DBLOCK1226

I Just Ordered Some Ssautochrome Headers And A Aem Pulley Set For My Cls How Much Hp Do You Think I Will Gain After I Install Them Both?

CLS6SpeedNupe

do you have a intake?

brianlin87

iTrader: (1)

aem pulley set = 0 hp, so the HP you get from the headers is the HP you'll get.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah dump those Aem pullies. Waste of $.

DBLOCK1226

yea i already got aem intake installed.

DBLOCK1226

what about unorthodox pulleys so there no good either.

DBLOCK1226

so whats this i hear about people seeing these big gains from pulleys set like unorthodox.

brianlin87

iTrader: (1)

TCM 01 CL-S

True that, but since I am in a helpful mood, I am going to sum it up: the aem pulleys don't do jack, the UR pulleys do free up a nice amount of horsepower. One of my favorite mods.

and since I'm sure this question is going to come, our engines are internally balanced and no harm will come from using UR pulleys.

mystikk

The importance is not the brand, but the part itself. The UR crank pulley will get you the gains you want. Anything else is decoration.

nbennettksu

iTrader: (2)

dude headers and a pulley will add at least 125hp. You should put the stickers on the car too, they make your car glide thru the air smoother, less drag = even faster

2CLean

the decreased rotational mass might net you .5 - 1HP max, but AEM pulleys are definitely more for show than go. Return that shitz and get a UR crank pulley!!

MADMAN187

Dont mean to jack the thread, but is it worth getting the whole pully set or is the crank pulley enough to get you going?

nbennettksu

iTrader: (2)

you just see gains from the crank pulley

Techniques

only gain are the headers.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The crank pulley is whwere most of the HP is gained. The accessory pulleys will add about 1 HP each.

To the OP if you need the UR crank pulley PM me.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

You can also get a similar crank pulley on Ebay for $30 or so. It's the same thing. There's a few members running that 1.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

It's the same part and it is an aluminum crank pulley but it doesn't go through the same measures that UR takes. I highly doubt for $30 the company CNC machines the pulley and 0 gram balances it like UR does.

Batosai

Old saying..."you get what you pay for" apply here, no?

nbennettksu

iTrader: (2)

the $30 crank pulley is just fine. It is so light that it doesnt really need to be "cnc machined to 0 grams." Two weeks ago I drove from Atlanta to Orlando and then a week later back to Atlanta, about 900 miles of pretty intense continuous driving...no problems what-so-ever.

MADMAN187

Sounds pretty good.. nbennettksu, got a link?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

WOW. Are you serious? It is so light that it doesn't really need to be properly machined. Great argument.

You do get what you pay for. I personally and professionally would not take the chances of running that pulley on my car. However, it is your engine so it is up to you.

nbennettksu

iTrader: (2)

yea man, heres the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-02...spagenameZWDVW
son of a bee sting, thats the one that I got and this persons selling it for 75% cheaper than I got it for...

And yes, you're going to be fine with that. Its light/small, perfectly round, does what its supposed to, and never squeals. He just wants you to buy the $190 one from him so he drops his one-liner, "you get what you pay for". I think its funny how the Bomz crank pulley comes with the UR pulley installation instructions

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

First off, you're not supposed to post ebay links. Secondly, he doesn't have to buy it from me. I'm not the only dealer for UR. But I wouldn't risk the lack of R&D, lack of QC, and lack of proper machining in that $30 pulley. That is why I wrote:

You do get what you pay for. I personally and professionally would not take the chances of running that pulley on my car. However, it is your engine so it is up to you.

It is funny to you that it comes with UR pulley installations? Maybe that is b/c they went on UR's website and printed out their instructions and put it in the box. And when you think about it what does that mean? It means this is just another company that is not innovative and that does not bring anything to the aftermarket other than cheap, poorly made copies of someone else's product. And when that product does damage to your engine you will turn around and blame aftermarket crank pulleys b/c the instant savings of $125 was worth more to you than your multi thousand dollar engine.

pits200

To date, I haven't heard a single good piece of advice from this guy. The only thing he is good for is talking about cheap low quality mods. I find it hard to see people penny pinching on LONG TERM MODS. Do you realize that $125 may seem like a lot of money, but in the long run, isn't the piece of mind worth it on such an important mod.

For headers, I wouldn't fault someone for going cheap, worst case scenario, you get some loud sound or not a perfect fit. But you are not going to destroy your engine.

As for Excellerate, he is just giving honest advice. I don't sell anything and would give the same advice as he is giving.

So stop acting like your word means anything on this site.

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

All I've seen lately from this guy is red text sarcasm with nothing constructive to say. It's starting to get pretty annoying. Oh, and change your damn avator, it's an Acura site, not a Bimmer site. We definitely don't need another Allen on our hands. Listen to Excellerate, there's a reason they let him be a vendor on here.

BigLizard

The only cheap mod on my car is the headers, other than that everything else is practically name brand that owns up to its name. If I thought for a minute that Bomz was a good name I would have bought from them. But I can't trust a company that only sells their on ebay; let alone having UR instructions to install it.

typeR

i drove around for a ouple years with the 55$ ebay pulley may be 30 now but i was told it was made by...crap cant remember the name but im fairly certain same company that makes one of our knock off headers...any way never had a problem oh ya megan i think

MADMAN187

Are the UR pulley instructions easy to follow? Hoe much time does it take to stall the crank pulley??

pits200

Hardest part is taking off the crank bolt, that bitch is on there tight. Best thing to do is get a knuckle bar and pull the ignition coil, brace the knuckle bar against the ground opposite the rotation of the bolt and then crank the car over quickly.

No worries about it starting as long as you pulled the right fuse.

Don't forget to take off the belt above and untightening the motor mounts to remove the belt.

Much luck, that is just the basics. If I had to do this job again, it would take about 35minutes, maybe 36.

MADMAN187

LOL will all those reminders be on the instructions? If they are clear, I dont think I will have a problem getting the bolts off because I have an air compressor.

aackshun

I dont own a CL but I probably do more reading up on the parts and car than some CL owners do and if you did a search than you would have already found the answers you're looking for about those parts....

Hey, I love my blade, i'm deff not changing my avatar until I get my next car.



his post has always been informational and helpful.

pits200

Ha, I have a 40 gallon air compressor and opted not to use this to get off the bolt, actually, I couldnt get the bolt off using it, it was on that tight. I gave it a quick tap, but when it didnt budge free, i gave up on that idea.

Its not good to rattle the shaft too much, it definitely is not good for the crank shaft. Thats why most people opt not to use an impact wrench when tackling this job. But I am a worry wart and may just be extra cautious.

typeR

i hit it with a tourch and a impact wrench it didnt even think about moving...ultimatley braced a breaker bar against the ground and turned the engine over....came right off

pits200

Wow, you went the extra step with the torch.. I can't believe it didn't come off with that. I actually don't think the UR directions tell you how to get the bolt off.

They make it sound like it is hand tightened like an oil filter, so the decide to completely leave out any tips on how to remove the crank bolt.

But I can't remember if they tell you or not, and I am to lazy to look it up.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I use the Honda crank pulley tool, to hold the stock pulley, and then get a very long breaker bar and use all 220 lbs of my weight and push for dear life. After a few times of lunging with the bar you will hear a pop like a gun shot and you will know that your bolt is loose now. I have only had one instance where the bolt came off with my gun and I have a MAC impact gun that is pretty efficient and 3/4" compressor lines.

2CLean

Word...that's the method I've used on all my cars. Take a long breaker bar, grip it HARD, and lunge forward while extending your arm out, FAST, like you were punching a wall. This will break that bitch loose everytime (so far, anyways). The key is to do it fast and hard (let the humping jokes commence).

MADMAN187

Replace cars with bitches and u got urself a joke!
Anyway seems hard but not impossible. I sense many summer projects!!