swoosh

iTrader: (5)

great point IHC....I always forget the mention the finer details

Yes.. make sure you fill it up and unlike other fluids in the TL, the blinker fluid has to be overfilled....I usually let it overflow a little and clean the area with some power steering fluid....then I use a butane torch to dry up the residue

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

We're all a bunch of donkeys.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Mobil1 5W-20 + OEM S2000 filter

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

EDIT: @ Ravi

TVL65

My dealer uses Agip Synthetic, they stopped using Mobil 1 a few years ago whhen there was a shortage of it. My 07' TLS gets changed every 5,000 miles with it & OEM filter, I also add an 8 ounce bottle of Tufoil each change.

I hate cars

You do not want PTFE in your oil ever. If you feel your oil is not doing its job, its time for a better oil. Mine has moly and ZDDP already in it which does what Teflon claims to do but it actually works and doesn't hurt the engine.

TypeSer

i would go 5-20 mobil 1 everytime plus i think the lighter weight makes that much of difference on your engine for the long run

I hate cars

Care to elaborate?

georgelv1999

Very interesting stuff, especially the blinker fluid, I didn't know that. Now I have to go check my fluid along with my stop-light fluid.

lusid

Don't fall for the trap and reply!

I did earlier by replying to a frivolous claim on a "oil this uses this".

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I hate threads like these. Answer the question and move on.

Replace with decent oil and filter often and it will never fail you.

TVL65

Don't want PTFE in my oil ever? Then how do you explain my 98' Accord V6 which I bought new back then & started using Tufoil at 10,000 miles? Which btw just turned 280,000 miles & doesn't burn an ounce of oil & has gotten nothing but regular oil. My Tech pulled the valve covers last year & was surprised to see the valves were spotless and looked new.

I hate cars

And you can go 100,000 miles with no oil or air filter too but it doesn't mean you should. There are many, many studies as to why PTFE is absolutely terrible for your engine. Google is your friend in this case.

Those Accords regularly go that kind of mileage with no oil additives, you can't contribute it's mileage to some gimmick additive. What makes you think you need this additive?

You can't see the valves from under the valve covers, only the very tip top of the stem so I'm not sure what you're talking about.

MandoTL

REDLINE 5W-30 W/ ROYAL PURPLE FILTER.

I wanted to shout it out to the world for some reason.

Ugh having less than 3 hours of sleep for midterms apparently gave me the idea to shout in response.

350

iTrader: (4)

M1 5W-20 & M1-110 filter. Because I'm not gonna spend Redline money when I drain it more often than need be.

I hate cars

Extended drain interval is only one advantage. Less wear and a cleaner engine are pretty good advantages as well. I change mine at 5k. Sometimes sooner if it's had mostly short trips, sometimes longer if I decide to drive my car into work instead of commuting for a few months. Any old oil is fine for 5k or more in a new Honda vehicle. I change early to get rid of the contaminates.

mau108

Pennzoil Platinum the last few OCI's but will switch to Pennzoil Ultra with Bosch premium filter next oil change (which is when I pull her out of storage).

I want to see if PU can clean up under the valve cover, it is a bit dirty from the previous owner. Looks like they stuck to regular oil at the MID change intervals.

Pennzoil Platinum in our RDX which we have had since brand new is still spotless under the valve cover and no turbo issues at all. Over 110K on it now.

pimpin-tl

Penzoil Ultra seems to have been discontinued. See bitog. I was using m1 ep but stopped as my engine ran more rough and noisy with it. Penzoil Plat has been good with it and it is running it now smooth and quiet. Also proven to be better in oil tests over m1.

I hate cars

If by oil tests you're referring to the wear metals in a UOA, that's a completely invalid way of comparing oils. Wear metals mean absolutely zero in determining engine wear. There's some pretty good proof that accelerated wear can show better wear metal results and a good cleaning oil like Mobil One and Redline can show higher wear metals due to their ability to remove oxidation. Only a particle count can show the wear rate. The typical UOA is only good for comparative purposes, for seeing a change over time.

Hacura

I've been running 7k miles before an oil change with Redline 5w30 and it comes out pretty spent.

Some guy at work was telling me about an engine oil flush he does every 50k. He says he'll run a cheap oil for a few hundred miles and then drain and refill with the good stuff. In my mind I was thinking he's FOS but it got me thinking that I haven't heard of it before.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

That's why I can't understand the Mobil 1 oil that's supposedly good for 15k miles. If you wanted a filter that would that long (Mobil 1, K&N, Bosch Distance Plus or Royal Purple) you're paying $13 plus or you can get a Mann for sub $3 and change that at 5k miles for nearly $5 less than the "premium" filters.

I'd much rather have a Mann filter than a Fram produced OEM Honda filter.

I hate cars

The synthetic media filters like Royal Purple filter and flow better so regardless of the OCI, you're seeing some value. Honestly, the only "premium" filter that clearly outperforms the others is RP and Amsoil EAO. Pureone filters also filter very well but don't flow as well as some others. You'll never have flow issues with most filters except on cold start. That's why I use a filter that flows well, so the filter does not go into bypass when the car is first started with cold oil.

Sounds like Auto Rx. It's one of the good crank case flushes. However, it's not needed especially if you're running Redline. ARx is a blend of different esters. You're running an ester oil, it cleans extremely well already. ARx has some esters that will clean better than that typically found in motor oil but these engines are easy on oil and you're running a great oil, any sort of flush would likely be a waste of money, even a good one.

Redline won't be "spent" at 7k. It should have a ton of life left but it will come out black because it cleans well.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Splitting hairs! So much fun!

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

That makes sense, but personally I just can't bring myself to spend the same or more money for a filter than a 5qt oil jug I use. Now, If I used a good synthetic then I could probably spend the money for a RP filter.

I hate cars

Really in the grand scheme of things it's not that important which oil and filter you run. My father runs whatever is cheapest except in his 1,000hp GN. That gets the good stuff. He's always been an orange can Fram guy.

Me on the other hand I have to always push things. Everything that starts out innocent enough like I want a 13 second car turned into a 10 second car. I wanted a decent system and it turned into a $10,000 Dynaudio system. I want my engine to last a long time so I use Redline oil with Royal Purple filters. I have tracked the car in the past an while I usually drive it really easy I occasionally drive it hard. The main goal here is since I bought the car new and it's only had two different oils in it, I can tear it down when the car goes to the junkyard and see just how little wear and how good of shape everything is in. Sometimes I catch myself wishing it would hurry up and wear out just so I can tear it down. I guess that's not good.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

I change mine every 5K with Mobil 1 synthetic and filters. Usually I get the oil from costco. They have it on sale for about $24/case every 3 or 4 months.

Sinistr

Amsoil 5w-20 with an EAO oil filter. It gets changed every other time that the indicator turns on.

4drviper

mobil 1 5W30 high mileage
mobil 1 10W40 high mileage when towing

j_u

iTrader: (5)

amsoil 5w20 with royal purple filter

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'll have to take a look at Costco the next time I go. I'm presuming that there's 8qts to a case?

mnhanson22

Whatever 5w-20 full synth is on oil change special at autozone/advance auto

I hate cars

Good choice.

Gregerst

iTrader: (1)

6qts per box. I'll usually flip through the coupon book when I get it in the mail to see if they're on sale.

norm86

Lol, I use Quaker State 5W-20 Synthetic Oil because that's what they have at SuperLube over here. But after reading that most of you guys use Mobil 1, maybe I should use that from now on...

4drviper

the high mileages have high HTHS..

i'd use redline if i wasn't a poor student

DMZ

Mobil1 is good oil, but it's also a NAME as much or more than anything else. There's no need to play Monkey See Monkey Do. Just keep up with synthetic oil changes at regular intervals and you'll be fine.

See my post in this thread, #27.
.
.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I'm just glad I don't have an e46 M3. It takes 6qts of "special" Castrol 10w60 oil that costs like $14 a quart. When my buddy had his and did his own oil changes it would cost him right around $100 with the filter and tax.

I hate cars

They needed a high HTHS viscosity due to a (supposed) rod bearing issue if the car was going to be driven hard. Many used Redline 40wt.

winkyyy

I've noticed that a few members on here use an S2000 filter. What are the benefits to this?

I hate cars

It's larger. I don't use the OEM S2000 filter but I use the S2000 size.

Larger usually means better flow and it can go longer and hold more dirt before becoming a restriction. Of course, some just use a larger can with the same size media inside and some good medias in the stock size can out flow and out filter the larger size flters. But generally speaking, better flow, longer without plugging.