Bearcat94

Well, I haven't seen this one before, but I am just starting to look for additional info.

Today, for no apparent reason, my car (2007 TL-S, 55k miles) decided not to start. Sounded/acted like another crap Acura battery. We had replaced the original in 5/2009.

After popping the hood I find quite a lot of corrosion around the + terminal. I thought I might've got lucky. Just clean it up and maybe it'll be good-to-go. No such luck.

The corrosion had progressed to the point that the clamp (that holds on to the battery post) is corroded through. The clamp is toast.

According to the parts diagram I've got to replace the whole cable/wire harness. According to this drawing the bit I'm looking at is between parts 12 & 13 - that clamp. http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

It's not too expensive, so I guess I could live with that.

Anyone else had this problem? What are the odds, I'll be good with just the cable replacement? Any tips on replacement?

TIA.

jokerman826

I upgraded my battery clamp mainly due to because i have a system in the trunk, but i would just cuto off the old clamp and crimp on a new one.

Bearcat94

I don't think I have the tools for that.

Where can I get a new clamp? If I take the cable off, take it with me, could I get a store/shop to crimp it on?

Will Y.

Probably best to get the entire positive battery cable assembly from what I remember seeing on the TL and Integra-- isn't there an in-line fuse attached to the positive cable as well?

Otherwise, you might call local auto parts stores to see if they have the proper (or better) replacement clamp and can crimp it on for you, but it looks like non-chain stores are closed if you're in the Eastern time zone.

G/L.

Bearcat94

Well, I got the cable off - it's pretty easy, a clamp connection at the relay box, a couple of cable holders/stays and a clamp connection at the starter.

I think you're right Will Y., just as easy to replace the whole thing. Going to search and see if AutoZone or NAPA might have a replacement.

Bearcat94

Got it running for now. Replaced the Clamp for the + side.

Had to jump the car to start it though. Still might need a new battery -

Bearcat94

Ran the car for ~30 mins after jumping. Shut it off, put everything back together.

Tried to start it and the battery is dead/dying.

ohsixMTee

iTrader: (2)

Warranty on the battery?

Bearcat94

Probably.

I bought the car, basically June 1st, 2007. Battery died, with no warning and for no apparent reason in May 2009. Replaced by Acura, including tow, 100% under warranty.

Now, just a little more than 2 years later, same problem. The all-too-well-known weak Acura Battery.

The question is do I take the pro-rated warranty on this battery and roll it over to ANOTHER weak Acura battery that'll crap out in two years OR do I bite the bullet and get something "better".

ohsixMTee

iTrader: (2)

If Acura batteries are known for failure I'd go with something else, I'm a fan of Interstate, they are the OE supplier for Volvo and could easily last 6 years.

After the car sits for a while probe the battery with a voltmeter. A healthy battery should sit around 12.8. Although that won't tell you if your CCA's are weak....AAA can give it an in depth test for free.

LoveMyTL-S

Did you idle the car or drive for 30 minutes? I understand that idling is actually bad for the battery and it's better to drive.

jokerman826

Idling the car and driving the car has no difference on charging the battery, the only thing idling the car does is destroy your gas mileage.

jokerman826

Shoul have multiquoted but oh well. What did you use for the new clamp?

Bearcat94

This one:



http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1928924


FWIW - the dead battery and the corrosion may have been two separate issues. There was a crack in the battery case near the Positive terminal post. That is where the corrosion originated and what led to the clamp being destroyed. Not sure if that also contributed to the reduced available amps or not.





Idled. But it didn't matter. Took the battery to Acura to check on warranty value before deciding whether to cut and run with another brand.

100% free warranty replacement. Tested at dealer service showed it pulling only ~10.5 volts. "Bad Cell". In and out in ~15 minutes.

I can live with "free replacement" for another 2-years. Props to the Hendrick Acura Service Department (again). They've always took care of me.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

glad you got it all figured out. i just replaced my battery with an interstate megatron plus. my 2nd acura battery was crapping out after 3 yrs (and to think they say its a 100 mo. battery). i opted to go aftermarket and cut my losses with the acura batteries. the 1st one was replaced for free after 3 years. granted the acura battery was free...i just don't wanna be stranded anywhere.

Majofo

corroded through?

Sulfuric acid?

Majofo

Delphi Acura Batteries are garbage.

Same value as those $0.99 no name brand AA batteries you find at the checkout counter.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

is that true? i always thought the battery only charges when you are driving the car around because the alternator is working.

but when you are parked and not moving (idle with engine on or in accessory mode just to sit in car and listen to radio), the alternator isn't charging the battery.

i don't know where i got the idea from, but i've always told myself that if i've been driving the car around for atleast 20-30 minutes, it's safe to idle with the engine off for 10-15 minutes to listen to the radio while waiting on someone.

am i wrong?

Majofo

The difference is charge rate which is dependent on rpm. You're likely to charge the battery faster by driving unless you increase your rpm at idle. The alternator charges the battery as long as the battery load is below the regulator threshold, this includes idling.

NBP04TL4ME

Similar story with me this past week, with no warning of any impending issues. Parked my car in the garage on Friday night and didn't use it all weekend (as usual - we use the Mrs. MDX). Went out to the car and I couldn't even unlock the car or pop the trunk with the remote. Battery was dead, dead, dead. I've had dead batteries before, but nothing like this.
Popped the hood and similarly had some corrosion on the positive terminal. Cleaned it up with a wire brush, but no luck. So I was able to jump start it with the MDX and drove 30 miles for Jury Duty with jumper cables in case. Luckily the battery held the charge, but I wasn't so lucky - I got impaneled .
Anyway we finished the day early and I brought it to the dealer. Replaced for free under warranty - "tested low."
I've always done pretty well with battery life, not sure what is different this time. I got 8.5 years out of my 94 Accord battery and my 04 TL still had the original battery when I traded it after just shy of 6 years.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

oddly, my battery had some corrosion on it too. the shop manager mentioned that to me when he replaced my battery. hmmm. my battery didn't quite die like yours or nbp04, but the lights and dash would flicker quite a bit while the engine hesitated to start. this happened with my last battery as well. stupid acura batteries.

Bearcat94

Yeah. A massive amount of green (oxidized?) powder/cake stuff. All around the + post and the clamp. The OE clamp is fairly thin metal. When I went to remove it from the post, it just broke in two.

Like I said though, there was a crack in the case right at the Postive post. Not sure how or why or when. I don't think I'd even looked at the battery since it's replacement in 2009.

jokerman826

you are correct, The alternator puts out a constant 14.4V approx. The voltage regulator keeps it there no matter what the rpms are. RPM increase will change the output frequency of the alternator but since it gets converted to DC power right away, the frequency doesnt matter. Ther rpms will also increase the amperage at which the power is put out, but in the end, even at idle speed, the alternator (as long as it is working, and you dont have a huge stereo) will charge the battery.

nacolep1982

Does anyone know what size the cables (positive and negative) are to replace? Both my cables and connectors are corroded, so I am trying to get prices.

tmitch2315

Very helpful I had exactly the same problem @ 75,000 miles on the S. Going with a new cable. Thanks,

dchamilton

Hey guys. Similar issue and hoping someone can help me out. We bought an '09 MDX a couple months ago. That battery was very corroded and seemed to need replaced. It was having some issues starting due to the battery. We replaced the battery and everything was totally fine after. However, just two months later now, the MDX did not start this morning. I pop the hood, and wouldn't you know it, the positive terminal on the battery was corroded. It hasn't even been a full two months and there was stuff everywhere. What could be causing this? The corrosion was interfering with the charge evidently (??), and the battery just died. again, what could be causing this corrosion to have friends two separate times?

NBP04TL4ME

Believe most of the time the corrosion is caused by loose terminals which let some of the battery gasses exhaust.

dchamilton

that makes sense. I was wondering if I had not tightened them enough the first time. Hopefully, that is all that it is. Thanks again.

jvallido

anyone have step by step instructions on how to remove the positive terminal on an 08 tl type-s? i know Bearcat94 stated it's pretty easy, just to make sure i have the tools and directions to properly remove it. thanks!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

it's crimped.
you're going to have to either uncrimp it or cut it.

there isnt a lot of slack, so cutting it might be out.

Majofo

Step 1) Remove terminal

Nexx

not sure if the OP's problem is completely fixed but I had a similar experience with a customers car fx35. corroded negative batter cable was shorted out the cars coils. all 6 had to be replaced along with the cable.

bauermd

iTrader: (1)

If you decide to replace your battery, I suggest the DieHard Platinum from Sears.. also comes with a 2-3 year warranty. Take the old Acura one out and toss it through the dealership window at 2am. They love early morning refunds.

NBP04TL4ME

Agree with the Sears Diehard, but not so much with the early morning refunds....

dcmodels

How? the cable end just clamps around the top battery round-post. Gases leak from around that lead top-post, where it projects through the (special) plastic battery case.

There are two easy ways to seal that tiny crack around each postive and negative battery post. With the battery cable clamp removed, coat the seam where the post projects through the battery case, using dielectric silicone grease. Do NOT put any grease on the battery posts.

Then place one of those round RED or GREEN battery corrosion prevention felt *washers* on the battery case, around each battery post - available for $2 a pair from SEARS or any local parts store. The washers are impregnated with corrosion-prevention chemicals, which neutralize any gases escaping the battery case.

Either will work alone - but I tend to overkill. Done correctly, no further prevention is required.

But if you are a belt & suspenders kind of guy, after tightening the cable clamps, you can then coat the entire clamp, post, and near area with the heavy tan-type chassis grease, just as Honda does for all new cars. Do not use the black moly type chassis grease - its just too messy, too soft so will melt when it hits 250 under the hood, and is just about impossible to clean/remove the next time you need to change a battery.

Oh, and by the way, those battery caps also vent, which means thay can vent corrosive gases during heavy and hot battery charging. But the amount is usually insignificant - but it is why Honda coats the entire battery cables and posts with grease.