A-107: DIY-Seafoam on 3rd gen TL ('06 5AT specifically)
06-16-2009, 08:09 PM
#281
Instructor
I don't know why anyone would waste their time finding or buying new hose. You can take the TB vacuum hose off the from the brake booster end (not the TB end) and let it suck slowly directly from the can. Do not pour, just tilt the can until it starts sucking it in.
Also, I've seen a couple people say they let their engine choke down. THIS IS NOT SAFE. This can cause your engine to hydrolock possibly resulting in a bent rod. So this is why you do it slowly.
I personally do not feel it necessary to do this if your car has less than 30k on it. Using Seafoam more frequently than every 10-20k miles is OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE. The gains (if any) will not pay for itself, and hell, you could screw something up (like the hydrolock issue for one).
I did it for the first time and my '05 TL has 92K miles. I got a little smoke, but didn't notice significant gains. Am I glad I did it, sure.
PS I used Seafoam on a '00 3.8V6 Camaro w/ 130k for the first time and saw BIG improvements.
Last edited by hleapha; 06-16-2009 at 08:13 PM. Reason: typo
06-16-2009, 08:37 PM
#282
05 TL 6mt
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Just got done seafoaming the TL, but did not see too much of the "smoke screen". There was a bit of smoke at the beginning after I added the can of seafoam in the gas tank and some deep creep into the throttle body, but nothing to the highway or during the drive on the highway. I was on 3rd gear and at 4k rpm with occasional OWT to 5k. Am I missing something?
06-16-2009, 10:10 PM
#283
I did it for the first time a month and a half ago...
used deep creep...I found it dispenses it too slowly that way...my hand was hot and my fingers were going numb holding down the nozzle...took me like 25 min. to empty the can.
This time i used the clear tube and a cup. Cut the time down by half, although I did choke the engine. Hydrolocking the motor would require hydro, which as we all know is water. No such thing will happen from having the motor cut off.
I did oil, fuel AND intake and driving badly per process (meaning I don't NORMALLY drive around at 4000 for ten minutes straight and then punch it repeatedly) and having the car sitting idle while I detailed the inside (it was soo hot on Sat. in S.Florida) for like an hour, I STILL managed to get over 20mpg that tank. I normally used to end up with a little less than 18 MPG. We'll see over time, but basically, if I improve by 2 to 4 mpg...the 9 bucks for the can.
I have 41K miles and initially saw oodles of smoke for the first block or two BOTH times I did this.
used deep creep...I found it dispenses it too slowly that way...my hand was hot and my fingers were going numb holding down the nozzle...took me like 25 min. to empty the can.
This time i used the clear tube and a cup. Cut the time down by half, although I did choke the engine. Hydrolocking the motor would require hydro, which as we all know is water. No such thing will happen from having the motor cut off.
I did oil, fuel AND intake and driving badly per process (meaning I don't NORMALLY drive around at 4000 for ten minutes straight and then punch it repeatedly) and having the car sitting idle while I detailed the inside (it was soo hot on Sat. in S.Florida) for like an hour, I STILL managed to get over 20mpg that tank. I normally used to end up with a little less than 18 MPG. We'll see over time, but basically, if I improve by 2 to 4 mpg...the 9 bucks for the can.
I have 41K miles and initially saw oodles of smoke for the first block or two BOTH times I did this.
06-17-2009, 12:19 AM
#284
the first page of directions are the ones to follow here
www.seafoamsales.com has more info and ways to do it
why did you let it sit running at idle? thats not going to push anything out!
Once you have done the after drive- Just drive normal over the next week with the gas tank dosed and it will keep cleaning
Warming up the engine and exhaust first is critical- then adding seafoam- then the percolate time for it to liquify years of oil glazing and carbon buildup- then the hot fot drive to blow out that crud!--
smoke is a result of the oils in seafoam reacting to HEAT in the exhaust and carbon crud blowout
Seafoam suggest 1st timers repeat gas and vac method in a month then good for year/15k miles
Thats not being AR- thats keeping the engine working its best- gas is 3 bucks and headed back to 4 again~
www.seafoamsales.com has more info and ways to do it
why did you let it sit running at idle? thats not going to push anything out!
Once you have done the after drive- Just drive normal over the next week with the gas tank dosed and it will keep cleaning
Warming up the engine and exhaust first is critical- then adding seafoam- then the percolate time for it to liquify years of oil glazing and carbon buildup- then the hot fot drive to blow out that crud!--
smoke is a result of the oils in seafoam reacting to HEAT in the exhaust and carbon crud blowout
Seafoam suggest 1st timers repeat gas and vac method in a month then good for year/15k miles
Thats not being AR- thats keeping the engine working its best- gas is 3 bucks and headed back to 4 again~
06-17-2009, 12:21 AM
#285
only seafoam applied to the intake vac port or thru the TB will cause smoke
Gas tank wont make anything you can see- its working on the injectors and valves-pistons on a slower ongoing basis than the blast you get thru the intake
plus intake wont get injectors
Dont forget to clean the TB plate!!! both sides
Gas tank wont make anything you can see- its working on the injectors and valves-pistons on a slower ongoing basis than the blast you get thru the intake
plus intake wont get injectors
Dont forget to clean the TB plate!!! both sides
06-17-2009, 12:25 AM
#286
on the oil- do that right before you are going to change oil and filter-
If fairly clean engine- idle 10 minutes or if dirty drive 30 minutes- give the stuff its needed time to work
If really dirty engine or first time and want to do extra good job,
install a new filter- add 1.5 oz per qt of oil and drive up to 100 miles
The new filter will be able to catch all the crud- an older one may be nearly full then you add seafaom- poof the bypass valve opens and unfiltered oil with loose crud is flowing
If fairly clean engine- idle 10 minutes or if dirty drive 30 minutes- give the stuff its needed time to work
If really dirty engine or first time and want to do extra good job,
install a new filter- add 1.5 oz per qt of oil and drive up to 100 miles
The new filter will be able to catch all the crud- an older one may be nearly full then you add seafaom- poof the bypass valve opens and unfiltered oil with loose crud is flowing
06-17-2009, 11:25 AM
#287
You know what I added to my list during my Seafoam extravaganza? Maybe a good idea, maybe not....
I cleaned my PCV valve. I took it out...and let it sit in the can of seafoam. A full can is filled enough to let the PVC valve's top hang on the top of the can and just soak the valve portion of it for about 20 min. Then I got a shop rag and wiped it down and used my compressor to blow out any crud in there.
Good idea? 01tl4tl, I'm sure you can chime in since you seem to know a lot about the benefits of this product.
PS...not even sure I needed to do this, but I had read a thread about the location of the PCV valve and since I had the engine cover off anyway...I figured I'd nail it all together.
I cleaned my PCV valve. I took it out...and let it sit in the can of seafoam. A full can is filled enough to let the PVC valve's top hang on the top of the can and just soak the valve portion of it for about 20 min. Then I got a shop rag and wiped it down and used my compressor to blow out any crud in there.
Good idea? 01tl4tl, I'm sure you can chime in since you seem to know a lot about the benefits of this product.
PS...not even sure I needed to do this, but I had read a thread about the location of the PCV valve and since I had the engine cover off anyway...I figured I'd nail it all together.
Last edited by rockstar143; 06-17-2009 at 11:28 AM.
06-17-2009, 12:24 PM
#288
Instructor
Saying it can't happen is irresponsible.
06-17-2009, 01:21 PM
#289
Ok. Let's say it's generally unlikely for it to cause a bent rod based on the amount of uncompressable liquid that's been introduced. Plus. There HAS to be another term for it because I'm pretty positive hydro refers sprecifically to water.
I personally definitely don't claim to be an expert here. i just think it highly unlikely. And although seafoam is not as combustible as gasoline, it still combusts, right? At least that was my understanding.
I personally definitely don't claim to be an expert here. i just think it highly unlikely. And although seafoam is not as combustible as gasoline, it still combusts, right? At least that was my understanding.
06-17-2009, 03:00 PM
#290
Instructor
Ok. Let's say it's generally unlikely for it to cause a bent rod based on the amount of uncompressable liquid that's been introduced. Plus. There HAS to be another term for it because I'm pretty positive hydro refers sprecifically to water.
I personally definitely don't claim to be an expert here. i just think it highly unlikely. And although seafoam is not as combustible as gasoline, it still combusts, right? At least that was my understanding.
I personally definitely don't claim to be an expert here. i just think it highly unlikely. And although seafoam is not as combustible as gasoline, it still combusts, right? At least that was my understanding.
Respectfully, would you believe it if it was called "Seafoam Lock"? The term was coined because it most commonly results from water being sucked in through the throttle body. Gasoline and seafoam are both combustible, but in large amounts it is not going to burn up with a spark. Like when lighting a bucket of gas on fire, it doesn't explode. It burns completely up when in vapor form. The vacuum causes cavitation in the liquid in small amounts making it fully combustible.
I still think it's ok to do this every often, but do so with caution. Also, when the car starts running "chokey" after you unhook the valve, those pistons are shaking around in the cylinder wall. That just doesn't seem healthy to me. I definitly don't think ridding a few microns of carbon buildup are worth a scored up cylinder wall. I mean, I know those TL's are still running pretty smooth.
06-17-2009, 08:29 PM
#291
Ok. Based on what you wrote about I will have to rescind and bow to your greater knowledge.
Gotta know when you're beat and you obviously know more about this than I do. I was using logic based on limited knowledge. Guess I'll keep that in mind for the future applications of this stuff.
I will say that upon first application, I used the deep creep method and the car NEVER shut off cause it was so little at a time...mind you it took over 20 min of me spraying the can into the vac hose. SO maybe that's a safer method?
Gotta know when you're beat and you obviously know more about this than I do. I was using logic based on limited knowledge. Guess I'll keep that in mind for the future applications of this stuff.
I will say that upon first application, I used the deep creep method and the car NEVER shut off cause it was so little at a time...mind you it took over 20 min of me spraying the can into the vac hose. SO maybe that's a safer method?
06-17-2009, 10:28 PM
#292
Instructor
Basically, that was a long, draw out explanation on why you don't drown your engine. Sippy sippin' the stuff is the way to go. I think if one could suck slower, they should. Honestly, I didn't notice a huge difference in my TL, but my gf's '00 Camaro was transformed. She even noticed a huge difference.
It makes you feel good when your girlfriend calls you up to tell you, "Its time to get in my new fast ride!". Thats when you know it did something good!
It makes you feel good when your girlfriend calls you up to tell you, "Its time to get in my new fast ride!". Thats when you know it did something good!
06-20-2009, 12:37 AM
#293
That's what they told us to do though...
Their instructions tell you to choke the engine until it dies. I'm guessing it's so that there will be more seafoam inside your engine for a longer time while it dissolves the junk.
I'm thinking that they wouldn't tell us to make the engine die if there was something bad about doing it. Could be wrong though.
I'm thinking that they wouldn't tell us to make the engine die if there was something bad about doing it. Could be wrong though.
06-20-2009, 12:39 AM
#294
There's no clearance for shaking in there...
I'd think there'd be a lot more "shaking" up near redline. The engine oil is there to protect your cylinder walls. I wouldn't worry about damaging the cylinder walls.
06-20-2009, 03:42 AM
#295
what is going on here! we had a good diy 8 pages ago.. now this?
go read the info at www.seafoamsales.com
If anything, we have been conservative in its application!
there is a 30 minute soak method you can do after fogging to a stall IF you want-
there is a 2500 rpm and fast flow method
there is our method -- 10-15 minutes application time is plenty- then 15 minutes cook time- then drive to burn out the loosened goo
Now they make a 3 foot long straw to get way inside the intake manifold and spray into the runners and all, then wait 30 minutes for it to `liquify` the carbon buildup, start engine - heavy smoke- drive
It IS combustible- you can even use it as emergency starting fluid for a car if needed!
It does need gas mixed with it to burn fully - car wont run on 90% seafoam, but wont bend a rod or anything from stalling the engine- no big deal at all
Seafoam even has a method where you stall the engine 3-4 times intentionally, let cook then drive- -
The engine shake when you remove the main vac port hose is simply the engine having a big vac leak- put your thumb over it a second and it stabilizes
Its NOT shaking the pistons!!! Its not hurting anything for the time its being worked on
DO hook the hose and clamp back before driving--that would run bad~
Its easy- pays you back fast- and prevents possible damages inside that we dont even think about...carbon buildup on piston could contact a valve,,,buildup raises compression ratio...
go read the info at www.seafoamsales.com
If anything, we have been conservative in its application!
there is a 30 minute soak method you can do after fogging to a stall IF you want-
there is a 2500 rpm and fast flow method
there is our method -- 10-15 minutes application time is plenty- then 15 minutes cook time- then drive to burn out the loosened goo
Now they make a 3 foot long straw to get way inside the intake manifold and spray into the runners and all, then wait 30 minutes for it to `liquify` the carbon buildup, start engine - heavy smoke- drive
It IS combustible- you can even use it as emergency starting fluid for a car if needed!
It does need gas mixed with it to burn fully - car wont run on 90% seafoam, but wont bend a rod or anything from stalling the engine- no big deal at all
Seafoam even has a method where you stall the engine 3-4 times intentionally, let cook then drive- -
The engine shake when you remove the main vac port hose is simply the engine having a big vac leak- put your thumb over it a second and it stabilizes
Its NOT shaking the pistons!!! Its not hurting anything for the time its being worked on
DO hook the hose and clamp back before driving--that would run bad~
Its easy- pays you back fast- and prevents possible damages inside that we dont even think about...carbon buildup on piston could contact a valve,,,buildup raises compression ratio...
06-20-2009, 03:48 AM
#296
hydrolock would mean water- like a head gasket blown and shooting water into the cylinder- the water doesnt compress the same as the gas/air mix, doesnt matter about non combustion at that point- its taking up too much room in a confined space-
with rod bearings not far away and directly impacted by the compression/torque the engine produces
Compression is suddenly raised to obscene levels and Bang it blows up or simply refuses to turn- thats usually more than one cylinder got water in it to stop an engine solid
with rod bearings not far away and directly impacted by the compression/torque the engine produces
Compression is suddenly raised to obscene levels and Bang it blows up or simply refuses to turn- thats usually more than one cylinder got water in it to stop an engine solid
06-20-2009, 03:53 AM
#298
rockstar- thats fine to clean the pcv with seafoam- its an excellent parts cleaner, lubricant- water displacer,,read the deep creep can for many more uses
clean the TB plate with carb cleaner or deep creep
all the vapors get sent to it and oil it up, the deep creep lubes the pivot hinges for the throttle air plate, so its a good idea to use there
clean the TB plate with carb cleaner or deep creep
all the vapors get sent to it and oil it up, the deep creep lubes the pivot hinges for the throttle air plate, so its a good idea to use there
06-20-2009, 11:45 AM
#300
Instructor
Just seafoamed for the first time. I have an 05 with 103k miles. Thanks to all in this thread for the great information. It was EXTREMELY easy to do. However, I was a bit disappointed in the results, mainly because I didn't get much smoke at all.
I followed the directions to a T. The only difference was that I probably had an extra gallon in my tank above 1/4 as I was trying to get it at a 1/4 and overshot when filling up. Other than that, I put 1/2 can in tank, 1/2 through vacuum line which took about 12 minutes. Let it sit for 15 minutes. It started up and idled pretty normally after 10 seconds or so. I drover normally for about 10 minutes and got one minor puff of smoke at the very beginning. After that, I did 3rd at 4k for 10 minutes and then 10-15 WOT 10-50mph runs with no smoke at all.
I figured with 103k miles, I would be smoking up the place. However, the car does seem to run a bit smoother. For 103k miles, my car runs really well. I already get 30-31 mpg at 75mph and 33-34 at 65mph. In town, I get low 20s and usually average around 26. I'll see how it runs over the next few days, but overall it was easy to do and definitely didn't hurt anything.
I followed the directions to a T. The only difference was that I probably had an extra gallon in my tank above 1/4 as I was trying to get it at a 1/4 and overshot when filling up. Other than that, I put 1/2 can in tank, 1/2 through vacuum line which took about 12 minutes. Let it sit for 15 minutes. It started up and idled pretty normally after 10 seconds or so. I drover normally for about 10 minutes and got one minor puff of smoke at the very beginning. After that, I did 3rd at 4k for 10 minutes and then 10-15 WOT 10-50mph runs with no smoke at all.
I figured with 103k miles, I would be smoking up the place. However, the car does seem to run a bit smoother. For 103k miles, my car runs really well. I already get 30-31 mpg at 75mph and 33-34 at 65mph. In town, I get low 20s and usually average around 26. I'll see how it runs over the next few days, but overall it was easy to do and definitely didn't hurt anything.
06-20-2009, 12:52 PM
#301
it would work even better if you followed the complete directions
2 oz per gallon of gas is cleaning dose--how does 5 oz in a 1/4 tank thats going to get refilled soon do that?--it doesnt...thats barely `maitenance` 5000 mile dose
its way better to throw a 16 oz can in 1/2 tank- so it gets several gallons of cleaner dosed gas thru before you refill, which dilutes the mix
LESS THAN 3/4 oz per gal is not effective according to seafoam site
The can directions suck- follow ziner experience and read foams site for tips
Warm up drive before helps it liquify the crud.
smoke is simply the oil that is seafoam (its 3 different types of oils to clean lube and make it run) reacting to HEAT in the exhaust.
Thats what makes smoke- I can get some during application- that means I am getting enough product thru to be working, and more on the drives first minutes
Reading the foam site gives you a lot of good info and trick ways--I need the 3 foot straw now~
This is one of the easiest DIYs ever-
remove that rubber intake snout and turn key to ON to open the TB plate in a self test and clean the backside of it- it has to be clean!!!!
Must wipe up crud runoff too
1st timers repeat in a month- this time using the good method,,, and rock on
2 oz per gallon of gas is cleaning dose--how does 5 oz in a 1/4 tank thats going to get refilled soon do that?--it doesnt...thats barely `maitenance` 5000 mile dose
its way better to throw a 16 oz can in 1/2 tank- so it gets several gallons of cleaner dosed gas thru before you refill, which dilutes the mix
LESS THAN 3/4 oz per gal is not effective according to seafoam site
The can directions suck- follow ziner experience and read foams site for tips
Warm up drive before helps it liquify the crud.
smoke is simply the oil that is seafoam (its 3 different types of oils to clean lube and make it run) reacting to HEAT in the exhaust.
Thats what makes smoke- I can get some during application- that means I am getting enough product thru to be working, and more on the drives first minutes
Reading the foam site gives you a lot of good info and trick ways--I need the 3 foot straw now~
This is one of the easiest DIYs ever-
remove that rubber intake snout and turn key to ON to open the TB plate in a self test and clean the backside of it- it has to be clean!!!!
Must wipe up crud runoff too
1st timers repeat in a month- this time using the good method,,, and rock on
06-20-2009, 01:00 PM
#302
a good dose in the gas will continue to work over the next week- cleaning all the fuel injectors- intake valves and piston tops
Cannot say enough about what it gets out on an oil change!
had no idea of the crud buildup in my well maintained TL- shocking amounts of crud found in a brand new oil filter,, -foamed and driven 150 miles- change oil and filter and cut open the removed filter to inspect-wow~~
Then I decided to use it on my honda 2 wheeler- with amazing results of higher idle speed and better downshifts- the synchro gears work much smoother--the bike trans and clutch share the engine oil... so it got everything clean with immediate results.
Then I read the owner book about carbon buildup on the pistons being such a danger,,
I will be doing foam in the gas, and now and then thru the carbs to keep it running clean
Hows that for old- carbs!!
Cannot say enough about what it gets out on an oil change!
had no idea of the crud buildup in my well maintained TL- shocking amounts of crud found in a brand new oil filter,, -foamed and driven 150 miles- change oil and filter and cut open the removed filter to inspect-wow~~
Then I decided to use it on my honda 2 wheeler- with amazing results of higher idle speed and better downshifts- the synchro gears work much smoother--the bike trans and clutch share the engine oil... so it got everything clean with immediate results.
Then I read the owner book about carbon buildup on the pistons being such a danger,,
I will be doing foam in the gas, and now and then thru the carbs to keep it running clean
Hows that for old- carbs!!
06-20-2009, 10:19 PM
#303
Instructor
it would work even better if you followed the complete directions
2 oz per gallon of gas is cleaning dose--how does 5 oz in a 1/4 tank thats going to get refilled soon do that?--it doesnt...thats barely `maitenance` 5000 mile dose
its way better to throw a 16 oz can in 1/2 tank- so it gets several gallons of cleaner dosed gas thru before you refill, which dilutes the mix
LESS THAN 3/4 oz per gal is not effective according to seafoam site
The can directions suck- follow ziner experience and read foams site for tips
2 oz per gallon of gas is cleaning dose--how does 5 oz in a 1/4 tank thats going to get refilled soon do that?--it doesnt...thats barely `maitenance` 5000 mile dose
its way better to throw a 16 oz can in 1/2 tank- so it gets several gallons of cleaner dosed gas thru before you refill, which dilutes the mix
LESS THAN 3/4 oz per gal is not effective according to seafoam site
The can directions suck- follow ziner experience and read foams site for tips
06-20-2009, 10:47 PM
#304
I let the car sit for about 30 to 40 min and got a good amount of smoke, but only down the block, then it wasn't visible anymore. I only have 41K.
PS...the smoke comes ONLY from the application to the intake...the gas tank and oil application of seafoam doesn't give you smoke.
PS...the smoke comes ONLY from the application to the intake...the gas tank and oil application of seafoam doesn't give you smoke.
06-21-2009, 10:02 AM
#305
Instructor
I let the car sit for about 30 to 40 min and got a good amount of smoke, but only down the block, then it wasn't visible anymore. I only have 41K.
PS...the smoke comes ONLY from the application to the intake...the gas tank and oil application of seafoam doesn't give you smoke.
PS...the smoke comes ONLY from the application to the intake...the gas tank and oil application of seafoam doesn't give you smoke.
06-21-2009, 12:50 PM
#306
once again- most of the smoke is the result of seafoam residue hitting the HOT catalytic convertor--oil and heat make smoke!
If the engine has been properly warmed you will get smoke halfway thru the adding to the intake
No smoke?- no your engine wasnt super clean- the application wasnt done right
The problem with 1/4 tank and 8 oz. is you dont run it down to empty-only a few gallons go thru treated before the dilution gets screwed up by adding gas
Less than 3/4 oz to gallon is ineffective
Many find it easy to have 1/2 tank and add full 16 ounce can- the longer application time will improve results too..more cleaner running thru the system
If the engine has been properly warmed you will get smoke halfway thru the adding to the intake
No smoke?- no your engine wasnt super clean- the application wasnt done right
The problem with 1/4 tank and 8 oz. is you dont run it down to empty-only a few gallons go thru treated before the dilution gets screwed up by adding gas
Less than 3/4 oz to gallon is ineffective
Many find it easy to have 1/2 tank and add full 16 ounce can- the longer application time will improve results too..more cleaner running thru the system
06-21-2009, 03:01 PM
#307
Instructor
once again- most of the smoke is the result of seafoam residue hitting the HOT catalytic convertor--oil and heat make smoke!
If the engine has been properly warmed you will get smoke halfway thru the adding to the intake
No smoke?- no your engine wasnt super clean- the application wasnt done right
The problem with 1/4 tank and 8 oz. is you dont run it down to empty-only a few gallons go thru treated before the dilution gets screwed up by adding gas
Less than 3/4 oz to gallon is ineffective
Many find it easy to have 1/2 tank and add full 16 ounce can- the longer application time will improve results too..more cleaner running thru the system
If the engine has been properly warmed you will get smoke halfway thru the adding to the intake
No smoke?- no your engine wasnt super clean- the application wasnt done right
The problem with 1/4 tank and 8 oz. is you dont run it down to empty-only a few gallons go thru treated before the dilution gets screwed up by adding gas
Less than 3/4 oz to gallon is ineffective
Many find it easy to have 1/2 tank and add full 16 ounce can- the longer application time will improve results too..more cleaner running thru the system
I'm about to drive across the country and back next week. Should I try and do this again before hand or just wait until I get back which will be 3k miles later?
06-21-2009, 07:22 PM
#308
do the manifold and gas tank methods again BEFORE the trip- it will pay you back in mileage
spray the TB plate clean too
Or use another can in half tank gas at first leg of trip- so it gets a few hours of solid cleaning time, not running errands type driving
You used the main vac port right on top of the intake/tb connection?
spray the TB plate clean too
Or use another can in half tank gas at first leg of trip- so it gets a few hours of solid cleaning time, not running errands type driving
You used the main vac port right on top of the intake/tb connection?
06-22-2009, 04:22 PM
#309
Instructor
do the manifold and gas tank methods again BEFORE the trip- it will pay you back in mileage
spray the TB plate clean too
Or use another can in half tank gas at first leg of trip- so it gets a few hours of solid cleaning time, not running errands type driving
You used the main vac port right on top of the intake/tb connection?
spray the TB plate clean too
Or use another can in half tank gas at first leg of trip- so it gets a few hours of solid cleaning time, not running errands type driving
You used the main vac port right on top of the intake/tb connection?
06-23-2009, 02:56 PM
#313
Ok so since I am due for an oil change I think I will go ahead and do this today or tomorrow.. if it works well in my car I am going to do this in my fiance's gs300.. her car has almost 125,000 miles on it!!! WHOA we drive her car alot!
06-23-2009, 03:10 PM
#314
seafoam carries a money back if not satisfied guarantee
06-23-2009, 03:18 PM
#315
Oh yeah...keep the miles off yours! Yeah dude...I'm seeing about 2 to 3 mpg improvement overall. Pretty good stuff...and much better throttle response.
Satisfaction is hard to quantify and is very subjective...so it's easy to make those claims!
Satisfaction is hard to quantify and is very subjective...so it's easy to make those claims!
07-30-2009, 09:26 AM
#316
Did this on my sisters toyota matrix that had 114k miles on it. there was a HUGE difference. her car was idling at like 2k rpms and the engine was loud as hell. after i did the seafoam it idles at 1k and the engine was alot quieter and smoother.
going to do the TL before i do the next oil change.
going to do the TL before i do the next oil change.
09-04-2009, 12:04 PM
#317
Cruisin'
Join Date: Aug 2009
Age: 53
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Seafoam Virgin @ 220k
Got a 99 TL (220k) & 01 MDX (108k). Thinking bout seafoamin both. I just want to make sure about how much gas is suppose to be in them. 1/4 or full tank? & I have had dealer to maint on both, but not for a long time, does it work even better if u add more than whats recommended &/or do over whole process 2x's. Someone said to make sure to have the oil changed after..True or False? Thanks guys luv the info!!
09-04-2009, 07:00 PM
#320
2 ounce seafoam per gallon of gas- thats about 1 can to 1/2 tank of gas
more wont help and is bad
repeat in 1 month/1500 miles at 2oz per gal--then good for a year
intake manifold- 1 can thru main vac port that feeds all 6 cylinders
repeat in 1 month/1500 for first timers then good for a year
oil- add before oil change- if high miles-dirty engine,,
replace filter-- then add seafoam to oil and drive 30-50 miles/minutes solid- let the stuff work! then change oil and filter
read www.seafoamsales.com for more tech info and ways to improve technique~
more wont help and is bad
repeat in 1 month/1500 miles at 2oz per gal--then good for a year
intake manifold- 1 can thru main vac port that feeds all 6 cylinders
repeat in 1 month/1500 for first timers then good for a year
oil- add before oil change- if high miles-dirty engine,,
replace filter-- then add seafoam to oil and drive 30-50 miles/minutes solid- let the stuff work! then change oil and filter
read www.seafoamsales.com for more tech info and ways to improve technique~