CL: :thumbsup: Kenwood DNX-5120 D.I.Y. :thumbsup:
:thumbsup: Kenwood DNX-5120 D.I.Y. :thumbsup:
This install is for a 2001 CL-S. I finally found a double din unit with Navigation that I liked. I went with the Kenwood DNX5120. Before I get started I'd like to thank member <skyeflye> for his detailed write-up on removing the radio (thats the hardest part of this whole thing)
I originally started this DIY with a Pioneer AVIC 700BT. The unit was defective so don't be confused when you see the Kenwood and the Pioneer.
TOOLS
Flat Head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Ratchet set with 10mm and 13mm sockets
Electric or Masking tape
MATERIALS
New Head Unit
Double Din Kit (http://www.installer.com/item/displa...hp?it=95-7868B)
Wiring Harness (http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-1721)
Stereo Cables (if you haven't already ran them from the amp for your subs)
PDF on removing radio (https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/ice-link-cl-factory-nav-%3D-yes-pics-instructions-154278/)
Lets get started!

*Before I started on anything I connected the new wiring harness (install.com) to the harness from the new head unit. You can solder the wires or just use twist caps. Whichever you prefer.*
STEP 1
-remove oem radio-
Start by downloading the PDF file from the link above provided by member <skyeflye> on removing the radio. Follow the instructions to remove the factory radio. Take your time and make sure you don't strip any screws or break any tabs. I've done this so many times now I can have the car apart in no time at all.
*A quick side note. I used the electrical/masking tape to tape all the screws in place once I took something out during the removal of the radio. You won't forget where they go, and you won't loose any.*
Now you have the factory radio removed you should have something like this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154278
STEP 2
-door sill-
First remove the door sill:

Its pretty easy to pry off. Just lift up one end and work your fingers underneath it as you pry it up. Its only held in place with clips.

STEP 3
-rear seats-
Time to get those seats out. I wanted a clean install so you couldn't see the rca's or antenna wire for the gps:

You have to start with the seat cushions:

One came out out easier than the other for me. There are two metal tabs under the front lip of the cushion (blue circles) that hold the seat into the floor (red circles). Just pull up on the cushion and it will pop up. Might take a little effort so don't be afraid to muscle them out.

Seat removed:

Now that the cushions are out you need to remove the center console. There are four (4) bolts that hold the center console to the floor (red circles). Use the 10mm socket on these.


Now that the console is out you can remove the back cushion. This is one piece and a buddies help would come in handy on this part. I took it out myself, but when I was putting the car back together I had a friend handy to make it a bit easier. With the console out the rear cushion is on hangers and held in with only two (2) bolts (red circles). Use the 10mm socket on these as well. You'll have to lift it up to clear the hangers on the top of the cushion.

All cushions out:

STEP 4
-side panel-
I needed to take out this panel so that I could hide the wires properly. I didn't want to take the risk of pinching them between the cushions and the side panel so I just took it out.
Fist thing is to remove this pillar cover. Its just held in with clips so you can just pry it off with your fingers like the door sill.

The seat belts kept getting in my way so i just unbolted them to make removal of the panel and running the wires easier. The rear seat belt is mounted to the floor (red circle). Use the 13mm socket for these bolts.

The front seat belt belt bolt is covered by this plastic piece (red cirlce).

Use your flathead screwdriver to pop it off. Once its off you can get to the 13mm bolt hold the seat belt in place.

With the belts unbolted you'll have some easier access to the side panel and you can move the pillar cover out of your way so its not dangling down. I just pulled out some slack on the seat belt then placed it on the rear shelf where the speakers are.

Now we can get to the side panel. besides a few plastic clips, there are two (2) screws holding the panel to the side of the car (red cirlces).

Here is the screw on the bottom of the panel.

Here is the one behind the handle (top view). There is a plastic cap that is covering it. Use your flathead to pop it off.

With the screws out you can pop off the panel. I started from the edge of the door and worked my way around. Now you have full access to place your wires as you wish and keep it clean.

Little place to store all the parts while you work is a good idea. Don't wanna mess up the leather!

STEP 5
-running wires-
RCA's from the amp coming from the trunk.

Wires along the side of the car (behind side panel).

Wires along door sill. I taped them together so nothing gets pinched when the sill cover goes back down.


Wires from sill to head unit. I just tucked everything under the carpet.

I mounted the gps antenna on the rear deck next to the speaker.

STEP 6
-mounting new HU-
The new hotness!

The Metra Kit that I bought has simple instructions on how to assemble the double din kit. Once you have the pop-out tray and kit attached to the head unit you should have something like this.

*The double din kit doesn't really mount to the hu and it has a tendency to slide around when fitting it back in. I used the flush mount screws that came with the Metra kit to attach the kit to the hu.*
Make sure you have all the wires attached to the HU. GPS antenna, rca's for sub, power harness, etc. Then you can slide the new unit in with the double din kit. The mounting screws from the oem unit didn't line up for me so i didn't bother making them. As long as the front screws are in the hu isn't going anywhere (red circles).

Looking good already.

STEP 7
-reassemble car-
Now with everything in, its time to test the new hu and make sure she works. Power is hot, sound comes out, and all the options are working! I bought the iPod cable for the Kenwood system and ran it behind the side panel next to the radio into the glove box. Clean, and easy. No one can see it!
Reverse the instructions to put everything back together. Don't forget to bolt the seat belts back on!
All done, and looking good!



Hope this helps anyone that wants to save some money. Better than spending $200 bucks to have someone else touch my car! Clean install, and whenever someone asks, they are surprised when I tell them I did it myself. Great feeling. Good luck with your install!
I originally started this DIY with a Pioneer AVIC 700BT. The unit was defective so don't be confused when you see the Kenwood and the Pioneer.
TOOLS
Flat Head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Ratchet set with 10mm and 13mm sockets
Electric or Masking tape
MATERIALS
New Head Unit
Double Din Kit (http://www.installer.com/item/displa...hp?it=95-7868B)
Wiring Harness (http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-1721)
Stereo Cables (if you haven't already ran them from the amp for your subs)
PDF on removing radio (https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/ice-link-cl-factory-nav-%3D-yes-pics-instructions-154278/)
Lets get started!

*Before I started on anything I connected the new wiring harness (install.com) to the harness from the new head unit. You can solder the wires or just use twist caps. Whichever you prefer.*
STEP 1
-remove oem radio-
Start by downloading the PDF file from the link above provided by member <skyeflye> on removing the radio. Follow the instructions to remove the factory radio. Take your time and make sure you don't strip any screws or break any tabs. I've done this so many times now I can have the car apart in no time at all.
*A quick side note. I used the electrical/masking tape to tape all the screws in place once I took something out during the removal of the radio. You won't forget where they go, and you won't loose any.*
Now you have the factory radio removed you should have something like this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154278
STEP 2
-door sill-
First remove the door sill:

Its pretty easy to pry off. Just lift up one end and work your fingers underneath it as you pry it up. Its only held in place with clips.

STEP 3
-rear seats-
Time to get those seats out. I wanted a clean install so you couldn't see the rca's or antenna wire for the gps:

You have to start with the seat cushions:

One came out out easier than the other for me. There are two metal tabs under the front lip of the cushion (blue circles) that hold the seat into the floor (red circles). Just pull up on the cushion and it will pop up. Might take a little effort so don't be afraid to muscle them out.

Seat removed:

Now that the cushions are out you need to remove the center console. There are four (4) bolts that hold the center console to the floor (red circles). Use the 10mm socket on these.


Now that the console is out you can remove the back cushion. This is one piece and a buddies help would come in handy on this part. I took it out myself, but when I was putting the car back together I had a friend handy to make it a bit easier. With the console out the rear cushion is on hangers and held in with only two (2) bolts (red circles). Use the 10mm socket on these as well. You'll have to lift it up to clear the hangers on the top of the cushion.

All cushions out:

STEP 4
-side panel-
I needed to take out this panel so that I could hide the wires properly. I didn't want to take the risk of pinching them between the cushions and the side panel so I just took it out.
Fist thing is to remove this pillar cover. Its just held in with clips so you can just pry it off with your fingers like the door sill.

The seat belts kept getting in my way so i just unbolted them to make removal of the panel and running the wires easier. The rear seat belt is mounted to the floor (red circle). Use the 13mm socket for these bolts.

The front seat belt belt bolt is covered by this plastic piece (red cirlce).

Use your flathead screwdriver to pop it off. Once its off you can get to the 13mm bolt hold the seat belt in place.

With the belts unbolted you'll have some easier access to the side panel and you can move the pillar cover out of your way so its not dangling down. I just pulled out some slack on the seat belt then placed it on the rear shelf where the speakers are.

Now we can get to the side panel. besides a few plastic clips, there are two (2) screws holding the panel to the side of the car (red cirlces).

Here is the screw on the bottom of the panel.

Here is the one behind the handle (top view). There is a plastic cap that is covering it. Use your flathead to pop it off.

With the screws out you can pop off the panel. I started from the edge of the door and worked my way around. Now you have full access to place your wires as you wish and keep it clean.

Little place to store all the parts while you work is a good idea. Don't wanna mess up the leather!

STEP 5
-running wires-
RCA's from the amp coming from the trunk.

Wires along the side of the car (behind side panel).

Wires along door sill. I taped them together so nothing gets pinched when the sill cover goes back down.


Wires from sill to head unit. I just tucked everything under the carpet.

I mounted the gps antenna on the rear deck next to the speaker.

STEP 6
-mounting new HU-
The new hotness!

The Metra Kit that I bought has simple instructions on how to assemble the double din kit. Once you have the pop-out tray and kit attached to the head unit you should have something like this.

*The double din kit doesn't really mount to the hu and it has a tendency to slide around when fitting it back in. I used the flush mount screws that came with the Metra kit to attach the kit to the hu.*
Make sure you have all the wires attached to the HU. GPS antenna, rca's for sub, power harness, etc. Then you can slide the new unit in with the double din kit. The mounting screws from the oem unit didn't line up for me so i didn't bother making them. As long as the front screws are in the hu isn't going anywhere (red circles).

Looking good already.

STEP 7
-reassemble car-
Now with everything in, its time to test the new hu and make sure she works. Power is hot, sound comes out, and all the options are working! I bought the iPod cable for the Kenwood system and ran it behind the side panel next to the radio into the glove box. Clean, and easy. No one can see it!
Reverse the instructions to put everything back together. Don't forget to bolt the seat belts back on!
All done, and looking good!



Hope this helps anyone that wants to save some money. Better than spending $200 bucks to have someone else touch my car! Clean install, and whenever someone asks, they are surprised when I tell them I did it myself. Great feeling. Good luck with your install!
Very thorough on the install. You'd probably laugh if you saw how I was tucking behind my seat and through the center console.
BTW, you can probably hide the GPS antenna under the dash for a slightly cleaner look. I have mine mounted on top of my steering column right before the firewall. It still gets a good signal on my F90BT.
BTW, you can probably hide the GPS antenna under the dash for a slightly cleaner look. I have mine mounted on top of my steering column right before the firewall. It still gets a good signal on my F90BT.
Last edited by Blazin Si; May 18, 2009 at 06:48 PM.
I love it. I mean i just wanted something with Nav that I could plug my iPod into. I didn't 'need' much beyond that. Thats why I went with the 5120. I have absolutely no complaints about it. I got it on clearance for $550. The iPod interface is flawless, its quick responsive, sounds amazing and looks sharp as hell!
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I love it. I mean i just wanted something with Nav that I could plug my iPod into. I didn't 'need' much beyond that. Thats why I went with the 5120. I have absolutely no complaints about it. I got it on clearance for $550. The iPod interface is flawless, its quick responsive, sounds amazing and looks sharp as hell! 

Yeah its plays DVD's. I have it grounded out so I can play 'em even with the car moving. Plus I don't have to worry about the Nav acting up. It has bluetooth option, but it didn't come with it. The Pioneer did, and for some reason i didn't like it as much as i thought i would. I mean its cool, but the add-on is like 150 for the bluetooth module. i won't miss it with this unit. The firmware update i did for it is supposed to support the 3G but i have a 2G iPhone so i wouldn't know. I'm not worried cause my iPod is the only thing i hook up to it anyways.
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Nice and clean work 
