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Old 07-09-2009, 8:44 AM   #1
StonedCL
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All my Lights came on again .. P0740 .. Tranny...!!

Ok this morning while driving to work all my check engine lights came on but car is driving normal shifting normal... I pulled the codes and I got code P0740
and it said Torque Converter Clutch / Soleniod Circuit... Dam worste thing to see I just put headers on so I thought it was like a 02 senser since the car felt fine!
This is MY 3rd tranny and this tranny has 68K miles on 168k on the car.
I took VERY food car of this tranny changed the fluid twice at DLR and did a 3x2 10k miles ago ALWAYS with honda ATF Z1 and like I said it feels fine!
My question is where sould I go from here i am a DIY guy and i refuse to take it to the Stealership cuz they are gonna tell me I need a new tranny!

I am gonna but the 3rd and 4th gears clutch pack switches I remember reading about those in the helms manul but can find the part# right now!
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Old 07-09-2009, 9:30 AM   #2
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Click the image to open in full size.

If I replace Part #12 and #13 can that fix the problem?

I heard that these switches go bad can that be the cause of my code?
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Old 07-09-2009, 9:48 AM   #3
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what's the cost of the parts?
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:37 AM   #4
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hate to tell you this,,, but 68 on a rebuild is normal
Hopefully its just switches!!

Even constant fluid changes wont fix our problem, clean oil should help- but its not a fix as demostrated by members here
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:41 AM   #5
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what's the cost of the parts?
Those 2 parts are like $50-$60 each I belive its 3rd and 4th

28600-P7W-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE
28600-P7Z-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)


or is it #6 ?

28250-P6H-024 SOLENOID ASSY., LINEAR that is $200

Like I said B4 this tranny has less then 70K on it and i took very good care of it, changed the fluid 3 times and NEVER used ss mode and did not abuse it in any way.. I can not see the tranny all-ready going but with these trannies who knows?

I need some help on this one I put soo much money into this car in the last year thinking its gonna last me a few more years w/no problems.
I dont mind small BS things but anouther tranny ALLREADY after all the pampering!
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:15 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl View Post
hate to tell you this,,, but 68 on a rebuild is normal
Hopefully its just switches!!

Even constant fluid changes wont fix our problem, clean oil should help- but its not a fix as demostrated by members here
I had this tranny replaced in 05 and only has 68k miles on it!
THIS should not happen to what they told me was a updated tranny..
Pwoplw with other manufactures put 150k on the tranny w/o even changing the fluid once and I changed it 3 times, The flid is still red and smells like it just came out of the bottle!
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:45 PM   #7
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ok- good smelling fluid is a good sign, burnt is bad, and you have no other symptoms

We all know codes are JUST clues-- NOT diagnosis!!
Try the switches for that price- its helped other people

despite the revised trans case SOMETIME in 2005 which increased oil passage capacity and added more flow to certain areas, plus moved the recall installed external 2nd gear sprayer to inside of the trans--
expecting it to be perfect is a dream

we dont know exactly when they were sent to dealers as replacements, so some done in early 05 could be the old style
There is still not enough room inside for enough clutch plates/packs for 2-3 gear.
thats the problem, besides cooling them with enough oil being the other big issue

2nd and 3rd take a huge amount of heat and wear, thats what gears get used most in town, and every time the car starts moving or slowing-2nd and 3rd get used again
In town driving is even worse for them

SS has no effect on wear of them -except if over-used to downshift into 2nd at max allowed speed over and over

The dealer doesnt say it needs a a trans unless it does- they have to document what is wrong and they have several,, specific to each year,, driving test, that put max stress on clutch packs- if its bad that will make it show

By test driving and pulling codes with their special code reader (better than what we can get) and inspection of fluid--they determine whats wrong
BUT they charge to inspect it, maybe 100 bucks depending on your relationship with the shop

give those switches a try!!

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-09-2009 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:45 PM   #8
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the acura is not other make of vehicles, and many ziners never changed the fluid and go 150+++
its crazy
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:53 PM   #9
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From what I read here, some members had success with changing those solenoids. You need to replace the screen filter too, but I don't see it on the diagram.
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Old 07-09-2009, 1:07 PM   #10
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From what I read here, some members had success with changing those solenoids. You need to replace the screen filter too, but I don't see it on the diagram.

OK I cleared the codes and took a look at the fluid and everything .
There is a ground wire the came dissconected right over the soleniod IN the diaram above it was screwed down to part #1 by screw #30 in diagram, So I unscrewed the screw and retigtened the wire down with the screw.
While looking under there I also noticed that the metal hose carrying tranny fluid from the filter looks Crimpped I tried to uncrimp it but its like metal i have no clue how it got crimped.

What part # should I start repacing?
Sould i replace #6, or #12 and #13?
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Old 07-09-2009, 2:35 PM   #11
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When your tranny slips or acts up, #12 and/or #13, replacing one or the other or both of these oil pressure switches would possibly fix the problem, giving the clutch packs were not damaged. If you lookup oil pressure switch problems on odyssey, many had good results.
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Old 07-09-2009, 3:11 PM   #12
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this is what i came up with on ALL_DATA

P0740
Notes

DTC P0740: Problem in Lock-up Control System

NOTE:


Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information before you troubleshoot.
Keep these replacement solenoid valves on hand:
Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
Check whether the OBD II scan tool indicates another code. Does the OBD II scan tool indicate another code? YES - Perform the troubleshooting flowchart for the indicated code(s). Recheck for code P0740 after troubleshooting. NO - Go to step 2. NOTE: Do not continue with this troubleshooting until the causes of any other DTCs have been corrected.
Measure the line pressure. Is the line pressure within the service limit? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair the hydraulic system as necessary.
Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve.
Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, and reset the PCM memory by removing the BACK UP fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box formore than 10 seconds .
Using the scan tool, check to be sure that the engine coolant temperature is 176F (80C) or above .
Drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for more than one minute .
Recheck for code P0740. Does the OBD II scan tool indicate code P0740? YES - Replace the transmission and torque converter. NO - The system is OK at this time.
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Old 07-09-2009, 3:20 PM   #13
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Alldata does not give part #'s....

Does anyone know the part # for a torque converter clutch solenoid valve they mention?

Does anyone know the part # for A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C?

I guess I will start with these 2 parts, I really dont wanna go to the last step that says Replace the transmission and torque converter.
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Old 07-09-2009, 6:20 PM   #14
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metal lines usually carry fuel or oil- like maybe trans fluid?
Could have been damaged during header installation??

Loose wires after any project will drive you nuts and freak the computer out
Tighten and reset ECU by pulling the CLOCK fuse
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Old 07-09-2009, 6:26 PM   #15
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I had my transmission pulled to replace the rear main seal, 15 miles later exactly what you describe happened (except I was in limp mode) Brought it back they ran the codes on a bada*s Snap On scanner came up with that code that told them to check this connector with that color wires (was on top of the transmission near the external filter) they pushed on it it snapped in as it was loosa and all was well!

Hope that helps.
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Old 07-09-2009, 6:33 PM   #16
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Click the image to open in full size.

After the code poped up I took a look under the hood.
The ground wire that is connected to part #1 by scre #30 in the pic above came off and was not touching the metal so I re-hooked it and cleared the code.
I drove about 5 miles to get something to eat and the code did not come back.

So my questions are what is that ground wire ground?
How long after clearing a code will it take to pop up if there is a really bad problem, like needing a new tranny?
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Old 07-09-2009, 7:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl View Post
metal lines usually carry fuel or oil- like maybe trans fluid?
Could have been damaged during header installation??

Loose wires after any project will drive you nuts and freak the computer out
Tighten and reset ECU by pulling the CLOCK fuse

Click the image to open in full size.

Wire #12 looks crimped but its like metal it feels VERY hard to crimp.
I belive that carries ATF from the ATF filter to wherever it goes after the filter!
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Old 07-09-2009, 8:25 PM   #18
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How long after clearing a code will it take to pop up if there is a really bad problem .....
About 35-to 50 miles of driving in order to let the ECU does all the seft-test.
If you have a code scanner then the screen will tell you what element of the car is not cleared test ... If all clear then you will get a green light as OK
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Old 07-09-2009, 8:28 PM   #19
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The ground wire that is connected to part #1 by scre #30 in the pic above came off ....
Any groung wire will need to well connected or grounded to the chassis if not electronic elements will not operate well ...You may probably resulte your problem .
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Old 07-09-2009, 8:37 PM   #20
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After reading on the 3G side about other people changing out those switches and how much its improved the shifting I've been wanting to replace those sensors as well because Ive been noticing that my transmission shifts a little rougher than it used to.

are these switches
28600-P7W-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE
28600-P7Z-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)

for a 99 TL-P as well?
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Old 07-09-2009, 8:42 PM   #21
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All the lights just came on right B4 i got home again so now it is time for step #2..
I gotta go to the Acura DLR and get 28020-P7W-305 SOLENOID SET, LOCK-UP 1 2001 CL . This is a set the sell just for code P0740 it consists of part # 28250-P7W-003 and part # 28400-p6H-013 (they are parts 7 and 10 which is #34 in the first and second diagram i posted) and HOPEFULLY this fixes it. The next step is replace torque converter and transmission which 4 me is drive car into Passaic river!

It acctully say to check pressure in the lines first BUT my DLR does not do this and they say its a PITA and the code stated soleniod so hopefully this fixes it!
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Old 07-09-2009, 9:17 PM   #22
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Can not wait to see if Plan 2 will fix your code ...Let us know .Good luck .
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:20 PM   #23
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eleventure I have been wanting to also switch out those switces but those are not what the helms said to switch out , the ones I am switching out are totally different..

Acurabum, I will buy the parts tommorrow if they have them in stock and do it tommorrrow and will let u know.

THis has to work this is my last resort!
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:56 PM   #24
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I answered my own question. lol. Since the 99s have a 4spd trans i guess the sensors are different as well. This is what i pulled up.

(2) 28600-P7Z-003 SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)

It looks like the SOLENOID SET looks the same though
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Old 07-10-2009, 9:15 AM   #25
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My tranny started Bucking and overacting on my way to work.

Well on the way to work the tranny was GOING CRAZY bucking and going CRAZY! I bit the bullet and took it to the DLR so they can tell me if its soloniods or the tranny. I was gonna switch the soleniods myself untill it started buckin!
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Old 07-10-2009, 9:46 AM   #26
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i used to have constant p740 code.. i drain and filled and replaced the internal filter and all has been good for a couple months now over 5k
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:28 AM   #27
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i used to have constant p740 code.. i drain and filled and replaced the internal filter and all has been good for a couple months now over 5k
Yeah I'm hoping for the best...
The Acura DLR said it was gonna cost $150 diag fee and they will be able to tell me what is wrong if its a switch or if its the whole tranny.
I tjhought it was the switch cuz when I ran the codes yesterday I got :
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit ...

and the car was shifting fine for about 20 miles and on my way to work this morning all hell broke loose, started downshifting and grinding gears and just going whack so I ran the code again today and got :
P0740 Torque converter clutch circuit open ...

I was gonna just switch out the soliniods which was like $300 for parts untill it started bucking but now I dont wanna keep throwing money at it and it turning out to be the whole tranny is done!
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:53 AM   #28
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You might want to look at the linear solenoids.
"Top Linear solenoid #6
Bottom solenoid#7
Feed pipes #5

I looked where the top solenoids mount on the tranny and thought that the o-rings could be worn. The o-rings were fitted around 3 small pipes. I pulled out 3 of the pipes, along with it's o-rings. I discovered that the pipes had strainers in them and 2 were totally clogged up. I used carb cleaner to spray all the stuff out. There was also a strainer on the other solenoid's gasket that was clogged up. Cleaned everything up and put it back together.
I thought I fixed the tranny completely until next day my 3rd gear slipped. 3rd gear slips every once in a while. Besides that all the shift are smoother than ever. I use sportshift and when I shift 2nd to 3rd I get the engine RPM to 3000 before shifting to 3rd. No slipping at all when I do that.

CLS and TLS are the same.
For the top linear solenoid I had to remove the battery and the base that it sits on (removed about 6-14mm bolts). Unplug the solenoid harness then remove 6-10mm mounting bolts on solenoid. After you remove the bolts you kind a have to wiggle it out of there because stuck to the tranny. Keep a rag around the are of which the solenoid sits because a little bit of aft will come out. Look for the little pipes with the o-rings on the tranny. After you clean the pipes with carb cleaner put back and wipe the mounting sufaces before installing it back.
As for the bottom solenoid. You can do it from underneath the car on jack stands."
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:11 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by acutee View Post
You might want to look at the linear solenoids.
"Top Linear solenoid #6
Bottom solenoid#7
Feed pipes #5

I looked where the top solenoids mount on the tranny and thought that the o-rings could be worn. The o-rings were fitted around 3 small pipes. I pulled out 3 of the pipes, along with it's o-rings. I discovered that the pipes had strainers in them and 2 were totally clogged up. I used carb cleaner to spray all the stuff out. There was also a strainer on the other solenoid's gasket that was clogged up. Cleaned everything up and put it back together.
I thought I fixed the tranny completely until next day my 3rd gear slipped. 3rd gear slips every once in a while. Besides that all the shift are smoother than ever. I use sportshift and when I shift 2nd to 3rd I get the engine RPM to 3000 before shifting to 3rd. No slipping at all when I do that.

CLS and TLS are the same.
For the top linear solenoid I had to remove the battery and the base that it sits on (removed about 6-14mm bolts). Unplug the solenoid harness then remove 6-10mm mounting bolts on solenoid. After you remove the bolts you kind a have to wiggle it out of there because stuck to the tranny. Keep a rag around the are of which the solenoid sits because a little bit of aft will come out. Look for the little pipes with the o-rings on the tranny. After you clean the pipes with carb cleaner put back and wipe the mounting sufaces before installing it back.
As for the bottom solenoid. You can do it from underneath the car on jack stands."
Thanks for all the insight.. How long ago did you do this and how many miles did you put on the car with no tranny problems since u did this?

I was gonna do this B4 i even though about taking it to the dealer but it started bucking and going CRAZY...so B4 just taking guesses and replacing solenoids I want to see what they say. They told me that they will charge me $150 diag FEE and said that they can tell me if its the tranny or the soleniod.. My gut tells me that the tranny is done cuz the way it was acting this morning , If u asked me yesterday I would have said it was just the soleniods but after 2day Im hoping for the best but expecting the worste!
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:34 AM   #30
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aamco transmissions will diagnose it for free so why go to the dealer?
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:43 PM   #31
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aamco transmissions will diagnose it for free so why go to the dealer?
If u read through the post u would have seen that I diagnosed the problem all-ready.
My car shifted fine and no signs of anything untill all the lights came on yesterday i ran the codes..
Codes yesterday where:

P0740
Torque converter Clutch solenoid Circuit..
So i erased code and after 10 miles code came back BUT still shifted fine, helms manual says switch 2 soleniods that cost $300 and if that don't work then it the TQQ and new tranny so I was gonna just do that cuz car shifted fine untill this morning on my way to work car started going crazy, grinding shifting eradiclly I barely made it to work
Ran code again was the same code P0740 but today it said Torque converter clutch circuit open..

So then i limped to the acura dlr that is 1 mile from my job.. Now after the eradic shifts i think its my WHOLE tranny so instead of wasting $300 and it being the whole tranny the DLR said they would be able to tell me if i just need soleniods or a whole new tranny.

BTW i have a GREAT repore with this DLR one of my old co-workers is a tech there and I am sure they will tell me what needs to be done!
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:53 PM   #32
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wow - my service Manager sends the head tech on a test ride with me for no charge when I have a question on how the trans is acting
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:55 PM   #33
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even though you are over limits of warranty- you had multiple trans failures and acura may give you some generous `Goodwill Warranty` if its the trans

Have to talk with the service manager about it, so dont freak if the service writer says 5 grand to replace trans
just talk to the SM
BUT we are hoping its a simple fix
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Old 07-10-2009, 2:13 PM   #34
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No goodwill here....

Well if u think 10% is goodwill ?

Still $4100 + Tax ..Thanks ACURA...

3rd tranny .. Its not like its my 1st or 2nd it's my 3rd tranny will be my 4th!

I called ACURA corperate and am waiting for a reginal rep to look into the case and call me back Monday by 5pm..
I am pissed.... I told them if they will do 50/50 I WILL FIX it there if not they can shove this car up there u know what!

Well guys what r my next options?
Anyone in NJ/NYC area get a tranny fixed at somewhere othere then a ACURA DLR? How much did u guys pay and how is it holding up?
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Old 07-10-2009, 3:03 PM   #35
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when I was looking for my TL, there was one I looked at here in Morris County with a recently rebuilt tranny. I believe the guy said it cost him around $1,800 or $2K. The name of the shop I think was Ledgwood Transmissions, I think. The guy moved his shop somewhere not too far away, but he may go by the same name. I'll see if I can dig up an details..
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Old 07-10-2009, 3:04 PM   #36
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Ledgwood Transmission
1264 US Highway 46
Ledgewood, NJ 07852-9608
(973) 598-9999
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Old 07-10-2009, 4:37 PM   #37
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Mom and pop transmission shop here in Phoenix quoted me 1350.00, I paid them 350.00 to R&R it and replace the rear main seal (which I supplied).
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Old 07-10-2009, 6:37 PM   #38
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I forgot to mention the service manager has to call the regional corp warranty rep, thats who makes the decision on goodwill
If you have a long service relationship at that dealer- the SM should talk with the local rep to get 50-50 for you-or better

Prepare any receipts of any type services at dealer, and proof of the numerous trans fluid changes, a statement of how much you love this car and the money invested in making it really nice,,expecting that the 3rd trans would finally be a winner..but....suddenly and without any form of warning... it failed over a few days time-
Mention acurazine and the thread you made about the problem

brand loyalty counts to acura corp, they hate to see you go to another brand over a small amount of money (to them)

A HAPPY customer tells 2 friends
an UNhappy customer goes online and tells 2+ million
acura knows this and works with you if at all possible

In this case at 168k Miles, 60 thousand miles past the court ordered extended warranty, and you got almost 70 from this replacement trans- which by other cars with similar trans design getting about the same and no warranty coverage...its going to take Goodwill from you towards acura to get goodwill

If you actually told them out loud- `or stick it`,,,what would you do if you were told this story as the waranty rep and had to approve or deny assistance?
Be ready to be NICE to the corp rep and hope for the best

If you end up at a private shop, make sure they have done several TL trans or they will be doing yours a few times as they learn

10% was what the dealership personally could do- as an independant company-
thats at their loss of profit-
anything more is from acura corps pocket and their decision

Be Positive and Good Luck!!
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Old 07-10-2009, 6:43 PM   #39
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$2500 + - is average to remove- dismantle- replace parts- assemble and install a TL 5speed a/t

based on what ziners have reported over the last 2 years from private and brand name shops
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Old 07-11-2009, 8:28 AM   #40
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Thanks guys..
I called corperate and told them everything and if they do 50/50 i will get it done at the dlr if not I made a appointment to tow it to AAMCO on monday..
I will know monday if they will flip the bill or not..
At least I have a RDX loaner for the weekend!
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