Help! Koni yellow and Type-S bushings.
10-28-2011, 06:57 PM
#1
Help! Koni yellow and Type-S bushings.
I'm doing it wrong.
I went to my friends shop, with a spring compressor, to take off the top hats from the OEM shocks.
the metal sleeve that fits inside the bushings wont fit over the koni yellow threads.
sorry for the poor quality
what am I doing wrong?
the part number for the shock is 8041 1332L which I think is correct.
I went to my friends shop, with a spring compressor, to take off the top hats from the OEM shocks.
the metal sleeve that fits inside the bushings wont fit over the koni yellow threads.
sorry for the poor quality
what am I doing wrong?
the part number for the shock is 8041 1332L which I think is correct.
10-28-2011, 07:26 PM
#3
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That steel collar is used on virtually every Acura ever made - exact same part for years and years and years.
IIRC, when we did mmade22's, we assembled the tophats, put the dust covers, washer, etc., on and then just slid the tophat on and tightened it up. No problem.
So I am thoroughly confused why that collar doesn't fit.
Also, pics of the "Steel outer layer" on the Type-S bushing?? I don't remember that either.
IIRC, when we did mmade22's, we assembled the tophats, put the dust covers, washer, etc., on and then just slid the tophat on and tightened it up. No problem.
So I am thoroughly confused why that collar doesn't fit.
Also, pics of the "Steel outer layer" on the Type-S bushing?? I don't remember that either.
10-28-2011, 08:04 PM
#5
Race Director
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I heard that people had to "expand the metal collar".
You should be able to separate the collar IIRC to expand it.
Good luck!
You should be able to separate the collar IIRC to expand it.
Good luck!
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 10-28-2011 at 08:07 PM.
10-28-2011, 09:13 PM
#6
^nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it is expandable....its has a slit down the middle.
I FUCKING LOVE YOU.
now, I have to figure out the type-s bushing. the steel top part will not go over the threads, if i force it, it will fuck up the threads.
I FUCKING LOVE YOU.
now, I have to figure out the type-s bushing. the steel top part will not go over the threads, if i force it, it will fuck up the threads.
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CLtotheTL32 (10-28-2011)
10-28-2011, 10:06 PM
#10
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Put it in a vise and ream it to fit?
10-28-2011, 10:22 PM
#11
Okay here is the deal. Yes the shaft diameter is larger where the top-hats mount on Konis. They have always been this way. The shocks should have included new larger diameter sleeves and washers (no bushings). You will need to use the sleeves from the Koni kit and toss the washers. If you did not get the sleeves in your kit, contact Koni for replacments.
Now whenever Honda makes a performance version of a car, they always use this special style of top-hat bushing. They are found on the Integra Type-R, Civic SIR, the S2000 and now the TL Type-S. Because these bushings have integrated washers inside the rubber, it is necessary to drill out the hole in the bushing to make room for the larger diameter shock shaft. This is common issue in the Type R forum on Honda-Tech.
If you look at the captions in the following link, you will see what I mean:
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=8
Before and after:
Now whenever Honda makes a performance version of a car, they always use this special style of top-hat bushing. They are found on the Integra Type-R, Civic SIR, the S2000 and now the TL Type-S. Because these bushings have integrated washers inside the rubber, it is necessary to drill out the hole in the bushing to make room for the larger diameter shock shaft. This is common issue in the Type R forum on Honda-Tech.
If you look at the captions in the following link, you will see what I mean:
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=8
Before and after:
10-29-2011, 01:14 AM
#14
KingKong_Dav
i know a quick solution to ur ordeal. you have to buy type s shocks. haha that is funny you fcked up this bad. dont be sooo excited with the type s bushing it doesnt do much. ive done this on aspec top hats and switch back the next day because of poor ride quality. lol your funny
10-29-2011, 09:54 AM
#17
Race Director
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Good luck with the install!
I'm working on mine today too.
I just found out that my A-Spec rears have Type-S bushings on them still!
I can tell the top of the bushing is metal when I tap on it with my finger.
That makes my fronts-stock bushings,rears-type s bushings
I wonder how that's gonna ride lol
I'm working on mine today too.
I just found out that my A-Spec rears have Type-S bushings on them still!
I can tell the top of the bushing is metal when I tap on it with my finger.
That makes my fronts-stock bushings,rears-type s bushings
I wonder how that's gonna ride lol
10-29-2011, 11:33 AM
#20
I'm sorry I didn't get your question.
I have seen where people mount their front shocks lower in the damper fork, but that was on older Civics & Integras. I don't know if that's doable with this car. I don't think you should worry about this unless your going to be slammed really low anyways. A typical lowering spring will be stiff enough for it's drop without messing with shock travel. Besides, you can run into new problems by increasing bump travel. Things like your UCAs banging against the inside of the fender is common. Especially if you have a front camber kit.
As far as I know this is new territory on the TL. You probably don't want to be a guinea pig.
I have seen where people mount their front shocks lower in the damper fork, but that was on older Civics & Integras. I don't know if that's doable with this car. I don't think you should worry about this unless your going to be slammed really low anyways. A typical lowering spring will be stiff enough for it's drop without messing with shock travel. Besides, you can run into new problems by increasing bump travel. Things like your UCAs banging against the inside of the fender is common. Especially if you have a front camber kit.
As far as I know this is new territory on the TL. You probably don't want to be a guinea pig.
10-29-2011, 11:59 AM
#21
Originally Posted by ihc
This is super simple. All you do is knock the locating tab off of the bottom of the shock body (the tab that stops the shock from sliding too far into the mount). Make sure to mark the where the bottom of the tab is so you have a reference (in case the missing paint is not enough lol). This tab is only there to locate the shock at the right height for installation, it has no load bearing capabilities so there are no worries about the shock slipping in the lower control arm with it removed.
The goal is to install with the spring perch in the highest position which will give you the additional travel. Ride height adjustments are made by sliding the shock further into the lower mount.
It make a huge difference especially when hitting bumps while cornering hard. The car will be much more planted. The ride will be improved as well since you will be hitting the bumpstops less.
The goal is to install with the spring perch in the highest position which will give you the additional travel. Ride height adjustments are made by sliding the shock further into the lower mount.
It make a huge difference especially when hitting bumps while cornering hard. The car will be much more planted. The ride will be improved as well since you will be hitting the bumpstops less.
IHC sent me a PM.
I believe he has done it. and I remember a thread where you and him were discussing this.
since I have no ride to take me to the shop, yet...I've been trying to knock off the tab.
i cant break the welds
10-29-2011, 03:35 PM
#23
You could give it a try, but you need to test fit everything without the spring in place to make sure you've got the shocks high enough that the drive-shafts won't contact the shock body anywhere in the suspension stroke. You also want to make sure the UCAs won't hit the shock tower. Also make sure you get both left & right shocks in exactly the same position. If you have the patience to do this, then go for it.
Of course knocking spot welds of a shock body sounds like a PITA to me.
You know you could always go back and do this later if you want. Just remember you need an alignment every time you replace suspension parts or change your ride height.
Of course knocking spot welds of a shock body sounds like a PITA to me.
You know you could always go back and do this later if you want. Just remember you need an alignment every time you replace suspension parts or change your ride height.
10-29-2011, 07:29 PM
#24
-------Tim-------
If I remember correctly u will have to drill out the type-s bushings to 12mm. I had Marcus drill mine out when I ordered them. Also when you are using the type-s bushings you will eliminate some of the hardware from the stock setup. This being the metal collar that u referred to earlier in the thread(again if I remember correctly) and some of the washers as well. Also you will have to drill out the bumpstops as well (to 12mm) in order for them to fit over the Koni's, I cut mine as well. I will try to find the emails that I have some of the info I have from when I did mine, if I have it. Lol!
Last edited by Slpr04UA6; 10-29-2011 at 07:31 PM.
11-05-2011, 08:14 AM
#27
So, I've had my car on jack stands all week. Yesterday, I had the day off and tried to complete my install.
Went back to my friends shop with a drill to drill out the bushings.
What kind of shop doesnt have a drill? lol I know.
anyway, I had found a drill at my house. You have to understand, this drill is from the 1930's. well, not really. but its freaking old.
I got to the shop plugged in the power drill and it wouldnt work. God did not want me to finish up this install at all.
Went to a shop down the street to have them drill out the bushings.
came back to my friends shop and used the spring compressor.
Voila!
Front:
You can see where I tried to knock off the mounting tab.
Like 94eg! said; that spot weld is pretty tough.
Rear:
My silly ass forgot to install the dust boot covers and the dust boot shield thing.
I'll fab up a shield boot thingy using the oem one.
Brb guys, I'm off to install them on my car.
Btw, I paired the aspec springs with the koni yellows and type-s bushings.
Went back to my friends shop with a drill to drill out the bushings.
What kind of shop doesnt have a drill? lol I know.
anyway, I had found a drill at my house. You have to understand, this drill is from the 1930's. well, not really. but its freaking old.
I got to the shop plugged in the power drill and it wouldnt work. God did not want me to finish up this install at all.
Went to a shop down the street to have them drill out the bushings.
came back to my friends shop and used the spring compressor.
Voila!
Front:
You can see where I tried to knock off the mounting tab.
Like 94eg! said; that spot weld is pretty tough.
Rear:
My silly ass forgot to install the dust boot covers and the dust boot shield thing.
I'll fab up a shield boot thingy using the oem one.
Brb guys, I'm off to install them on my car.
Btw, I paired the aspec springs with the koni yellows and type-s bushings.
Last edited by justnspace; 11-05-2011 at 08:19 AM.
11-05-2011, 08:56 AM
#28
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I thought you were doing (already had?) H&R Sport springs?
11-05-2011, 09:01 AM
#29
^the sale fell through.
plus, when researching H&R did not disclose their spring rates. I had no idea if the front were stiffer than the rears. from what I understand, you want the rears to be stiffer so it can induce oversteer. is this right?
then my buddy gave me the aspec springs.
plus, when researching H&R did not disclose their spring rates. I had no idea if the front were stiffer than the rears. from what I understand, you want the rears to be stiffer so it can induce oversteer. is this right?
then my buddy gave me the aspec springs.
Hope you get it done today man
11-05-2011, 09:15 AM
#32
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^the sale fell through.
plus, when researching H&R did not disclose their spring rates. I had no idea if the front were stiffer than the rears. from what I understand, you want the rears to be stiffer so it can induce oversteer. is this right?
then my buddy gave me the aspec springs.
plus, when researching H&R did not disclose their spring rates. I had no idea if the front were stiffer than the rears. from what I understand, you want the rears to be stiffer so it can induce oversteer. is this right?
then my buddy gave me the aspec springs.
Gave? Hard to beat free.
11-05-2011, 10:33 AM
#39
Race Director
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damn i wished I had koni yellows haha
I'm gonna work on my front passenger suspension today, getting the broken pinch bolt out!
I'm gonna work on my front passenger suspension today, getting the broken pinch bolt out!