Kronos89

First of all, i thank all of you who help answer questions with our cars, this is a great place to learn and be informed!!

Recently, when i drive my car for over an hour,(engine is at full temperature.) then turn it off and try to turn it back on, it decides to stall and rough idle. My temp gauge doesn't go up it stay below the middle. I often have to rev it for a few seconds or drive like 40 feet for it to go back to normal. I am not an expert on these cars, but could it be the engine coolant temperature sensor or crankshaft position sensor?This does not happen after every restart. Cold starts seem to be just fine. Any suggestions on where to begin?

01tl4tl

what do you mean -at full temp--guage redlined?
then car wont restart--uhhh you have a baked engine

normal temp is 1-2 lines below half- after a few minutes warmup
and stays at that same point all the time, be it 20 minutes or 5 hours drive-
climbing mountains, ac on, high outside temp, low outside temp...guage stays at whichever line your eye/view level says,,1-2 below half..all the time

Our cooling fan (driver side) sensor often fails--fan wont run when needed
and will run several minutes after engine shutdown (another clue it failing)

01tl4tl

car year and miles will help us too, 105/timing belt- water pump done?
CPS is a rare problem

Kronos89

The car has 40k now. and i meant to say at regular operating temperature , below the half mark. timing belt,coolant was changed 10k ago, car runs fine,this happens after continuous short trips.. on and off few times

Stoianoff31

What octane fuel do you typically use and what gas station do you fill up? Bad gas can cause these problems or small air bubbles in the fuel line. Is your CEL on? My first guess is bad gas, buy some fuel injector cleaner and octane booster, run it near empty and refuel.

Kronos89

i don't have check engine lights on, and i don't use one consistent gas station. i fill up whichever is closer, typically sunoco, shell, or bp.. i use nothing less than 91 or 93

Stoianoff31

run some fuel injector cleaner before you do anything then

jo3lo22

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem .... :-/

ChaiLatte

I have the same problem, I'm an amateur but I was thinking the MAF sensor? Would the EGR valve have anything to do with the problem?

Kronos89

Yea i am going to try that, i will be trying seafoaming in a few weeks, after come back from vacation, for now the TL will be put away

01tl4tl

clogged egr system will cause strange problems
If you havnt done that DIY intake manifold cleaning yet- start there

KatabaticSaint

I have same problem worse in the cold, I suspect the idle air control valve.

Kronos89

My problem was worse in the summer, because the car got hotter..

01tl4tl

IACV does get dirty and most service/clean it and the TB when intake manifold off for egr port cleaning

typically iacv dirty will make engine rev to 1500 and drop.. rev and drop--but anything is possible

Definetly get to a parts store for a free battery/charging system test!
Lots of short trips put the hurt on batt and not enough time to recharge on short drives

victus1

I have the same problem. It doesn't happen all the time so it's hard to diagnose. When this happens I sometimes notice a smell of what may be unburned fuel.
Could it be a coil pack that isn't firing the spark plug? I haven't had any problems while driving so I don't know if a coil pack would fire and not fire under certain situations.

I already changed all plugs and did the EGR, IAC and TB clean 3 months ago.

usna81dap

My daughter experienced the same thing with her 1999 3.2TL. She recently had the EGR cleaned at the Acura dealership so that shouldn't be the problem. She took it to a shop that's closer to her home and they say she needs to replace the crankshaft position sensor ($360) and clean the throttle body, replace air intake tube ($81). Is this reasonable?

usna81dap

Guess I should also say they want $150 for the CPS.

Tosh

An occasional rough or no start (as if it's out of gas) sounds like a main relay acting up:

Everything there is to know about your Honda/Acura main relay:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr....html#blueline
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...mainrelay.html

01tl4tl

Is the intake tube- the piece from the top of air filter box to the TB= Throttle Body
have a hole or tear somewhere? that needs to be a sealed system - no air leaks
Has the engine backfired ? that would cause a blowout of the intake tube and indicate real problems !!

Very uncommon for crank sensor to fail , a connector may corrode or be damaged during other work

Was the car running the same before the dealer did the egr clean? how was it running before it went in compared to what symptoms now?

they really should have cleaned the TB while it was off the car with the intake manifold for egr clean- speak to service MANAGER about why that wasn't done

Find out HOW they did the cleaning, just ram a wire brush thru the top without removing from engine?!, or correctly: follow shop manual and remove manifold to access all parts and clean
the TB cleaning consist of shooting carb cleaner on both sides of that round air plate inside, get the edges good too- can easily be done with it on the car by you, make sure the hinge pin it operates on is clean and moves freely

the other job on the TB cleaning is IACV idle air control- have to remove TB to get (some guys are able to do this with it in the car) on bottom of TB
it clogs and sludges and cant move/rotate to control idle,, Also, if it jumps from 1000 to 1500 and back repeatedly, its the iacv

did they give a code, example X045 that says crank sensor? I recall a member recently had probs with that and it was the actual connector had been damaged!! not the expensive part- just a quick fix!
How did they explain why it needs that sensor?
codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves and can be misleading

00TL-P3.2

Sounds like mine. Have you checked the coils?
Mine has the same symptoms. Rough/misfiring idle when starting with engine hot, throws multiple misfire codes when this happens.

If I let it cool down 45min-1hr, it's fine.

01tl4tl

00TL: see threads on FPR fuel pressure relay, and solder problems under the box, easily repaired DIY
that will cause hot start probs and First thing that comes to mind when these symptoms occur

3.2TLc

Hey 00TL-P3.2, while this problem can be caused by more than one thing, start with cleaning the TB intake, IAC valve and EGR passageways. Put some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank to help clean the injectors. Things to check for include a leaky/dirty injector, bad electrical connector/ground, old plugs/faulty coil, vac leak, etc.

Some have tried replacing the fuel pressure regulator, while others have replaced the PGM-FI main relay under the dash. It may be the process of elimination by trying the simpler stuff first and see if that helps. With over 100k in miles and 10+ years of wear and tear, it could be almost anything. Start with the basic cheaper stuff to ensure everything is functioning. Check the "DIY"s sticky for common problems and fixes.

00TL-P3.2

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
I changed the plugs recently, timing belt done around 210k (at 228k now), EGR passages cleaned in the last 5-10k.
May try to get some fuel system treatment through my dad & see if that helps & will look into the FPR & PGM-FI as well.

01tl4tl

did the stalling/start/drive issues begin after the egr cleaning??- its possible to install the top gasket upside down and cover an important port!
does the arm of the egr valve move?

did you use the correct NGK platinum or Iridium spark plugs- abut 8$ each?
that's really important- the car doesn't like other brands (denso ok but cost more!)

for fuel cleaner- many like Seafoam used thru gas tank so it gets everything clean
1 can to just under half tank is 2oz per gal fuel - the MAX allowed CLEANING DOSE
do that on 2 tanks and good for a year,
may want to run a can in half to full tank at midyear/7500 miles/at oil change as maintenance dose- even though Tier 1 quality gas is has more cleaners than other fuel, the Ethanol being added leaves behind more crud than the engineers 15 years ago thought about

00TL-P3.2

Can't recall, but I believe it's been happening since before cleaning the EGR ports.

Gasket reinstalled correctly, NGK plugs. Will have to check the EGR.

Anyone use BG products? My dad is a svc manager at a Chevrolet dealer, so I can probably get a BG service for nearly free.

01tl4tl

yes BG is another excellent product, use at MAX ALLOWED cleaning strength doseage
ck website for more info than on can - use as directed, same applies to seafoam- web or our matching directions over the cans info
(that info for those who dont have dad working with product on a daily basis)

bg has some great youtube- with borscope camera inside cylinder/engine running- as cleaner is run direct thru fuel rail- their 20-30 minute at idle `slow drip` method
the carbon on piston tops and intake valves softens and flakes away- very cool to watch and proof that it works, and is an important thing to do

carbon layers raise compression = not a good thing when unintended and unmetered~

01tl4tl

if the shop does the fuel rail method - you still need a can thru gas tank to get the fuel filter sock, and the fuel lines running to the rail and spider system of fuel delivery

don't forget the TB air plate needs carb cleaner or Deep Creep on both sides and edges, make sure to clean and lube the throttle return springs on outside too- lube throttle/cruise cables while in there!
must remove intake snorkel from air filter box to TB inlet
Make sure all clamps are on tight, but not over-tight!! when putting back together
(for diy'rs)

iirc bg shops do a can for fuel rail/vac method, a can for fuel tank and one for oil cleaning- do the oil cleaing just before next oil change
Shocking!! what color fluid and amount of crud come out--first time oil cleaners should install a new cheap filter prior to cleaning so it can hold all the crud that going to come its way, a filter with 7500 miles on it may go in to bypass mode and allow all the crud to circulate rather than be captured