1999 Acura TL overheating
#1
1999 Acura TL overheating
My 1999 Acura TL overheats. I put water in it daily. The first time I noticed the overheating was after a hose blew off when my dad was driving it to work. He was pushing it at about 80 mph. Anyway, the temp needle will fluctuate while I am driving. It will go up when I am moving at speeds lower than 40-45 mph (3/4-in the red), but once I am going those speeds usually it will go down (just below 1/2). It mostly stays up when I haven't put water in it for a couple of days and the reserve is about halfway empty when i open it up. My dad says its a head gasket, but there are some forums that say its a sensor. My question is which one is it most likely to be?
#2
It's hard for anyone to diagnose exactly from behind a computer, but it sure sounds like a headgasket. Aluminum heads don't like getting overheated. When you say adding water are you really just adding plain water? That will cause overheating in itself.
#5
Water may be ok in a pinch but can't be left in the system. It may be boiling plus it expands and maybe the reason the hose blew off originally. Also if the radiator has been running low and you haven't been bleeding the system when topping it off you may have air pockets in the cooling system that can also cause overheating
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savannahbond (08-25-2014)
#6
Well I guess I am going to buy some coolant and learn how to "bleed" it tomorrow to see if that helps at all.. I have never even heard of "bleeding the system". Thanks so much for your help.
#7
Moderator
First Diagnose your Radiator Fans to know it they are working.
Second Flush your system cooling system and Add PURE Anti-Freeze as Aluminum Heads don't like plain water one bit.
Third Replace your Thermostat and Radiator Cap
Fourth Check your Temp Sensor if Temperature is still fluctuating.
Fifth If everything else fails, Check your Water Pump.
Second Flush your system cooling system and Add PURE Anti-Freeze as Aluminum Heads don't like plain water one bit.
Third Replace your Thermostat and Radiator Cap
Fourth Check your Temp Sensor if Temperature is still fluctuating.
Fifth If everything else fails, Check your Water Pump.
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savannahbond (08-25-2014)
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#8
Fans are working, entire radiator has been replaced, thermostat has been replaced twice. New hoses, new water pump. all that is left is the antifreeze and flushing the system.
What antifreeze brand would you suggest? All owners have their preferences (I don't have one because I don't really know much about cars except for the fact that it is messing up and I need help). I'm trying to exhaust all other possibilities before forking out a crap load of money on head gaskets...
What antifreeze brand would you suggest? All owners have their preferences (I don't have one because I don't really know much about cars except for the fact that it is messing up and I need help). I'm trying to exhaust all other possibilities before forking out a crap load of money on head gaskets...
#9
Moderator
I would use Honda/Acura Type II A/F but that's just me.. I believe PRESTON High Life A/F (ORANGE CAP) is similar to OEM and wont damage your Aluminum Heads.
I'm pretty sure you don't have damage in your head gaskets. First Diagnose to that is to look for FOAM in your OIL..
Check your oil with the Dipstick and if the oil looks like "Choco-milk" you have a Head Gasket leak.. Also smoke is to be expected and in some cases Missfires.
I'm pretty sure you don't have damage in your head gaskets. First Diagnose to that is to look for FOAM in your OIL..
Check your oil with the Dipstick and if the oil looks like "Choco-milk" you have a Head Gasket leak.. Also smoke is to be expected and in some cases Missfires.
#12
Check engine light is on but the only time it feels like its holding back or sluggish is when i put my foot in it and the transmission jerks (which isn't very often). I try to take it easy on it.
#13
Moderator
Go to your nearest Autozone and have your codes read (Its free) the OBDII port is below the +12 port in the Middle Console, just in front of the Gear Shift Lever.
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savannahbond (08-26-2014)
#14
Is this the Prestone Antifreeze that you mentioned before?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0496&ppt=C0059
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0496&ppt=C0059
#16
Yeah, get a quality brand coolant formulated for import alloys. Should be a 50:50 ratio to distilled water. Make sure that there's no leaks, have the cooling system pressure checked if in doubt. The system must be properly purged of any air pockets. Check that both fans are activating. The "DIY" sticky should have all the info needed on the procedure.
#17
Is this the Prestone Antifreeze that you mentioned before?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0496&ppt=C0059
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0496&ppt=C0059
I do agree with skirmich that the honda stuff is the prettiest.
#19
Racer
DON'T USE THIS COOLANT! It is really horrible stuff. It doesn't even work well in the gm cars it was designed for. Do a little research on DEX-COOL, and you'll find out about lawsuits against gm, gm's multiple attempts at better gaskets, sludging problems etc. I don't know if there's much out there on it pitting aluminum, but we've seen that as well. Get honda coolant, or a long-life multi-vehicle coolant. The ones that are yellow, and have a zerex G-05 spec. will work well.
I do agree with skirmich that the honda stuff is the prettiest.
I do agree with skirmich that the honda stuff is the prettiest.
By nature, you cooling system should be able to handle just water. However, in modern cars (especially when it says use 50-50 coolant water premixed only) these systems are designed to work only in a very narrow margin. Deviate from what is suggested, and the results could be catastrophic.
Using the A/C puts a tremendous load on the engine.
I highly doubt it is a head gasket. TLs rarely blow these. Not impossible, but from what I've read you've eliminated that possibility with a good amount of certainty.
From what you've described, it seems like at the lower speeds you're overheating more than higher speeds. When you say you keep adding water, is it because the level is going down? A leak is probably to blame in that case. If not, I would check around the grill and radiator. Chances are you have a lot of debris preventing airflow. This is actually responsible for a lot more over heats than you'd think.
But, since you've replaced the radiator, I doubt that's an issue. Did you install a new radiator cap as well? If those things go bad, it can cause overheat issues.
One last tip: Try to avoid mixing coolants. Some coolants have been known to not mingle very well chemically. Who knows what harmful effects a concoction like that will have. When in doubt, just know you can never go wrong with putting Honda fluid in a Honda. /
Last edited by Yikes; 08-26-2014 at 11:43 AM.
#20
Moderator
DON'T USE THIS COOLANT! It is really horrible stuff. It doesn't even work well in the gm cars it was designed for. Do a little research on DEX-COOL, and you'll find out about lawsuits against gm, gm's multiple attempts at better gaskets, sludging problems etc. I don't know if there's much out there on it pitting aluminum, but we've seen that as well. Get honda coolant, or a long-life multi-vehicle coolant. The ones that are yellow, and have a zerex G-05 spec. will work well.
I do agree with skirmich that the honda stuff is the prettiest.
I do agree with skirmich that the honda stuff is the prettiest.
I've used it on many Imports with no issues... But I Still strongly recommend OEM over any aftermarket all year..
#21
Eurotrash
From what you've described, it seems like at the lower speeds you're overheating more than higher speeds. When you say you keep adding water, is it because the level is going down? A leak is probably to blame in that case. If not, I would check around the grill and radiator. Chances are you have a lot of debris preventing airflow. This is actually responsible for a lot more over heats than you'd think.
But, since you've replaced the radiator, I doubt that's an issue. Did you install a new radiator cap as well? If those things go bad, it can cause overheat issues.
But, since you've replaced the radiator, I doubt that's an issue. Did you install a new radiator cap as well? If those things go bad, it can cause overheat issues.
#22
A few years later, I started hearing about and seeing problems, so I undid them all. Fortunately, no damage happened on any of the stuff I did.
#23
Racer
#24
Moderator
A/F would be the last thing to blame on a 96 GM Car...
I still remember my 86 Pontiac 6000... I almost overhauled all the engine and the overheat would not go away... When I finally got rid of the car (Junkyard) it was still overheating (Around 2004?).
Funny thing about GM in the 86 Pontiac they decided to install the Coil-packs beneath/top? the headers and in Arizona where I was living at the time, they overheated and decided to just turn the car off while driving. GM engineering at it Best! They didn't think their car will be sold anywhere with +100*F outside. They fixed the issue later on by installing the coil packs on top of the drive belt like in my MonteCarlo SS.
I still remember my 86 Pontiac 6000... I almost overhauled all the engine and the overheat would not go away... When I finally got rid of the car (Junkyard) it was still overheating (Around 2004?).
Funny thing about GM in the 86 Pontiac they decided to install the Coil-packs beneath/top? the headers and in Arizona where I was living at the time, they overheated and decided to just turn the car off while driving. GM engineering at it Best! They didn't think their car will be sold anywhere with +100*F outside. They fixed the issue later on by installing the coil packs on top of the drive belt like in my MonteCarlo SS.
#25
Maybe it wasn't really overheating. (according to gm) I remember a lot of the fwd gm cars, (I think they were "x" cars, many of which quickly became ex cars) that had cooling fans that turned on at 245deg.F. Try checking one of them with a thermometer in the radiator. Without pressure, they would boil before the fans came on.
Chrysler and ford had equally dumb and dumber stuff.
Chrysler and ford had equally dumb and dumber stuff.
#26
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Let it idle with the hood closed, keep an eye on the coolant temp. As soon as it goes over the normal range listen for the fans if they are running.
Now turn it off open the hood and look for leaks.
If no leaks then theres an electrical issue or the system needs to be burped.
Now turn it off open the hood and look for leaks.
If no leaks then theres an electrical issue or the system needs to be burped.
#27
is the hose inside cap of radiator res bottle on secure? hose system from rad to bottle is good- no leaks- and as said cap is new? with new rad they should have cleaned ac condenser- but theses days = probably not
look for debris in there,,think NASCAR--paper blocking grill- temp skyrockets
If you are adding fluid due to loss- you MUST do a correct burping of cooling system, make sure heater is on hot with cabin fan running or you mess it up
look for debris in there,,think NASCAR--paper blocking grill- temp skyrockets
If you are adding fluid due to loss- you MUST do a correct burping of cooling system, make sure heater is on hot with cabin fan running or you mess it up
#28
Moderator
Maybe it wasn't really overheating. (according to gm) I remember a lot of the fwd gm cars, (I think they were "x" cars, many of which quickly became ex cars) that had cooling fans that turned on at 245deg.F. Try checking one of them with a thermometer in the radiator. Without pressure, they would boil before the fans came on.
Chrysler and ford had equally dumb and dumber stuff.
Chrysler and ford had equally dumb and dumber stuff.
Good stuff.. The car is in car heaven now though...
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Jett (09-01-2019)
#30
1999 Acura TL 3 2 leaking coolant front of motor on passenger side
Hi everyone, new here but I've been reading these posts for years. I have a 1999 acura tl that started losing coolant. I maintain very well. I noticed today coolant leaking finally under the car in the front of motor a steady drip. I dont have a lift and the best of tools but I've been able to do a lot on this car. I'd normally take the plastic shields and see where exactly but I wanted to ask if anyone has had this similar leak? In reading the posts I see there are heater connections but they seem to be closer to the interior of car. This leak is very far from that area and not leaking in the car at all. I have not overheated and all is well but with a steady drip I can't go far. I do notice it getting hotter than usual and I've turned the heat on full blast to make it go down but not overheated but I'm destined to with a leak. I very much appreciate any and all advice that can save me time and money - it is now 20 years old.... I have 180k miles on it. Possibly selling it soon- it's been well cared for - maintained well with records never seen snow - florida car always. No idea what it's worth but I was offered 700 bucks as a trade ha ha. I'll send photos if anyone wants - its jade green, tan leather- been a great car - I've had since 07. I attached a photo of leak but if it allows I'll post a pic of car too. Thanks everyone .....
Jet
Jet
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