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Old 07-03-2010, 1:53 PM   #1
737 Jock
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Console Armrest Cover Tearing/Delamination

The RDX center armrest cover has had bubbles and/or been tearing.

Click the image to open in full size.

The original part was 83423-STK-A01ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A01ZA for black. If you are getting yours replaced be aware the original parts are still available.

However, Acura has revised the part with a new part number. Revision means they have developed a fix. The new part numbers are 83423-STK-A03ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A02ZA for black. Make sure you get the new parts.

If you are out of warranty, the gray one is available at internet Acura dealers for only about $18 to $22. The black one is much more (about $70). So far no one has been able to explain why.

Will post a replacement DIY when I get the part.
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Old 07-05-2010, 7:56 PM   #2
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I had the beginings of bubbles on the center armrest and passengers arm rest. Not as bad as these pics though. They replaced them under warranty.
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Old 07-08-2010, 8:59 PM   #3
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Yeah, I just had mine replaced by dealer not too long ago as well. The bubbling wasn't that bad either, but it happened form night to day.
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Old 07-09-2010, 5:35 PM   #4
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I have a stain on my cover and the car is only a month old. This just made me rethink about cleaning it with liquid solvents.
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Old 07-12-2010, 4:54 PM   #5
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Wow this is crazy. Thanks for the heads up 737 Jock and the advice to fix it. I hope this never happens to me though.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:05 PM   #6
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good to know.

I have the same think on my drivers arm rest and the dealer wants me to pay for it.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:39 AM   #7
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Replacing the Armrest Cover

First, be sure you get the new part number. Here is the new gray armrest cover:

Click the image to open in full size.

You will need a #2 cross-tip screwdriver. Make sure you retain all screws and don't mix them up. I use labeled baggies.

Move the driver seat down and back; ie, out of the way. Open the console/armrest door. It will remain in the full open position.

With a #2 cross-tip screwdriver, remove the three base retaining screws (red arrows):

Click the image to open in full size.

There are 7 plastic clips holding the base to the cover and the hinge is sandwiched in between the base and cover. First you must remove the base by prying out the seven plastic clips. Their locations behind the base are circled in yellow below. Start at the top front corner GENTLY prying out the first clip, then work along the top edge, loosening as you go. The base will catch on the lock hooks -- slide the hooks back to free it. Pry down along the rear edge and the base should come free:

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the inside of the base, showing the top front corner clip. This is the only clip that is on the base (the other 6 clips are on the cover):

Click the image to open in full size.

The base will be re-used. Set it aside:

Click the image to open in full size.

Now you can remove the cover from the hinge. Remove the 2 screws (red arrows) at the top of the hinge:

Click the image to open in full size.

Tilt the lid closed enough to lift off the cover. The hinge spring will return it to upright:

Click the image to open in full size.

You must remove the lock assembly from the old cover and attach it to the new one. Remove the 9 screws from the lock assembly (yellow circles). Tilt the lock assembly up and out from under the plastic tabs on the cover (red arrows):

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the lock assembly ready to be installed into the new cover. You can also see the other six plastic clips inside the new cover:

Click the image to open in full size.

Now just reverse the previous steps.

IMPORTANT; the metal screws will be installed in plastic. Turn each screw down till the head contacts the plastic, then snug it a little. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

Tilt the lock assembly in and under the tabs on the new cover. Work it gently into place and install the 9 screws.

Tilt the hinge enough to install the new cover. Work it into place until the screw holes line up. It has guide pins which will help align it. Install the 2 hinge attachment screws.

Now try closing the lid. It should close and latch. If it doesn't latch, recheck your lock assembly install. It may rattle a little -- that's OK -- the base has bumpers which will fix that.

Now open again and note where the plastic clips are on the cover and base. Work the base into position and slip it over the lock hooks so that the hooks protrude through the slots in the base.

Support the cover from behind and press the clips in, pushing at the clip locations.

Install the 3 base retaining screws. Ask wife to come see her new armrest:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:59 AM   #8
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Color looks way off (I realize this is due to being new).
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:58 PM   #9
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Warranty cover my door arm rest.

Dealer is installing it today.
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Old 08-04-2010, 6:22 PM   #10
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I haven't had this problem, but do you think it might be caused by the sunlight through the sunroof? I always close the visor because I'm paranoid that the direct sunlight will damage the leather interior.
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Old 08-05-2010, 2:02 PM   #11
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its a possibility ...I closed mine too and I have also the foil windshield sunshade as well ...but this is have been a HOT summer in the DC area....
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:32 AM   #12
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It could be the sun, but I doubt it is the heat... Doesn't get much hotter that where I live... 100 in the garage! 110 outside! Mine (2007) still looks like new.
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Old 08-09-2010, 2:58 AM   #13
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Was happening on my center and drivers armrest...Cerritos Acura replaced under 'Goodwill' warranty with the new parts, but if it happens again they said I'm SOL.
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Old 02-11-2011, 8:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 737 Jock View Post
The RDX center armrest cover has had bubbles and/or been tearing.

Click the image to open in full size.

The original part was 83423-STK-A01ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A01ZA for black. If you are getting yours replaced be aware the original parts are still available.

However, Acura has revised the part with a new part number. Revision means they have developed a fix. The new part numbers are 83423-STK-A03ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A02ZA for black. Make sure you get the new parts.

If you are out of warranty, the gray one is available at internet Acura dealers for only about $18 to $22. The black one is much more (about $70). So far no one has been able to explain why.

Will post a replacement DIY when I get the part.
Please note that the new part numbers mentioned above are listed for the '09 and up models. If you search for the '07 ,'08 you'll get the older part number!
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Old 05-24-2011, 5:30 AM   #15
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Our 2007 RDX cover is torn. The problem is it is tan and all I can find is black and grey. Did Acura seriously stop making parts for a 4 year old car?
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Old 05-24-2011, 8:20 AM   #16
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From 2007 to 2011, the RDX interiors come in either Black or Taupe.

Black leather takes the Black console armrest cover.

Taupe leather takes the Gray console armrest cover.

Look at the "Acura Showroom Interior Interactive" and you can see that the console cover is gray with the taupe seats.
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Old 05-24-2011, 8:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 737 Jock View Post
From 2007 to 2011, the RDX interiors come in either Black or Taupe.

Black leather takes the Black console armrest cover.

Taupe leather takes the Gray console armrest cover.

Look at the "Acura Showroom Interior Interactive" and you can see that the console cover is gray with the taupe seats.
Yeah, my wife just showed me that after I posted. According to Wikipedia, Taupe is a dark grayish-brown color. Meh - looks tan to me. At least I know what to order now.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:12 AM   #18
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What online store do you guys recommend purchasing the leather cover from?
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Old 08-29-2011, 2:02 PM   #19
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Old 09-15-2011, 9:22 AM   #20
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737 Jock can you please advice where you bought the 83423-STK-A03ZB from? Looking on the Internet I'm only getting prices as high as 65$ and above.

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2011, 9:37 AM   #21
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Redline Goods...Great leather, more color choices...

See more about it in this thread...

http://rdx.acurazine.com/forums/show...9#post13242659
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:49 AM   #22
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This has happened to my '07 as well! Thanks for the write-up
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Old 12-10-2011, 6:15 PM   #23
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thanks a lot for the instructions, took me 30 minutes. Bought it for $80 shipped. It starting coming apart right after warranty. You are right, they've upgraded the leather, its more durable.
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Old 01-16-2012, 4:47 PM   #24
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In case any of you don't feel like taking this on yourself, I took my RDX in for B1 service today and mentioned the armrest and they said they would switch it out no questions asked. I only have 3 months left on my warranty so wanted to make sure I had everything fixed along with the rear driver-side seat latch which was rattling (another common problem I've read on this forum).
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Old 05-18-2012, 9:36 AM   #25
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Just want to show my appreciation for this thread. My console cover is in really rough shape at 55,000 miles. Completely unacceptable. But, thanks to this community I'm ordering the part and will fix it myself. Rock on, Acurazine.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:07 AM   #26
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Das what we do
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Old 05-23-2012, 2:20 PM   #27
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great write-up, my wife's RDX is also bubbling up, i'm assuming we are out of warranty (at 58k) and truth be told i've never set foot in an acura dealership, but i think with this info even a clutz like myself can fix it once i order the replacement.
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Old 05-29-2012, 4:28 PM   #28
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I'm am so glad that I was able to find this. I hve ordered the replacement part and I am looking forward to completing this DIY. I will def check back in wth the results. Thank You
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Old 05-29-2012, 5:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 737 Jock View Post
First, be sure you get the new part number. Here is the new gray armrest cover:

Click the image to open in full size.

You will need a #2 cross-tip screwdriver. Make sure you retain all screws and don't mix them up. I use labeled baggies.

Move the driver seat down and back; ie, out of the way. Open the console/armrest door. It will remain in the full open position.

With a #2 cross-tip screwdriver, remove the three base retaining screws (red arrows):

Click the image to open in full size.

There are 7 plastic clips holding the base to the cover and the hinge is sandwiched in between the base and cover. First you must remove the base by prying out the seven plastic clips. Their locations behind the base are circled in yellow below. Start at the top front corner GENTLY prying out the first clip, then work along the top edge, loosening as you go. The base will catch on the lock hooks -- slide the hooks back to free it. Pry down along the rear edge and the base should come free:

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the inside of the base, showing the top front corner clip. This is the only clip that is on the base (the other 6 clips are on the cover):

Click the image to open in full size.

The base will be re-used. Set it aside:

Click the image to open in full size.

Now you can remove the cover from the hinge. Remove the 2 screws (red arrows) at the top of the hinge:

Click the image to open in full size.

Tilt the lid closed enough to lift off the cover. The hinge spring will return it to upright:

Click the image to open in full size.

You must remove the lock assembly from the old cover and attach it to the new one. Remove the 9 screws from the lock assembly (yellow circles). Tilt the lock assembly up and out from under the plastic tabs on the cover (red arrows):

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the lock assembly ready to be installed into the new cover. You can also see the other six plastic clips inside the new cover:

Click the image to open in full size.

Now just reverse the previous steps.

IMPORTANT; the metal screws will be installed in plastic. Turn each screw down till the head contacts the plastic, then snug it a little. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

Tilt the lock assembly in and under the tabs on the new cover. Work it gently into place and install the 9 screws.

Tilt the hinge enough to install the new cover. Work it into place until the screw holes line up. It has guide pins which will help align it. Install the 2 hinge attachment screws.

Now try closing the lid. It should close and latch. If it doesn't latch, recheck your lock assembly install. It may rattle a little -- that's OK -- the base has bumpers which will fix that.

Now open again and note where the plastic clips are on the cover and base. Work the base into position and slip it over the lock hooks so that the hooks protrude through the slots in the base.

Support the cover from behind and press the clips in, pushing at the clip locations.

Install the 3 base retaining screws. Ask wife to come see her new armrest:

Click the image to open in full size.

No homo but you are my hero thank for posting this up I am out of warranty and thought this was going to be expensive.
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Old 06-04-2012, 1:17 PM   #30
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I received the part and completed the install on Thursday night. It took about all of 20 minutes and looks great. My GF is extremely happy with the results. Thank's for the step by step DIY.
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Old 07-20-2012, 2:56 PM   #31
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center console armrest "bubbles"

I have the same issue with my 2006 RL, tried talking to the dealer and acura, both UNRESPONSIVE, even telling me "That's not a defect". Call this number at Acura Customer care and let them know it IS a defect and we are tired of hearing it is not our problem. My Rl is is great condition, 85,000 miles and perfect...except for this DEFECT.

800 382-2238 x115188
anthony will answer, flood Acura Customer care with calls and let's get this fixed. spend $50,000+ for a car and this is what happens?
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Old 07-27-2012, 1:50 PM   #32
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Help please

To 737 Jock-

My center console finally tore after all the bubbling. I did look online with the part # you provided, but the cheapeast gray one I found was $$75. Can you help me out and point me in the right direction in regards to websites?

Thanks much!
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Old 08-05-2012, 7:23 PM   #33
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Thanks for the write up/pics!!
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Old 09-18-2012, 1:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 737 Jock View Post
The RDX center armrest cover has had bubbles and/or been tearing.

Click the image to open in full size.

The original part was 83423-STK-A01ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A01ZA for black. If you are getting yours replaced be aware the original parts are still available.

However, Acura has revised the part with a new part number. Revision means they have developed a fix. The new part numbers are 83423-STK-A03ZB for gray and 83423-STK-A02ZA for black. Make sure you get the new parts.

If you are out of warranty, the gray one is available at internet Acura dealers for only about $18 to $22. The black one is much more (about $70). So far no one has been able to explain why.

Will post a replacement DIY when I get the part.
Where did you find it on the Internet for that price? The cheapest price I found was about $73.00
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Old 09-18-2012, 8:38 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Jmhughes View Post
Where did you find it on the Internet for that price? The cheapest price I found was about $73.00
Unless you have a time machine to go back to 2010 (when it was posted), good luck. They've all equalized the prices.
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Old 10-07-2012, 3:09 PM   #36
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Saw this in looking for a replacement for my torn one.

They are made out of leather and pretty reasonable priced if you are willing to install yourself. I messaged them and asked if they would do other colors for the stitching and will update when the reply.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2012-Ac...721b62&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-07-2012, 5:04 PM   #37
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Just heard back and they can do really any color stitching it just takes 3-4 days longer.
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Old 10-26-2012, 3:55 PM   #38
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So because my armrest was tearing and I am outside of warranty I went ahead and picked up one from Autotrimming on Ebay. Spoke to them over the phone first and was confident with them and the work they do. I also went ahead and purchased a shift boot with red stitching to match. They dont make them for the RDX but they do make them for the RSX. I plan on modding it a bit and making it work.

It takes a few minutes to take the arm rest off and then about another 30 to remove all the old staples from the OEM cover. Then it took me about 45 minutes to stretch the leather around the console and re-staple it. I used small 1/4" staples in a smaller staple gun that I have and they seemed to work well. In a few spots that where the staple was able to penetrate the plastic you can feel a little bump under the padding and leather but nothing that will poke through or be uncomfortable.

When its done it looks great! I would say deffinitly spend some extra time really pulling and streatching the leather so that its tight. You also want to make sure that the lines end up being straight when its all done.

This is what the armrest looks like, I will post up again when I get the shift boot put on this weekend.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-26-2012, 6:45 PM   #39
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that looks great! Are the CF pieces from Ebay?
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Old 10-26-2012, 7:14 PM   #40
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It is. I have had it on for a few years now, everyone digs it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-RDX-07...99ba9e&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-26-2012, 7:14 PM
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