hangin on the coolant issue!??! What happened, finally?

Sell that shit to Kevin...he'd buy it.
Old 10-12-2015, 08:42 PM
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I ended up replacing my water pump since there was no sign of coolant in my oil. All my lines were fine so now thinking of replacing all coils and plugs and go from there Car sounds like complete boo boo and it's been down for over 2 weeks

Went to go test out a TLX advance with 8k on it but half way there I get a call saying guy went to go have it cleaned up for me and it was already being cleaned due to just being sold, Womp Womp.
Old 10-15-2015, 01:57 PM
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Hi Everyone,

I am in need of helps so please help me if you can. I am not a tech or anything like that but I have worked on both of my Toyota cars so I am very comfortable with tools and stuff.

I have replaced my bother acura tl 2004 waterpump,new tensioner and tensioner pulley and also the idler pulley.

step 1- when I first tried to start the car. the car sounds like the belt is not moving so we rotate the pulley six times. after this, the belt seem to move very freely but it just wont turn the engine over. this procedure was done by marking how the old belt was and replace the new belt.

step 2- bought a service manual from automanualsource.com. This time i dont follow the old belt timing mark and anymore instead lining up the cams and crank. that look dead on when I installed the belt and I have verified it again after I rotated six times on the crank pulley with the spark plugs off ( spark plugs issue and one bad coil. will be in the next step if it is the right direction and it is the caused ) and the mark still sits dead on. slap everything on and tried to start the car. This time I did really hear that the car has turned over but just wont start. to me it sounds like something is not firing. I can smell feel at the engine bay so fuel delivery is not the issue I think.

Can any of you please guide me in the right direction and please tell me what I have done wrong that caused the car not starting but it is turning.

He is a college boy and does not have much money and that it is the reason why we decided to DIY with service manaul and youtube video.

Sincerely,

Mike
Old 10-15-2015, 02:21 PM
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^^^^did u get all the sensors plugged back in?

I'm sure you understand, but the TB does not "turn" the engine over.

Are you saying the first time you tried to start the car that the crank didn't turn at all?

If manually turning the crank the 1st time allowed you to go 6 turns without interference, then it's likely that timing was correct. I assume you marked the belt plus each of the 3 pulleys?

Did you get a lot of coolant on the CKP sensor?
Old 10-15-2015, 02:43 PM
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Yes, all the sensor was plugged in. there was only one sensors removed in the process was the intake sensor ( if that is the sensor you are referring to, yes it was plugged in) located just to the right of the PS pulley and sit just left the top of the engine.

the 1st time we tried to start the car, the crank wants to move but it is like something stuck that it cant moved and I am sure that it was the belt.

when we manually turns the crank six times, we did ran into resistance and this was with all plug and coil on. however, it lets us turns over freely with some resistance. at this time, this is where I bought the service manual and the rear cam was 30 degree off so I think the timing is not correctly but not to sure.

I marked the belt only where the arrow on the crank and the two cams are.

Yes, we did got a hole lot of coolant coming out and I was very surprised because my two Toyota was not that much. This could be the angle of the design that Acura Tl store the coolant on the engine block.

I did not clean up the coollant with brake cleaner because it was just a little clean ( I dont know how sensitive is this CKP sensors but I soak my toyota engines sensor all the time and start it up when it is still wet.

in the second round. instead of brake cleaner spray directly at it. I just soak the towel with brake cleaner and wipe around the CKP sensor.
Old 10-15-2015, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by outfire
...at this time, this is where I bought the service manual and the rear cam was 30 degree off so I think the timing is not correctly but not to sure...
Then you quite likely bent something when you tried to start it that first time. Time for a leak down test.

The good news is that it may only be on the rear head....
Old 10-15-2015, 03:00 PM
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Sorry NFNsquared for this reply because I cant seem to find the edit button.

I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).

In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.

I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
Old 10-15-2015, 03:01 PM
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For anyone in Utah who needs help with their Acura / Honda vehicles, look no further than UTAH TSX (AcuraZine Community - View Profile: UTAH TSX). I bought the timing belt kit, plugs, serp belt, t-stat, and gaskets online. Dropped it off with 2 gallons of coolant and him and his son did a top notch job. Had it back to me in 2 days. They buffed my headlights, de-greased my entire engine bay (thing looks brand new), and even snapped my front bumper / fender back in place. Saved a ton of money and couldn't be happier. He even kept all of the old parts to show me what kind of shape they were in. Huge thanks to him and his son!
Old 10-15-2015, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by outfire
Sorry NFNsquared for this reply because I cant seem to find the edit button.

I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).

In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.

I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
Well, that could explain why it didn't start, but with the rear cam 30 degrees off when you turned the engine with the starter, you could have still bent something. Only time will tell. Best of luck

That coil/plug issue sounds similar to the "water in the ECU" issue which is well known on our TLs. You should check the ECU for signs of water/corrosion. You should also check the A/C drain tube to be sure it's not plugged.
Old 10-15-2015, 03:26 PM
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thanks for all the help NFNsquared.

for this sentence. "Well, that could explain why it didn't start, but with the rear cam 30 degrees off when you turned the engine with the starter, you could have still bent something. Only time will tell. Best of luck"

the 1st time when I removed the old belt. the rear cam was at the -30 degree with memory recalled. didn't look at the front cam and the front cam was maybe -10 degree and the crank was 30 degree. does this tell you anything?

as for right now, I will open up the whole top engine valve cover but just want to know how to ensure a bent or bents in the engine. I have looked at many of Ericthecarguy video but could not grab all the trick behind it. looking at the service manual and I know this is a time consuming job but I dont give in for it. can you please guide me to how to identified bent or bents and what should I look for?

as for this car, if I was my brother, I would not buy this car. the freaking transmission dip stick looks like it was never removed and the bolts was so corroded. the intake tube was ripped in half. the maf sensor is stuck on that when I attemp to remove the bolt and all it does it making a haxegon shape into a circle. I cannot imagine that the seller lies to his teeth telling the kid that he baby the car.

for the ECU water thingy. I will tackle it after the car start. as for now, I just want to the to start and have him drive it to honda dealer and re-learn the CKP setting.

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