swoosh

iTrader: (5)

got link brotha?

The 04-06 from what I have been reading is 7.4 qts

here is the link for a 2005 TL
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/Vehic...+ACURA+3.2TL+R



Inaccurate has quit the forum a while back brother....wish he would come back

1> the 65% mix is for quick shifts without flaring...you can go ALL D4 fluid and it wont hurt a thing...you are replacing the OEM fluid with a synthetic fluid....

2> Yes, I still see some shavings on the magnetic plug....I have replace my OEM plug for an aftermarket one with a stronger magnet, just an FYI

3> No idea

4> Redline is the company which makes D4/Type F/Lightweight Type F fluid

MafiaBoy

What's the cheapest place to get it at? I tried all major stores in town like Autozone, Napa, Advance auto parts, pepboys, and non of them carry this brand. Official distributors in Tulsa, OK (where i live) only carry motorcycle engine oil by RedLine. Ebay is about $16/qt while OEM is about 1/2 of that. Any other place anyone knows, or you don't give away fishing places?

Slpr04UA6

^amazon. I think it was ~$140/case when I purchased it.

Nick216

You tryed looking on redlines website? Using your zipcode

dcmodels

My local CarQuest has it for about $10/ quart. Sometimes they have to order it. Amazon has it cheap if by the case.

dcmodels

Can you please provide a link or name or other info for where you purchased the aftermarket plug w/ stronger magnet?? thanks.

MafiaBoy

so yes i did try everyone, and even Carquest. Noone carries that kind of oil and noone ever heard of such except one store that sells performance/race/muscle car parts, and they have it @ $12.99/qt. A little too much but since i am not doing a full rebuild on the transmission, thought thicker oil would be a great benefit

dcmodels

Not to beat a dead horse - my Carquest does not have it in the store - they can order it, and so can every other Carquest in the country. My local Carquest can either get it from the local distributor, or from the regional distributor, which for me is in Calif. My local store can also order it from the east coast, and has done so. So, you have to find a desk *clerk* in your local Carquest that has a clue.

1KLRTOY

Redline can be ordered from Summit Racing or direct from Redline

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I agree, I usually end up buying the fluid on Amazon/SummitRacing....

Also look out of people selling it on the forums....Last go around, I got a case of 12 for 85 bucks shipped....cant beat that....


I just bought it off ebay (from some vendor from China) about 4 years back. The transmission drain bolt size in M14x1.5

Look for that size on ebay. When mine came in, I tried to lift a pipe wrench with the OEM one and with the aftermarket one, the aftermarket magnet was able to hold the weight of the wrench better

Fish63

I wasn't interested in going all the way to 65% racing fluid on the first try just in case I found the shifting too aggressive. In addition, I couldn't really understand how inaccurate was getting his percentages and viscosities, so I took the time to create a spreadsheet that will calculate the percent racing fluid and viscosity with any combination of redline d4, standard racing and lightweight racing fluid. You input the starting mix of what's in your transmission, enter how many quarts are removed and what type of fluid replaces it. The spreadsheet calculates the percent racing mix and provides the viscosity. I checked the accuracy of the spreadsheet against the different examples given by inaccurate and all were within 2% of his numbers so I think this spreadsheet should be good. The spreadsheet will handle up to 6 changes, but it should be very easy to copy and paste to add more changes if needed. I'm happy to share a copy with anyone who is interested. Either sent me a PM or maybe the moderator of this thread would be wiling to post the file for me. The spreadsheet should be easy to modify for other fluids if you can find the viscosity of the fluid online. PM me with any additional questions.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

You can post a zip file here....just zip the excel up and add it as an attachment to your posts...

Fish63

I didn't se a place to upload a file, only upload an image. Maybe it's because I haven't reached 5 posts yet?

Fish63

Sorry for the delay in posting, BTW. Just got a little distracted with work after I got this work done.

Fish63

Sorry for the delay. Here is the spreadsheet. Yellow cells are data entry, orange cells show the percent racing ATF and resulting viscosity. You have to enter how many quarts are removed and then enter the combination of types of quarts that are replaced. There is no intelligence in the spreadsheet to check and make sure that the number of quarts removed equals what was added, so be careful there. When I did my 08 for the first time a few weeks ago, I got 4 quarts out vs. the three that most others reported. Hence the first entry for 4 quarts. Hope this is helpful for everyone. Let me know if you have any questions or problems.

Scottwax

Just over 12k miles on my rebuilt transmission. Shop used Dextron III with Lube Guard Honda additive. Going to do a drain and fill this time with DW-1, then begin adding in Redline D4 until I get the shift quality I want. Now that I have an aftermarket cooler, that fill plug is so much easier to get to!

TL BPJ

So it's been a couple years now. How many of you are still running the 65% mixture and how many of you had transmission problems? I'm still running d4+typef along with the pressure switches so I'm curious to see how everyone else is doing.

1KLRTOY

I'm at 16 months on 65-35% Redline, I have done 5 flushes so far, I also changed the switches and the trans filter, its an 06 with 74k and it shifts perfect, quick,direct and smooth. On a side note I have been using Redline high temp ATF with 2ozs of RL break in additive in the PS for a year and all is well, no leaks or noise,I followed IHC's lead on the PS fluid..

Acura_TL

I've been running about 65% or higher since the summer of 2011.
About 90,000 miles in that time, 160k on car.

I usually try and do a 3x3 every 20k, sometimes up to 30k.
My 3x3's look like this....

Refill #1 = 1 qt. Racing ATF, 1 qt. lightweight Racing, 1 qt. D4
Refill #2 = 1 qt. Racing ATF, 1 qt. lightweight Racing, 1 qt. D4
Refill #3 = 1 qt. Racing ATF, 1 qt. lightweight Racing, 1 qt. D4

I've changed my pressure switches twice.

No issues whatsoever.

YungMoola15

Hey guys if someone could help me out here...
I recently purchased a 05 TL with 172k and was wondering what kind of fluid I should use in the car. I believe dw1 was used in the car prior and I'm not sure if the switches were replaced but most likely not.

I am very weary of using dw1 because it didn't help my CL.
I was looking at Redline D4,D6, F type and amsoil super shift also Mobil 1 AtF.

What would you guys recommend I do with such high mileage?

I hate cars

I've been on a non recommended D4 style fluid for over 110,000 miles. I was on straight Type F for 50,000 miles. I'm now on a mix of Lightweight Type F and D6 (Dextron VI) because I've found the issue with our torque converters and why they go out. Using the lowest viscosity fluid you can reasonably use without excessive wear is the band-aid fix for now and I suspect it was Honda's bandaid fix when they went with the very thin when cold DW-1.


So basically same overall frictional properties as I've always run but a lower viscosity so the torque converter clutch doesn't try to drag when cold.

YungMoola15

So what fluid would you recommend? I don't want to mix and match just straight 100 percent 1 type. I am thinking D6 but F type could work?

Scottwax

Just curious about the synthetic version of B&M Trick Shift. Or is it just blue Type F?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Time for a thread bump.

I just discovered this morning that a shop in town carries Redline ATF.
The only reason why I've been doing DW-1 was because I didn't know any Redline dealers in my area.

Quick run down,

In 2010, got my transmission drained/refilled at Honda dealer, probably used DW-1.
In 2013, I did a drain/refill with DW-1.
In 2014, I did a drain/refill with DW-1 and IMMEDIATELY experienced flaring only on 3rd to 4th gear.
Couple weeks later, got a shop to do the drain/refill, used DW-1 and still same symptoms.

Now it's 2015, figured I'd give this Redline stuff a go, but I don't know what I should start with. Sure, I'd follow the "recipes" only if my transmission wasn't flaring and in good shape.

Ideas? I want this flaring to disappear!
Or maybe it's too late?

YungMoola15

What is flaring? Can you kindly explain? Lot of people mention that word in this thread..

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrGI...ature=youtu.be

It's when you're under constant acceleration and it jumps a hundreds of RPMs up when shifting to the next gear.

Been reading on here, mainly swoosh saying flaring is caused by too much FM.
Lower the FM to fix flaring.

Then again, I remember people doing straight 100% Type-F and have flaring and add in D4 to reduce flaring.

So contradicting.

So confused.

YungMoola15

Oh so lets say when shifting to 3rd gear the car jumps to 4K from 3K right before shifting or after shift?

And yeah I read the same that too little FM causes that? Why don't you go with Amsoil Super Shift? I am thinking about using that in mine.+

Just watched the video, I understand now.

I hate cars

How many rpm is the flare and is it during medium to light throttle? Does it do this at full throttle? Just trying to determine if its switches, wear, torque converter clutch, or something else.

The biggest change in DW-1 is its thinner viscosity more than its frictional properties so the next question would be does it only flare when hot?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, I knew you'd be the one to be able to determine what my fix should be

To be honest, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something other than the fluid that is causing this.

On light-medium throttle, it would flare up maybe 200-300 RPM and truth be told, I've never done full throttle. Max throttle I'll usually drive is pedal maybe a little more than halfway depressed, always shifting before 3k rpm. It does the same thing, hot or cold.

How I drive right now is that when I'm approaching the 3-4 shift, I let off the gas, then maybe 1 seconds later it finally catches into 4th gear. Then I reapply gas.
Driving from a stop, I can keep my foot on the pedal with constant acceleration with no problems up until the 3-4 gear change.
Gear 1-2 catches perfectly, and 2-3 catches perfectly, too.

You've made me wonder, now.
I'm determined to go out sometime and take a video to try full throttle and see how much it flares.

Pressure switches were changed in 2013.

MarcDavidoff

I Hate cars- question for you.. On my 02 TLs, I've had the torque converter clutch slipping for a few thousand miles. I've been doing the D4 trick and only go into D5 when over 60mph and everything has been ok that way. I also have two tubes of Lubegard red in with relatively new DW1 fluid (have done a few 1x3 changes in the last 8-10k). The lubegard had helped some shudders I was having previously, but not for the torque converter issue now. Anyways, you think the lightweight type F may help? Sounds like you have had the same torque converter slipping issue...

I hate cars

Doing it when cold or hot rules out the viscosity change of the DW-1.

The switches affect part throttle but don't do much for full throttle. If it doesn't flare at full throttle the switches might be suspect but they're so new....

I'm wondering if it's bot the trans and maybe the converter unlocking right before the shift. When it flares, does acceleration fall off too? That will determine if it's a true flare or not.

I hate to say it but the 3rd or 4th clutches might just be worn out. I wouldn't give up yet but if it starts to seem like its the clutches being worn, you will probably want to go to straight Type F fluid of any brand. At that point you're just putting a bandaid on it to try and get a few more miles out of it.

A video would be nice.

I hate cars

It's tough to say. Type F and the Red bottle are kind of opposites frictionally. I think you will have good luck with the thin Type F though. I've always had good luck in bringing the 2G back to life with Type F although I never tried the thin stuff in one.

MarcDavidoff

Thanks for the reply. Little confused though- so your thinking try the regular type F? Just try a 1x3 to start or a 3x3?

Mystralhawk

Hi guys,

How many of you guys are running an additional trans cooler? I'm just curious since I am planning on adding one and I wonder if the ratios would be the same. I'm not sure since the added capacity of the cooler.

Refill #1 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #2 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 2 quarts Racing ATF + 1 quart D4

Any input? I'd perhaps like to get this figured out so that I can do the change when I install the cooler.

RD_04TL

Good question!! I'm planning on doing the same thing. Which one are you using? I'm thinking of ordering the same one Utah TSX use on his turbo build. This may a dumb question but how far in between should the refills be done?

krutou

IHC, I have a different issue and it'd be great if you could diagnose. I don't have flaring (AFAIK), but I get shuddering (forwards and backwards) under extremely light throttle at ~30 mph between second and third gear, @ operating temp. To my knowledge, there is no shuddering for anything beyond ultra light throttle.

I've been running 65% Racing with Redline Lightweight + D6 for ~8K miles (95% highway). It was a 4x3 (3qt Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle, 3qt Lightweight, 3qt Lightweight, 2qt Lightweight + 1qt D6).

To alleviate the shuddering, in the last 1K miles I did a 1x3 with 2qt Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle and 1qt D6. The shuddering stopped for a few hundred miles, but now its back. During the 1x3, the drained fluid was murky dark red. Although, when I did the original 4x3, I forgot to circulate the fluid through the radiator, so that may be where the dirty fluid is coming from.

I generally drive early morning and late nights (40-50F), and Red Line does have a fair bit of drag for the first 5 minutes. Could this be causing excessive wear to my tranny?

It also feels like I have more acceleration power in 5th gear w/ torque converter lock up, than I do downshifting into 4th. Could this be due to the low viscosity of LW/D6?

krutou

To add onto my previous post, this has only been happening in the last ~1200 miles.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Just a maintenance log.

I replaced the pressure switches last week and did a drain and refill with Type-F/Type-F/Lightweight.

Yesterday I just did a filter change, solenoid screen cleaning, replaced upper trans mount, and drain and refill with Type-F/Lightweight/Lightweight.
The middle solenoid screen was clogged (I held it up in light and you can't see ANY light through the screens), the others were clean.
The solenoid valve C on the side of the transmission was fully clogged also.

Driving around last week after the first drain/refill and pressure switch changed was the same as before.
It still flared as usual.

After I did the service yesterday, it shifted much better.

The amount of time it takes to engage into D or R is MUCH quicker and smoother, and the transmission doesn't clunk and violently jerk my whole car when going into reverse anymore.
I must note that even though I replaced the upper trans mount, my old one was still perfect. Some stress marks of course, but it was still solid. I would have kept using it if I didn't have to go through shipping my new one back.

Now this is what confuses me.

Redline fluid is supposed to have no FM, so more "bite". You're supposed to feel things, and have it NOT shift smoother to avoid wear.
My car shifting smoother, and no violent jerk when reversing, that just contradicts what redline is supposed to do.
Maybe everything inside the transmission is already done. Maybe I wasted over $300 this past week on transmission maintenance. Maybe.
Or maybe I saved the transmission. Only time will tell.

Anyway, I look forward to the final drain/refill next week with D4/Lightweight/Type-F to see what it does.

Due_Diligence

Here I'll sum up how you and I feel about our transmissions...hate them haha

polobunny

Interesting and happy for you that it shifts better. I don't know near enough about transmission & more specifically transmission fluids and the FMs to say how it should react. I need to do my switches & 3x3 drain and refill whenever it gets warmer outside too... Going the Redline F + D4 mixing route.

Where did you get the Redline by the way? Haven't looked, but I imagine you did and got decent prices if you went with it.