Changed my air conditioner filters
06-17-2002, 07:09 PM
#1
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Changed my air conditioner filters
Using Jen's instructions, I saved about $70.00 by changing them myself. The only hangup were the rollers on each side of the glovebox. They come out if you push on the black plastic thing they are attached to on the inside of the glovebox. They were pretty dirty after 2 years. Can't believe my dealer charges $98 to do this. I could do it 15 minutes now.
06-17-2002, 07:19 PM
#2
Cajun Gumbo Man
I change mine every 10,000 miles ! Keep my allergies in good shape.......gotta love this car !
Illusion is what Acura presents, so we think it MAJOR work ! Ha, it a royal pain in the ass...................
Illusion is what Acura presents, so we think it MAJOR work ! Ha, it a royal pain in the ass...................
06-17-2002, 07:29 PM
#4
Cajun Gumbo Man
I pay my HONDA dealership because the glove box is a pain in the rear. Honda saved me 25 bucks. Acura charges 90 bucks....I'd recommend, depending on your environment, to change them at least every 12,000 miles.......AND ask for them, so you can determine how bad they are, and when you should change them next go round.....
06-17-2002, 08:09 PM
#6
To access the interior air filters you will need a Phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife. Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
There is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw, remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flat blade.
The glove box will now open downwards, there are two Phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure, remove both screws; the door can now be removed.
You will now see two Phillips screws that appear to hold nothing in place, remove these -- leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dashboard structure, save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible; remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow; the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well. Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the air box . Take the white panel and snap it back in place.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure, the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glove box in reverse fashion from disassembly.
.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
There is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw, remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flat blade.
The glove box will now open downwards, there are two Phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure, remove both screws; the door can now be removed.
You will now see two Phillips screws that appear to hold nothing in place, remove these -- leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dashboard structure, save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible; remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow; the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well. Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the air box . Take the white panel and snap it back in place.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure, the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glove box in reverse fashion from disassembly.
.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
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sixxian (06-07-2015)
06-17-2002, 08:34 PM
#7
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Originally posted by cnatra
To access the interior air filters you will need a Phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife. Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
There is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw, remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flat blade.
The glove box will now open downwards, there are two Phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure, remove both screws; the door can now be removed.
You will now see two Phillips screws that appear to hold nothing in place, remove these -- leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dashboard structure, save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible; remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow; the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well. Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the air box . Take the white panel and snap it back in place.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure, the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glove box in reverse fashion from disassembly.
.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
To access the interior air filters you will need a Phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife. Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
There is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw, remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flat blade.
The glove box will now open downwards, there are two Phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure, remove both screws; the door can now be removed.
You will now see two Phillips screws that appear to hold nothing in place, remove these -- leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dashboard structure, save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible; remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow; the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well. Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the air box . Take the white panel and snap it back in place.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure, the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glove box in reverse fashion from disassembly.
.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
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06-17-2002, 08:44 PM
#8
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Originally posted by Fabvsix
I pay my HONDA dealership because the glove box is a pain in the rear. Honda saved me 25 bucks. Acura charges 90 bucks....I'd recommend, depending on your environment, to change them at least every 12,000 miles.......AND ask for them, so you can determine how bad they are, and when you should change them next go round.....
I pay my HONDA dealership because the glove box is a pain in the rear. Honda saved me 25 bucks. Acura charges 90 bucks....I'd recommend, depending on your environment, to change them at least every 12,000 miles.......AND ask for them, so you can determine how bad they are, and when you should change them next go round.....
06-17-2002, 09:03 PM
#9
Cajun Gumbo Man
Sorry Jens, I have NO patience and prob. would rip the glove box off it tracks and create a mess..........
06-17-2002, 09:46 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Shawn S
Cool job.
How much do the filters cost and where do you buy them?
Shawn S
Cool job.
How much do the filters cost and where do you buy them?
Shawn S
06-17-2002, 09:59 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
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I just bought a set from ahmotor.com for 9.30each + 7 shipping. Dealer was 12.50 plus tax or $110.00 plus tax installed.. I will tackle this one myself.... 
06-18-2002, 12:13 AM
#16
Suzuka Master
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when is the normal interval for scheduled maintenance on these filters: 15k miles or 30k?
edit:
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com --> test drive ownerlink -->enter make/model/year --> service/maintenance schedule:
15k (severe)
Services to be performed:
Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer with Genuine Acura Parts.
Inspect and rotate tires.
Inspect wiper blades.
Check/adjust fluid levels.
Road test.
Replace air filter with Genuine Acura Parts.
Inspect belts, hoses, fuel lines and exhaust system.
Inspect front and rear brake assemblies.
Inspect steering system, suspension components, alignment and parking brake.
edit:
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com --> test drive ownerlink -->enter make/model/year --> service/maintenance schedule:
15k (severe)
Services to be performed:
Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer with Genuine Acura Parts.
Inspect and rotate tires.
Inspect wiper blades.
Check/adjust fluid levels.
Road test.
Replace air filter with Genuine Acura Parts.
Inspect belts, hoses, fuel lines and exhaust system.
Inspect front and rear brake assemblies.
Inspect steering system, suspension components, alignment and parking brake.
06-18-2002, 07:17 AM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
2 years or 30,000 miles is recommended for replacement. Mine were pretty dirty after 2 years and 17,000 miles. Seems like a home filter, the more you change the better off you are. Some pretty serious dirt was deep in the folds of the filter so I guess they really do work.
06-18-2002, 09:30 AM
#18
Cajun Gumbo Man
Remember the manual is for NORMAL condidtions......so what the hell is normal in USA ? If and only if your drive once a week to church, then you can follow the idots that wrote the manual.......hahahahahahha or USE your common sense the big guy gave you ! I change mine every 10,000 miles period ! 
06-20-2002, 06:50 PM
#19
Racer
Just a couple pics for those looking to replace the filters & the glove box bulb. The bulb is the same type used in the trunk, doors, map lights, & license plate.
10-30-2004, 04:33 PM
#20
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Changed my filter today!
Used the instructions; it took me like 20 Min. but not problems. My car has 36,000 miles and the fitlers where never changed they where filthy dirty. I turn on my ac for a few min. I noticed a difference in the air; smelled fresh and clean. I would recommend changing it onces a year just to be clean!
12-11-2004, 09:15 AM
#21
9th Gear
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Cabin filter replace sequence
Replace sequence with photos from the BatAuto folks:
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml
And you thought it only applied to Aucra...
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/cabinair.shtml
And you thought it only applied to Aucra...
04-08-2006, 10:39 PM
#23
Senior Moderator
For the air filter (under the hood), it's just 2 bolts (10mm??) pop up the cover (be careful not to break the tabs), remove old, install new, and put it back together...
The helms manual has more detailed instructions....
For the pollen filter, another good writeup is here:
Flounders excellent pollen filter DIY with pictures
The helms manual has more detailed instructions....
For the pollen filter, another good writeup is here:
Flounders excellent pollen filter DIY with pictures
04-28-2006, 07:56 PM
#24
CLS 6MT Navi
Pulled my cabin filters today, kinda dirty at 30k miles. Once I figured out the clips that hold the compartment in, just pried them loose, it was easy. I couldn't have done it without the great instructions here, thanks.
I got the Bosch filters for like $12. Purolator ones were $21. Autozone had some for $45 that had charcoal.
I got the Bosch filters for like $12. Purolator ones were $21. Autozone had some for $45 that had charcoal.
05-04-2006, 09:19 AM
#25
3 the Hard Way
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Does it make a significant difference b/w Bosch, Purolator, or charcaol ones? I'd like to spend as little as possible, but if someone has a convincing reason why it's better to go with say, $45 charcoal ones vs. $12 Bosch ones, then I'm all ears.
05-19-2006, 05:17 PM
#27
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 123456SPEED
I got the Bosch filters for like $12. Purolator ones were $21. Autozone had some for $45 that had charcoal.
Darkness, I didn't think it mattered, but there are some people here who will only put the best filters money can buy in their cars...
Since the OEM's are just paper filters, I figure the paper filters are fine...
If you suffer from Mysophobia, I guess only the charcoal ones will do...
Questions like this are sometimes better asked in the General discussion forum, the FAQ doesn't get as much traffic as it should...
05-31-2006, 11:44 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by cnatra
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dashboard structure, save this panel as it is to be reused later.
Jens
Jens
'01
06-02-2006, 07:36 PM
#29
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I have an 03 CL-S, there is no panel to cut. The job is quite easy. The toughest part is prob unscrewing the compartment. Hard to get the screw driver straight on with the limited space.
06-04-2006, 05:28 PM
#30
Senior Moderator
Yes, there is a peice you have to cut the first time that the filters are changed. After that, you just unscrew the peice... If someone has replaced them before, then there is nothing to cut.
See this thread for pics of the peice you cut the first time, and to see it screwed in after you replace the filters:
Flounders excellent pollen filter DIY with pictures
See this thread for pics of the peice you cut the first time, and to see it screwed in after you replace the filters:
Flounders excellent pollen filter DIY with pictures
06-09-2006, 07:27 AM
#32
I just did this with flounder's diy guide. It is so rediculously easy, I don't get how the dealership charges so much. I would go with the purolator filters, I compared them to the OEM and there is little or no difference. Also they are much easier to find at auto parts store.
07-07-2006, 06:34 AM
#33
Just changed my AC filters last night using the instructions posted here. Took me all of 15 minutes to get the job done, not bad at all. I can't believe the dealer wanted to charge me like $100 to replace them!! Bought the 2 Purolator filters for about $17 total.
08-04-2006, 11:29 PM
#34
Loose Cannon
the previous owner of my CLS was an old lady who smoked, my car has only got 12000 miles, should i go in there and get the filters changed or just wait until my next service?
Also, u guys think its a good idea to get some of those active charcoal carbon whatever whatever filters?
Also, u guys think its a good idea to get some of those active charcoal carbon whatever whatever filters?
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