ZOMGVTEK

I have about 4,000 miles on Penzoil Platinum and a Puralator PureOne. The car says 60% oil life. However, about 90% of the time on this oil was in near or below freezing weather. I'm thinking my block heater use confused the MID a bit. When parked outside, the block heater does not have a chance to warm the oil.

On my J30A1, I ran about a 3,500 mile OCI in these conditions. Blackstone appeared to agree with this number.

Is the J35A8 easier on the oil than the J30A1? I'll probably change the oil sometime soon and send a sample off for a UOA since I didn't do one on this car yet. Probably won't own the vehicle long enough for it to even matter.

I hate cars

It probably thinks your startup temps are 100+ degrees, that would explain the super long interval. In the winter with mostly short trips, mine will call for a change in just over 3,000 miles but all the way up to 10,000 back when I was doing all freeway driving in the Vegas and Phoenix summers.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

just a heads up, on amazon they are having a deal right now and you get a free royal purple oil filter with 5 quarts of RP, or 2 free RP oil filters with 12 quarts. I just bought 12 quarts of RP (5W20) and 2 RP oil filters (2867 model) for $97 after tax and shipping. deal is good until april 5th

nfnsquared

Seriously doubt it. My MID interval never changes due to cold weather and it doesn't get much more extreme than ND. It's a constant 7500-8000 summer or winter....

I hate cars

My interval changes drastically summer to winter but my trips are very short. If you're getting it up to temp for 45 minutes there won't be much difference from summer to winter.

summerayu

I use M1-110 plus Mobil 1 5w20 extended performance all the time. 15k miles guarantee might be a little bit too much. My interval is generally following MID. Roughly around 8k miles, i do 95% hwy driving. This is generally every 4 months and the oil is already very dark.

The good thing about using full synthetic is that sometimes if I am too busy to change the oil, I can still extend for a couple of weeks without worrying too much about it

talmadgeryan

iTrader: (1)

I want to use Amsoil 5w20, but its too expensive. I use Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic 5w20 now.

abirvalg

that's the stuff!!!
135K and the inside looks as clean as the day she was made!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

You'll get the same results from regular Dino oil.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

This thread is still going?

ZedX

Mobil 1 5w-20 with bosch filters

Jware93

Mobil 1 5w-30 all the way.

Doon

Did use mobile 1 but switch to Eneos 5-w20

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Almost exactly the same as me. Only difference is I use a Bosch filter and I'm changing every 2.5 months.

I hate cars

Do you guys have a certain reason you buy the filters you do or is it a brand loyalty thing? The reason I ask is the RP beats the K&N and Bosch in every area and costs about the same.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

Good question.

I've used Mobil 1, Fram and Bosch in the past. I've never tried RP or K&N filters. Personally I like the Bosch because they have never given me any issues removing or installing. I have always had issues with the older Fram. For some reason removing them was a PITA.

Also I have about 4 Bosch filters left. I found them on sale for $5 a piece and bought 10 of them last year.

What's better about the Royal Purple ones?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ let me sum it up for IHC

better filteration and at the same time better flow

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

something something micro-glass filtration media something something, dark side.

TVL65

@ I Hate Cars, I have an 87' GN currently under going restoration.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^yeah but what kind of oil do you use for it?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ do put some blinker fluid while restoration....I have heard it does great things

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

That's what I figured.

RJANACONDA

iTrader: (1)

when it comes to oil people have various beliefs

while some people will call bs i can feel how my car performs I know if i need to check tire pressure, performance issues ect.

that being said
my car performs the BEST with Mobil 1 when its FRESH the performance noticably drops as it gets closer to change time.

used castrol once....

royal purple performance is not as good as Fresh Mobil 1 but there is no performance decrease felt from when i put it in till i take it out so that is what i use.

I also Run-through-straigt a quart of the cheapest full synth before i put in the new oil.

been using KN filters but the next change i am going to try out royal purp filter

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

I buy mobil-1 filters and oil because I get them on sale usually cheaper than the other good stuff.. and I trust the brand.
I think the RP vs Mobil-1 vs whatever debate is silly. It's not like these TL's are 600+ HP twin turbo's that are being pushed hard on the track. All of it's good stuff from reputable companies. No need to split hairs imo.
Use synthetic oil along with good name brand filters, not the cheap $4 fram junk, and change them both when you're supposed to. Do that along with all of the other preventative maintenance and you'll maximize your engine life. I don't think I've said anything earth shattering

vectorracer

Mobil one 5w 20 and use Honda oem filter

I hate cars

The TL actually has a better oiling system than my turbo car.

The myth that only race cars or cars that are driven hard benefit from better oil and filter is incorrect. If you're going to pay that much for a filter, why would you not use the one with the best filtration and flow and superior materials inside the can and including the can. A $1.50 fram orange can user might have an argument which is cost. The guys getting the M1 filters on sale have an argument. That doesn't apply when you're comparing filters that are within a couple bucks of one another and one is clearly superior.

What it comes down to is I have a reason for each product I use. 99% of the oil and filter choices are based on feelings or meaningless data such as UOAs. I'm all for a good discussion of facts. You say you trust the brand even though it says "fully synthetic" on the bottle when its not. It's like the guys running slightly more expensive OEM filters because they trust the brand and don't realize many are made by Fram with cheap materials.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Honestly...I used to buy whatever was on sale as a package deal at the various local auto parts stores...

I then realized that the normal Walmart price for a gallon of mobile 1 synthetic and a fram tough guard filter (love that rubberized coating) was about the same and since they built one 1 light from my house, that's been my choice lately.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Pretty sure Fram is one of the worst oil filters you can buy.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, but with the rubberized grip it's really easy to swap out. Like, in under 25 minutes.

Seriously though, why are they considered bad? Sh*tty materials? Don't flow well or filter enough? Maybe I'll spend the extra few bucks next time...I think Walmart has the Bosch ones too.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=72173_0_0_

Does wonders.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I use the Fram filter as well along with Penn Plat to Redline to Mobil1

Had a detailed conversation with Inaccurate about it and the only filter which passed his test (yes I do believe in him) was the Fram 3593A....and thats the filter i use

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Does it? Do anything for stripped oil drain bolts, or just filters?

Actually, thank you. I do have that wrench, in addition, I have the honda specific sized one that can be used with a 3/8 extension. Easier considering the tight space to work in.

Anil, there you have it...1 vote no, 1 vote yes.

There are only a handful of people that have done that Blackstone Analysis before/after a certain filter to see if one or another keeps more sh*t out of the oil. Matt, Innac are probably some of them too.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

"test"...what a comprehensive term.

Can anyone verify that FRAM oil filters still have cardboard end-caps, lower quality filter medium, and less of it?

I mean I can find all kind of posts here on the topic but the latest was from last year.

Again, splitting hairs.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Chad,

I have 2 oil filter wrenches:

1> Works like a charm on our cars....love it



2> on the wifey's lex, the oil filter is right under the headers...so there is no was i can get to it from top or bottom...since space was very limited there, this is the wrench I got and it works well. I got it from Sears when they had it on sale.



Well Matt and Tim have very very very different views on oil filter....I think that was on topic where both of them can get banned LOL

Tim, likes a filter which flows very very well...according to him microscopic dirt/debris in the engine is of lower importance than starving the engine by a filter which filters well but does not flow as well....

Matt, on the other hand likes the filter to filter extremely well and flow takes a higher secondary priority....

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I won't even lie....I've never needed anything other then my hands to change oil filters anyways.

29 ft lbs isn't that much.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

Fram makes some decent filters (tough guard) and some really horrible ones. Stay away from the latter, obviously. These are the ones you see on sale for $3-$4 etc. But personally I stay away from fram altogether.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I guess I'll spring for the Bosche next time...I always assumed the pur oil later ones were the suckiest ones.

I used to hand tighten, then back off 3/4 of a turn but on the RSX (maybe due to high compression) I had leakage until I just hand tightened and left it that way. Normally, I can get it by hand, but now, if it's a struggle or puts my wrist at a weird angle, I just use the wrench. After 5K miles of hot/cold etc...I've never found the filter "EASY" to remove.

nfnsquared

I haven't run comparisons, but all my Blackstone runs with the PureOne show silicon at or below average for OCIs almost twice the average OCI used by Blackstone.

And for K&N haters, I live on a dirt road and run a K&N. So either K&N doesn't let in that much silicon or the PureOne is doing a fine job of filtering all the way up to 10K miles (maybe longer), or maybe a little of both...

Who knows? All I know is the PureOne works great for me.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Filtech Honda OEM "A01" on left... FRAM Tough Guard on right...



Pick the FRAM filter out of the group...



Tough Guard after 3000 miles...yeah, cardboard, awesome.