I hate cars

Are you sure the H&Rs are stiffer than aspec?

lowgrowl

I don't know the spring rates of each to compare. But I would think the spring would have to be stiffer because it's lowering the car more. Tell me. Which spring do you think would provide better handling ( less roll,squat,and dive)? Assuming they're both paired with a good shock. I think it's a easy call for the H&R's.

Slpr04UA6

^I wish H&R would provide there spring rates! I have them paired with Koni SP3's, and Love the ride quality, but have never been for a ride in the a-spec suspension. I am still trying diff rebound adjustments.

jchcmax

I have the H&R Sport with yellow Konis and A-Spec suspension. I can tell you that the H&R springs are firmer. My bad back likes the A Spec better.

06TLASM

I installed the A-spec suspension on my Base 5AT. After alignment done, I see that my cambers are all negative. The rear is more so than the front. How bad are your cambers for those with A-spec suspension installed on Base model either AT or MT?

jchcmax

Not too bad but it's there, the rear is more noticeable than the front. In efforts to prevent uneven tire wear in the rear, I have Ingalls rear camber kit installed. The alignment guy can adjust for you during alignment.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

my alignment numbers are within specs. no camber kit needed. the drop is minimal at less than an inch. the TL already starts out slightly in negative camber. my rear camber is at the max acceptable limit.

nfnsquared

Can you post the alignment sheet or give us the actual rear camber and rear toe numbers?

The 3G TL rear camber usually is near, at or even a little over the max negative spec (-1.5). Even if it gets as low as -1.9, I wouldn't freak out. No one has seen any problems from this negative camber that I know of.

But you really need to keep an eye on rear toe. If rear toe gets "out of spec" on our 3G TLs, the rear tires will start to wear badly on the inside edge.

nbp_08tls

I'm getting the 08W60 SEP 201B, what else I need on my 08 tls?

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you would need anything else, I ordered mine last Friday and it should be here this Friday. Everything should come assembled and all you should need to do is take out old and put in new then get a wheel alignment.

I have one question, I run wheel spacers during the summer and none during the winter months. How big of a role will my alignment change with and without spacers? Anything to worry about.

nfnsquared

Took the plunge and ordered my kit. Very disappointed in DCH Automotive shipping delays. I ordered the kit on 29 August and it won't even arrive at DCH until Monday, Sept 8 (5 business days just to get it to California). Then it'll be another 3-4 days before it gets here. DCH was the cheapest OTD for me, but I'm not too happy about the delays...

For those who have done the install, how much easier would the install be using a lift vice jack stands?

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I attempted to do the install last week. I had troubles getting the through bolt out, didn't bother with the pinch bolt yet, but I've read a few threads stating the heads shear off easily. I only used a jack and jack stand and had no problems.

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

I don't think it'll make a big difference. When I installed mines, it only took me about 5 hours using jacks and stands.

nfnsquared

Thanks guys!! That tells me what I need to know. I have access to the base lift, but would rather do it in my own garage unless there was a significant advantage in using a lift.

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

Just make sure you have a pry bar or something similar. You'll need it to move things to get the bolts in.

nfnsquared

Will this set work or should I get something larger/longer? (12", 17" and 25" pry bars).

Craftsman 3Pc Screwdriver Pry Bar Set: Get the Greatest Tools at Sears

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

That should be fine, I personally used the bar from my floor jack and then a metal bar that fits over to extend it.

nfnsquared

Thanks! At that price, I ordered 2 sets. Something like that will always come in handy.

I hate cars

If you jack the entire end of the car up off the ground instead of just one side you don't need pry bars. With just one side jacked up the swaybars are still trying to do their thing and you don't get full droop.

nfnsquared

^^^ Oh yeah, I'll have both sides on jack stands, so any sway bar compensation should be minimized.

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

When I did my install, I did the Rears first and then the Fronts. I still needed to use the pry bar to get the suspension out and in.

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

Anyone else have this issue. On the front passengers side I'm having a hell of a time getting the through bolt out. The bushing that the through bolt sits in is moving while I try to remove the through bolt, it restricts me to about an 1/8 of a turn. I've tried hammering it out as well. I can get all the stuff off on the drivers side.

nfnsquared

Ordered the 201B.

For the front dampers, I have individual part #'s of 08W60-SEP-2M10-Aa and 08W60-SEP-2M10-Ba. The part #'s are on a white label. The Aa has an "R" on the label and the Ba has an "L" in the label.

For the rear dampers, they both are labeled 08W60-SEP-2M10-Ca with an "R" on the label. WTF?

The ASPEC installation instructions (dated Dec 2003) clearly say that there is an L and R for both front and rear dampers. Maybe it doesn't make a difference for the rear dampers and the kit content have changed since 2003?

Can anyone who ordered a 201B kit verify if you received L and R dampers for the rear?

and FYI, I can't find any L or R markings on any of the dampers, other than the label...

nfnsquared

Well, looks like the kit ships with the same part# for both rear dampers. I don't know why the original instructions say that there is a L and R rear damper.

And the fact that the stock rear damper assembly only has one part # would seem to support the above. (There are separate part #'s for the L and R stock front damper assemblies).

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

^^my kit was the same way for the rear. I had two of the same "side" for the fronts. I can't recall if it was two L or two R. I called curry Acura... they didn't have much to say except it should all fit and you are the first one to ask us about it. I posted this in a thread somewhere when I was installing mine.

Yes, it all fits the same. Rears to the rear and the fronts fit the front. No issues. Drop was same for front, same for the rears.

nfnsquared

Yeah, not concerned about fit, more about loading/tuning. I can see why there might be a difference between L and R for the front, but not so much for the rear.

At any rate, I already had the car apart before I noticed the issue. I saw the "R" on the rear dampers and just assumed that meant "rear". But I'm convinced there is no difference for the rear. I am curious why the ASPEC installation instructions detailed a L and R for both front and rear while the parts diagrams only showed a difference for the front dammpers...

No drop in the rear so far (only 1 day) and 1/2" drop on left front, 3/8" drop of right front. Seems to slightly amplify bumps/road imperfections in the cabin, but not bad at all. Really haven't had time to run it through the paces, but so far, so good

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

Yea, my set was the same, R for both rears.

It'll probably take a week or so for them the settle.

What psi are your running on your tires?

For me, on my A-Specs, I have 38 F and 35 R, the factory sticker for 18s call for 39 F and 36 R

nfnsquared

35/32, don't have the ASPEC wheels.

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I had the same part numbers as you nfnsquared. Finally finished the front today I may be ordering the progress rsb next week.

nfnsquared

Good to know. Did you order from DHC or someone else?

I used DeathMetal's DIY and that made the whole process very easy. That, and a large pry bar. I added my notes to his DIY in case it will help you on the rears:

https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w.../#post15186547

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I ordered from acurapartswarehouse decent shipping, probably waited a week. I did the rears about two weeks ago. Had trouble with the fronts due to a siezed bushing on the forks but it finally broke loose last night.
I guess nor progress rsb for me, been reading lots of issues of people snapping welds on the rear sub frame.

nfnsquared

Ah, then that pretty much confirms that there is no longer a "L" and "R" for the rear dampers. I still wonder why the ASPEC installation instructions specified a "L" and "R" for the rear dampers? What changed (if anything)?

Also interesting to note is that the installation instructions for the RSX ASPEC dampers does not mention a "L" and "R" for the rear dampers.

Oh well, not a big deal. Very pleased with the improved handling. Wish I had done this years ago...