Rajca

iTrader: (8)

true, forgot that he has a cl-p. type s is not a maybe, its for sure, unless u slacked on maintenance.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I think your getting your pantys in a bundle because you think their is no way in hell a clp can run with a cls.
Well,dont worry. I can't beat all cls's,but,I'm sure I will run a few down. I'm not done modifying my car,I haven't even cracked the block.
How's your brake pad upgrade doing ? You must have picked up big pony's there.
Why don't you drop some bread and modify something instead of talking s@!#,HATER.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

lol. thread was going great. ppl think what they want. thats why i asked if u were gonna do a before and after run. to shut ppl up. but their should be some stock cl-p/tl-p dyno runs out their that u can compare too

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Ya,I'm not the guy to go blow dough on some pulls. The #'s are not that important.
I will run it down the 1/8 to see what it can do as soon as its together

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

why not the 1/4

Nersh7

ya I don't think the argument is worth it because it doesnt seem possible the gains your takling about but we havent been for a ride so we need a base dyno to compare to and a after dyno as well

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

1/8 is 5 minutes from my house.
1/4 is 45-50 minutes
the 1/4 is the z max thou.In the spring I will go

CH46ESeaKnight

I could give a rats ass if you can take a CLS, I DON"T CARE! Big fucking deal, ohhh you might be able to beat a 3500 lb car with a whopping 260 hp. OMG your so cool! Whoopty Fu*&ing DO!

You won't blow some doe on a dyno run but you'll paint your car all "Hello Kitty, RichardRicer" style for 4K??????

Like I said I could give a shit less how fast your CLP is!

But to claim you can do a little intake porting and add headers and get better gains than a $3,000 to $4,000 supercharger, your an idiot!

Oh yea, I'm a hater cause your car is the shit? YOUR A FU*%ING ASS CLOWN TARD if you think you can do some IN HOME sanding and and add some cheap headers and get SC quality power!

I'm not dropping any more doe than I need to keep the cls running properly. I don't see any reason to drop doe on modding a 260hp 3500 lb car that has SHIT for resale, and will likely break another tranny before the warranty is up.
But you go buddy! But if anyone else see it differant that fine, I dont care what you do to your car, its your car, do what you like. Its a nice car but I will never get the performance I'm looking for out of a CLS. Its not the right car for me, just a daily driver.
WOW.

Nersh7

I think what you've done is pretty sweet, props to you no matter what the haters think.

CH46ESeaKnight

I've said it before that he did some nice work, but his claims to power gained are stupid.

Nersh7

30+ hp is a bit much but you havent been for a ride, so you can't possibly tell him hes wrong

again I want to see a dyno

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Presicely the reason I have not gotten on his case about it, until now.

Im pretty sure the majority of us know that he didnt gain 30hp from polishing his intake and throttle body (I refuse to say port and polish because he didnt flow bench it).

Please, also remember that the 65 shot is not giving you a full 65 hp. So by saying it feels like its "putting out more than half the power it did on a 65shot", you are truly saying "whatever it put out on the 65 shot, it feels like half that".

You cant magically come up with 30hp just by feel. You could have simply brought the torque curve further down in the powerband, but we'll never know because there is no before dyno. And you cant say look at the other CL-Ps that have been dyno'd because no 2 motors are alike.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

well. nx, zex, nos, when they say 65 shot wet, they mean to the wheels not crank. each car is diff and looses some here and their, but hes still getting like an extra 50whp just from some spray.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

should have gone with a 6spd

for u it might not be, but for some its what they can afford now or back then. and their doing what they can with it

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and some people like the room these cars offer and the luxary type ride (not so much once it is lowered, but they still ride alot better then most cars being lowered)

gfrg88

iTrader: (2)

Base CL/TL FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Headers are on with no fitment issues.
the clp is getting faster.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

all shiny, mine are not so much anymore , but they been on the car for a couple of years now though, with out the stupid salted roads of the east coast at least


also please move on from that cheapo fram filter, your engine deserves better

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

which filter would be some of the better one's?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

none of the $2 one's ,

but geneally speaking, you get what you pay for in filters (some brands you do pay for the name though, ie: mobil-one, but they are still a decent filter)



but i do like to use Carquest's blue line filter (85334 iirc), which is a pretty good compromise between price and quality (and i think they are made by WIX too),


but looking at the oem one here:
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit

i might have to go buy a couple of them , and i might have to go check a couple of newer honda's ones, cause they look like they might have a larger filter media, idk, i would have to go check <(in red)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i just dont like the way the o2 sensor wires are twisted.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

did not even notice that

so richie unhook the o2 wires and untwist them already

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Will do,I will probally just un pop the clip to relieve some tension and then re clip.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^easiest way.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

also maybe try:http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters...lters.shtmland i am just starting to read them also

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

wtf the board is acting funny

ChucksCL-S

Wix and Hastings filters are two of the best out there and reasonably priced.

ChucksCL-S

If not done already get a light weight crank pulley and CAI and you'll be hanging with or even pulling on the Type S gang. Nice job on the headers, That's a lot of work, took me all day but sure worth it. You'll see at the higher rpm's your engine will scream.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml



and




http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/old_filters.shtml




and i might have to rethink that oem filter too

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Just installed
2 P2r cls manifold gaskets and the cls TB spacer and gaskets.



The cl is getting quicker everyday.

I think P2R should make plenum and top plate gaskets.
I'd buy those too.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Had to reroute the rear of my nitrous line today because I heard it rubbing the upper arm.
So,it got me to cut and tap the cai for the nitrous nozzle.
I haven't sprayed the car since all the motor work.
I think it will be a big differnce.
Just got to get the bottle filled and it's either on with whoever,or the tranny will be dying.
If the speed shop is open tomorrow it will be getting filled tomorrow.


Should I put a breather on the engine side of the hose that I removed from the cai ?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

the breather hose to the valve cover
, it needs to be either rerouted to the intake (preferred), or at least a good filter put on it (remember any dirt that is entering there is going to go through your motor, and right into the manifold itself

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

im not sure if u can put a breather hose on that hose.


also not the best place for the nozzle. isnt deep enough inside the intake

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I should've took a picture of the tip looking into the tube.
It's in about a inch and I can move it in atleast another 1/4" if I need to.
The port that was coming off the cai was cut 1/2" so I could get in deep enough for the nossle.

I will have to look again where the hose that I removed goes.
It don't go to the valve cover and it sucks vac.
Also where the best spot to put a breather..
On the rear vavle cover and cap the rear of the intake or both the rear valve cover,and the rear of the intake ?
Also will running breathers on everything be bad ?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Got a question for you rajca

Let's say I was wanting to add another stage of nitrous.
A 2nd shot.

Would I beable to with just having another zex box and using a T off the main nitrous line to go to each box so I can use both from the same bottle ?
I was thinking 65-75 on the tps and 100 on a switch for the 2nd shot.

gfrg88

iTrader: (2)

Another solenoid and nozzle would make sense to me.. Never done 2 stage so don't know how they work honestly..

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yes you can do it that way, but remember you are going to be getting a 165-175 shot unless of course you switch off the first shot (aka having both engaged)

as far as just teeing off of your current line, completely depends on the size of the line and if it be able to actually support the flow needed for the shot size you want

then for a single bottle working..., again as long as it can suppost the flow needed (in the valve mainly), and as long as it is large enough for the duration and size of the shot you want to run

then YES you can just use your current setup, and just teeing off of it

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^ Thanks
I want to have the 65-75 on the tps so it will be safer for blasting all time.
Then a switch for the 2nd one so when Someboby has a fast car or I go to play at the track.
Sure to be fast then,Till tranny goes

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

then yeah having 2 zex boxes would be the easist way of going (and the main line just tee'd off), then depending on what shot you want, you just switch that box on/power

and for that i would still leave the master arm switch alone, then get another switch (doable-throw, single pole; i think that is what it is called , but anyways it would have three terminals, with the center one being common, and depending on what way it is switched, it connects with it's respective terminal) so the package probably will say "ON-ON"

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

or you might even be able to just get a plain old solenoid, and nozzle, then actually TEE off the lines AFTER the ZEX box, so all it does is provide an extra injection nozzle, while still being controled by the zex box (and all you do is provide power to the solenoid, to basically turn it on, or just leave it off for the 65 shot)

edit: actually two solenoids, one for nitrous, and one for fuel