Sandals

iTrader: (2)

Well I am not sure if this goes in performance or suspension but, whatever.

I was looking at the RV6 strut bar and wondering if it is more rigid than stock, because as you can see in the photo (from golfjwr install) that is is not nearly as large and much much thinner.



And this is the link to RV6 Performance, does it really only cost $15 for the bar?
http://www.r-.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=4081977

05AcTL

iTrader: (15)

the powder coating is only $15

Sandals

iTrader: (2)

so how much is the bar, i can't find it on the website.

Sandals

iTrader: (2)

Never mind I found it in black market. But is it better than stock or is it more for the visual aspect.

05AcTL

iTrader: (15)

both

I hate cars

You're not going to feel a difference. Going from no brace to a brace you may feel a difference. Going from a brace to a slightly stiffer brace, you're not going to feel a difference. You would have to assume the stock brace is flexing too much as is. Also, think of the direction the shock towers try and flex. The majority of it is toward one another and away from one another. You already have a metal bar in between them in stock form. How much is a stiffer metal bar going to help?

Personally I would prefer the larger tubular bar with the load spread out over a smaller solid bar.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

point blank richie's bar is adjustable strut friendly and looks better

I hate cars

True. But none of those points has anything to do with performance. The biggest advantage of that bar is if you have a shock setup that won't clear the stock bar. In that case Richie's bar is a great buy. If the TL was engineered to have the brace, I wouldn't be one of the people removing the stock one just to have remotely adjustable shocks without something like Richie's bar to replace it with.

D's Up

If you already have a rear sway-bar than buying a front strut bar would be pointless, wouldn't it? Wouldn't it be canceling out the effect of the RSB?

I hate cars

A "strut bar" is a frame brace. A sway bar is a suspension component. Two very different things.

A front swaybar in addition to a large rear swaybar will compliment each other. I'm running a 24mm rear and a solid 28mm front. They work very well together.

Adding just a front swaybar to a FWD car will add more understeer.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

+1, i did my homework!

Yonkers914

iTrader: (1)

I bought it for the looks and the ability to clear the my future shock setup. I think its worth it.

skd2k1

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that a hinge-less strut bar was better?? Someone needs to offer a solid version of the stock strut bar.

I hate cars

That's assuming the stock bar flexes too much. I have a feeling it doesn't. It's mostly compression and stretching in which the stock bar is very rigid. For the little torsional movement, making it solid will increase rigidity but it will increase weight much more. The strength to weight ratio gain would be terrible. Maybe a thicker wall diameter would be a solution.

DimwitRj

iTrader: (2)

How about Heeltoe's strut tower bar?

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

I have the RV6 bar. It's awesome!

It's definitely more rigid than stock, and it allows you to use the edfc if you need it

I hate cars

The question is, how do you know it's more rigid than stock? There's a lot to be said for large diameter hollow tubing. It can be very rigid pound for pound.

skd2k1

iTrader: (1)

Good point...if it ain't broke don't fix it, right? I used to own an e36 M3 and the god of strut tower bars was the M-tech bar because it was hinge-less which means no flex...well less anyhow. So when I noticed the stock bar in the tl I was very impressed.

...and the rv6 bar has hinges.

Xiomaro

iTrader: (5)

well all i know is that taking a turn at a really... "nice" speed, doesn't feel like the front end wants to float as much (if u know what i mean) I drive my car fairly hard almost all the time and after i dropped that thing in it was an immediate difference

akertulis

whats the size of the stock front brace?

jnc2000

I'd like to see some actual testing with the OEM bar vs the aftermarket solutions... Testing with data and facts, not assumptions and but feelers.

jptl04

iTrader: (1)

if you plan on getting Tein SS shocks and want to install the EDFC with top mount motors get the RV6 bar, with the OEM bar its impossible. if not keep the oem bar. you wont feel a difference

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this back from the dead.

I'm doing the Progress RSB and Type-S FSB here in a couple of weeks. And I noticed the type-s front strut bar is a different part number then the base.

Is it solid compared to the bases hollow like the fsb is? If it is, is it an upgrade? Or is the weight not worth it? Etc. Basically, I want to practically max out my suspension, per say, and was curious if this was worth the $45 and 3 minute install time...

2004 - #14 - 74180-SEP-A01


2008 Type-S - #13 - 74180-SEP-A10

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^it's the same thing. don't waste your money.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Yea I was looking at it and figured the difference in part numbers is the apparent difference in mounting points on the bar itself. So...ok...thanks.

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

When I installed Tein SS coilovers on my 06 6-speed manual, I never intended on getting the EDFC. But adding the 24mm Progress RSB with the Tein SS lowered 1.7 inches front and rear, with Yoko S-Drive 245/35/19" tires made a HUGE DIFFERENCE It made my 06 TL handle better then any FWD car I have owned. Never considered the RV6 strut bar. Didn't think it was needed.

TWiSDiT

iTrader: (4)

My version of the rv6 strut bar :


w/ Tein coilovers..

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Do you think doing that would affect rigidity in the bar? Or does it not really even matter and it's a moot point?

I'd love to do that for quick strut access. Same with the rear shelf.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^it won't affect it at all. lot's of people do that with their stock bars to gain access to the damper knobs.

TWiSDiT

iTrader: (4)

I remember heading IHC's post about this and he said it was fine. The bar itself is very sturdy and thick. Did this last summer and so far so good, still hold strong

Yeah, im still trying to figure out how to do easy access to the rear without removing the seats

3g-s

thinking about one of those after i drill out my stock one....

350

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone with Koni's done the drilled out stock mod? Planning on doing this, I figure worst case somebody will sell a stock bar cheap, or just coin up for the RV6 bar.

I hate cars

I used a 1/2" bit to drill the stock bar out and had to finish it with a unibit. I chickened out and made the hole large enough to stick a custom tool through but not the knob that comes with the shocks. I'm sure it would be fine to make it large enough for the adjustment knob. Getting the hole in the right spot is important because it's going to take a much larger hole if you get it off just a little. That's another reason I didn't go full size with the factory knob, I was off a little when I drilled the hole.

I would be very surprised if even a 3/4" hole makes any difference in rigidity.

Slpr04UA6

^IHC--any ideas/photos of this custom tool? I have a short factory koni adjustment knob for the rear, but they don't make a longer one. By this I mean longer than the supplied knob that come with the Koni's. Thnks

350

iTrader: (4)

From the looks of it you could cut off almost the whole bump part and it would still be strong enough. I don't care about how it looks under the hood as it's just a DD that will get filthy, already have all the covers removed and extra wires running around. I'll have to raid my uncles garage to see if I can find a really large step drill bit and put the bar on his drill press.

brianch

I just cut it with an angle grinder. Cut a square out.

I am considering this bar instead.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline...roductid=64861

Apparently solid bar? No hinges either. Its welded.

silvrbreez

This thread was a good find. I'm considering options now for my ISC N1 coilovers and being able to access the front knobs without having to remove the bar each time.

EM2typeflex

There's not a bar available that also as well bolts to the firewall?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^why would you want one?

as stated in this thread; we dont think the stock bar flexes much.
so, replacing it with something else isnt going to do a whole lot.

EM2typeflex

over at the BMW forum, they say that even though the bar doesn't flex, the actual shock towers on the car do, and that's why they say unless there's a 3 point strut bar that bolts to the firewall as well, the regular 2 point strut bars aren't that good.