rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Chad?

I hate cars

He's got 5 open threads that he's brought back from the dead to preach about redline. Please trust me when I say his own trans problem was made up. Some of the things be said were completely impossible like a grinding noise when putting it into park. That can't happen without a broken hard part and since I called him on his lie he's been bringing all of these threads up. Ignorance is like a disease. I'm going to call this disease Chad.

Some others besides this one:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=761094
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-problems-fixes-128/transmission-whirling-tapping-noise-895498/
Here's his made up story. Read it carefully, you'll see he had an agenda from his first post. https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/grinding-after-transmission-3x3-fluid-change-911237/

1KLRTOY

4 months with Redline hi temp ATF (plus 2ozs break in additive) in the PS with no leaks and no noise and the fluid is still red. Sure looks like this will work just fine long term. Thanks IHC

Majofo

Considering at the max fill line, it's ~0.2-0.3L and the system holds 1.1L, you'd have to change out the res many times to get it close to 100% new fluid. We're talking over 10 bottles of PSF. That's fucking asinine.

And your goal is to keep air out of the system. You know it's not a closed system, right?! It cycles air out as part of the process. You're just wasting PSF, money and time.

Are you serious about brake fluid?! Do you work at Jiffy Lube?

Majofo

You also don't need a buddy for this job.. lock to lock until it won't go. Having someone there is just helpful. All you need to do is secure the tube down a long bottle to ensure it won't leak or spill.

I hate cars

Glad it's working! I was a little nervous about leaks but so far so good. I just did a thorough undercarriage inspection and saw nothing. I still need to put the additive in it though. That was a part of the original plan and I haven't done it yet. I marked the original fill level on the reseviour and it hasn't moved so I guess that's a good sign. Please let me/us know if you ever develop leaks. I almost feel good enough about it to maybe not recommend but at least suggest this as an alternative to expensive PSF.

I've been meaning to ask, do you own a Vette?

I hate cars

There's a brake fluid pump that circulates brake fluid, didn't you know? And he's right, if you do a drain and fill of the brake reservoir, the fluid stays clean.......IN THE RESERVOIR Who cares about the fluid and water in the calipers, it's not important anyway. Only the extra fluid sitting above the master cylinder not doing anything matters. Should that part be in red? Lol.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yep

1KLRTOY

I do own a 01 C5 that I bought new,its a fun ride. I would think that the RL ATF could be recommended, I just don't believe it will cause any problems with the PS, it has to be a much better fluid than the Acura/Honda fluid..

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

but one would then have to define "better"...

Majofo

Ask BETTy

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

She already know, bruh...I'm like DJ Khaled. I'm the best.

Also, to stay on topic, I swapped my power steering fluid for vegetable oil...car has never handled more smoothly. Highly recommend.

Majofo

Is he really trolling? Shit, I hope so for his car's sake.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Uh oh...this guy is making enemies I wouldn't wish on my own enemies

Majofo

Betty fights all your fights.. and nobody wants to piss her off.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Seriously...that's true. I'm usually the one reasoning with her on why she shouldn't go rip someone a new one...

Chad05TL

yes it does too get circulated. That's why it gets dark in the reservoir.

Chad05TL

I think IHC said on one of the other threads, the air in the reservoir is making the fluid turn dark.. But that is not true either because the air in my brake fluid bottle is not turning the new fluid dark... And both the new bottle and the brake reservoir are capped. But yet the brake fluid reservoir still turns dark over time. It is because the fluid gets dirty because it moves in there.

And the power steering also moves and circulates because just look at the hot and cold level lines on the container. That is another indication right there. It pulls it in, it pushes it out..every time you start and stop the car.. Plus there is a power steering pump which pushes fluid.

But you all can do what you want to do. I don't really care.

Majofo

Randeezy03

To the OP, thanks for the instructions. I just did my flush and it was simple and painless. I dont think I will do a second flush unless I feel the steering wheel is tough. Thank you for the detailed and simple instructions. Feels good to DIY.

Orjinal

Thanks for the DIY. Just what I needed.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wonder if there's benefit to doing a 3 x 3 or something...like, how many times would you need to go lock to lock and circulate, drain reservoir and do it again to get close to all the fluid (including in lines and system) swapped to new?

I hate cars

Probably a lot but who knows. I do the turkey baster now once a year just to keep fresh fluid in the system and remove some of the crap from the system. I think this is fine for maintenence but if switching to a new fluid and wanting to get all of the old fluid out, the other way is better. If you're just wanting to keep relatively new, clean fluid in the system, it doesn't hurt to do a drain and fill once in a while. It's by far the easiest and quickest way and as long as you stay on top of it you'll end up on average with just as fresh fluid as flushing it every few years. I'm lazy so I do the turkey baster method. I think I need to look up the system capacity to see just how much we're replacing by doing a partial drain and fill. I'm guessing it's 1/5th of the capacity but that's just a guess, I have no idea.

I'm just rambling on and on. My only point is the "flush" is better for sure but the drain and refill if done frequently enough (1yr?) should be more than adequate. I got even less sleep today, I hope I don't post in the wrong thread again lol.

96SC4

i was getting a whine over the winter from my power steering...
i did the turkey baster method and replaced with fresh OEM fluid.
never got the whine again... i do think the fluid level was a hair low though.
either way, this forum & IHC helped...
thanks!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

except you posted bicycle stuff in the wrong thread KNOWINGLY last time!
hahaa...

Okay, I have a mityvac7400 that makes this task LITERALLY a 5 minute job.

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

Maff: % Old fluid = (1 - 0.3/1.1)^n
where n is the number of reservoir drain and fills.

10 drain/fills gets about 95% of the old fluid out. 14 gets you 99%. Asinine is exactly what this is.

I flush the fluid every year. Every time I do so, I flush two bottles of new stuff through to catch all the old stuff that was left behind. Then I reconnect the hoses and fill it up. Takes me like 4 or 5 bottles and that's being OCD with the extra bottle flushes to get 99.999% of the old stuff out. Mathematically, you would need to drain/fill the reservoir 40 times to be equally as effective.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You've mathematically proven you're a fkn dork.






and for that I'm jealous

Majofo

reading > you

Dumb RS

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

gets all the girls yo

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I can't be dumb if I know I'm dumb...
It's mathematically impossibru

Majofo

The res has a lower chamber that usually holds gunk but you can't turkey baster it since it's below the main chamber. Even if you did 10+ drain and fills, you don't clear that hard sediment and crap completely. Either get a new res or clean and dry the res when changing PSF.

I hate cars

I took mine off years ago to clean it when I was switching over to Amsoil and if I had to do it again, I would easily replace it with a new one. Way too much work and I never could get the screen completely clean.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think the sludge is what's keeping my car's steering so buttery smooth though...

Majofo

I have a new one waiting to go in..

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

I plan on doing this soon in addition to this whine fix posted by Majofo

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ne-fix-754586/

Anyone have opinions on Lucas Oil Power steering fluid?

Lucas Oil/Power steering fluid with conditioners 10442 at AutoZone.com

I hate cars

I generally stay away from Lucas products. They tend to be loaded with seal swell agents which are unneeded and unwelcome.

Some think the Honda power steering system is sensitive to which fluid you run in it since it requires a thicker fluid than all others which is another reason not to run the Lucas stuff. Personally I've run the too thin Amsoil fluid and now I've been running Redline high temp ATF for about 3 years and its never worked better. I may not suggest running this ATF for everyone but I would suggest this ATF long before the Lucas PSF.

Sierra

So I changed two PSP's and flushed did the lock to lock, o rings and all but it whines still and not just when it's cold. It whines the whole time it's on. The reservoir has not sign of bubbling in there. What do you think is the next step? Possibly the serpentine belt making that noise?

strate_ill

Has anyone heard of power steering conditioner? And if so is there a recommended one?

croat4

Hey guys.. just a quick question. I have the Acura TL 2008 and it sometimes (not always) makes a noise when I am backing up and turning the wheel left or right.
I just checked the power steering fluid levels and the fluid level is below the 'lower level' mark so I guess I need to add some fluid.
Should I just add some fluid or flush it completely?
I have had this car since 2010 and have never changed the power steering fluid.


Also, this oil is on sale, should I get it? Says it is good for Honda and Acura 2007 and newer?


Champion 4186K - Honda Power Steering Fluid | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thanks!

thoiboi

You've had the car for 5 years and never changed the fluid. You don't know when the fluid was even changed at all since you got it. I think it's safe to say you should change it now..

Also, I'd stick with Honda OEM fluids or Amsoil like the guys in here recommend.