New Clutch - Am I An Idiot?
#41
yes this also happened to me at first. I put some white silicon grease on the rod and the noise has been gone, never needed to reapply it.
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jack the ex-cynic (03-26-2013)
#42
Team Owner
You got screwed. The transmission and clutch and flywheel have to come off to do the rear main seal. The warranty covers this. You literally paid labor on something that was covered by warranty.
#43
Registered Bike Offender
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
You mean they have to be removed, but they do not need to be replaced, correct? That's why they didn't charge me any labor (after negotiating). I just paid for the parts.
#44
Team Owner
I see. You should've told them you were going to supply your own parts after they agreed to no labor charges. That would get a reaction out of them.
#45
Registered Member
thanks! i'll definitely look into that. i noticed a few thousand miles back that the clutch would make kind of a creaking sound when i depressed it. now it doesn't do that any more (and didn't do it before). so maybe a spring? i've always depressed it fully in the past, it's only recently that i started playing with how far it had to go.
#46
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iTrader: (3)
I still need to take pictures of the old parts...
#47
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iTrader: (3)
Instead of starting a new thread, I'm going to bump this old freaking thing to ask a question.
So I still have the previous flywheel, PP, and clutch disc. (no T/O bearing) Is it worth anything more than scrap metal? It's collected a bit of rust since this was done. 15 months ago. The parts were completely fine when they came off the car. And if I meausured them, I'm sure they would be well within spec.
So I still have the previous flywheel, PP, and clutch disc. (no T/O bearing) Is it worth anything more than scrap metal? It's collected a bit of rust since this was done. 15 months ago. The parts were completely fine when they came off the car. And if I meausured them, I'm sure they would be well within spec.
#48
Man this is insane!
First off, the guy should NOT have recommended a new clutch until inspecting the existing one. A clutch is not preventative maintence, just like brake pads. You don't replace nice thick brake pads & rotors just because you "don't know how the previous owner drove them". These things are easily inspected for wear upon removal which he was already doing. There should be zero reason to replace the flywheel if it's not burned.....and zero reason to replace the disk & pressure plate if their not worn/burned.
Second $800+ is a terrible deal for parts when you can get the exact same OEM clutch kit in a LUK box for about $180. Yes LUK makes the OEM clutch for this car: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...s=vw:l,p_ord:p
:edit: oops, just noticed you bumped an old thread. To answer your question, take the measurments and detailed photos and you will probably be able to sell it. But don't expect to get much when a brand new LUK kit is only $180.
First off, the guy should NOT have recommended a new clutch until inspecting the existing one. A clutch is not preventative maintence, just like brake pads. You don't replace nice thick brake pads & rotors just because you "don't know how the previous owner drove them". These things are easily inspected for wear upon removal which he was already doing. There should be zero reason to replace the flywheel if it's not burned.....and zero reason to replace the disk & pressure plate if their not worn/burned.
Second $800+ is a terrible deal for parts when you can get the exact same OEM clutch kit in a LUK box for about $180. Yes LUK makes the OEM clutch for this car: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...s=vw:l,p_ord:p
:edit: oops, just noticed you bumped an old thread. To answer your question, take the measurments and detailed photos and you will probably be able to sell it. But don't expect to get much when a brand new LUK kit is only $180.
Last edited by 94eg!; 07-19-2014 at 10:06 AM.
#49
But seriously...WHY?
I didn't acquire my Type-S until just now, and I HAVE 2 kids, 1: 3 1/2 2: 17mo's
I HAD to get rid of my Civic Si coupe 6MT when # 2 was on the way because I didn't want to have to climb into the back and readjust my Drivers side seat every time I had to get them in & out, but with # 1 I kept the Si because I didn't give a rip about having to move the passenger side seat in order to get the carrier on/off the base.
You already HAVE a TL, so you are good to go with up to kid # 2 at least!
Rev
#50
I've had my 3 kids in mine before. A 5yr old (walmart booster), a 7yr old (walmart booster) and a 1yr old (rear facing in the center). They really enjoyed being in each-others face too. Lots of goofing around.
#51
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iTrader: (3)
That was a statement on being broke (large car payment), not a statement on the TL's family friendliness.
Things are much better now though. I will definitely keep the TL as long as I can.
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