denny crane

Will I run into any surprises like a nut too tight too unscrew (like i had with the oil plug).

nfnsquared

Not as long as the bolts in question were torqued to spec. If they've never been removed, then you should be OK.

But that fill bolt requires a lot of force to get it loose, even when torqued to spec. It will make a very loud "pop" sound when it breaks loose. I thought my swivel had snapped, but it was just the plug breaking looses. It's been the same each subsequent time I've removed the plug: lots of force then all of a sudden a loud pop which will scare the crap out of you if you're not expecting it.

SouthernBoy

Do NOT use inferior quality tools for this job if it is the first time the fill plug has been removed. You run the very real risk of breaking a tool because this fill plug is going to really be in there very tight. Replace the aluminum washers with new ones and definitely use a torque wrench for the drain and fill plugs and the check plug if you chose to remove that one. The torque specs are in this thread so just read through it (33 ft/lbs for the fill plug, 29 ft/lbs for the drain plug, and 8.7 ft/lbs for the check plug as memory serves me).

I have never removed the check plug because, well you really don't need to if you make sure the transaxle case is level and you refill with 2 quarts 10 ounces of the good stuff.

If you take your time, go slowly and carefully (so you don't pour to fast and get a back flow when filling), this job will take about one hour. The actual drain and fill takes around fifteen minutes. This is the easiest and least messy manual transmission drain and fill I have ever done on any of my previous cars. And you do not need to remove any of the items previously mentioned such as the engine air cleaner housing, the flexible ribbed throttle body coupling, or the battery and tray. With ratchet extensions, a socket swivel, a remote pickup tool, and a long neck funnel, you can reach everything you need to reach.

Numnutts27

I will be purchasing my GM Syncromesh in the morning. This thread will be great help. Thanks!

jimmyl

There's only one way to find out!!

jeffhuangji

can any one tell what does 3x3 mean?

RJNN TL

I changed my transmission fluid and I gotta say for my first time.. Damn that was easy. Fill till it comes out the sight hole. Dayum. Haha. The top fill hole had to be taken off by the previous owner, because it came out with not TOO much oomph. But a nice trouble free change. No leaks and I even reused the same washer. Though next time I plan to replace it. And upon putting it in reverse I could tell a difference. I can rev match also now unbelievably easy without the tranny feeling clunkyish. That stuff did the job. I plan to keep this in there about 15-20K then do another change.

And if the GM stuff is unavailable or out of production anytime.. I will switch to Redline since I hear so much about that too.

RJNN TL

It is done in Automatic cars. Means pretty much change the fluid and refill 3X. The 3rd time being the final fluid. It's easy. Drive your car for the 1st time for a little. Come back. Change it. Drive your car again. Then refill, then your done. :P

Though on manual's it is not really recommended.

castleone

this is an awesome tut. thanks!

Numnutts27

Just swapped my Tranny fluid to the GM synchromesh and it is great! Shifts super smooth. I recommend to anyone with a 6-speed.

jimmyl

Well, it was one month today that I swapped to the GM fluid. I have not had one single occurrence of the shifter popping out of third or grinding in any way. NOT A SINGLE TIME!!!!
Before it would happen several times a day.
Just amazing that a fluid can make such a physical difference. Do it!!

sodaks2k

iTrader: (4)

Subscribed. Thanks!

anthracite_ftw

I ordered 3 qts of this "magic juice" last week, and it should be arriving some time tomorrow. I figured I would just have a shop do the drain and fill since I don't own a torque wrench, but I called around asking for quotes today and they were obscene. $80 just for labor seems pretty steep to me... I guess that means I'll pony up for a torque wrench and have some fun doing it myself.
Can anyone recommend a good (and relatively cheap) torque wrench for the job?
I also have a novice question about jacking: With the front of the car on jack stands and the floor jack in the rear under the tow hook, is it safe to work under? Or do I need to invest in a couple more jack stands or some ramps?

sodaks2k

iTrader: (4)

Sears makes some good quality torque wrenches. that being said, I got mine from harbor freight.

I think the scenario you described is "safe enough." I would highly recommend getting two more jack stands though.

nfnsquared

NO, NO, NO!! Never get under a car unless supported completely by jackstands and/or ramps.


YES, YES, YES

anthracite_ftw

Yeahh after actually considering that idea, I realized it was kind of a dumb question. Definitely wouldn't want to be under a car supported by something on wheels and with the potential to collapse.

nfnsquared

Well, my reply was to when you're raising the entire car. Never trust a jack to hold one end (or any end for that matter) while you're under the car...

Jackstands on one end with the wheels chocked/car in gear/p-brake pulled on the other end (on a level driveway/garage) is fine.

SouthernBoy

I use ramps for the front wheels with my car pointing away from my house in my driveway. The driveway has a slight downward slope. Then I use a floor jack on a 2"x10"x3' board (protects my driveway) to raise the rear at the center jack point just a few inches to level the transaxle. My ramps are homemade and are quite strong and much better than the typical Rhino plastic ramps you find at AutoZone type stores. This works great for my purposes.

And yes, never get under a car that is being primarily supported by a floor jack... or any jack for that matter.

riicky

since i heard a lot of good stuff about the GM fluid i am planing on switching to the GM fluid. is there any site you can order that fluid from? dealers prices up here are crazy high!!

sodaks2k

iTrader: (4)

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/gm-synchromesh-availability-alternative-803374/

VicTL06

Just to confirm, you ordered 3 quarts because essentially you need 2 and 1/3 bottles to do a complete change, correct? Or is 2 bottles sufficient? Reason I ask is b/c in Canada, the bottles are 946ml and 2.3 US quarts = 2.18 litres. This means that I am essentially one "cup" short if I only get 2 bottles. Can I get away with it, or should I buy the third bottle?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

2.3 qts per drain/fill.

I wouldn't order just 3 qts. I'd order 7, and take care of the 3x3.

nfnsquared

Huh? You don't need a 3x3 for MT flush.

And OP, don't run your transmission a cup low. Get the third bottle.

VicTL06

Thanks. I think that I already knew the answer, I just needed some validation. Cheers!

So one other question: my TL's transmission is still under warranty. I want Acura to change the syncros, but they won't do it unless they witness it. Of course, you can never get it to do it with a mechanic in the car. I should probably wait to do it and keep trying to video record when it happens? I'd love to hear any other suggestions.

nfnsquared

Yeah, if you put the GM fluid in, you'll be SOL for demonstrating the 3rd gear issue, but that's not a bad thing. Several of us 6MTers have never had the TSB done, just the GM fluid.

VicTL06

Do you know offhand what the TSB number is? I'd like to give it a read and see if it requires that a tech actually witnesses it happen.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

TSB 08-018

TSB Number: 08-018 NHTSA Number:10026204 TSB Date: July 18, 2008 Date Added to File: October 7, 2008
Failing Component:
Power Train: Manual Transmission

SYMPTOM:
The 6-speed manual transmission grinds when shifting into 3rd gear, pops out of 3rd gear, or is hard to shift into 3rd gear.
NOTE: These symptoms can be intermittent and sometimes more noticeable in colder climates.

PROBABLE CAUSE:
The transmission has a faulty 3rd gear synchronizer or 3-4 shift sleeve.

CORRECTIVE ACTION:
Replace the 3rd gear set.

VicTL06

^^Thanks for that. Well, I emailed the local stealership and forwarded the TSB. The argument I was getting was that they need their tech to witness it happen. And for $57 of diagnostic time, they did eff all. I feel a bit cheated that they charged me even that, given that I diagnosed it.

My argument back was that since the TSB states that the problem can be intermitant (as mine is), that it is a tacit admission from Acura that a tech may not be able to reproduce the problem at will. We'll see what I get back from them.

vonsquid

OK, here's a dumb question: The check plug referenced here, is that the hollow-shank bolt with a spring inside and a 12mm head? If so, what is the spring for?

Adobeman

NO. Put that back together, it's not the check plug. The check plug has a 10mm head. It's definitely not hollow either.

Just look at the pictures in the first page of this thread.

SouthernBoy

And IF you remove the check plug, which is not at all necessary for the drain and fill, make sure you use a torque wrench when you re-install it, set to 8.7 ft/lbs. Several members have not done this and have tightened it to the point of wrenching the head off of the bolt. Does not make for a happy camper.

Be smart. Either don't remove it at all or if you do, use a torque wrench.

vonsquid

OK, I crawled back under the car and see the error of my ways. Just in case someone else makes the same mistake I did, here's a photo to share.

con5tant

iTrader: (4)

what is the check plug for? i'm assuming when the tranny fluid starts leaking from the plug (when the plug is removed) then that is when to stop filling it up with tranny fluid?

sodaks2k

iTrader: (4)

Yes, and it's also to check the condition of the fluid. Post #13 in this thread...

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=13

SouthernBoy

Correct. But you do not need to remove it to do a proper drain and fill. Just make sure your transaxle case is level (use a carpenter's level), then refill with 2.3 quarts (U.S.) of your chosen fluid.

Smunderdog

Awesome thread - just changed mine this morning without any issues to speak of and took for a quick spin around the block - silky smooth right away. VERY much improved.

I disconnected and removed the top of the air filter box (4 screws, 2 hose clamps) and didn't even have to use a swivel to loosen up the fill plug - just had a long extension and was able to get a straight enough angle on it.

con5tant

iTrader: (4)

quick question, the washer for the fill and drain plugs the same sized washer for the engine oil plug?

Hondaforlife954

Can any one shed some light on this?

Hondaforlife954

Found this http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

Can you reuse the old washers? just flip them?

SouthernBoy

The transmission drain plug and the oil pan drain plug use the same aluminum washers. The transmission fill plug's washer is quite a bit larger. Don't forget to use a torque wrench: 29 ft/lbs for the drain plug and 33 ft/lbs for the fill plug. If you choose to remove the check plug, that one takes 8.7 ft/lbs.