DIY Replacing the field coil on the Air conditioning compressor
07-11-2012, 01:13 AM
#1
DIY Replacing the field coil on the Air conditioning compressor
So if your AC stop working, following the 3 troubleshooting step and it should clear up majority of the common problem causing the compressor to not work.
#1 Check the No. 20 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
#2 Test the 2 relays for the AC in the fuse box, those have problems quite often and its a simple/cheap fix. one of the sympton of bad relay is when you turn the AC on (center info display read AC on) only one of the radiator fan would run. You can try to jump the relay socket to force the compressor to run, alternately if you don't feel comfortable jumping the relay sockets, there are about 4 relay that are the same partnumber, mark each of them with a pen or sharpie so you know which goes where. Then you can swap one of the none AC relay of the same partnumber with one of the AC relay to see if this fix the problem. if it is a bad relay, you can just replace it and problem sovled
if neither #1 or #2 is the problem, then the 3rd most likely cause would be a bad Field coil
Partnumber 38924-RWC-A01
It is possible to switch the field coil without purging the AC system.
unfortunately I don't have any pix as I didn't want to get camera dirty and I was working by myself.
If its a bad coil, and you try to get it fix by the dealer, they will want replace the compressor, which run somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000-1600 at the dealer and $600-$800 by a local wrench
So let's save some $$$ and just DIY
To test the field coil, follow these steps.
1) move the coolant reservior, to get it loose, its just a screw/clip near the center and another big push tab on the passenger side. do NOT need to unplug the hose!
2) remove the passenger side radiator fan, unplug the connector, and then its just 2 bolts/screws holding it in place, un screw the bolt/screw and slide the fan back(toward rear of the car) and up. this give us access to the field coil
3) there's a red wire and green wire on the top of the compressor, the red wire have a long black piece in the middle. its a connector between the coil and the thermal protector. unplug the coil, its a pin type terminal and the separation point is very near the passenger side where the red wire and long black section meet. ie about 90% of the long black section toward the driver side belong to the thermal protector connector, the 10% toward the passenger side are part of the field coil terminal I spent a stupid 10min trying to figure out how to unplug this as I didn't want to risk ripping the wire out of the terminal crimp.
4) Check the resistance of the coil, using a multi meter test the red pin terminal from the coil, the ground should connect to the body of the compressor. Factory spec is 3.15 to 3.45 ohm at 68f. Mine was reading 4.8 ohm and above 90 degree would not engage the clutch till the car is complely cool off.
5) Check the clearance gap between the pulley and the AC clutch. Use a feeler gauge (fairly cheap to buy one from autozone or similar store), the factory spec is 0.35mm to 0.65mm. If the gap is too small you may need to add more shim between the pulley and the clutch vice versa if the gap is too big, you may need to remove shims, if there are already no shims, then you probably need to replace the clutch as it may have worn out, Partnumber 38900-RZA-014.
To replace the field coil, follow these steps
1) loosen the passenger side front wheel nuts
2) jack up the car from the center front jack point, use car stands on the front driver/passenger sides jack point, then remove the jack so you have room to work. note that with a cheap 2 ton jack and jacking up the front center point, the wheel may still be in contact with the ground that's fine.
3) remove the passenger side front wheel, this give us room to work.
4) remove the splashguard/skid plate instruction w/ pix in this thread half way down
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/diy-%96-add-power-steering-replaceable-inline-magnetic-filter-828859/
5) loosen/remove the timing belt, pretty easy actually, the RDX have a auto tensioner, its kind of just spring loaded, just get a loaner serpentine belt tool from autozone, and use the right socket from your own socket wrench set. mount the tool to the tensioner and yank the tool toward the front of the car with one hand and at the same time loosen the belt with your other hand
6) unplug the compressor, then loosen the compressor, its 4 bolt mounting it to the engine, with the splash guard removed you should be able to reach the 2 bottom bolt from underneath the car and the 2 top bolt from the hood. leave the rubber hose on! those are the freon line, we aren't purging the system so leave them on! the torque spec on the 2 top bolts are 16lb/ft and the 2 bottom bolts are 32.5lb/ft
7) This is kind of tricky, and i must warn that you should be careful and not to brute force this. It is possible to actually to move the compressor up to the hood! shift it up and driver side first and slowly finesse the compressor, tricky part is to squeeze it thorugh the big coolant hose from the engine and a smaller one from the radiator. watch carefully to make sure you aren't crimping or bending the feon line too much!
8) once you get it up to the hood area, there was a mounting frame where the coolant reservior use to go, its convinent to hook the top freon line metal part to this mounting frame.
9) un-do the nut holding the clutch to the pulley, you will need to borrow a AC clutch holder tool from autozone Part Number: 27000
note the torque spec for this nut is 18.8 lb/ft
10) remove the snap ring
11) now is the fun part, you need to remove the pulley. You need the following 2 tools from autozone: 27001 and 27008
note you NEED 27008, as the jaw from the 27001 won't fit the pulley, I found out the hardway.
12) remove the 2nd snap ring, note that this one is quite deeply recessed and a small snap ring pilers like autozone 25012 will not be able to reach it
13) unscrew the grounding green wire and the clamp holding both the red/green wire to to compressor on the top of the compressor near the pulley.
14) you should be able to just slide out the field coil
15) install the new coil, re do the clamp and reattach the green grounding wire.
16) do everything in reverse and you should be done!
#1 Check the No. 20 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
#2 Test the 2 relays for the AC in the fuse box, those have problems quite often and its a simple/cheap fix. one of the sympton of bad relay is when you turn the AC on (center info display read AC on) only one of the radiator fan would run. You can try to jump the relay socket to force the compressor to run, alternately if you don't feel comfortable jumping the relay sockets, there are about 4 relay that are the same partnumber, mark each of them with a pen or sharpie so you know which goes where. Then you can swap one of the none AC relay of the same partnumber with one of the AC relay to see if this fix the problem. if it is a bad relay, you can just replace it and problem sovled
if neither #1 or #2 is the problem, then the 3rd most likely cause would be a bad Field coil
Partnumber 38924-RWC-A01
It is possible to switch the field coil without purging the AC system.
unfortunately I don't have any pix as I didn't want to get camera dirty and I was working by myself.
If its a bad coil, and you try to get it fix by the dealer, they will want replace the compressor, which run somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000-1600 at the dealer and $600-$800 by a local wrench
So let's save some $$$ and just DIY
To test the field coil, follow these steps.
1) move the coolant reservior, to get it loose, its just a screw/clip near the center and another big push tab on the passenger side. do NOT need to unplug the hose!
2) remove the passenger side radiator fan, unplug the connector, and then its just 2 bolts/screws holding it in place, un screw the bolt/screw and slide the fan back(toward rear of the car) and up. this give us access to the field coil
3) there's a red wire and green wire on the top of the compressor, the red wire have a long black piece in the middle. its a connector between the coil and the thermal protector. unplug the coil, its a pin type terminal and the separation point is very near the passenger side where the red wire and long black section meet. ie about 90% of the long black section toward the driver side belong to the thermal protector connector, the 10% toward the passenger side are part of the field coil terminal I spent a stupid 10min trying to figure out how to unplug this as I didn't want to risk ripping the wire out of the terminal crimp.
4) Check the resistance of the coil, using a multi meter test the red pin terminal from the coil, the ground should connect to the body of the compressor. Factory spec is 3.15 to 3.45 ohm at 68f. Mine was reading 4.8 ohm and above 90 degree would not engage the clutch till the car is complely cool off.
5) Check the clearance gap between the pulley and the AC clutch. Use a feeler gauge (fairly cheap to buy one from autozone or similar store), the factory spec is 0.35mm to 0.65mm. If the gap is too small you may need to add more shim between the pulley and the clutch vice versa if the gap is too big, you may need to remove shims, if there are already no shims, then you probably need to replace the clutch as it may have worn out, Partnumber 38900-RZA-014.
To replace the field coil, follow these steps
1) loosen the passenger side front wheel nuts
2) jack up the car from the center front jack point, use car stands on the front driver/passenger sides jack point, then remove the jack so you have room to work. note that with a cheap 2 ton jack and jacking up the front center point, the wheel may still be in contact with the ground that's fine.
3) remove the passenger side front wheel, this give us room to work.
4) remove the splashguard/skid plate instruction w/ pix in this thread half way down
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/diy-%96-add-power-steering-replaceable-inline-magnetic-filter-828859/
5) loosen/remove the timing belt, pretty easy actually, the RDX have a auto tensioner, its kind of just spring loaded, just get a loaner serpentine belt tool from autozone, and use the right socket from your own socket wrench set. mount the tool to the tensioner and yank the tool toward the front of the car with one hand and at the same time loosen the belt with your other hand
6) unplug the compressor, then loosen the compressor, its 4 bolt mounting it to the engine, with the splash guard removed you should be able to reach the 2 bottom bolt from underneath the car and the 2 top bolt from the hood. leave the rubber hose on! those are the freon line, we aren't purging the system so leave them on! the torque spec on the 2 top bolts are 16lb/ft and the 2 bottom bolts are 32.5lb/ft
7) This is kind of tricky, and i must warn that you should be careful and not to brute force this. It is possible to actually to move the compressor up to the hood! shift it up and driver side first and slowly finesse the compressor, tricky part is to squeeze it thorugh the big coolant hose from the engine and a smaller one from the radiator. watch carefully to make sure you aren't crimping or bending the feon line too much!
8) once you get it up to the hood area, there was a mounting frame where the coolant reservior use to go, its convinent to hook the top freon line metal part to this mounting frame.
9) un-do the nut holding the clutch to the pulley, you will need to borrow a AC clutch holder tool from autozone Part Number: 27000
note the torque spec for this nut is 18.8 lb/ft
10) remove the snap ring
11) now is the fun part, you need to remove the pulley. You need the following 2 tools from autozone: 27001 and 27008
note you NEED 27008, as the jaw from the 27001 won't fit the pulley, I found out the hardway.
12) remove the 2nd snap ring, note that this one is quite deeply recessed and a small snap ring pilers like autozone 25012 will not be able to reach it
13) unscrew the grounding green wire and the clamp holding both the red/green wire to to compressor on the top of the compressor near the pulley.
14) you should be able to just slide out the field coil
15) install the new coil, re do the clamp and reattach the green grounding wire.
16) do everything in reverse and you should be done!
Last edited by bit359; 07-11-2012 at 01:17 AM.
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valdito (06-16-2015)
07-11-2012, 11:39 AM
#2
Tools needed
Autozone loaners:
27115: Sepertine belt tool
27000: AC Clutch holder
27001: AC Clutch pulley puller
27008: AC Clutch puller jaw
Other tools
Socket wrench set
Torque wrench: if you want to set the torque precisely (autozone have loaner if you don't have one)
Multi meter: to measure the field coil resistance
Jack and car stands
Flat and phillips head screw drivers
Snap ring pilers
Feeler gauges
Parts needed if the coil is bad
38924-RWC-A01 Field coil set ~$70 online, ~$100+ walk in at the dealer
Autozone loaners:
27115: Sepertine belt tool
27000: AC Clutch holder
27001: AC Clutch pulley puller
27008: AC Clutch puller jaw
Other tools
Socket wrench set
Torque wrench: if you want to set the torque precisely (autozone have loaner if you don't have one)
Multi meter: to measure the field coil resistance
Jack and car stands
Flat and phillips head screw drivers
Snap ring pilers
Feeler gauges
Parts needed if the coil is bad
38924-RWC-A01 Field coil set ~$70 online, ~$100+ walk in at the dealer
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valdito (06-16-2015)
07-11-2012, 07:58 PM
#3
A picture of the compressor, already unbolted but still near the bottom,
with the coolant reservoir moved and the radiator fan removed.
You can see the pin terminal for the coil, this is the terminal you want to measure the resistance
and a picture of of the compressor moved up to the top of the hood, allow for easier working, note the freon line is hooked to the mounting bracket for the coolant reservior, and the pulley is already removed.
with the coolant reservoir moved and the radiator fan removed.
You can see the pin terminal for the coil, this is the terminal you want to measure the resistance
and a picture of of the compressor moved up to the top of the hood, allow for easier working, note the freon line is hooked to the mounting bracket for the coolant reservior, and the pulley is already removed.
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ATS_Scott (08-28-2012)
07-13-2012, 02:38 AM
#4
couple more bit of advice.
1) To get even more working room, the compressor once you moved it up to the top of the hood, can actually be move further to the passenger side, then you can twist the pulley toward the front and upward, and can rest it between the alternator and the radiator
2) while moving the compressor around be sure not to damge the radiator or the connector/harness on the alternator
3) if the field coil won't come off easily after you remove the 2nd snap ring, it may rusted, just tap it with a hammer, mine came off after about 5 taps, on a scale of 1-10 (10 being hardest almight wack) for how hard I tapped, I would rate them about a 3-5.
1) To get even more working room, the compressor once you moved it up to the top of the hood, can actually be move further to the passenger side, then you can twist the pulley toward the front and upward, and can rest it between the alternator and the radiator
2) while moving the compressor around be sure not to damge the radiator or the connector/harness on the alternator
3) if the field coil won't come off easily after you remove the 2nd snap ring, it may rusted, just tap it with a hammer, mine came off after about 5 taps, on a scale of 1-10 (10 being hardest almight wack) for how hard I tapped, I would rate them about a 3-5.
07-18-2012, 11:58 AM
#5
1 last mystery to add.
the service manual stated the field coil should be 3.15-3.45 Ohm at 68f, where I measured my old coil at 4.7ohm at 75-85f, when my new coil arrived, I also measured the new coil at 4.7ohm
But I installed the new coil anyway and it has since worked fine, even in 100 degree day where before I replace the coil, on 100 degree days the RDX AC clutch would not engage.
A day after I replaced the coil, I had the idea to bake the old coil in the oven, I baked it at 250f (lowest my oven will go) for 15 mins and i measured the resistance (careful its hot!) at 5.8ohm. Unfortunately it did not occur to me to bake the new coil before I install it to get a comparison reading
the service manual stated the field coil should be 3.15-3.45 Ohm at 68f, where I measured my old coil at 4.7ohm at 75-85f, when my new coil arrived, I also measured the new coil at 4.7ohm
But I installed the new coil anyway and it has since worked fine, even in 100 degree day where before I replace the coil, on 100 degree days the RDX AC clutch would not engage.
A day after I replaced the coil, I had the idea to bake the old coil in the oven, I baked it at 250f (lowest my oven will go) for 15 mins and i measured the resistance (careful its hot!) at 5.8ohm. Unfortunately it did not occur to me to bake the new coil before I install it to get a comparison reading
08-28-2012, 09:05 AM
#6
Excellent write-up!
My wife's RDX has had some very intermittent ac problems this summer. Every time I would look at it it would start working again before I could find a problem, so I assume it was a relay on its way out. Last night it was working great, she stopped for a sec, and when restarted, it quit for good.
All relays check out, I swapped them back and forth, same thing, no clutch spinning. I checked resistance on the coil, and it's open, no resistance at all. fuses are good, and we have 120psi pressure H and L. So now just waiting on the dealership to get the field coil in stock.
They gave me a P/N of 38924-RYE-A01, for a 2007 RDX field coil.
Is that correct? I went ahead and got the clutch too (P/N 38900-RCA-A01, it was in stock), and the one they handed me looks very different, with a bigger pulley, so now I suspect the field coil P/N may be wrong. But It won't be here until tomorrow. I'm heading back to the dealership now to check, but thought I'd post here first.
My wife's RDX has had some very intermittent ac problems this summer. Every time I would look at it it would start working again before I could find a problem, so I assume it was a relay on its way out. Last night it was working great, she stopped for a sec, and when restarted, it quit for good.
All relays check out, I swapped them back and forth, same thing, no clutch spinning. I checked resistance on the coil, and it's open, no resistance at all. fuses are good, and we have 120psi pressure H and L. So now just waiting on the dealership to get the field coil in stock.
They gave me a P/N of 38924-RYE-A01, for a 2007 RDX field coil.
Is that correct? I went ahead and got the clutch too (P/N 38900-RCA-A01, it was in stock), and the one they handed me looks very different, with a bigger pulley, so now I suspect the field coil P/N may be wrong. But It won't be here until tomorrow. I'm heading back to the dealership now to check, but thought I'd post here first.
08-28-2012, 09:15 AM
#7
Excellent write-up!
My wife's RDX has had some very intermittent ac problems this summer. Every time I would look at it it would start working again before I could find a problem, so I assume it was a relay on its way out. Last night it was working great, she stopped for a sec, and when restarted, it quit for good.
All relays check out, I swapped them back and forth, same thing, no clutch spinning. I checked resistance on the coil, and it's open, no resistance at all. fuses are good, and we have 120psi pressure H and L. So now just waiting on the dealership to get the field coil in stock.
They gave me a P/N of 38924-RYE-A01, for a 2007 RDX field coil.
Is that correct? I went ahead and got the clutch too (P/N 38900-RCA-A01, it was in stock), and the one they handed me looks very different, with a bigger pulley, so now I suspect the field coil P/N may be wrong. But It won't be here until tomorrow. I'm heading back to the dealership now to check, but thought I'd post here first.
My wife's RDX has had some very intermittent ac problems this summer. Every time I would look at it it would start working again before I could find a problem, so I assume it was a relay on its way out. Last night it was working great, she stopped for a sec, and when restarted, it quit for good.
All relays check out, I swapped them back and forth, same thing, no clutch spinning. I checked resistance on the coil, and it's open, no resistance at all. fuses are good, and we have 120psi pressure H and L. So now just waiting on the dealership to get the field coil in stock.
They gave me a P/N of 38924-RYE-A01, for a 2007 RDX field coil.
Is that correct? I went ahead and got the clutch too (P/N 38900-RCA-A01, it was in stock), and the one they handed me looks very different, with a bigger pulley, so now I suspect the field coil P/N may be wrong. But It won't be here until tomorrow. I'm heading back to the dealership now to check, but thought I'd post here first.
38924-RYE-A01, using google search online, seem to be the coil for Pilot/Ridgeline/MDX, and not the RDX, I would recommend you question your dealer and have them double check.
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ATS_Scott (08-28-2012)
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08-28-2012, 09:27 AM
#8
ok, the dealership goofed up and got me the wrong parts. The good news is the correct parts will be here this afternoon. They actually called to let me know, before I had a chance to head back over there, and they are bringing the correct stuff to me.
01-10-2013, 12:58 PM
#9
Awesome write-up. I noticed that sometimes the AC on my 2007 RDX doesn't feel cold at all and then I got the letter saying Acura is extending the warranty for the field coil and AC clutch. Unfortunately I have a high mileage RDX and it has over 100K miles already so the extended warranty won't help me.
Thanks to your write-up I will attempt to replace the field coil myself. I do have 1 question though, the AC clutch needs to be removed to replace the coil right? So since I'm going through the hassle of replacing the coil, I might as well replace the AC cluth too while I'm at it right?
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
Thanks to your write-up I will attempt to replace the field coil myself. I do have 1 question though, the AC clutch needs to be removed to replace the coil right? So since I'm going through the hassle of replacing the coil, I might as well replace the AC cluth too while I'm at it right?
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
01-10-2013, 09:30 PM
#10
Awesome write-up. I noticed that sometimes the AC on my 2007 RDX doesn't feel cold at all and then I got the letter saying Acura is extending the warranty for the field coil and AC clutch. Unfortunately I have a high mileage RDX and it has over 100K miles already so the extended warranty won't help me.
Thanks to your write-up I will attempt to replace the field coil myself. I do have 1 question though, the AC clutch needs to be removed to replace the coil right? So since I'm going through the hassle of replacing the coil, I might as well replace the AC cluth too while I'm at it right?
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
Thanks to your write-up I will attempt to replace the field coil myself. I do have 1 question though, the AC clutch needs to be removed to replace the coil right? So since I'm going through the hassle of replacing the coil, I might as well replace the AC cluth too while I'm at it right?
Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
04-21-2013, 10:56 AM
#11
10th Gear
Just finished doing this on my 2008. For tge retaining rings/c-clips, I used Craftsman's part number 47385, those pliers worked perfect.
Also, there is a hole on the compressor and a small round protrusion on the field coil that should be aligned.
J
Also, there is a hole on the compressor and a small round protrusion on the field coil that should be aligned.
J
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Mr Marco (07-03-2013)
05-09-2013, 08:50 PM
#12
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Had problems with my 08 RDX too with 80,000 miles...my car starting blowing warm air all the time. Checked the pressure on the low side. It measured 70 psi. The compressor pulley was spinning but was not engaging. Turns out the ac compression clutch relay went bad. Once I swapped it out with the radiator fan relay I instantly heard the compressor start and felt the cold air. The low side pressure measured 45 psi. The failed relay caused the left radiator fan from blowing. Swapped them back and called the dealership for the part. It's a $8 relay.
05-30-2013, 03:42 PM
#13
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i need help. a/c not working i want to check relay but have no idea how to remove the relay. i opened the fuse cover under hood i see the fuses and plastic tool to remove fuse but the relay is long strip, how do i remove it to test realy for ac. im a nurse not mechanic but figure i could try this fix before bringing to dealer thanks to anyone that can help jennifer
05-31-2013, 01:16 AM
#14
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i need help. a/c not working i want to check relay but have no idea how to remove the relay. i opened the fuse cover under hood i see the fuses and plastic tool to remove fuse but the relay is long strip, how do i remove it to test realy for ac. im a nurse not mechanic but figure i could try this fix before bringing to dealer thanks to anyone that can help jennifer
The relays you are looking for are rectangular and black. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse/relay cover (orient it to the front of the car like the diagram shows) to find the relays you are meaning to replace (marked with a snow flake for AC system). To remove the relays, you can use a set of pliers to grip the sides of the relay and pull it straight up out of its sockets (I think there were five blades under the relay that make the electrical connections). Now you can swap them with the other IDENTICAL relays that aren't for the AC system to test if one of the relays is bad. Marking the relays is a good idea.
Hope it helps,
-Joshua
Last edited by im blown; 05-31-2013 at 01:18 AM.
05-31-2013, 01:58 AM
#15
^^^^ Most people are probably using some pliers to pull the relay, but that can damage or break the relay. Honda does make a special relay puller, but at the moment I am unable to find a link to a picture. And my dealer would only sell me 50 (yes fifty) of them, as they only cost $5 and they would not order only one item. You can order one from one of the online Acura/ Honda parts places, if I can find the part number.
Or you might find this tool at SEARS or an auto-parts place:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/lisle-relay-puller-pliers
Or you might find this tool at SEARS or an auto-parts place:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/lisle-relay-puller-pliers
05-31-2013, 04:46 PM
#16
my sis' RDX is running into the same issue as most other people. She has 106K on the RDX so won't be able to have it covered, but I'm just going to have our mechanic look at it. My question though is that if she is getting the field coil replaced, should she also get the compressor replaced? From what it sounds like just fixing the coil fixes the problem, but we'd rather not have to pay the mechanic twice if the coil turns out to not be the issue. Is it worth replacing the compressor, clutch and should she just get the coil?
FYI- checked the relay, no issue there.
FYI- checked the relay, no issue there.
07-02-2013, 10:40 PM
#17
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Alright, so I'm stuck. I followed all the steps and am trying to get the pulley off of the compressor, but it looks like the bearing is separating (the inner radius is staying with the threaded core and the outer piece of the bearing is moving with the pulley) I have all the loaner tools listed from autozone and have actually snapped the clip on the bottom half of the pulley puller. This has happened to two tools already. Once the clip is broken, the tool won't pull anymore. I have coated the inner pulley/bearing with pb blaster and am letting it soak until morning when I'll get back after it. Any advice as to why the bearing is coming apart and how to deal with it?
Thanks
Joshua
Thanks
Joshua
07-02-2013, 11:05 PM
#18
Alright, so I'm stuck. I followed all the steps and am trying to get the pulley off of the compressor, but it looks like the bearing is separating (the inner radius is staying with the threaded core and the outer piece of the bearing is moving with the pulley) I have all the loaner tools listed from autozone and have actually snapped the clip on the bottom half of the pulley puller. This has happened to two tools already. Once the clip is broken, the tool won't pull anymore. I have coated the inner pulley/bearing with pb blaster and am letting it soak until morning when I'll get back after it. Any advice as to why the bearing is coming apart and how to deal with it?
Thanks
Joshua
Thanks
Joshua
I've attached some pictures I found for a better view of the compressor/pulley setup
I remember the pulley is actually like 2 concentric donuts
Did you remove the first snap ring?
Last edited by bit359; 07-02-2013 at 11:19 PM.
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valdito (06-16-2015)
07-06-2013, 10:52 PM
#19
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Bit359, thanks for the reply. Sorry, just seeing it now because I didn't get a notification of a reply. I did get the pulley off, and the new field coil installed, but the bearing inside the pulley is now making noise. Yay, at least I'll be a lot faster at it this time to change that out.
From the google searching I've done, looks like I have to buy the compressor clutch kit, that comes with a new clutch plate, pulley and installed bearing. Can anyone verify that this is right? All I really need is the bearing since mine is making noise now. Looks like I need "reference number 4" in this link to replace the bearing inside the pulley
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/a...ompressor.html
From the google searching I've done, looks like I have to buy the compressor clutch kit, that comes with a new clutch plate, pulley and installed bearing. Can anyone verify that this is right? All I really need is the bearing since mine is making noise now. Looks like I need "reference number 4" in this link to replace the bearing inside the pulley
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/a...ompressor.html
07-23-2014, 12:05 PM
#22
Once again I want to thank bit359 for the write-up. I got all the tools mentioned from autozone and managed to replace the field coil and AC clutch by myself without too much trouble.
The only thing that wasn't obvious to me in the instructions was how to re-install the AC pulley. After checking Youtube, I just tapped it in slowly with a rubber mallet. I think that is how it is usually done. Hopefully didn't mess anything up.
The only thing that wasn't obvious to me in the instructions was how to re-install the AC pulley. After checking Youtube, I just tapped it in slowly with a rubber mallet. I think that is how it is usually done. Hopefully didn't mess anything up.
07-23-2014, 03:15 PM
#23
Once again I want to thank bit359 for the write-up. I got all the tools mentioned from autozone and managed to replace the field coil and AC clutch by myself without too much trouble.
The only thing that wasn't obvious to me in the instructions was how to re-install the AC pulley. After checking Youtube, I just tapped it in slowly with a rubber mallet. I think that is how it is usually done. Hopefully didn't mess anything up.
The only thing that wasn't obvious to me in the instructions was how to re-install the AC pulley. After checking Youtube, I just tapped it in slowly with a rubber mallet. I think that is how it is usually done. Hopefully didn't mess anything up.
05-12-2015, 11:22 PM
#25
10th Gear
I think my wife's '07 RDX might be having this problem. About a year ago the compressor stopped working and it turned out to be a bad relay. At that time, I measured the resistance of the field coil and I remember it being about 4.5 ohm which is above spec but about the same value as bit359's replacement coil. The relay fixed the problem so I didn't worry about it anymore.
Fast forward a year later and my wife's RDX started having intermittent AC issues. Works fine one minute and then doesn't work the next. The issues started about a week ago, but seemed to resolve themselves (yea right...). The AC worked fine this morning, but didn't work at all this afternoon. From what I have read, this seems to be classic field coil symptoms.
I was hoping for another bad relay, but that wasn't the case. The condenser fan relay is working properly because the fan kicks on, but the compressor doesn't turn on. I swapped the relays and the fan kicks on with what was the compressor relay, but the compressor still doesn't kick on.
The car was too hot to ohm out the field coil, but I decided to check the low side pressure. Keep in mind the compressor isn't turning on so this is static pressure, but the gauge went off the charts stopping at about 140psi (assuming the gauge is still linear after it passes the max value of 100psi). From what I have read about 90psi static pressure is on the high side of normal.
At this point, I don't know if the compressor isn't kicking on because of a bad field coil or too high of a low side pressure. I'm going to check for compressor operation again in the morning after everything has cooled down. If it still doesn't kick on and the low side pressure is still 100+ psi I'm going to have to let a shop take a look...I don't want an AC system blowing up in my face.
Sorry it was a bit long winded, but any advice or thoughts are welcome!
Fast forward a year later and my wife's RDX started having intermittent AC issues. Works fine one minute and then doesn't work the next. The issues started about a week ago, but seemed to resolve themselves (yea right...). The AC worked fine this morning, but didn't work at all this afternoon. From what I have read, this seems to be classic field coil symptoms.
I was hoping for another bad relay, but that wasn't the case. The condenser fan relay is working properly because the fan kicks on, but the compressor doesn't turn on. I swapped the relays and the fan kicks on with what was the compressor relay, but the compressor still doesn't kick on.
The car was too hot to ohm out the field coil, but I decided to check the low side pressure. Keep in mind the compressor isn't turning on so this is static pressure, but the gauge went off the charts stopping at about 140psi (assuming the gauge is still linear after it passes the max value of 100psi). From what I have read about 90psi static pressure is on the high side of normal.
At this point, I don't know if the compressor isn't kicking on because of a bad field coil or too high of a low side pressure. I'm going to check for compressor operation again in the morning after everything has cooled down. If it still doesn't kick on and the low side pressure is still 100+ psi I'm going to have to let a shop take a look...I don't want an AC system blowing up in my face.
Sorry it was a bit long winded, but any advice or thoughts are welcome!
05-13-2015, 08:14 AM
#26
10th Gear
Just to follow up, I checked the AC system this morning and the compressor kicked on and cold air was blowing. I hooked my pressure gauge to the low pressure port and it was only reading about 8psi when the compressor was on which is low according to the gauge and compared to the 23psi or so that I was reading this time last year. I'm guessing the very high static pressure that I read yesterday was due to a combination of the temperature under the hood and low refrigerant volume (i.e. a small amount of refrigerant would heat up very quickly which would cause the pressure to be very high).
I still don't know if the field coil is going bad or if the low refrigerant level is preventing the compressor from kicking on due to the high pressure in the low side line after everything heats up. I may try to add a can of refrigerant to it tomorrow morning, but I have read that it is much better to let someone with the proper equipment add refrigerant because they can also monitor the high side pressure.
I still don't know if the field coil is going bad or if the low refrigerant level is preventing the compressor from kicking on due to the high pressure in the low side line after everything heats up. I may try to add a can of refrigerant to it tomorrow morning, but I have read that it is much better to let someone with the proper equipment add refrigerant because they can also monitor the high side pressure.
05-26-2015, 03:03 PM
#27
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2015
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.........
I still don't know if the field coil is going bad or if the low refrigerant level is preventing the compressor from kicking on due to the high pressure in the low side line after everything heats up. I may try to add a can of refrigerant to it tomorrow morning, but I have read that it is much better to let someone with the proper equipment add refrigerant because they can also monitor the high side pressure.
I still don't know if the field coil is going bad or if the low refrigerant level is preventing the compressor from kicking on due to the high pressure in the low side line after everything heats up. I may try to add a can of refrigerant to it tomorrow morning, but I have read that it is much better to let someone with the proper equipment add refrigerant because they can also monitor the high side pressure.
RamMan4x4 - Were you able to identify if the coil finally bit the dust? I have an '07 RDX and am experiencing the same issue. A new relay fixed the issue in 2011, but this time I'm not as lucky. I have a feeling I'll be replacing the coil and clutch.
06-16-2015, 07:49 AM
#28
A huge thanks to bit359 for this awesome write-up! My RDX's A/C started blowing warm/hot air and I knew for a fact that I didn't have a refrigerant leak. Followed your thread to the "T" and the A/C is been colder than ever! Also, the initial load on the engine when you turn the A/C on is a lot less noticeable.
06-23-2015, 12:00 PM
#29
9th Gear
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I replaced the relay in my RDX two years ago but now my a/c is intermittent. cool air in AM hot air in PM due to ambient temps.
I called the dealership and they said my 08 RDX with <97000 was not included in the extended A/C Compression Clutch Warranty campaign.
I suspect the field coil but need to measure.
I called the dealership and they said my 08 RDX with <97000 was not included in the extended A/C Compression Clutch Warranty campaign.
I suspect the field coil but need to measure.
06-19-2016, 06:23 PM
#30
Just my luck.... I'm getting intermittent AC again... doesn't seem to be relay either probably the field coil gone bad again Argh!
Did this happen to anyone else with the AC field coil going bad again?
Did this happen to anyone else with the AC field coil going bad again?
06-20-2016, 09:39 AM
#31
Cruisin'
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Man! Bad luck. How many miles did you get out of the field coil? Do you live in a hot part of the country? 4 years is an awfully short life span for that thing.
06-20-2016, 09:47 AM
#32
I am also having issues with our 07 RDX A/C. Went and bought the a/c replay and swapped it out and we are still having the same issues. A/C blows cold at first then goes out once engine is up to temp during a HOT day (above 85 deg or so)
I am speculating a dew things:
1) I suspect the field coil is gone and needs replacing because the radiator/condenser fans come one when the A/C is turned on but the a/c blows warm (after driving a while or sitting out in the sun)
2) The a/c clutch relay part # I recieved from Acura ends in A03 and not A05. I asked the parts guy about this and told him there was an update to this relay and he told me that his computer was up to date and this is the part # i need. Per this thread --> https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...pgrade-890420/ I need this parts number ( ) Is it possible the other a/c clutch relay ending in A05 will solve my issue? I am not sure but I want to say probably not because the system runs great when you first turn it on then it gets warm.
Any thoughts on any of this?
I am speculating a dew things:
1) I suspect the field coil is gone and needs replacing because the radiator/condenser fans come one when the A/C is turned on but the a/c blows warm (after driving a while or sitting out in the sun)
2) The a/c clutch relay part # I recieved from Acura ends in A03 and not A05. I asked the parts guy about this and told him there was an update to this relay and he told me that his computer was up to date and this is the part # i need. Per this thread --> https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...pgrade-890420/ I need this parts number ( ) Is it possible the other a/c clutch relay ending in A05 will solve my issue? I am not sure but I want to say probably not because the system runs great when you first turn it on then it gets warm.
Any thoughts on any of this?
06-20-2016, 09:54 AM
#33
Probably about 50k? I live around chicago but i do keep auto climate control on year round. Consider its a 08 and last went out in 12, that was about 4 years too
06-20-2016, 09:55 AM
#34
I am also having issues with our 07 RDX A/C. Went and bought the a/c replay and swapped it out and we are still having the same issues. A/C blows cold at first then goes out once engine is up to temp during a HOT day (above 85 deg or so)
I am speculating a dew things:
1) I suspect the field coil is gone and needs replacing because the radiator/condenser fans come one when the A/C is turned on but the a/c blows warm (after driving a while or sitting out in the sun)
2) The a/c clutch relay part # I recieved from Acura ends in A03 and not A05. I asked the parts guy about this and told him there was an update to this relay and he told me that his computer was up to date and this is the part # i need. Per this thread --> https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...pgrade-890420/ I need this parts number ( ) Is it possible the other a/c clutch relay ending in A05 will solve my issue? I am not sure but I want to say probably not because the system runs great when you first turn it on then it gets warm.
Any thoughts on any of this?
I am speculating a dew things:
1) I suspect the field coil is gone and needs replacing because the radiator/condenser fans come one when the A/C is turned on but the a/c blows warm (after driving a while or sitting out in the sun)
2) The a/c clutch relay part # I recieved from Acura ends in A03 and not A05. I asked the parts guy about this and told him there was an update to this relay and he told me that his computer was up to date and this is the part # i need. Per this thread --> https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...pgrade-890420/ I need this parts number ( ) Is it possible the other a/c clutch relay ending in A05 will solve my issue? I am not sure but I want to say probably not because the system runs great when you first turn it on then it gets warm.
Any thoughts on any of this?
06-20-2016, 11:53 AM
#36
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2016
Age: 41
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About to start this...
Should I measure the armature distance before replacing the field coil just in case that an issue also? I have the field coil ordered ( Part # 38924-RWC-A02) as I would rather spent $90 and DIY instead of $750 for the dealer to do it. In addition are there any new developments/tricks that anyone has found to make it easier? I can't believe a 2011 RDX with 5x,xxx miles is already having this problem! Thanks!
06-20-2016, 12:03 PM
#37
Should I measure the armature distance before replacing the field coil just in case that an issue also? I have the field coil ordered ( Part # 38924-RWC-A02) as I would rather spent $90 and DIY instead of $750 for the dealer to do it. In addition are there any new developments/tricks that anyone has found to make it easier? I can't believe a 2011 RDX with 5x,xxx miles is already having this problem! Thanks!
Anyone see a reason to NOT replace the clutch?
06-20-2016, 12:08 PM
#38
Should I measure the armature distance before replacing the field coil just in case that an issue also? I have the field coil ordered ( Part # 38924-RWC-A02) as I would rather spent $90 and DIY instead of $750 for the dealer to do it. In addition are there any new developments/tricks that anyone has found to make it easier? I can't believe a 2011 RDX with 5x,xxx miles is already having this problem! Thanks!
Acura rdx: 07 acura rdx ac coil and clutch replaced. the ac
06-20-2016, 12:17 PM
#39
Some more diagnostic manual I came across
Acura (Honda) Workshop Manuals > RDX AWD L4-2.3L Turbo (2010) > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4383
Acura (Honda) Workshop Manuals > RDX L4-2.3L Turbo (2008) > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7280
Acura (Honda) Workshop Manuals > RDX AWD L4-2.3L Turbo (2010) > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4383
Acura (Honda) Workshop Manuals > RDX L4-2.3L Turbo (2008) > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7280
