Car won't start. Just hear a clicking noise when I turn key..

Old 06-16-2013, 12:31 AM
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it could be your battery, or possibly the starter
Old 06-16-2013, 12:37 AM
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Could be a couple different issues. Start with the terminal connections, then check the battery and make sure the voltage is spec and is getting the appropriate charge from the alternator. Try starting with radio on and interior dome lights on.. see if they dim at all when you try to start it. Then check the voltage drop when you turn on the AC. If all that looks good.. it's more than likely the starter going out. Check for continuity from the armature to the solenoid terminals (I believe it's the two posts and then the main post to armature housing). Even if it passes the test.. it could still be carbon fouling.. time to rebuild/replace.
Old 06-18-2013, 07:38 PM
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From what I have learnt from Maj, take a breaker bar to the starter, tap on it with the bar...it worked for me....true story !!!

The usual way to check is check all connections and then honk, if the horn seems fine, its not battery related...tap on the starter and give it a go....if the horn is very dim/light and fades away very quickly, you might need a new battery....

either way, get a jump, hit up Advance Auto Parts for a free check up and if needed get a new battery....use the coupon code BATX to get 25% off on the battery....order from your smart phone standing in the store, select pick up in store, and they install it for free
Old 06-18-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
From what I have learnt from Maj, take a breaker bar to the starter, tap on it with the bar...it worked for me....true story !!!
That's only if it won't start and it's not the battery / terminals.. and by tap, you mean bang the shit out of it.

...and for anyone reading this in desperation to start their car.. hit the armature housing, not the solenoid.
Old 02-07-2015, 09:37 PM
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Reviving this thread...my started died today.

Does anyone know of a good REBUILD KIT for a 2006 starter?

Seems like a good, low cost option if there are any available.
Old 02-08-2015, 12:17 PM
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I can imagine replacing just the faulty component in your starter being cheaper than a reman. The problem I see in this is sourcing any components.
Old 06-16-2015, 11:15 PM
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2008 Acura wont start...

I hope this helps... Had a problem with an 08 Acura. Kid parked it overnight, wouldn't start in the morning. Checked Fuses and Battery. Terminals had corrosion. Cleaned, no help. Used spare key, no help. Was about to buy a starter (about $130.00 locally) but read somewhere to lock the vehicle using the remote and open the car with the key, then try it. Well, that worked! WTF! Then had to reenter the code on the radio which mine was on the right side (outside part) of the glove compartment. Car's all better! Although this might not work with everyone, thought I'd share this and helps someone before spending money on expensive parts.
Old 11-23-2015, 11:24 PM
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I've been having the same problem lately. I recently got a new battery like 2 months ago and the past 2 weeks I would get into my car and turn the key and nothing would turn on. I thought I had a bad battery. Then the car would turn on my 2nd try. So one day I was getting into my car and press the unlock button and it wouldnt work. It wouldnt unlock my car. So I opened the door with the key and sat it in for a while because I had no where else to go and then I tried to turn the car on and it worked. So then I finally realize that when I try to turn on my car and it doesn't work, just open and close the door and then put the key back in the ignition and it works. Something about the remote and the car is off.
Old 12-04-2015, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
From what I have learnt from Maj, take a breaker bar to the starter, tap on it with the bar...it worked for me....true story !!!

The usual way to check is check all connections and then honk, if the horn seems fine, its not battery related...tap on the starter and give it a go....if the horn is very dim/light and fades away very quickly, you might need a new battery....

either way, get a jump, hit up Advance Auto Parts for a free check up and if needed get a new battery....use the coupon code BATX to get 25% off on the battery....order from your smart phone standing in the store, select pick up in store, and they install it for free
Get a multimeter and do a proper test. There is a youtube video showing how to do it. I did this on my jeep when I was having similar problems. Using a multimeter, and running the various tests in the video, I found my battery and alternator were fine. I just had a bad connection on my negative battery cable, making it so it couldn't pull enough current from the battery. (Corrosion didn't look too bad)... But I cleaned it real good, then sprayed dialectric grease on it, to prevent it from corroding again... (Those felt rings are garbage and don't do shit... The dialetric did the trick... Did this 2 years ago, and I still have zero corrosion on the battery terminals)
Old 02-23-2016, 07:50 AM
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In my case it was a bad battery connection. I have a 2001 Acura MDX - must say it's nice SUV. Last week I had the same problem i.e. the car won't start. The internal lights worked, horn worked, radio worked but the car won't just start and just kept making a lot of clicking sound. I tried to jump start it using a brand new jumper cable but surprisingly that failed to start the car as well. I started to wonder if my alternator/starter had gone bad. After reading a lot of forums I decided to clean the battery connections. I cleaned the terminals properly and removed the felt rings that were installed 5 months ago when I had purchased a new battery. And, the car just started with just one turn of the ignition. Obviously, the problem was with the leads where the stupid felt rings had deteriorated and accumulated gunk and that lead to a bad connection, especially on the Negative terminal. I am glad that I didn't get my car towed to the Acura dealership who were telling me that it was probably a combination of bunch of bad problems that could cost me over $500 in a series of diagnostic tests and up to $1000 in parts.
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