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Old 04-19-2010, 9:33 AM   #1
Sperry
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Transmission oil drain plug question . . .

I picked up four quarts of ATF-Z1 today, and plan on doing a drain/fill.
Does the oil plug require any special attention upon reinstallation?

Is there a crush ring on the plug? I didn't get one at the dealer, nor did they suggest one.

On a lighter note, in the last week I've done the plugs and engine/cabin air filters.
This was the first changing of the cabin air filter! Guess the last owner [my brother] was too busy!
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Old 04-19-2010, 9:43 AM   #2
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To do a drain/fill you need nine quarts. It is a 3x3 procedure.

There is a crush ring but it is likely it does not need to be replaced.
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:30 AM   #3
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3X3 is for a complete (almost) changeover. For normal maintenance, a 3.5qt change is fine.
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Old 04-19-2010, 11:07 AM   #4
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its about 3.2 qts will drain out with trans warm from 15 minute drive- then start the draining
remove trans dipstick to allow air thru- just like oil change

most years have a drainplug that you insert a 3/8" ratchet into - a square place in the center of the drain plug and its lefty loosie to remove- not a regular looking bolt type as the engine oil does
Note ATF is stamped above drain so you cant go wrong

Suggest you test plug before getting it hot- can seem to be way too tight from years of sitting.
Break it loose then retighten to 29 foot pounds, same as oil drain plug
If stuck try tightening slightly then remove
Make sure you can get it loose before anything else!

make sure to put back same amount- over filling is really bad for the trans
Follow book procedure to ck level- 10-15 minutes on freeway cruising- then get off and stop on level safe place. STOP ENGINE and pull dipstick- wipe clean and reinsert- remove and now read Level, needs to be in between the dots or lines- anywhere in between is good- towards the middle is better.
appearent Level rises with more heat from driving, so again- do not overfill !!
or drain off excess if it happens
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:14 PM   #5
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I suggest a full drain. If the PO was too busy to ever change the HVAC filters how likely is it he did the transmission?

I have had my car two years and almost 40k and have done three complete drain & fills.

These are glass transmissions.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
I suggest a full drain. If the PO was too busy to ever change the HVAC filters how likely is it he did the transmission?

I have had my car two years and almost 40k and have done three complete drain & fills.

These are glass transmissions.
But if that's the case, then a full drain could be bad for the tranny. I've read tranny's crapping out after people do full 3x3 drain/fill on transmission with 100k+ miles that have never been changed.

I would actually suggest just drain/fill once.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:58 PM   #7
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I'm planning on a 3qt. drain and fill. However, I've no ramps, and the plug is frozen.

It'll have to wait until I can get over to a friend's house.
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Old 04-19-2010, 4:09 PM   #8
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spray some wd type stuff at the edges of the plug to get in the threads
let sit overnight
Now place ratchet in place and set to tighten
Give that a whack or 3 with a hammer to send vibrations thru the assembly- that breaks the corrossion bond and lets you remove it
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Old 04-19-2010, 4:17 PM   #9
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Old 04-19-2010, 9:51 PM   #10
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You can do a 3qt change once a month for three months to ease the transition in the transmission Draining is easy - you don't even need ramps. A floor jack on the middle support on the front frame crossmember will lift it up plenty. Once I get my drain pan in place and the plug out, I actually lower the jack to get a little more fluid out. I raise it again to get the pan out and put the plug back in.

You need to find the refill hole/plug before starting so you don't get stuck halfway through. Do you know where it is? Do you have an oil-jet kit installed?
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:27 PM   #11
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I found that my fill plug was way more tight then my drain plug. In fact, I never got it loose and just filled it through the dip stick.
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Old 04-20-2010, 6:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjohn84 View Post
Do you have an oil-jet kit installed?
This recall was scheduled for Monday, and the car showed up, but the parts weren't there.
Turns out these parts have not been ordered for 17 months, as most of the TLs have had it done already.

I want to get set up for filling through the dip, but with a breaker bar,
I was ready to have a go at both plugs. The drain stopped me dead, however.

As to a jack, I'd not be inclined to work under a car without blocks or stands.
However, just to reach my arm under with a longer ratchet, I guess that'd be all right.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:10 AM   #13
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NEVER get under a car on a jack without a proper support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,
something taller than you are thick... so if car falls it doesnt crush you~
Jacks WILL fail at the worst possible moment

Compression injuries to the chest are among the worst you can try to survive!!
Hint: may not survive!!!!

you can try parking with left wheels on the sidewalk if you have a decent incline/drop to the street- able to slide under, and the car is on all 4 wheels
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:10 AM
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