My '07 TLS M/T dyno test with bolt ons.
11-23-2011, 06:53 PM
#1
My '07 TLS M/T dyno test with bolt ons.
What's up acurazine, went in for a dyno testing today because I was curious to see what numbers I would put down after a couple of mods...
Mods are :
rv6 pcd,rv6 v3 j pipe, cai, custom 2.5 piping, mdx manifold spacer.
Dyno was done on a dyno jet.. Not sure if these numbers are a bit low or not.
274.37 whp - 256.35 torque.
Mods are :
rv6 pcd,rv6 v3 j pipe, cai, custom 2.5 piping, mdx manifold spacer.
Dyno was done on a dyno jet.. Not sure if these numbers are a bit low or not.
274.37 whp - 256.35 torque.
Last edited by dstah; 11-23-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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mszczep1 (12-27-2011)
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11-24-2011, 10:22 AM
#13
Yeah, an extra 10% fuel up until 4.5k wouldn't hurt. As usual, smoothing out that Honda vtec crossover would give you a nice, linear powerband. You might even benefit from taking out some fuel after 6k. It's dipping down close to low 12s a/f there. Also, who knows what a timing and vtec crossover change would do. As you're tuner said, all of the above would only be possible with some tuning software.
11-24-2011, 11:48 AM
#15
Suzuka Master
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Being that it's uncorrected and the run conditions are blurry in the pics, it's impossible to say whether it's making good/bad numbers. If I could read the conditions I could get an idea, but since you paid for the dyno run, I'd go back and ask if they'll correct it to SAE J1349.
11-24-2011, 10:39 PM
#18
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looks good....i would say numbers do look a tad bit low...
You do not need more fuel....just an ECU/tune should do....
You do not need more fuel....just an ECU/tune should do....
11-25-2011, 10:43 AM
#19
Your A/F ratio looks messed up. First the car starts at 14.5:1 (super lean for oem ecu) then it goes to 13:1 (again lean). OEM ecu's like to run slightly over stoichiometry cause it helps the catalytic converts due their job more efficiently.
11-25-2011, 12:56 PM
#20
All motor
11-25-2011, 02:19 PM
#21
Bottom line: the only way to find out what a/f ratio makes power is to be able to make fuel and timing adjustments on the dyno. Jethro may have made 271 whp @ 13.5 a/f @ WOT, but your TL might make the most power @ 13.2 a/f. You'll never know till you try, and you know till you tune on the dyno and physically see those changes as they are made.
11-25-2011, 07:32 PM
#24
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11-26-2011, 02:29 AM
#25
Suzuka Master
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SAE:
Air Temperature: 77F
Absolute Pressure: 29.23 inches Hg
Relative Humidity: 0%
Relative Horsepower : 100%
Air Density: 1.157kg/m3
Relative Air Density: 94.4%
Density Altitude: 1952feet
Virtual Temperature: 77F
Vapor Pressure: 0 inches Hg
Dyno Correction Factor: 1
11-26-2011, 10:43 AM
#26
Looks like your numbers are pretty damn close to SAE, so you're making an honest ~25 whp over stock, which is pretty good. The inches of Mercury are a touch higher than SAE corrects to, but the 22-24% humidity cancels that out.
SAE:
Air Temperature: 77F
Absolute Pressure: 29.23 inches Hg
Relative Humidity: 0%
Relative Horsepower : 100%
Air Density: 1.157kg/m3
Relative Air Density: 94.4%
Density Altitude: 1952feet
Virtual Temperature: 77F
Vapor Pressure: 0 inches Hg
Dyno Correction Factor: 1
SAE:
Air Temperature: 77F
Absolute Pressure: 29.23 inches Hg
Relative Humidity: 0%
Relative Horsepower : 100%
Air Density: 1.157kg/m3
Relative Air Density: 94.4%
Density Altitude: 1952feet
Virtual Temperature: 77F
Vapor Pressure: 0 inches Hg
Dyno Correction Factor: 1
Thanks for the input.. I guess im saving up for the j&r ecu.. My next mod will be ur pulley and possibly ported manifolds.. Any other mods to help me reach my 300 whp ??
11-26-2011, 11:15 PM
#28
I have seen people make power with just a new fuel pressure regulator. It allows you to adjust fuel pressure and give the car more fuel without buying a new ecu setup. I say go for it. It's a cheap upgrade.
11-27-2011, 10:10 AM
#29
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^^^ ?
any links on the research and the install or the dyno's ?
any links on the research and the install or the dyno's ?
11-27-2011, 10:29 AM
#30
^ Just added a fuel pressure regulator http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2455377&page=7. There are more out there that I have seen, but I have to find them amongst other threads and sites.
It seems that the J-series run leaner from the factory. I wonder why?
It seems that the J-series run leaner from the factory. I wonder why?
Last edited by awoc; 11-27-2011 at 10:31 AM.
11-27-2011, 10:37 AM
#31
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^^^ emissions....fuel economy....i can go on LOL
thanks for the link...lemme read it up
thanks for the link...lemme read it up
11-27-2011, 10:12 PM
#33
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^^^ nah bro...one dude who did a J series sway said his injectors were running at 100% and after the fuel regulator he was down to 70%....he could have just gone with bigger injectors 
but either way I dont see any dyno proofs....gotta do some more reading and gotta ask IHC/Inaccurate about it since they have a lot more knowledge....
but either way I dont see any dyno proofs....gotta do some more reading and gotta ask IHC/Inaccurate about it since they have a lot more knowledge....
next is the j&r ecu !! 
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