Diver

I have a 6MT 2005 Acura TL with 56k miles on it. I went to a local dealership for oil service and got a big print out regarding what else needs to be done. They were not pushy regarding any of that and it was nice of them to provide the print outs so I can digest it at home.

Some of items are definitely junk and some seem to be somewhat valid, but I want to run it by collective forum wisdom.

Here is a list:

1. T-Belt replacement – overdue, drive belt is dry rotted - $1078.49
2. Brake flush: contaminated - $128.56
3. 60,000 miles service (“C” service) - $722.08
4. Compliance bushing: tearing - $689
5. 3rd CAT heat shields rotted /replace - $254

Timing belt.
I don’t buy into replacement timing belt every 7 years thing. However I’m a bit worried about this item since being wrong on it will cost a lot. My car is almost 10 years old, but was used pretty lightly and half of its life she was in a dry not heated garage. This is New England and we don’t have dry hot climate. Can my t-belt be really “dry rotted”? Is this something that I could visually confirm/check? I’m not sure if the price includes the entire “4” service with water pump and the rest of it, of it’s just timing belt replacement. I could check with the dealership on this.

Brake flush
Manual calls to have it done every 30k, so I’m due for it anyway. I will probably have it done somewhere else locally and save some $$.

“C” service
The “C” service seems to be their own invention and is basically B2 service + spark plugs, brake flush and auto transmission fluid change. I just had B2 done, brake flush is listed separately as item that needs to be done, so this is double counting. My car is MT, so no auto transmission fluid to change. The rest of the items listed under this service is basically fluff. So this one is out.

Compliance bushing: tearing
It doesn’t say if both sides (left/right) are affected, so I don’t know how many need to be replaced. From what I read here it seems that replacing the entire LCA is easier/better. Do these bushings tear only on lower control arms? There are 2 bushing on upper ones as well. So overall there are 8 bushings. The print out says I should have it done at some point soon otherwise there could be potential damage to subframe.

CAT heat shields rotted
Is this something that needs to be done? There is no rattle. Can I pose any risk to a car?

Thanks!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

im betting they didnt even take the timing belt covers off and are just scaring you into believing that its dry rotted.

also, just like you said, they made up the C service...

seems like they are out to take your money and not help you

bp_spets

I would do the brake fluid and the manual transmission fluid. Probably not at the dealer, but it would be good to do them. It also wouldn't hurt to do the spark plugs as well, although technically they shouldn't have to be replaced until 100k miles.

Compliance bushing tearing is pretty common.. But take a wheel off and try to take a look at the bushing yourself to determine how bad it is. If it looks like its almost torn out then they should be replaced, if its light tearing you can hold off on it. I doubt you would notice much of a ride handling difference.

3rd cat shields... Well if they are completely rotted out, then you could run the risk of catching any grass on fire if you park on dry grass a lot. But overall it shouldn't be a big risk to not do these.

The timing belt.. They could be talking about the serpentine belt as the drive belt. That's the belt that drives the power steering, air conditioning, etc. 60k miles and 10 years is probably right to replace that belt. As for the actual timing belt, 10 years on the original belt is getting up there.. and I would at least start budgeting for getting it replaced.

Diver

Acura recommends to change manual transmission fluid at service "3" or 60k if vehicle is used under a lot of stress. Which is not the case for my car, so I think I will wait for service "3". It would be different for auto transmission.

I will do that.

No danger of parking on the grass much. Even though I have 56k on the car, nowadays I put about 2k per year and my drives are from garage to another parking lot nearby.

You might be right. Here is the exact line from the print out:

"Timing belt replacement: Overdue for t-belt package /note drive belt rotted".

So it seems that they want to change the timing belt based on 7 year factor and as a side note they mention that drive belt rotted. It seems that serpentine belt is changed as part of timing belt package, but can it be done separately? And does it make sense to do it separately? I assume the consequences of it breaking are not as severe as timing belt and will result in towing/replacement of the serpentine belt?

BeattieWasHere

I also have a 2005 that has lived in New England it's whole life, however I have almost double the mileage on the clock at 90k. I bought my car about 3 months ago and had them do the Timing Belt as a condition of the sales since it was pretty close to that time anyway. I'm still running with the original serpentine belt which looks to be in good condition.. so I can't imagine the Timing Belt was any worse.

Brake flush.. regular maintenance stuff. I'm sure you could get away with not doing it.

C service.. I think you're right on.

Bushings.. Like I said, I have almost double to mileage and mine are fine.

Heat shield.. there is no reason to replace that. they just have to document what they find.

A buddy of mind has a garage in Cambridge. If you want a second opinion I know he would be happy to throw the car up on a lift and show you the condition of everything in question. Your car has super low miles and I find it hard to believe all that work needs to be done.

NBP04TL4ME

From your thread title it sounds like you are savy enough not to bite on all the recommended maintenance/repairs. But in case you are interested in a similar scenario - https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/came-oil-change-got-%245-000-quote-916923/

As to your question - Yes, the drive belt is different than the timing belt and the "consequesces of it breaking are not as severe as timing belt..........."

Diver

NBP04TL4ME,

This is the thread that inspired my thread's title! I searched the forum for the info today and came across the thread you're referring to and thought - that sounds familiar

96SC4

I have the same exact mileage as you, but a 2007

I too, wonder/worry about the timing belt sometimes...
If I were to be keeping the car for the long haul, I'd definitely be doing it soon due to age. That way I wouldn't stress about it....

But I believe I'll be unloading my TL in 2 years with way under 100k.
I'll prob leave it for the next guy

If I were you, I'd start with timing belt and brake fluid flush

Diver

BeattieWasHere,

Thanks for your offer, very kind of you. I think I will take a look at the bushings and serpentine belt this weekend, and maybe take some pictures and double check with the folks here. At least with the serpentine belt, visual inspection should not involve more then removal of the plastic engine cover. Not like the timing belt...

Diver

the brake fluid flush will be done, no questions about it

bp_spets

The serpentine belt can be done separately from the timing belt. I have not done it on this car yet, but in general it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to change. I'm sure there's a DIY on it somewhere on the forum.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Brake fluid should be flushed every two years, at least every third. I'm amazed at the number of people who blow this off. Glycol-ether brake fluid is hygroscopic and will eventually cause rust/scale build up in the lines and calipers over the years. I'd hate to buy a ten year old car that was never flushed.

(BTW, OP, my dealership only charges $69.95 for a flush)

I'd buy a drive belt at Autozone or wherever for $20, do the brake flush, buy plugs for $60 and do them myself (they're good for 105k, but $60 is cheap to ensure 100% performance, plus with all the loose plug incidents popping up on here, it's worth doing them) and then change the oil and do the GM Syncromesh fluid for the 6MT.

Timing belt is fine at 56k. Compliance bushings are likely only partially torn and new ones will just tear again anyway. And I'd just tear off the rusted cat heat shields. You don't need them.

nfnsquared

Brake fluid change at every 3 years per the manual. I would have this done.

There is no time limit on the timing belt. It's when the MID shows a "4". There are plenty of 04 TLs still running on the original TB, so I wouldn't worry about it.

You can inspect the serpentine(drive) belt yourself to see if it really is rotted/cracking. If it is, it's cheap and an easy DIY job.

Compliance bushings. Even if they are torn, unless you're having ride/steering issues, it's not a big deal.

The iridium plugs have proved many times over that they last well into the 100K mile range. I wouldn't change them if you don't have any engine performance issues.

MT fluid: not a big deal. If it were me, I'd swap in some GM synchromesh fluid (I also read that the new Honda MT fluid is very similar but can't confirm that. This was in Frosty's build thread and it was Paul in Virginia making this claim).

Diver

For break fluid flush, if I bring it to places like Mieneke or Midas, am I better off bring my own "DOT 3 Honda heavy duty break fluid" as strongly suggested by Acura, or is it ok to let them replace with whatever they deem appropriate?

If I should BYO brake fluid, any recommendation on brand/amount?

Thanks.

p.s. I took a peek at the drive belt and it looked fine to me. I will try to take some pics today and post them tomorrow.

Diver

is there any indication when the tearing went too far and the bushings have to be replaced ASAP? beside problems with ride/steering? or there is no such thing and it's indeed not a big deal?

thanks!

xxx_busa

take care of it and it will be good to you !

Tehvine

Honestly... most people don't even know what a timing belt is and continue to drive their cars without trouble. If it's my own car, I change them just in case. Cheap insurance when you can do it yourself. If it's a non-interference motor (not the TL) then you can just drive them until they snap.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I personally wouldn't take it to one of those chain shops, but that's just me. They should, however know what to use. You'd probably be better off establishing a relationship with an independent shop with a good reputation in your area. A Honda dealership would probably flush the fluid for less than Acura as well.

Compliance bushings won't ever become an emergent issue. Not like a broken tie rod or axle.

Diver

Here are the promised picture of the drive belt. And the brake fluid as well. I don't really know what dry rot looks like, but the belt looked/felt solid to me. On on picture you can see a small fraying and that's all I can see. But then I'm not an expert. Can someone weigh in on the state of my drive belt and if it's indeed requires an urgent replacement?

Thanks!

nfnsquared

The belt looks fine to me based on those pictures (never seen a brown belt before).

Just for grins, I'd take it back into the dealer and ask the service manager to show you where the dry rot is. Then sit back and watch him panic

But I'd definitely get the brake fluid replaced. Regardless of reservoir appearance, you are well overdue for that.

Diver

maybe that yellow-brown color is the rot? i could send the pics to the dealership and ask to point out the rot. maybe i will ask next time i'm there, i think that would be easier.

i will replace the brake fluid this weekend. i thought i'd find it being black though, but it wasn't.

thanks!

nfnsquared

Have the shop show you the fluid that they flushed out. I guessing it will look a lot different than the fluid you see in the reservoir...

Franchise1124

OP, there are a few good independent Honda/Acura specialists in the Boston area if you're not into DIY but would like to save a little coin. Hondaa King is the first that comes to mind if you'd like to check them out.

NBP04TL4ME

I've never seen a brown belt either. In the third picture, it looks like it might be fraying a little bit on the edges? This is something you could probably tackle yourself. If you find an indie shop, it shouldn't cost all that much to replace it. The pulley on the left in the fourth picture looks copper in color as well. Perhaps it's dirt or rust being pushed into the belt. Might be worth the piece of mind to get it replaced?? Hard to say, it could last another 50K with no issues.
Brake fluid will become contaminated with water and other things. Get it replaced.

Diver

I used to go to Acura of Boston and it seems that Honda King is right next to it. But I moved south of Boston (Mansfield) so it's a bit of a hike for me. I went to Prime Acura in Walpole last time.

Diver

i searched around a bit regarding brown drive belt and it seems that some people have them turn that color as they age. The fraying is very minimal and integrally the belt feels very solid. I think I will keep an eye on it and maybe have it replaced some time in the future.

For a replacement, is buying a new belt enough or is there a kit that would include other things like pullies, etc.?

Diver

i did a bit more research on dry rot. here is an exert from this page.


Notice that the drive belt on the picture from that page has a brownish backing that resembles mine and it's not just plain black rubber.



So I'm arriving at conclusion that my drive belt should be good for quite a while. I'll just keep my eye on it for the symptoms described above.

BillMFD3

My drive belt on an 05 manual looked exactly the same brown color. I ended up replacing it long after, only when it started to squeel on damp mornings. Its a 10 minute job.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Mine was turning that color, but not quite that brown when I changed it around 80k.

Diver

the pictures were taken in the garage at night with a 500 watt halogen HID work light. which might've distorted or amplified the colors on the pictures.

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