2005 Acura TL 6MT (3rd Gen) Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Replacement- Notes

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Old 07-28-2014, 11:57 PM
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2005 Acura TL 6MT (3rd Gen) Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Replacement- Notes

I wanted to start a consolidated thread with some of the helpful posts I found with pictures, not just from this site but another. I also wanted to share my lessons learned working on my TL 6MT b/c there were some things that I think weren't mentioned elsewhere that might help others:
- The other sites with helpful pics: https://acurazine.com/forums/showt...&highlight=app
https://acurazine.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=12
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-ge...placement.html
I personally think the last one from the TSX site is better b/c the poster did a better job illustrating the pictures with color coding. I used it most when doing my APP replacement, only referring to the others for a cross reference.
- I think the other posts from other members shared their experiences based on their automatic transmission cars. I think the experience with the car is different for AT vs MT.
- I have never replaced my APP before. My car only has 92K miles and is a 2005 model.
- I did get the requisite code P2138 + others which persuaded me to change the APP. I considered tightening the cable like others suggested but mine didn't have significant slack, plus I didn't want to experience "limp mode" while making a road trip.
- To do the repair, you need a 10mm AND a 12MM wrench for the cable nut. The 10mm tools will work fine for all the other bolts in this fix. I used a ratchet and wrench.
- Getting the cover off the APP and the mounting bracket WAS NOT EASY. There isn't a lot of room to maneuver and I didn't feel like removing the cross bar (which apparently isn't in the TSX).
- I decided to get out my DeWalt drill and attach a combination of adapter and a 10mm socket so that it could extend the 6" into the area where the 10mm bolts were...HUGE DIFFERENCE. I loosened and tightened the bolts easily at that point. This is what took me the longest time.
- I followed all the instructions in the TSX post (not going to rehash all it here)
- Total time for me was 2 hours because I checked and double checked my steps. Plus I was trying to think of an easy way to loosen the bolts which is when I got the bright idea for the drill. Plus I had some distractions/phone calls to deal with.
- I have an 8 hour drive to deal with soon so I will post an update on if the APP replacement actually helped my original conditions. (see below)
- Shop around for the APP! The local dealer wanted $230 for the part...or $330 to change it out themselves. I did convince them to price match another dealer's price if I brought in a website printout (e.g. acuraoemparts.com)
- I got my part from Amazon from a Honda dealership in CA...best price at $130 shipped.
- The Acura dealer wanted to charge me $100 to diagnose the CEL and pull the codes....SAVE YOURSELF THE MONEY AND GO TO AN AUTO PARTS STORE LIKE ADVANCED AUTO and borrow their's for free. Took 10 mins to plug it in and diagnose my own codes.

BACKGROUND AND ORIGINAL CONDITIONS BELOW:

- My issues only started in April 2014. My experience was what others explained as "stuttering" when cruising at a consistent speed mainly on the freeway at 55pmh-70mph. To me it felt like a strong gust of wind hit the front of the car resulting in some resistance...but it went away after a second. After experiencing it over and over, I realized I wasn't imagining things and that there was something going on. Not seeing a significantly degraded performance or any warning lights, I just drove with it.
- In May 2014, driving at 35mph and accelerating on a city road, the 3 lights turned on (CEL, VSA, and the ! light).
- The lights all cleared by the next morning as I was driving to Advanced Auto to borrow their OBD tool...go figure.
- The car actually felt like it ran fine so I thought it was a 1 time issue...but no...
- The 3 lights turned on again during a 3 hour road trip while I was on the high way. AFter I got to my exit is when I first experienced "limp mode"...and I was shocked at how I couldn't accelerate. I barely made it up a hill to the hotel.
- After I checked into the hotel and got back in the car, the issue cleared again...so shutting off the car helps temporarily.
- I don't feel shutting the car off is a good long term solution...I recommend just replacing the sensor. Even a local dealer service guy told me that they see these sensors fail more in the summer.

Feel free to PM with any questions.
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