Cleaned shift solenoid filter screen fixed problem
12-15-2010, 07:37 PM
#41
dont give advice like that!!!
the TL trans with high miles and never changed fluid is a recipe for trans death by using 3x3 method of fluid change
the TL trans with high miles and never changed fluid is a recipe for trans death by using 3x3 method of fluid change
12-16-2010, 11:49 AM
#43
Im just trying to keep facts for noobs clear
other model acura or other brand of car doesnt matter = the TL trans,,especially with lets say 100kmiles on it and no fluid change history,,asking for trouble to do a 3x3
other model acura or other brand of car doesnt matter = the TL trans,,especially with lets say 100kmiles on it and no fluid change history,,asking for trouble to do a 3x3
12-16-2010, 05:09 PM
#45
what is in question total?-
the warmup? I meant the ecu is set to get moving after 1 normal or 2 cold temps minutes, and it holds 1-2 gear rpm higher and longer when dead cold- to get the engine temp up and switch fuel mapping to lean econo mode
If the car sits at idle warming up- its on full rich mode, not getting temp spread thru the block and fluids
remember the old ford or chevy you had to kick the throttle several times after 5 minute warmup at 1800 rpm before the `coil spring temp controlled` choke would drop down at least some to 1200rpm
On the 2 sec delay in gear engagement that acura says is normal-
you get used to it and the one time its really bad news is making a quick 3 point turn with traffic coming- and you're waiting for 1st to engage,,gassing it doesnt make things faster better~
and parking in reverse= I was trying to understand if poster was able to start in R meaning bad nuetral safety switch, or was parking in R with park brake- then starting in N or what??
(note I'm not wearing my glasses and may miss details or totally misunderstand a post)
the warmup? I meant the ecu is set to get moving after 1 normal or 2 cold temps minutes, and it holds 1-2 gear rpm higher and longer when dead cold- to get the engine temp up and switch fuel mapping to lean econo mode
If the car sits at idle warming up- its on full rich mode, not getting temp spread thru the block and fluids
remember the old ford or chevy you had to kick the throttle several times after 5 minute warmup at 1800 rpm before the `coil spring temp controlled` choke would drop down at least some to 1200rpm
On the 2 sec delay in gear engagement that acura says is normal-
you get used to it and the one time its really bad news is making a quick 3 point turn with traffic coming- and you're waiting for 1st to engage,,gassing it doesnt make things faster better~
and parking in reverse= I was trying to understand if poster was able to start in R meaning bad nuetral safety switch, or was parking in R with park brake- then starting in N or what??
(note I'm not wearing my glasses and may miss details or totally misunderstand a post)
What do you mean you park in reverse?
park in Park!!
thats not actually a gear- its a J hook shaped metal arm that grabs onto a gear tooth and holds the trans stopped
waiting 2 minutes in morning warms atf enough to ease that R thunk and hookup
No need for 5 minutes- that screws with the ECU program to get the engine warm by driving
Make sure car is totally stopped before going to D5, it may take a few seconds to engage--thats normal
more than 2 sec and its a trans problem (a danger really,, if you have tried to pull off a quick 3 point turn)
park in Park!!
thats not actually a gear- its a J hook shaped metal arm that grabs onto a gear tooth and holds the trans stopped
waiting 2 minutes in morning warms atf enough to ease that R thunk and hookup
No need for 5 minutes- that screws with the ECU program to get the engine warm by driving
Make sure car is totally stopped before going to D5, it may take a few seconds to engage--thats normal
more than 2 sec and its a trans problem (a danger really,, if you have tried to pull off a quick 3 point turn)
12-16-2010, 05:13 PM
#46
trans rebuilder piggylover says waiting 2 minutes gives trans fluid a chance to warm, makes getting into R easier on cars with clutch wear issues
The Line Pressure prob and more rpm increasing pressure not decreasing,,causes more prob
He says 2 minutes and it should be good to go in R
The Line Pressure prob and more rpm increasing pressure not decreasing,,causes more prob
He says 2 minutes and it should be good to go in R
12-16-2010, 10:24 PM
#47
Drifting
12-17-2010, 10:41 AM
#48
the ecu program is set to warm up 1 minute then the car is moving forward- generating internal engine and cat temps
once you get a few blocks and temp reading shows--it goes to lean cycle mode--where it prefers to operate. Thats how we get the ultra low emission rating
so if left at idle sitting cold- its not getting the heat its expecting according to its program parameters
The owner book says start and go for a reason
Not that its `damaging` the ecu- rather its loading the spark plugs up, putting extra wear on alternator, and not really doing you any favors beyond warming the seat..
which is also hard on the alt when at idle and cold--
alt trying to recharge from overnight loss of juice in cold and starter draw,,you add 30 amps useage with accessories..does that sound like a good idea??
once you get a few blocks and temp reading shows--it goes to lean cycle mode--where it prefers to operate. Thats how we get the ultra low emission rating
so if left at idle sitting cold- its not getting the heat its expecting according to its program parameters
The owner book says start and go for a reason
Not that its `damaging` the ecu- rather its loading the spark plugs up, putting extra wear on alternator, and not really doing you any favors beyond warming the seat..
which is also hard on the alt when at idle and cold--
alt trying to recharge from overnight loss of juice in cold and starter draw,,you add 30 amps useage with accessories..does that sound like a good idea??
12-30-2010, 12:20 PM
#49
1st Gear
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i took my 2000 acura tl to autozone engine light is on they say its the tcc solenoid that stays open. the car runs great just seeing the engine light on scares me. p0740 what can i do to solve this problem?
02-17-2011, 04:16 PM
#50
Original Owner / Oct 1998
I attempted to clean the screens today, but was thwarted by the Transmission Harness Holder bracket #9. 
It's blocking access to the lower two bolts as was mentioned earlier in this topic. Diagram here:
http://.com/4tsvcc4
I removed the single rear bolt but couldn't remove the front portion.Tried moving the front part of the bracket forward, sideways, up, down, no joy. The Helms manual just says to remove it but doesn't mention how.I don't want to break anything. Is it held on by the Linear Solenoid somehow?
TIA
It's blocking access to the lower two bolts as was mentioned earlier in this topic. Diagram here:http://.com/4tsvcc4
I removed the single rear bolt but couldn't remove the front portion.Tried moving the front part of the bracket forward, sideways, up, down, no joy. The Helms manual just says to remove it but doesn't mention how.I don't want to break anything. Is it held on by the Linear Solenoid somehow?
TIA
Last edited by Carbuff; 02-17-2011 at 04:19 PM.
03-23-2011, 02:35 AM
#53
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Pittsburgh
Age: 39
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 99 TL with 126k miles on it. Car started having tranny problems at 104k. When the car is cold, the tranny would shift so hard and would shudder through the gears and it would not shift into 2nd gear at all until it is fully warmed up.
I never had a drain and fill on the tranny before, so I just recently did 2x3 drain over the span of 2 weeks and filled it with ATF-DW1 and the results were amazing! There were so much metal particles on the drain plug and the fluid was deep dirty brown red.
Shifts were so much smoother and I can finally shift into 2nd gear when it's cold. The shudders are still there but only when I shift at around 4-5k RPM. I am probably going to try to clean the screen and do a third drain and fill this weekend and see if the shudder goes away.
I never had a drain and fill on the tranny before, so I just recently did 2x3 drain over the span of 2 weeks and filled it with ATF-DW1 and the results were amazing! There were so much metal particles on the drain plug and the fluid was deep dirty brown red.
Shifts were so much smoother and I can finally shift into 2nd gear when it's cold. The shudders are still there but only when I shift at around 4-5k RPM. I am probably going to try to clean the screen and do a third drain and fill this weekend and see if the shudder goes away.
03-23-2011, 11:43 AM
#54
ck out trans fluid post by gen3 member- I hate cars
many are now running a basic `type F` trans fluid for reduced or removed shudder!
if trans is in good shape you can run `Redline lightweight racing atf`
with our trans age,,trying different things is what keeps them running
if your year has the cleanable shift seloids or the external filter,,clean or replace as able
ck out the DIY thread section- here is the link https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
General Note: If its hard to get into R when cold- let the engine warm 2 minutes, so idle comes down and `line pressure` in the trans is reduced..makes it shift easier
many are now running a basic `type F` trans fluid for reduced or removed shudder!
if trans is in good shape you can run `Redline lightweight racing atf`
with our trans age,,trying different things is what keeps them running
if your year has the cleanable shift seloids or the external filter,,clean or replace as able
ck out the DIY thread section- here is the link https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
General Note: If its hard to get into R when cold- let the engine warm 2 minutes, so idle comes down and `line pressure` in the trans is reduced..makes it shift easier
03-26-2011, 06:57 PM
#55
10th Gear
MAJOR PROPS FOR THIS THREAD!!!! WOW!!!! I almost replaced the transmission. CRAAAAAAAZY! I cleaned the screen and did drain and refiill w tranny fluid... and the car is SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH! THANKS MAN!
03-28-2011, 03:20 AM
#56
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Pittsburgh
Age: 39
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just finished my 3x3 today. Cleaned the solenoid filter, it was really dirty and a bitch to remove. I seem to overtightened one of the bolts and the bolt knda popped loose. Drove around for a bit and very small amounts of fluid was leaking after the drive. Should I get it replaced? Or is it fine to drive it the way it is?
03-28-2011, 11:06 AM
#58
`the bolt kinda popped loose` when it ripped the threads out of the block!!
thats why it leaks- its not sitting flat and sealed
fix it--a leak is a leak,,, and atf is a bad thing to be low on~
thats why it leaks- its not sitting flat and sealed
fix it--a leak is a leak,,, and atf is a bad thing to be low on~
05-13-2011, 06:01 AM
#59
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Everyone. New here. Bought a used 99 TL. 2 day later tranny started slipping. Took to autozone for quick diagnosis. Read was p1705, tranny range switch. Taking it to tranny guy today. Any suggestions or answers, similar problems? Thanks All
05-14-2011, 08:02 PM
#60
Original Owner / Oct 1998
I successfully cleaned my transmission solenoid screens today. Here is the secret to removing the plastic wire harness support and bracket that blocks the three solenoid mounting screws:
The wire harnesses are tightly cable tied to the transmission at the front of the bracket. It is necessary to un-clip the wires in order to move the bracket rearward after the single 10MM mounting bolt is removed.
The front part of the bracket is retained by a T that slips into a groove in a metal support. If the front cable ties are not released the bracket cannot move rearward enough to clear the end of the groove.
Another puzzler is how to remove the solenoid's plug from the bracket. There is a hidden retainer clip UNDER the female socket that must be pulled UP to release. Better to do this BEFORE starting to remove the wire harness, as that will resist rearward movement of the wire bundle, as well.
On the solenoid assembly, remove the rearmost 10MM bolt LAST so that the solenoid assembly can "carry" the bolt out with it. On reassembly, tape that rear bolt to the solenoid base to get it lined up as the assembly is reassembled. (There is no "straight shot" with a ratchet extension on that bolt...don't cross-thread it!).
PS: My well maintained trans still had mostly clean screens even after 170K miles. I drain & fill ATF every two years as specified in the owners manual.
Guess my TC clutches are still OK!
The wire harnesses are tightly cable tied to the transmission at the front of the bracket. It is necessary to un-clip the wires in order to move the bracket rearward after the single 10MM mounting bolt is removed.
The front part of the bracket is retained by a T that slips into a groove in a metal support. If the front cable ties are not released the bracket cannot move rearward enough to clear the end of the groove.
Another puzzler is how to remove the solenoid's plug from the bracket. There is a hidden retainer clip UNDER the female socket that must be pulled UP to release. Better to do this BEFORE starting to remove the wire harness, as that will resist rearward movement of the wire bundle, as well.
On the solenoid assembly, remove the rearmost 10MM bolt LAST so that the solenoid assembly can "carry" the bolt out with it. On reassembly, tape that rear bolt to the solenoid base to get it lined up as the assembly is reassembled. (There is no "straight shot" with a ratchet extension on that bolt...don't cross-thread it!).
PS: My well maintained trans still had mostly clean screens even after 170K miles. I drain & fill ATF every two years as specified in the owners manual.
Guess my TC clutches are still OK!
06-03-2011, 09:59 AM
#62
plan on rebuilding!!!
hard shift hot is often the loose particulate matter from destroyed clutch plates
gets into the torque convertors `outflow filter screens`,,they plug up and no shifting!
wait 15-30 minutes parked and it should fall clear and allow trans operation again
try that and see if it works--so we know if thats the right direction to diagnose
other than that,, look and smell of your current fluid??
hard shift hot is often the loose particulate matter from destroyed clutch plates
gets into the torque convertors `outflow filter screens`,,they plug up and no shifting!
wait 15-30 minutes parked and it should fall clear and allow trans operation again
try that and see if it works--so we know if thats the right direction to diagnose
other than that,, look and smell of your current fluid??
06-03-2011, 12:20 PM
#63
Already check fluid level is good fluid does not smell burnt and color is good. Check engine and tcs lights came on. Checked for codes and got p1739 and p0740. Both shift soleniod codes.
06-03-2011, 12:30 PM
#64
you read the correct acura way of fluid level ck?
--drive 15 minutes on freeway--exit and park -engine off, in park, wipe stick- insert- remove: should read BETWEEN the 2 dots
not at either--between them at that fluid temp
worth cleaning the selenoids since you have codes
diy master list here
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706083
--drive 15 minutes on freeway--exit and park -engine off, in park, wipe stick- insert- remove: should read BETWEEN the 2 dots
not at either--between them at that fluid temp
worth cleaning the selenoids since you have codes
diy master list here
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706083
06-03-2011, 12:30 PM
#65
drain 1 qt fluid to look for contaminents
06-03-2011, 01:07 PM
#67
I drove for about an hr and waited for the car to started shifting hard before I pulled over and checked fluids (right at line between dots). So this weekend I'm gonna drain some fluid and look for contaminants then clean solenoid to see what happens.
06-03-2011, 05:48 PM
#68
I think you are low on fluid
the book method says: from cold, at 15 minutes freeway drive fluid temp it should read `between the dots`
after an hour there is a lot more temp, which raises the indicated level,
probably to the max dot would be my best guess~
1 quart drain of fluid is my suggestion just to see what comes out..
hopefully in that time you can wipe the magnetic drain plug and stick it back in!
catch 3 ounces as it drains and send to blackstone labs for analysis
replace lost fluid with the new honda dw1 fluid, or if you have other high tech brand waiting in the shelf...
depends on what the selenoids look like to figure 2nd step to take
a full 3.4 qt drain...
the book method says: from cold, at 15 minutes freeway drive fluid temp it should read `between the dots`
after an hour there is a lot more temp, which raises the indicated level,
probably to the max dot would be my best guess~
1 quart drain of fluid is my suggestion just to see what comes out..
hopefully in that time you can wipe the magnetic drain plug and stick it back in!
catch 3 ounces as it drains and send to blackstone labs for analysis
replace lost fluid with the new honda dw1 fluid, or if you have other high tech brand waiting in the shelf...
depends on what the selenoids look like to figure 2nd step to take
a full 3.4 qt drain...
06-07-2011, 02:00 PM
#69
Well guys I tried to clean the solenoid this weekend and couldn't get that bolt on the bottom out. I couldn't find my socket extension and swivel. How much do you think a shop would charge me to take it out and clean it for me and also change the fluid? I'm supplying my own fluid....
P.S Anyone in jersey wants to do it?
P.S Anyone in jersey wants to do it?
06-07-2011, 06:28 PM
#70
got to be cheaper to buy the needed tools than the 100 bucks an hour that shops want!
06-08-2011, 06:44 AM
#71
Drifting
06-13-2011, 08:50 AM
#72
10th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[quote=markk;9273400]Sorry I did not know how to post pics
I just cleaned it with a toothpick and the faucet then used carb cleaner .
I took out the battery and the rubber intake to get to it.
The 3rd bolt was difficult to get to but I used a collection of extensions and a magnet to get it in and out.
PS. no fluid leaked out (well very little anyway )because it is so high on the transmission
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[
Hi- Beside the one you took out to clean is that the only one in this car?
I just cleaned it with a toothpick and the faucet then used carb cleaner .
I took out the battery and the rubber intake to get to it.
The 3rd bolt was difficult to get to but I used a collection of extensions and a magnet to get it in and out.
PS. no fluid leaked out (well very little anyway )because it is so high on the transmission
[IMG]
[/IMG] [Hi- Beside the one you took out to clean is that the only one in this car?
06-13-2011, 02:34 PM
#73
Mr blurrycam! 
06-13-2011, 06:20 PM
#75
Original Owner / Oct 1998
Slight surging RESOLVED.
06-15-2011, 06:20 PM
#76
Well I finally cleaned the solenoid this weekend but didn't change the fluid cause I couldn't get the car high enough to get under it and drain fluid. Drove it all week and it was shifting fine even the cel light went off but this morning started doing it again which really pisses me off. I have 293k on vehicle tranny has about 85k had new tranny put in back in 09. Would it be wise to have a flush done or should I just do a drain and fill? Gonna have to clean solenoid again probably doing it tomorrow while I'm at work.
06-15-2011, 08:19 PM
#77
Original Owner / Oct 1998
Well I finally cleaned the solenoid this weekend but didn't change the fluid cause I couldn't get the car high enough to get under it and drain fluid. Drove it all week and it was shifting fine even the cel light went off but this morning started doing it again which really pisses me off. I have 293k on vehicle tranny has about 85k had new tranny put in back in 09. Would it be wise to have a flush done or should I just do a drain and fill? Gonna have to clean solenoid again probably doing it tomorrow while I'm at work.
First of all, don't bother cleaning the solenoid screen again...after all, remember Albert Einstein's definition of insanity: Doing the same thing over and over but expecting different results!
Why don't you change the fluid 3x using the drain and fill method? That replaces about 90% of it. Use the new OE Honda fluid DW-1.
Who replaced the trans 85K ago? If it wasn't a dealer there may be non_Honda ATF in there, and it doesn't last. Even if it IS Honda ATF, it's supposed to be replaced ever couple of years or 30 - 35K miles.
Good Luck
06-16-2011, 01:00 PM
#78
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
line pressure control solenoids
Thanks to everyone who has posted. The information has been invaluable. I was able to get my sisters 99tl going again. Had to do it twice cuz the first time I went through the tranny I got the reverse collar in upside down. BAsically I replaced filter and clutches and put it back in. It still had one nagging problem: it would lurch when going into first or second but only when cold. After speaking with several builders and studying the service manual I decided that the problem was in the line pressure control solenoids. One of the builders told me that it is never the solenoids but the screens under them. This is a really easy fix. The line pressure solenoids are easy to get to once you get the battery tray out. They are on top of a plate held in place with six bolts. Once you get them out (one black connector and one brown one) you will notice four pipes sticking up out of the case. The one off to the side by itself is a vent. Ignore it. The other three are easily lifted out with only your fingers. Each one has a small screen in the bottom. They are different lengths but don't worry, they will all protrude the same amount when properly re-installed. I soaked them in gasoline for a few minutes then blew them out with an air gun. The car now runs perfectly. Lesson: Honda transmissions have hundreds of little tiny screens in them. There is one in nearly every passage. CLEAN THEM ALL
hope this helps someone.
Don
hope this helps someone.
Don
06-18-2011, 06:15 AM
#80
Original Owner / Oct 1998
If you are talking a single drain & fill on the '99 4 speed auto, it's THREE quarts. I think the specs are a little over that (3.1 qt) so I always have an extra quart "just in case". (I tend to spill/dribble...just ask my wife)
