thewrangler99

4.7 quarts
5 quarts

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

How is this a poll?

There's a right answer....it's in the owners manual.

totaledTL

Poll- ...Until the dipstick indicates it's betw. the marks....

crazyasiantl

iTrader: (7)

fsttyms1

I for the entire life of my car have always poured in 5 full quarts. I never messed around with the 4.7

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

I catch sales for 5qt + filter. I like having that bit left over to top off as needed.

It's pretty convenient. Even if the level is between the dots, I'll add oil twice between changes and use the full 5qts.

AlanW

Always 5 quarts with the filter change. In fact, if you fill the filter mostly up with oil before installing it, you have about 4.7 qts left.

01tl4tl

you guys know its ONLY the atf that reads `between the dots` right???

the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOW
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine~

if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)

4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause

AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~

This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!

NOTE to all `5qt` jug buyers
ck actual capacity of jug on label!!!, I noticed the other day it says `5.28 us quarts` on the nextgen (recycled) oil I bought
thats a little too much to throw in,,,
-my opinion...1/4 qt over full mark= no biggie..1/2 qt over= a bit of a worry~

so the last bit in the jug is kept around for the kids cars-or the lawn mower oil change

rcb2000

what happened to the oil in the passages that can not get past the pressure releave value and drain back into the oil pan, DRY don't thing so paranoid more likely, shurely not an issue by anymeans, doesn't really make much difference if the filter is full, empty or parcially full, there still is an oil film on the surface unless you've run some type of cleaner through it to remove the oil film and if you did then you really are not staying on top of the maintenance and why you have to use a cleaner to remove the sludge buildup.

Severin

4.6 Quarts after a drain. I pre-fill the filter first, install it, then dump the rest in the crank.

01tl4tl

ok not physically DRY but by any industrial standard, empty
you are not lubricating properly until decent oil pressure is obtained,
the tiny amount of oil left in the engine--and a dry filter-which takes time to fill BEFORE any oil gets thru it and to the engine... isnt much protection

With all your years in research, certainly you can attest that the majority of engine wear takes place at startup,,and a start without oil in the filter is several seconds of pain and scratching going on inside~

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

^I remember a product test video in which a bunch of mechanics ran an engine without oil. They put some additive in the oil, then drained it. The engine ran for like an hour, and they eventually just revved the hell out of it until it blew.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if the manual is wrong. It took 5 quarts to bring the oil up the the full mark on the stick.

My 2000 w/146K is running through a bit of oil these days. Maybe a quart every few thousand miles, so I'm inclined to keep the level on the high side.

AlanW

I have had other cars where pre-filling the oil filter made a big difference-motors where you'd hear some bad things before the oil pressure built up if you didn't. I do it mainly as a precaution. With today's synthetic oil, it's probably not a big factor, especially if it doesn't sit and drain a long time.
However, if the idea of pre-filling an oil filter brothers you, you are prefectly free not to do it that way. I can't see jumping 01tl04tl over a harmless suggestion though..

rcb2000

maybe that is why I don't subscribe to your theory or share your paranoia about installing a empty filter and the three to four seconds it takes to build pressure isn't an issue to me.

Now if you don't change your filter every time, use cheap oil and wait extended periods between oil changes then you are creating a sludge issue and creating problems and need the extra pressure to make it through the clogged oil passages.

gold2003tl (90)

i put in what it takes to get to the full mark, which is about 4.6 quarts every time. my engine never burns oil so it stays there for the whole drain interval. as for filling the filter i just fill it up to the to the top once, and let it get absorbed before i spin it on. iv never dumped all 5 quarts in, but it probably doesn't hurt anything.

timberland73

iTrader: (1)

I've always done 5 quarts.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I do about 4.5. I use almost the half quart to prefill. Never burns oil and I change it about 8k miles.

pacificharrison

iTrader: (1)

noob question alert:


what happens when you put too much oil into our cars?

thewrangler99

your engine seals starts to leak with too much oil pressure in the engine. please correct me if i am wrong....

rcb2000

they might leak because the level is higher and if they are worn but in no way will it have any effect on the pressure.

01tl4tl

its more about the high level in the oil pan, contact with moving parts like rod ends, how that can aerate/foam the oil and lose its abilty to lubricate

a tick over the max line on the TL is ok,,there is some safety margin built into that just like everything else

01tl4tl

pressure issues- ck pcv valve on rear valve cover,,it should have a shaker inside that moves freely
When that clogs up it cause seals to leak in a major way,,recent story by ziner on that subject, rear main leaking, pcv replaced and no more leak!!

totaledTL

This is untrue. Read the owner's manual instruction on checking the oil:

"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.

CAB NY

5 quarts

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info, I was pretty unsure about that too.

I drain out all the oil (as much as it can), and then put in 4.7 quartz. I barely hit the bottom marker on the dipstick. It kinda worries me, but I know i put in 4.7 quartz. I think I'll start putting in 5, probably for the convenience of not having leftover oil in a bottle.

MarcDavidoff

I use 4.6 and leave the rest in the trunk along with some coolant

Skirmich

Since Ever 5qts Not a Single Issue EVA...

Mobil 1 Syn "Extended Performance" (5W-20) 6qt package and in 5 oil changes I get the 6th change for Free
+
K&N "Performance Gold" HP-1004 Oil Filter.
=
75 bucks in local Autozone.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Geez. I got away with mobil EP and filter for 30 bucks at autozone. It wasn't supposed to be the EP kind but the cashier gave it to me anyways.

For 75 bucks, I would stock up. And on royal purple or amsoil.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

I dont put oil in my car at all

farmdevil

Your interpretation is technically correct, but there is an optimal level (4.7qts). The engine will pretty much be fine if it's within the range so no use causing panic in people who read the manual. As mentioned above, things are engineered to handle slight discrepancies. But the "best" thing for your engine would be to fill it perfectly to the top line. I personally always do the 4.7 quarts, but 5 probably isn't a bad idea because a little will burn off over time.

RC99TL

This is silly.
Drain and replace the filter. Throw in 4 qts. and start the engine. Run for a minute or so and then put in about 3/4 of a qt and then add until your within the marks.
Done.

Skirmich

30 Bucks for 5qt of OIL + Filter (FRAM Most likely?) sounds wierd since Mobil 1 EP is one of the most Expensive Oil they sell on Autozone... Even if you say that the filter cost you 6 bucks to 7 that would mean that they let go a qt of EP for 4.5 bucks??? And thats minus Tax too.

I did the math wrong is 67 +/- bucks
MSRP: 1qt Mobil 1 EP: 7.62 + Tax = 9.. ish X 6 = 54
MSRP: 1 K&N HP-1004: 11.44 + Tax = 13 ish

54 ish + 13 ish = 67.... Ish.
MSRP PRICES ARE FROM AUTOZONE

Also:
AMSOIL is PITA to get and Royal Purple is insanely expensive I Dunno how would normally a Person stock either of those.....

01tl4tl

ALLOWABLE oil range and optimum are very different, as noted by farmdevil
you can get by in school with a C average~
BUT
as I tried to explain before- oil is a major part of the engines life blood-
it lubricates, protects parts slamming, sliding, and whirring together-- several thousand times per MINUTE,,
and provides a substanial amount of the engine cooling by carrying away heat thats radiated to the block
Thats the big issue, the loss of cooling ABILTY from oil when its running in allowable range--versus FULL--Optimum
When the level drops below bottem line--thats big trouble waiting to happen as you continue to drive
(note: any car run low on coolant will be low on oil --as the oil got hotter,,and tries to make up for lost cooling)
(note2) there is a small amount of oil consumed by the engine in normal operation- ring blowby--thats why pressure relief systems are there!
most wont notice if filled with 5 qts,,it will be down to the full line after ~7500 miles
So you were always `covered`

back the the blood analogy, your body contains less than the TL!
When you donate blood (hint-please donate if physically able- it really does save lives!)
they take 1 PINT,,thats how much of a qt???

and that leaves you runing poorly, have to drink juice and eat cookies! (they had me at- free cookies!!) before they even allow you to leave and drive!

Now can you imagine your car and how it feels running lets say 2-3 pints low?
the distance from low to full on dipstick is 1 usa qt (iirc)

With the money most of us have in the car--purchase, mods, tires, 105 maitenance..
it seems reasonable to run all systems at optimum
keep brake fluid changed, coolant too, ps fluid,,all those work better with good full fluid

We are all free to run oil as desired,,as long as you keep it ABOVE the MINIMUM line
Some have a `leave it a runnin till the red light comes on` lifestyle
While others think like good mechanics, or pilots, racers,,people who dont like getting stranded
as usual this is all just opinion with the USDA req. minimum 10% fact

farmdevil

That's my take. I drive a lot and I know that the annoyance (and expense) of being stranded in the middle of Illinois somewhere will be worse than the annoyance of checking the fluids and keeping them at the optimal levels.

totaledTL

Yep... that's what I've always done. Worked fine for years. I suppose you could connect an oil press. gauge & see if there's any difference in press. betw. full level and betw. the marks. Doubt it tho- sounds kinda anal anyway.

(farmdevil)- "...so no use causing panic in people who read the manual." <-- Huh?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Pep boys had a sale recently for royal purple at 55 bucks.

You need to learn to stock up on sales. I have over 50 quarts of oil sitting in my garage. Half of that is synthetic, which half of that is Mobil 1 EP. Not to mention a dozen oil filters or so including K&N and Mobil 1 filters. I never buy filter change kits over 30 bucks.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

What do you think is the best oil filter? Obviously you can't go wrong with the OEM Honda part, but I've been thinking about using the Royal Purple filter. I'm using Royal Purple oil, and figured it might have a better filter.

I've seen many YouTube videos of people taking apart oil filters. Fram makes some garbage ass stuff, while Royal Purple seemed to be well constructed.

I couldn't find much about Honda filter quality though, so I wanted some info on Honda vs Royal Purple filter.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

The best is amsoil. Specifically made for long OCIs (oil change intervals). Next would be the bosch distance plus filter (costs 12-15 bucks). Then it would be Mobil/K&N, Fram extended guard (note the model) and Wix/Napa Gold/Purolator PureOne (Wix makes the napa gold and both are comparable to the pureone).

If you don't like frams, I would stay away from the Honda filter. They are made by honeywell, same company that makes fram. Of course they make it to honda's specifications and are better then the typical orange can of death but they still use cardboard endcaps. But then again, while fram has been bashed a lot, you rarely hear of any filter failing, frams included.

For me, I separate filters into OCIs. The better the filter, the longer I can run it in my car. Lower end filters are good for 3-5k, mid level: 6-8k and high quality: 10-15k. Of course this is purely my opinion.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for the info.