Overheating w/ Oil in Coolant
#1
Overheating w/ Oil in Coolant
Here goes nothing...
Trying to help my son with his 2003 TL (auto transmission, not Type S). He kept saying the car was getting hot and the temp gauge was going way to high. He kept insisting it was the water pump, but I wanted to trying to use some process of elimination using advice all over AcuraZine and other places online. So, we switched out the temp sensor and thermostat (much cheaper and easier than jumping straight to the water pump), but in the process of doing that we noticed the coolant was a milky brown color and had some oil in it. My first thought was head gasket, but is there anything else we should be looking at? How can we tell the difference between it being the head gasket or the ATF warmer? Any other ideas or troubleshooting advice? Novice home mechanic mother and son here. LOL
Trying to help my son with his 2003 TL (auto transmission, not Type S). He kept saying the car was getting hot and the temp gauge was going way to high. He kept insisting it was the water pump, but I wanted to trying to use some process of elimination using advice all over AcuraZine and other places online. So, we switched out the temp sensor and thermostat (much cheaper and easier than jumping straight to the water pump), but in the process of doing that we noticed the coolant was a milky brown color and had some oil in it. My first thought was head gasket, but is there anything else we should be looking at? How can we tell the difference between it being the head gasket or the ATF warmer? Any other ideas or troubleshooting advice? Novice home mechanic mother and son here. LOL
#2
You need to get a Radiator Pump Pressure Cooling Leak Tester tool. Put tool on radiator opening and start car. Watch gauge on tool and see how high the pressure goes. If it is a bad head gasket, the gauge on the tool will start to rise about the maximum pressure. Obtain maximum pressure from the radiator cap.
The radiator pressure tool can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $50 or some auto parts store will rent/loan you theirs.
What color is the oil? Is the oil level low or contaminated?
What color is the transmission fluid? Is the transmission fluid low or contaminated?
The radiator pressure tool can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $50 or some auto parts store will rent/loan you theirs.
What color is the oil? Is the oil level low or contaminated?
What color is the transmission fluid? Is the transmission fluid low or contaminated?
#3
Burning Brakes
FWIW: Regarding OP comment, ( " How can we tell the difference between it being the head gasket or the ATF warmer? " ) Both, are VERY uncommon failures, on the 2G TL 3.2 engines. To rule out the H/G, follow Crashmaster's recommendation, and pressure test the cooling system first! Coolant being "milky brown" is certainly one symptom of a H/G failure.
#4
USAF Veteran
Well, one way to narrow it down quickly is to pull the dipsticks. See if either show signs of coolant. By all means, do the pressure test as well. If you listen carefully, you may even hear the leak. If needed, drain the oil and check.
#5
Thanks everyone. We will be doing the checks you suggest when I get out of work today. The oil looked fine yesterday evening when I checked it. The coolant on the other hand is milky brown with obvious specks of oil in it. When we pulled the old thermostat is saw and felt the oil on it. Anyone have any experience with the Bars Leak stuff? If we add that will we need to flush the coolant system first then add Bars Leak. We are just needing the car to get him by until he goes to boot camp, maybe a few months.
#6
Burning Brakes
FWIW: There are a number of products on the market, which may or may not address this issue. I would do a Google search. Bars Leak products, have been around forever, and they are Guaranteed, so I guess It's product, is as good as any. People also seem to like Blue Devil" Whichever product you choose, make sure to follow the instructions TO THE LETTER!
#7
I wouldn't add any stop leak or whatever. It will clog up the radiator and heater core and is very unlikely to fix the problem. Likely there is a bad head gasket or cracked head. Usually the head gasket fails because the head or block are warped from being overheated. To fix it the engine needs to be torn down and the block and heads checked for warping or cracks.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
I wouldn't add any stop leak or whatever. It will clog up the radiator and heater core and is very unlikely to fix the problem. Likely there is a bad head gasket or cracked head. Usually the head gasket fails because the head or block are warped from being overheated. To fix it the engine needs to be torn down and the block and heads checked for warping or cracks.
#9
Burning Brakes
IMO: Although I AGREE with swalch@stanford.edu's opinion, bearhugs81 Advised, ( "We are just needing the car to get him by until he goes to boot camp, maybe a few months. " ) statement seems to imply that she is trying to squeeze a few months service out of this car, with the LEAST expense possible. Although I don't condone the use of these products, IN THIS CASE, one may be appropriate!
Last edited by frankjnjr; 08-09-2018 at 08:37 AM.
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