Started on some in home porting

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Old 07-08-2010, 12:41 PM
  #321  
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ahhh i gotta wait 10 days to be off trail smh
Old 07-08-2010, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DC3328
yup, only thing I needed was engine harness, ecu and gauge cluster. No cel's, but the vsa light will be on. According to fsttyms1 it requires a lot more than just the tb and ecu to make it work. I'm fine without it, just pull the bulb in the cluster out

also the IMRC will not work because it requires a separate module that you can find and try and make work, or get an rpm switch and try that. I left mine open like phee did and I have no complaints
So would you say its worth to spend the extra to have the imc working properly,or don't bother with it.And dump the imrc for weight savings and maybe some extra car money.

Last edited by richardparker; 07-08-2010 at 10:45 PM.
Old 07-09-2010, 12:34 AM
  #323  
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i never had it working so i dont know what im missing but i doubt its much. i wouldnt worry about it
Old 07-09-2010, 01:15 AM
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u lose about 35 hp down low if u keep it open. about 15 up high if its stuck closed
Old 07-09-2010, 01:35 AM
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seriously?
Old 07-09-2010, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by phee
u lose about 35 hp down low if u keep it open. about 15 up high if its stuck closed
Originally Posted by DC3328
seriously?
idk about those exact numbers, but yeah it can be quite dramatic though

an easier way to think of it, is that it is kinda like ANOTHER vtec kicking in
Old 07-09-2010, 11:28 AM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
^ Not sure if it was a four or six.

I hope I'm not jumping the gun here but I just located a complete type s motor local for $275.
Un sure of the milage but $275 how could I really go wrong,as long as the block is still good.
My clp motor is still fine,no problems.
If I can find a way to get it to my house it will be getting disasemble and built.

Does anyone know if I need a type s ecu or harness to run with no cel?
You dont need the wire harness or lower dash harness and if you want the imrc to work just use a rpm switch, its cheaper. The only difference between harnesses is an extra wire for the actuator, which does not matter anyways unless you get the module to control it. Also you dont even need a guage cluster. All you do need is engine ,ecu, and (rpm switch to control imrc) .
Old 07-09-2010, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
idk about those exact numbers, but yeah it can be quite dramatic though

an easier way to think of it, is that it is kinda like ANOTHER vtec kicking in
Ive always said we have 2 vtecs stock
Old 07-09-2010, 10:36 PM
  #329  
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Got the car back today.
And it looks great.
New bumper cover and now trunk is totally shaved.
I love having the mixxing ticket.
I have kept the mixxing ticket for about 2yrs now.
And now I can have the same color everytime.
pic's not the greatest,it was raining while I took them.

Old 10-13-2010, 08:12 PM
  #330  
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Here we go again.
Heads striped ,cleaned once and waiting till everything is fully dry then you know what time it is.
This is the start of my type-s engine build.

Last edited by richardparker; 10-13-2010 at 08:19 PM.
Old 10-13-2010, 09:10 PM
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sweet....
Old 10-13-2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by phee
u lose about 35 hp down low if u keep it open. about 15 up high if its stuck closed



Come on! You don't really believe that do you?

You really think the IMRC really has that kind of effect?


Parker, are thoes Type S heads that you are going to put on your CLP block?
Old 10-13-2010, 09:30 PM
  #333  
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I just bought a whole a2 motor that was in great shape and plan on blowing it out.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
Old 10-13-2010, 09:53 PM
  #334  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
I just bought a whole a2 motor that was in great shape and plan on blowing it out.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
What are you thinking with the compression ratio on the a2 motor. Leave it stock at I think 10.5 to 1? Or are you going to try and go up a bit? Also can you put up a pic of the combustion chamber?
Old 10-13-2010, 11:16 PM
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I'll get you a before in a few. And also after when that time comes.
These things are on the kitchen counter and the kitchen table but,it's to late do start on them.
Old 10-13-2010, 11:34 PM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
I'll get you a before in a few. And also after when that time comes.
These things are on the kitchen counter and the kitchen table but,it's to late do start on them.
Cool. I can't help but wonder what the wife thinks of the heads on the kitchen counters? LOL


What about the Comp ratio?
Old 10-14-2010, 01:52 AM
  #337  
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Here's the pic you wanted to see, and I decided this is where I'm going to start.
I will only polish the combustion chamber. I don't want to loose any compression,just don't know how much I'm looking for yet.
I still want to run nitrous too.
Old 10-14-2010, 07:16 AM
  #338  
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U should do like a 3 or 5 angle valve job also. Get some stiffer springs and retainers
Old 10-14-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight


Come on! You don't really believe that do you?

You really think the IMRC really has that kind of effect?


Parker, are thoes Type S heads that you are going to put on your CLP block?
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/03-tls-6-speed-dyno-99-ecu-740532/

Last edited by phee; 10-14-2010 at 09:33 AM.
Old 10-14-2010, 02:18 PM
  #340  
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Went over 2 of the combutions holes once in this pic.
Now I can see where the combustion camber flaws are.
I'm going to go back,blend a little better with the flaws and re-polish.
Then that area will be done for now.
Old 10-14-2010, 03:15 PM
  #341  
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are you getting any of this flow benched?

imo its pointless to be doing all this home porting if you are blindly removing material from the heads.

Last edited by e r y k; 10-14-2010 at 03:19 PM.
Old 10-14-2010, 04:08 PM
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I don't think its completely pointless but I do agree that its not fully effective as it would be with a flow bench
Old 10-14-2010, 04:47 PM
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when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.

I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.

I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
Old 10-14-2010, 05:13 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.

I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.

I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
Sounds like you have done some home work.

The reason I was asking about the comp ratio was because I was going to recomend to you look for anything that could cause the hot spot. Sharp angles, spurs, edges... Well you know, stuff like that.

Also have you thought about (if you raise the compression) putting in a better radiator and fans, with maybe a 160 degree thermostat, a cooler spark plug, maybe also some thermo gaskets (wich it looks like you already have)? Pretty much anything to help cool that incoming air to thwart off pre detonation.
Old 10-14-2010, 05:35 PM
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Good enough for me.
Old 10-14-2010, 09:04 PM
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Intake side of the first head almost done porting.
I'm not going to be polishing that side at all.
Maybe 150grit,or just enough to smooth in the port work but,thats it.
Exhaust side will only see polishing and header match.
I don't want to mess around with that side since I'm not going with bigger valves yet.
Old 10-15-2010, 12:10 AM
  #347  
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Intake side in the ruff.
Old 10-15-2010, 12:39 AM
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Looking good. You going to gasket match it?
Old 10-15-2010, 12:48 AM
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Thats side is gasket matched now.
I will be doing the exhaust side too.
Gasket matching the head.Then gasket matching the header before the engine goes in.
Old 10-15-2010, 07:50 AM
  #350  
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Cool

Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
TheGreatGathby yea man good point... basically you're saying smoother doesn't mean better.

Like a golf ball

All those little indents are there to create little pockets of turbulent air that basically spin around and around in each indentation. So... each indent has it's own bit of air moving in circles in it, this basically allows the rest of the air (the air pushing around the gold ball) to pass by the gold ball without touching the actual surface (because the air is passing over OTHER air). Creating less drag.. and therefore a further shot.

So technically smoother is not NECESSARILY better.

Daily Planet had a segment on this vinyl they stuck on a Porsche. the vinyl mimicked the physics of a golf ball whereby it too had these circular indentations which in turn.. created less drag due to the gold ball explanation.

They timed multiple runs with the car normal and with the vinyl applied and resulted in a 2-2.5 sec DECREASE in lap time.

Keep in mind the vinyl still weighed i'm sure like 10 pounds at least, and still it made the car faster.

I just thought I'd share that, because that shattered my perception of smoother = faster.

So maybe there is an exact science to maximizing the efficiency of the internals of a motor's hydraulics ?

So i'd have to say porting Yay.. polishing nay
so a bad paint job from maco is in order .... all that orange peel will give me the golf ball effect
Old 10-15-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker
when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.

I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.

I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
you are correct, but at the same time, removal of too much material will also cause pressure leaks / improper induction / poor heat distribution in the head assembly.

im not saying what youre doing is bad, but its a double edged sword. done right, it can be rewarding... done wrong, it could prove to be more detrimental to engine performance.
Old 10-15-2010, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by typeR
so a bad paint job from maco is in order .... all that orange peel will give me the golf ball effect
Mythbusters did a segment on this and yes its true, they saw a noticeable increase in fuel economy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nufXpDBELdQ

Like they say though, when done right.
Old 10-15-2010, 01:58 PM
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^ man wtf is that ,really ...
You need to take that bs some where else.
Save that S#@! for car talk thread.
Don't get offended but that crap needs to roll out
Old 10-15-2010, 03:24 PM
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and back on topic..
Old 10-15-2010, 06:10 PM
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Head is basically done.
My camera is not here right now so I'll put up some pics later tonight.
I also have to give the 2nd heads porting a break for now.

I just picked up another halo job,so thats going to have to come first.
Trying to dig up money for some valve train goodies.
Pics for that will be in my ccfl thread soon.Halo's are for a 2nd gen cl too.
Old 10-15-2010, 10:20 PM
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here the intake side done to 150

Exhaust done to 320

combustion chamber

I think I'm just about done with this one.
Clean the gasket area's and some paint and that's it.
Old 10-17-2010, 04:07 PM
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That heads is finished,waiting for paint to dry.
Finshed product soon.
Old 10-17-2010, 04:12 PM
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Make a build thread
Old 10-17-2010, 04:17 PM
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I think this would be it ,no.
post #330

Pic will be up soon,Another reason for you to hate.
Old 10-17-2010, 10:40 PM
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Anyone know where to get a complete engine gasket/ring/bearing kit for the cheapest but,with quality stuff ?
Also where can I find nice valves,not stock ?


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