IndycarFaster

Hi everyone, just a quick question for break in period. I picked up my new TSX 2 weeks ago. It has sat in the garage until I get my clear bra put on this Saturday. Is this a bad thing the new car is sitting this long? I know during first 1,000 you should take it easy on a car (still looking for the break in recommendation in the manual), but I feel like I should be driving it to seat the rings, etc... since it is brand new. But figure it is ok to sit safe til I protect the paint.

But at the same time, I want to protect the paint until I get that Xpel bra put on it. A minor dilemma, I thought I could use some input from the group. Thanks in advance. I do plan to let it warm up a bit and drive easy before I hit the road to take it for the clear bra install, in case any one thinks I am just going to drive it hard from the get go.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

generally, with newer cars you dont really have to break them in.

I had a 2010 Challenger SRT in my possession for a month. I WOT'd everywhere for the first 1000 miles.
the car still drives fine today, and isnt going to blow up any time soon.

if the car is sitting, then it should be fine. as dealers have BUCKET loads of cars that sit for a while until they are sold.
be careful starting it up and NOT driving it!
moisture can accumulate in the exhaust.
be sure to drive it on the freeway to evaporate any moisture build up!

LC2ner

It would have sat at the dealers...so I wouldn't worry too much.

KillerG

Maybe im wrong, but drive that shit like you stole it.

ceb, what do you think?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^ i agree.

anton1974

heh. I'm taking it easy on mine.

Real easy until the first oil change. Prolly stretch out her legs a bit after that.

Then after the 2nd oil change, I'll get up near the red line.

I just don't drive as hard as I used to when I was younger. YMMV.

KillerG

got my tsx when i was 19 = instant racecar

robpp

iTrader: (2)

i say 'break them in fast, they go fast'. it all about heat cycles and making sure the vehicle is properly warmed up before doing anything.

i recommend a switch to mobil 1 or full synthetic of your choice, a new Honda filter, around the first 1K miles.

do not reset the message thing either. just chalk it up. and from then on follow the message thing.

anton1974

yeah, interesting comment. You're not the first person to recommend the synthetic oil to me. I'm unfamiliar with it.

I've been told to go one way or the other, and stick with it. Synthetic is sposed to last longer in between changes too.

I've still not seen any good explanation of how that maintenance odometer works. what's best? The computer, time, or mileage? Does that thing take time into account at all?

I also poked my head underneath my new TSX. There is some tacky-azz plastic skid plate under there, being held on with some tacky-azz plastic screws. I have a hard time seeing how that's gonna hold up long term. Ima haveta do all the oil changes myself if there is any kinda chance that plastic crap is gonna be around more than a few years.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you can throw all that plastic crap away.

thats what i've done to my TL.
a bare engine looks more manly >cue time the toolman taylor's grunt<
it also helps with heat soak. with the plastic panels removed, heat can escape faster!!

Oils have advanced to the point where you can switch back and forth between conventional dino oil and synthetic without any adverse effects.

the MID(on board computer) calculates on engine revs, start ups, and other factors.
it does not know the difference between dino and synthetic tho.

if you're driving all city, hitting vtec often, you'll see the MID oil life indicator decrease faster than if you would drive all high way, with RPM's at 2k.
you should change your oil when the MID hits >15% or after one year. which ever comes first.

I'm using Mobile 1 0w-40.
and I drive mostly city hitting vtec OFTEN.
the MID usually calls for 6,000 mile intervals with my driving conditions.

anton1974

if I'm not mistaken, I do believe the car calls for 0-20 oil.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Honda calls for a 0w-20 for CAFE reasons.(gas mileage)
you can use the conventional 5w-30 if you would like.

I'm using the 0w-40, only for the HTHS(High Temperature, High Sheer) rate.
it has a HTHS rate of 3.8% which is close to redline 5w-30 at 3.9 or 4.

be careful of the Mobile 1 EP's. they are geared more for gas mileage(which you cant even measure anyways)
and has a low HTHS rate of like 2.9

robpp

iTrader: (2)

as far as synthetic oil vs. conventional, do your own homework on that. there are a gabillion points to research that.

ALL OIL SOLD AT THE PARTS store has a spec. meet or exceed your makes spec and you are on your way./


i just did my first oil change at 1K miles on my 12 wagon. THere is a DIY post here that explains everything.

the plastic stuff UNDERNEATH the car should all stay there.
IMO its NOT optional. if you are careful it will last a while. the screws are metal if that matters. use a #3 screwdriver and they will last forever.

maybe under the hood they MIGHT have 2 or 3 unnecessary covers they are all there for more than just a look. with penny pinching what it is, if it wasnt needed it wont be there.


for a brand new car, under warranty, i would ONLY recommend you follow the makers recommendation in owners manual. thats 0w-20 for a new TSX.

all oil is made to a spec. find something that meets the spec and your warannty will be fine. go outside that.....who knows. I certainly dont want to find out with my 30K+ vehicle.


what you do in your 7 YO TSX is great for you but isn't for everyone. just saying/

anton1974

LOL. Clearly, I'm rather ignorant about this stuff. As what you just said sounds like jibberish to me.

So what's the best oil to use when long term engine ware is the chief concern? Good gas mileage is something that I happen to like as well. heh.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

as the chart states: 5w30, 5w20, 0w20 is all fine for the 2nd gen TSX.

AGAIN, HONDA WENT 0w-20 FOR GAS MILEAGE ONLY!
they had to adhere to CAFE regulations.


for Anton1974:
you can choose what ever oil, you would like.
a 5w-30, or a 0w-20.
they are the same.


LOL at Robbp for thinking an engine will blow after 30k miles using a different viscosity oil.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

and I mis-read about the plastic covers.
yes, the plastic skid plate UNDERNEATH the car should stay there.

I removed all the covers from above the engine bay.

anton1974

lol. I'm not sure that plastic crap is really needed. I was thinking that is was there for aerodynamic air flow management underneath the car. I'm inclined to keep it intact for as long as possible.

As for the other plastic crap covers over the engine, heh, those did not escape my notice either. I'm not impressed, lol.

PyroDave

the TSX calls for 0W-20, you can use 5W-20 if you'd like, as that is also considered OK, but do not move up to 5W-30, it is technically voiding your engine warranty if any engine problems somehow come up, Ceb will tell you all about that when he sees this. why would you want to use a thicker oil anyway?

the plastic on top of the engine seen when you pop your hood is for aesthetics, mine are not there any longer. the lower plastic part actually has metal in it as well, and is pretty durable. during the winter storm we had in oct, a branch fell and i couldn't swerve due to snow and cars, it broke off the clips on one of the sides, i taped it back up, and then when i did my last oil change, took it off and will put it back on soon. it is called the lower engine splash guard, and it helps protect from rocks and shit flying into your undercarriage, it should last years with no problem. mine broke simply due to shitty weather.

letting your car sit in the garage is fine for up to a few weeks. if its more than that, i'd atleast start her up once in a while and drive around the block a few times to get the gas/oil cycling.

most people recommend not doing your first oil change until the MID says to, or a year. theres a "special blend" designed to break in your engine. if you wanted to change at 3-5K i could understand. i think 1K is waay too early though. not hitting vtec until after the second oil change is a bit ridiculous though, that could be 15K miles following the MID. 10K if ya doing it early.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^ i enjoyed this post.
thanks Pyro.

nj2pa2nc

The breakin period was driving my then new tsx from the dealer in Pa to my home in Nc. I follow the maintenance minder and use regular or semi-syn oil. Runs excellent.

PyroDave

she even still has the original brakes!!! <3

IndycarFaster

Awesome responses guys! Wow love the debate and quick turn around time. I am going to stick with the 0W20 I think. As far as when to swap the 1st oil change, still debating. I would like to listen to the owners manual and surely will. However, it does make sense after break in and say 1,000-1,500 miles to get that oil out of there with all the metal going around, and putting in the good stuff to keep it clean.

I plan on going with the Mobil 1 0W-20 and a Purolator Pure One filter. Went with the Mobil 1 EP 10W-30 and Pure One filter for about 140k miles on my civic. Started changing the oil on that myself at 60k.

benben01

ceb must be on vacation LOL

mrstak

iTrader: (1)

you forgot about the original clutch as well

larryt1026

I also would like to know if the 1,000 miles oil change would be a good call. Or to just follow the maintanence minder.

PyroDave

i suggest following maintenance minder. most engines are "broken in" at the factory, as in they are literally just run for a while to get the o rings and such broken in on the valves

Acura_Dude

And that her car still looks brand new. If people took this kind of care with their cars, it'd make buying a used car so much easier. No worries.

mapleloaf

Regarding gas mileage and "break-in", you will see an improvement once the car has a few thousand miles on it. I have always noticed that with my new cars, and I have had a lot of them in the past 8 years, including 09, 10, and now 2012 Tech TSXa.

benben01

I am OCD and I always dump the oil at the 1,000 mark initially just to get what ever metal filings/debris out and follow the MID or my OCD which ever comes first