Supercharged 2010 TL-SH-AWD 6-speed
#321
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Dropping a smaller (thicker), more effiecient radiator in place of the stock, you could probably find a way to put a a decent intercooler in the chin, and drop the intake temps 20-30 degrees cooler than a heated up air/water unit. This is normally a noticeable gain in power, and weight savings - but you're also going to have to do all the plumbing to get the air out of the blower and into the T/B. If they relocate the throttle body onto the blower or cooler housing with this kit - might not even be an option.
If you boost your otherwise un-upgraded car, here are some (experienced) expectations:
1. It will feel like a rocket in comparison.
2. You're going to beat the eyeballs out of it more frequently than you realize.
3. You're going to find the weakest link in your system, probably in less than 5,000 miles. If you're lucky, it's an axle or a C/V joint. If you're unlucky, it's the connecting rods, valvetrain, fuel system, or transmission/differential. On the 6 speed especially; if your clutch holds, you're going to break something launching it.
4. Comptech running gear is generally pretty top-notch. These Eaton blowers are pretty much maintenance free (change the oil every 100k in them or something). If it works like the rest of their J boost setups do - it does basically makes changing the spark plugs impossible and serpentine belt a complete PITA. I've always wondered why they didn't just go whipple style and build an integral upper intake manifold out of a blower instead of running a driveshaft across the top of the front cylinder head.
5. Tires. Buy stock in them.
6. Insurance. Better be in good standing with the DMV and circuit Judges; you might have your county's finest sending you there with enough frequency that they'll know your name.
That said; if it's your daily driver, and you're going to boost it; Spend your first $3000 on a late 90s civic so you have something to drive when you break things.
#322
I feel the need...
#323
Racer
Any of these S/C kits they've released in the past use an air/water exchanger to cool the air. Obviously, cycling 200 degree water through the pre-charge pipe isn't ideal, but it does help considerably over a direct feed.
Dropping a smaller (thicker), more effiecient radiator in place of the stock, you could probably find a way to put a a decent intercooler in the chin, and drop the intake temps 20-30 degrees cooler than a heated up air/water unit. This is normally a noticeable gain in power, and weight savings - but you're also going to have to do all the plumbing to get the air out of the blower and into the T/B. If they relocate the throttle body onto the blower or cooler housing with this kit - might not even be an option.
If you boost your otherwise un-upgraded car, here are some (experienced) expectations:
1. It will feel like a rocket in comparison.
2. You're going to beat the eyeballs out of it more frequently than you realize.
3. You're going to find the weakest link in your system, probably in less than 5,000 miles. If you're lucky, it's an axle or a C/V joint. If you're unlucky, it's the connecting rods, valvetrain, fuel system, or transmission/differential. On the 6 speed especially; if your clutch holds, you're going to break something launching it.
4. Comptech running gear is generally pretty top-notch. These Eaton blowers are pretty much maintenance free (change the oil every 100k in them or something). If it works like the rest of their J boost setups do - it does basically makes changing the spark plugs impossible and serpentine belt a complete PITA. I've always wondered why they didn't just go whipple style and build an integral upper intake manifold out of a blower instead of running a driveshaft across the top of the front cylinder head.
5. Tires. Buy stock in them.
6. Insurance. Better be in good standing with the DMV and circuit Judges; you might have your county's finest sending you there with enough frequency that they'll know your name.
That said; if it's your daily driver, and you're going to boost it; Spend your first $3000 on a late 90s civic so you have something to drive when you break things.
Dropping a smaller (thicker), more effiecient radiator in place of the stock, you could probably find a way to put a a decent intercooler in the chin, and drop the intake temps 20-30 degrees cooler than a heated up air/water unit. This is normally a noticeable gain in power, and weight savings - but you're also going to have to do all the plumbing to get the air out of the blower and into the T/B. If they relocate the throttle body onto the blower or cooler housing with this kit - might not even be an option.
If you boost your otherwise un-upgraded car, here are some (experienced) expectations:
1. It will feel like a rocket in comparison.
2. You're going to beat the eyeballs out of it more frequently than you realize.
3. You're going to find the weakest link in your system, probably in less than 5,000 miles. If you're lucky, it's an axle or a C/V joint. If you're unlucky, it's the connecting rods, valvetrain, fuel system, or transmission/differential. On the 6 speed especially; if your clutch holds, you're going to break something launching it.
4. Comptech running gear is generally pretty top-notch. These Eaton blowers are pretty much maintenance free (change the oil every 100k in them or something). If it works like the rest of their J boost setups do - it does basically makes changing the spark plugs impossible and serpentine belt a complete PITA. I've always wondered why they didn't just go whipple style and build an integral upper intake manifold out of a blower instead of running a driveshaft across the top of the front cylinder head.
5. Tires. Buy stock in them.
6. Insurance. Better be in good standing with the DMV and circuit Judges; you might have your county's finest sending you there with enough frequency that they'll know your name.
That said; if it's your daily driver, and you're going to boost it; Spend your first $3000 on a late 90s civic so you have something to drive when you break things.
#324
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Good advice indeed!
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jnc2000 (07-19-2011)
#333
Three Wheelin'
Couldn't make it down Monday -- We'll leave it at personal issues. (Don't worry I'll get back down ASAP) -- I have enough stuff I'm working on ATM.
The 12' WDP SH-AWD in the picture is Lynwood's.
Same unit you see here. It's the Twin Screw unit they've been working on for the Honda Ridgeline.
The 12' WDP SH-AWD in the picture is Lynwood's.
Same unit you see here. It's the Twin Screw unit they've been working on for the Honda Ridgeline.
#335
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
You can build the upper and lower intake manifold around the blower, either cast or billet. The ridgeline setup is more strap it on and let it rip. A model specific roots intake manifold would be an easy installation, require much less tooling after the initial creation of the manifold, and would easily be good for a 40-50 whp increase on the 3.7. If there's enough clearance, you could even have it blow through an intercooler sandwiched between the outlet and the intake.
#336
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Don't get me wrong - as far as efficiency goes, it's less than ideal for sure; but given the layout of the engine and the bay, it would just work.
If there were anywhere with clearance in the serpentine path for a Rotrex unit, I could see that being ideal as well, but I just don't know where they would put it. The Rotrex powerband (like any supercharger, but even moreso) matches the linear power of a high revving variable VTEC engine very well.
On the other hand, the precat removal would give an easy to match flange for the hot side of a pair of 12g mitsubishi turbos with a special hot side for the pre-cat manifold, and then could run the cold side out through seperate small intercoolers or a central air/water exchanger and come up into the throttle body, with a 90" neck added to point it down.
400whp with no problem; and it would spool at like 2800.
If there were anywhere with clearance in the serpentine path for a Rotrex unit, I could see that being ideal as well, but I just don't know where they would put it. The Rotrex powerband (like any supercharger, but even moreso) matches the linear power of a high revving variable VTEC engine very well.
On the other hand, the precat removal would give an easy to match flange for the hot side of a pair of 12g mitsubishi turbos with a special hot side for the pre-cat manifold, and then could run the cold side out through seperate small intercoolers or a central air/water exchanger and come up into the throttle body, with a 90" neck added to point it down.
400whp with no problem; and it would spool at like 2800.
#338
Racer
Seeing as how you would need to have a custom build of the parts for the turbo setup, I'm betting it's going to be more than 6k. Not that it wouldn't be cool to have a twin turbo TL...
#339
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Oh - to do a twin turbo setup, you could buy a set of those PCDs (if they ever come out...AHEM..AHEM), lop them in half, and weld a turbo in the middle of them easily enough. Tap the oilpan and run lines to the turbos - easy enough. creative plumbing to the the air to the throttle body - would take a little time, but not mission impossible; espeically with the factory airbox removed and all that room for a side mount intercooler.
Tuning it to run on boost - and figuring out what your fuel delivery needs are; that's the bit$h of it....and where the pro's need to load up a non-dyno friendly AWD car on the rollers and watch the A/F, ignition timing, fuel pressue, and oil pressure while putting it under load.
Mitsu 12g / 15g / 16g turbos are a dime a dozen - the ball bearing ones will cost you some loot - but normal sleeve bearing units - maybe $300 a piece in stellar new condition. $200 intercooler - $60 in oil lines and taps - $200 in stainless steel plumbing and couplers. $1000 for proper fuel pump and new injectors / plugs / and a piggy back FMU. Probably $1500 in dyno/fab/tune work, plus the cost of the PCDS (hey are those out yet...cough cough)
This effectively kills anything resembling dependability on your vehicle as well. It would be fun though....
Tuning it to run on boost - and figuring out what your fuel delivery needs are; that's the bit$h of it....and where the pro's need to load up a non-dyno friendly AWD car on the rollers and watch the A/F, ignition timing, fuel pressue, and oil pressure while putting it under load.
Mitsu 12g / 15g / 16g turbos are a dime a dozen - the ball bearing ones will cost you some loot - but normal sleeve bearing units - maybe $300 a piece in stellar new condition. $200 intercooler - $60 in oil lines and taps - $200 in stainless steel plumbing and couplers. $1000 for proper fuel pump and new injectors / plugs / and a piggy back FMU. Probably $1500 in dyno/fab/tune work, plus the cost of the PCDS (hey are those out yet...cough cough)
This effectively kills anything resembling dependability on your vehicle as well. It would be fun though....
#340
danggg.... that is pretty steep for some extra HP. Couldn't you just sell your TL and buy a slightly used Lexus IS-F which has 416 HP? I saw a used '09 for under $40K and it had 21K miles on it.... (of course I'ld never sell my TL!)
#342
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The challenge is not getting more power out of it than an IS-F.. Making it faster / quicker will be the chore. The IS-F stock is in the mid-12's.
*ahem*
Skip to 5:05
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMahk...eature=related
*ahem*
Skip to 5:05
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMahk...eature=related
Last edited by Majofo; 07-22-2011 at 04:26 PM.
#344
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The Lexus is 400+ at the crank.. at the rear its in the mid 3's. The turbo 3G guys are 400/500+ at the front.. from a roll.. they might win, from a dig... probably not. Not a big fan of roll races though.
#346
Drifting
"That was not a win, that was a demolition." LOL. Did they really believe the Jag had any chance against the GTR? What a butt-kicking! Cool video.
#347
this video keeps me wondering what acura could have done with the now scrapped nsx project although the car was rumored to be fitted with a V10 .... the tl's got almost the same engine size (3.7L) as the gtr (3.8L) and all wheel drive... all the ingredients are there...
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Acc-Rite (12-31-2013)
#351
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
CT kind of screwed the pooch with the 3G kit, and then has closed/re-opened/changed ownership since then. I'm surprised to see them working on anything new at this point - though not unhappy. Any of their products I've purchased have been top notch - but I'll not be shopping for a kit on the 3G, or the 4G till someones put 20k on one and hasn't nuked anything.
#353
COTM Coordinator
So where is the public information from the vendor rather than word of mouth from people who have heard of others saying that it works. Its like the vendor fell off the face of the earth and the only reason this thread is still alive is us bumping it for info.
#356
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
A TSX? Bah. Still not a good test of how torque vectoring AWD is going to do with the additional strain. I know the engine will handle it with proper fuel tuning; it's Honda axles and differentials (of which I snapped more than a few stock ones on a 320hp S2000) that I'm worried about.
#357
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: East side of the State
Posts: 38
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I just wondering what happen with the first blower that they put on the car?? It looks like a fully setup witht he pic that rob post in this thread. Then looks like plan change try to put the blower on top?? which will no space left for the hood.....so confusing.
#358
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Sorry I have not been around much. We have been very busy this summer between car meets and track days. We put over 7k miles on the car this summer with no problems. It drives just like a stock TL. I have taken out several people from A'zine in the car and everyone seems to love it. We just sent the car back down to CT-E so we can do some new stuff to it. (I will let you know more as I know) We are trying now to get the car in the Honda booth at SEMA.
I can answer any questions that you guys have.
I can answer any questions that you guys have.
Last edited by rob_acuraoflynnwood; 08-29-2011 at 05:38 PM.
#360
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter