Another Newbie Question! Should I do Tune Up and change suspension?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Another Newbie Question! Should I do Tune Up and change suspension?
Hello, it's me again.. the idot.
Alright so basically I am just wondering if I should do a tune up on my 2001 Acura CL Type S, it is automatic with 140k miles with original transmission (God Blessed)
The car drives just like new and absolutely nothing wrong with it.
I have never abused it and never go over 3k RPM.
I am just wondering if I should do a tune up (please specify as to what exactly i should change; coils, spark plugs, etc..)
Also, should I replace the suspension too? The car isn't running low the suspension looks fine.
I just want to maintain it very well that's why I am asking all these questions.
Thanks to all of you for helping me.
Should I just "Don't fix what isn't broken?"
Alright so basically I am just wondering if I should do a tune up on my 2001 Acura CL Type S, it is automatic with 140k miles with original transmission (God Blessed)
The car drives just like new and absolutely nothing wrong with it.
I have never abused it and never go over 3k RPM.
I am just wondering if I should do a tune up (please specify as to what exactly i should change; coils, spark plugs, etc..)
Also, should I replace the suspension too? The car isn't running low the suspension looks fine.
I just want to maintain it very well that's why I am asking all these questions.
Thanks to all of you for helping me.
Should I just "Don't fix what isn't broken?"
#2
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
Don't touch the suspension if it's working.. Once u do then you start replacing all sorts of shit and then you going to be in it for over a grand.
As for a tune up.... Intake Air filter and cabin air filters which are located behind the glove box in the car.
Get new spark plugs so your coil packs don't have to work so hard, this will extend the coilpack life. Get the brakes inspected, change all the fluids, engine oil, trans fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.
Makes sure the cars suspension is in fact ok. Get it on a hoist and get someone to hold the steering wheel the go to one tire and try turning it back and forth, up and down and if there is play u. We'd to find where it's moving and replace that ball joint.
By getting new fluid in there you are prolonging all of your components.
But cars nowadays don't actually get a tune up like the old days where u literally screwed with the carb and the timing which literally altered the entire car.
Today it's just part swapping for us young guns.... We got it easy
As for a tune up.... Intake Air filter and cabin air filters which are located behind the glove box in the car.
Get new spark plugs so your coil packs don't have to work so hard, this will extend the coilpack life. Get the brakes inspected, change all the fluids, engine oil, trans fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.
Makes sure the cars suspension is in fact ok. Get it on a hoist and get someone to hold the steering wheel the go to one tire and try turning it back and forth, up and down and if there is play u. We'd to find where it's moving and replace that ball joint.
By getting new fluid in there you are prolonging all of your components.
But cars nowadays don't actually get a tune up like the old days where u literally screwed with the carb and the timing which literally altered the entire car.
Today it's just part swapping for us young guns.... We got it easy
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YungMoola15 (06-18-2014)
#3
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
do you know what maintenance has been done in the past? how long have you had it?
You can easily pull a coil and take out a spark plug to see what condition they're in. I'd say keep up your oil and trans fluid changes, otherwise leave it be.
You can easily pull a coil and take out a spark plug to see what condition they're in. I'd say keep up your oil and trans fluid changes, otherwise leave it be.
#4
2003 CL
I would change the transmission fluid with the new ATF-DW1 (synthetic) & the filter. The service manual says to change after 120K & then 60K thereafter but given the finicky nature of our transmission, I would do it more often.
Here's the link: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/here-some-info-2g-cl-tl-transmission-atf-filter-change-solenoids-ect-739205/
Here's the link: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/here-some-info-2g-cl-tl-transmission-atf-filter-change-solenoids-ect-739205/
The following users liked this post:
YungMoola15 (06-18-2014)
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Don't touch the suspension if it's working.. Once u do then you start replacing all sorts of shit and then you going to be in it for over a grand.
As for a tune up.... Intake Air filter and cabin air filters which are located behind the glove box in the car.
Get new spark plugs so your coil packs don't have to work so hard, this will extend the coilpack life. Get the brakes inspected, change all the fluids, engine oil, trans fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.
Makes sure the cars suspension is in fact ok. Get it on a hoist and get someone to hold the steering wheel the go to one tire and try turning it back and forth, up and down and if there is play u. We'd to find where it's moving and replace that ball joint.
By getting new fluid in there you are prolonging all of your components.
But cars nowadays don't actually get a tune up like the old days where u literally screwed with the carb and the timing which literally altered the entire car.
Today it's just part swapping for us young guns.... We got it easy
As for a tune up.... Intake Air filter and cabin air filters which are located behind the glove box in the car.
Get new spark plugs so your coil packs don't have to work so hard, this will extend the coilpack life. Get the brakes inspected, change all the fluids, engine oil, trans fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.
Makes sure the cars suspension is in fact ok. Get it on a hoist and get someone to hold the steering wheel the go to one tire and try turning it back and forth, up and down and if there is play u. We'd to find where it's moving and replace that ball joint.
By getting new fluid in there you are prolonging all of your components.
But cars nowadays don't actually get a tune up like the old days where u literally screwed with the carb and the timing which literally altered the entire car.
Today it's just part swapping for us young guns.... We got it easy
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I would change the transmission fluid with the new ATF-DW1 (synthetic) & the filter. The service manual says to change after 120K & then 60K thereafter but given the finicky nature of our transmission, I would do it more often.
Here's the link: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739205
Here's the link: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739205
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you sir for responding. Yes I have had the car since 85k. I have had it for 4 years now. I bought it from the original owner from Carmax. Please look at the response I posted for Progression to see the maintenance work.
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#8
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
You seem to be on top of ur maintenance. U would just re on the side of changing the plugs every three years with normal iridiums. I prefer to use worse plugs and change them more often vs putting in a 120$ set of plugs and pray they are fine for 7 years... But that's solely my opinion lol.
Oh I will say one thing I did for my car was clean the erg port..
Look at the manifold and take the top center plate off. When u flip it over u will see channels in the roof of the plate. That is the erg passageways. They gum up from oil vapours drying and then eventually cause a cel cause the erg gets blocked.
Remover the plate and clean the shit outta those ports, you will likely be like me... Omfg when u turn it over. And then u can clean out the port by the neck in the manifold that goes directly to the erg valve itself. I cleaned it all out with sensor safe brake cleaner..
I have a company mdx from 02 and it had the identical erg blockage which I found and solved which is why I got proactive and did my car a few weeks later.... Cause it would have thrown a code by now no doubt.
Oh I will say one thing I did for my car was clean the erg port..
Look at the manifold and take the top center plate off. When u flip it over u will see channels in the roof of the plate. That is the erg passageways. They gum up from oil vapours drying and then eventually cause a cel cause the erg gets blocked.
Remover the plate and clean the shit outta those ports, you will likely be like me... Omfg when u turn it over. And then u can clean out the port by the neck in the manifold that goes directly to the erg valve itself. I cleaned it all out with sensor safe brake cleaner..
I have a company mdx from 02 and it had the identical erg blockage which I found and solved which is why I got proactive and did my car a few weeks later.... Cause it would have thrown a code by now no doubt.
#9
He too suggested trans oil be changed often like oil changes for prevention. Now, I believe this is the secret to your original trans.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Damn 3 transmissions?? That's expensive as F
#11
Every 10k seems a bit overboard to me and a waste of money I've done the 3x3 once on my original 14 year old trans and it's at 230k. Not suggesting you do that, but I think it's a luck of the draw with these things.
Have you checked your motor/transmission mounts?
Have you checked your motor/transmission mounts?
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
No I haven't checked the mounts.. How would I do it? Also I don't change all fluid just drain 3 and refill 3
#13
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