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So I purchased a new 2016 SH Advance from Acura of Reno and I just completed my CA registration today.
On the day I purchased my car and drove it back home (from Reno to Sacramento), I received a few Electronic Parking Brake errors logged into the system. The dealership was unable to find a problem with the EPB and on my way home it occurred again (note that both times it happened in pretty cold weather). This time though, CMBS kicked in a few times on the highway back home even though it was a normal highway with no dangerous conditions. At one point, the system braked quite hard for me even though there was no danger in front of me.
Fast forward a few days...
Signed up for the AcuraLink Premium trial today and 5 minutes afterward I noticed the following:
1. Brake System Problem
2. Electronic Parking Brake Problem
3. All Wheel Drive System Problem
4. Brake Hold System Problem
5. Hill Start Assist Problem
6. Road Departure Mitigation System Problem
7. Power System Problem
8. The infotainment comes on for about a minute and then shuts of completely. Also, the transmission gear indicator appears VERY glitched.
9. The car no longer starts . Flashes a few times and that's the end of it.
Any ideas!?!?! The car has 650 miles on it and I'm genuinely concerned. I've had Honda/Acura problems for my entire life but I have never seen issues so large. Images here.
The problem could be a simple weak battery. My RLX Sport Hybrid had sit in the showroom for a while and the battery had been drained and charged several times. When I first took it home, it lit up like a Christmas tree with warnings BUT when I took it in and had the battery replaced (and all the error messages reset), everything was fine and has been functioning perfectly for the past year and a half.
Sadly, many of the RLX's sit on the lot for a while before being sold and either normal parasitic loss or potential buyers checking out the car can cause the battery to be severely discharged which results in a weak battery that never comes back to normal 100% function.
Just my guess based on my experience, the dealer will be able to make a definitive diagnosis.
Yea, honestly I definitely think it's a battery issue. That makes me a lot happier. Hopefully a quick battery swap fixes everything . Thanks Hondamore!
Anyone else notice CMBS issues? I will try driving around with the system on "near" to see if it's this sensitive. I know my 2014 MDX is not this sensitive.
In reality the complexity in modern vehicles makes them susceptible to all sorts of issues when one or more components in the system fails regardless of the make and model of vehicle. It is unfortunate that it has happened to you.
More than likely you have a F-CAN communication failure/ corrupted control unit which affects the entire F-CAN network leading to non of the systems being able to communicate with each other or the gateway. Sometimes it can be as simple as a loose ground wire to one of the control units. One simple control unit may create all the faults you mentioned above.
Finding a communication problem is not an easy task and will take time to diagnose so do plan on picking up a loaner.
No worries though, this is why we have warranty and the dealership will find the problem and address your issue.
I had to deal with a mass airflow sensor performance problem on a new Audi earlier due to a small leak in the intercooler charge pipe. It was no walk in the park to find the culprit. Good luck.
A weak battery should not trigger the CMBS and engage the brakes on an open highway. It could some of the other error messages. Something else could be amiss.
The 2014's had a recall to reprogram the CMBS. I have seen the HUD indicate 'brake' when closing in on traffic, but never did the system engage the brakes.
IMHO the CMBS incident is separate then all the other problems......
The other problems seem to be coming from a weak battery, or some kind of sensor (wheel sensor). The CMBS could be from bad programming, a bad radar unit, or a misaligned radar unit.
I think you should have it towed to your closest Acura dealer, and let them take care of it.
I went back and checked my service invoice from the battery replacement and it said, "Inspect Battery management system which is showing higher than normal current draw. Test and replace Battery. Reset all DTC Trouble Codes. Inspect and update software. Complete system power drain and reset. System now tests- ok." That wording suggests that perhaps more than just the battery was at fault for all of the trouble lights, but replacing the battery and resetting the system fixed the problems. My thinking is that the weak battery caused other systems related to the battery to malfunction, but even though other systems where involved, the weak battery was the ultimate cause. Just FYI.
So the car started this morning, but it states that there is an error with the Power System and All Wheel Drive System still. The gear selector display still appears glitched. I called my dealership and they advised to have the car towed in case something acts up. Will keep this thread updated.
I'm betting the source of the problem is the battery, followed by the computers triggering everything else to get your attention. Every time my lights blew up on the dash, looking like everything was going wrong, it was actually just on thing or one system triggering others with a simple explanation and repair. Sight unseen, I bet replacing the battery and resetting everything is all that is needed. I could be wrong. Keep us informed. We will try to help you where possible.
I'm going to step to high school for a moment and say...... called it! Glad that is all it was. Now invest a lot of time to explore all of the interesting throttle input techniques and enjoy that fantastic wave or torque! Just watch out for the cops because you will find yourself driving much faster than you are expecting. What a sleeper! Take care.
I've not had much to post lately, but this thread reminds me about how terrific this forum is for owners of these cars, One or more of us has by now been through pretty much anything that comes up, And even if not, there's usually good advice here on how to proceed. (And then there's pgeorge, who will jump in to show you how to completely take apart your car!) Happy holidays; it's been a great year for driving, if not for humanity.
I've not had much to post lately, but this thread reminds me about how terrific this forum is for owners of these cars, One or more of us has by now been through pretty much anything that comes up, And even if not, there's usually good advice here on how to proceed. (And then there's pgeorge, who will jump in to show you how to completely take apart your car!) Happy holidays; it's been a great year for driving, if not for humanity.
Well said, fsmith. These forums are really the ONLY source of information about the RLX and I am very thankful to all of you for sharing information so freely and completely.
I wish all of you a very merry holiday season and wish you all a healthy, happy and prosperous 2017.
yaa...nowadays you'e be surprised at how important the battery is....
Even in my 10 year-old RDX, when my battery became weak due to a dying alternator, the tranny would act up. It would try to pull away from stop light in 4th gear or something. It's like the car forgets to shift back down to 1st gear after coming to a stop. I had to use sportshift mode to manually shift the gears.
^^A dead battery is especially frustrating with a sport hybrid...you have this huge lithium battery in the trunk and still can't start the car??? Maybe they are working on an emergency cable that draws power from the hybrid battery when inadequate amps are detected in the 12V battery so the car can be started??
There needs to be a better way to alert owners that the battery is going out. Plenty of odd warning signs like steering wheel doesn't telescope, odd gauge behavior. You'd think that there could be a simple test for battery getting old and give a maintenance warning. Mine went out when I was out of town and I had to go buy a battery instead of Dealer replacing under warranty. That's a whole other story on another thread.
There needs to be a better way to alert owners that the battery is going out. Plenty of odd warning signs like steering wheel doesn't telescope, odd gauge behavior. You'd think that there could be a simple test for battery getting old and give a maintenance warning. Mine went out when I was out of town and I had to go buy a battery instead of Dealer replacing under warranty. That's a whole other story on another thread.
It is funny that you say this, because there is a sensor that is suppose to do that already there.
I guess it does it does not work as intended......
^^Hmmm, maybe the nature of lead-acid batteries is such that they test "normal" right up until they fail. I actually asked the dealership to test the battery in my RLX before I took delivery and it tested "normal". It wasn't until I got it home that it lit up practically every warning message and failed to start.
It might be time to say goodbye to lead-acid batteries and see if a lithium ion 12V battery could be made to do the job????? Alternatively, it may be time to find a new way to test batteries???
[QUOTE=pgeorg;15922994]It is funny that you say this, because there is a sensor that is suppose to do that already there.
I guess it does it does not work as intended......
Pgeorg - is it the same for the 2014 as well as the 2016s? Is your source material for the both model years?
Again: You are "the man", pgeorg. I have DashCommand, which I use for my CTS-V. It absolutely rocks, giving me all the data I need to um, drive assertively, um, er, yeah . For reasons unknown to me, it's simply never occurred to me to use it on my Sport Hybrid.
Do you guys who use an OBD-II adapter think that it, or the software that keeps track of the data, give any sort of early warning about the battery going below spec? I'm into the third year of my SH-AWD, and concerned about the lack of warning of the battery failing, which seems to have happened to several of us. I've had a DBPower 600A portable jumper battery in my Amazon cart since this first came up on the forum but have never gotten around to purchasing it. I'm wondering if the OBD-II data will help with early diagnosis of a weak battery?
^^My advice would be to pull the trigger on buying the portable jumper battery, put it under the netting in that little slot above the battery in the trunk and you'll never have to worry about the battery again. It is one of those "just in case" things that gives you peace of mind even if you never use it.
My wife used hers a few weeks ago when her 7 year old battery finally called it quits when she was out getting her nails done - a minute later she was boosted and on her way to the dealer to get a new battery - nail polish still intact .
For any Canadian members, Acura Canada has a mail in rebate of $10 for all Acura automotive replacement batteries purchased before January 31, 2017. Just FYI for anyone who may be close to needing a battery replacement. Our service manager said they don't even bother testing batteries older than 5 years since nearly all of them will need replacement by that point, so no need to pay for a test, just proceed with replacement.
OK pgeorg - you put it out there. If you have an appropriate place to do so: would you capture the metrics for a SH full throttle launch? SPORT vs ECO modes? And from a moving baseline (say 30mph - or whatever would be more useful). I am just curious from a real world, pedestrian standpoint what this car performs. I know there are more exacting track and dyno example, but for us daily drivers, it would be an interesting perspective, even if hybrid metrics involve fuzzy computations.
^^My advice would be to pull the trigger on buying the portable jumper battery, put it under the netting in that little slot above the battery in the trunk and you'll never have to worry about the battery again. It is one of those "just in case" things that gives you peace of mind even if you never use it.
My wife used hers a few weeks ago when her 7 year old battery finally called it quits when she was out getting her nails done - a minute later she was boosted and on her way to the dealer to get a new battery - nail polish still intact .
For any Canadian members, Acura Canada has a mail in rebate of $10 for all Acura automotive replacement batteries purchased before January 31, 2017. Just FYI for anyone who may be close to needing a battery replacement. Our service manager said they don't even bother testing batteries older than 5 years since nearly all of them will need replacement by that point, so no need to pay for a test, just proceed with replacement.
As always, just my two cents.
I totally agree with you, and I have mine in the same spot together with the tire inflator.
Fsmith: I am 99% sure that they will not give any easy warning, just maybe let you know what a check engine light code is.....
OK pgeorg - you put it out there. If you have an appropriate place to do so: would you capture the metrics for a SH full throttle launch? SPORT vs ECO modes? And from a moving baseline (say 30mph - or whatever would be more useful). I am just curious from a real world, pedestrian standpoint what this car performs. I know there are more exacting track and dyno example, but for us daily drivers, it would be an interesting perspective, even if hybrid metrics involve fuzzy computations.
***pretty please***
Yes I can do that, although I have the snow tires on at the moment.....I am sure it will break traction very easy at full throttle.
A little more specific: Full throttle launch up to what speed? Should I select 1st gear in SPORT mode? (time to try this, because I have not as of yet)
Moving from 30mph to what speed?
I will try to get it done this week.
Yes I can do that, although I have the snow tires on at the moment.....I am sure it will break traction very easy at full throttle.
A little more specific: Full throttle launch up to what speed? Should I select 1st gear in SPORT mode? (time to try this, because I have not as of yet)
Moving from 30mph to what speed?
I will try to get it done this week.
I am thinking more real world situations, not necessarily the best the car can do (as with track conditions) - what most of us experience with this car as a daily driver...
Full throttle launch at least to 60mph (higher if you deem safe and in an appropriate location - your decision)
I would like to see the metrics without forcing 1st gear - however I am certain several members would like to see it with 1st gear launch. I would find the camparison interesting.
For moving, I am thinking of an on-ramp merge into a freeway so again to 60mph (and again higher if the highway allows).
Most of these I am curious with torque and hp from the hybrid system. Having driven the RL with a J series engine for 10 years this car is dramatically different. Instead of the thrill of Vtech rush, we now have instant torque most Honda drivers are unaccustomed. I am curious how that is reflected in the metrics of this car.
Ultimately be safe and I hope the members will contribute to any resulting bail bond.
Layton1 Congrats on new toy, enjoy! Sux to hear you had to go through some issues, it's frustrating when you get something new and it doesn't work. Hope you won't have any other issues...
I also live in Sacramento, might see you some day on the road. Please post some pictures of RLX
12-21-2016, 10:02 PM
. Flashes a few times and that's the end of it.
. Thanks Hondamore!
