DIY: Oil Change
#41
where have you guys been buying your oil at? Someone said they paid $25 for the 5qt. bottle....the cheapest I've seen it is around $35 although I haven't checked too many places. My dealer wants $79 for parts/labor but if I bring the oil they told me it will be under $20 for the labor, filter, plug and bolt. Anyways, where's the cheap mobil 1 at? Thanks!
#42
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by wrzt
where have you guys been buying your oil at? Someone said they paid $25 for the 5qt. bottle....the cheapest I've seen it is around $35 although I haven't checked too many places. My dealer wants $79 for parts/labor but if I bring the oil they told me it will be under $20 for the labor, filter, plug and bolt. Anyways, where's the cheap mobil 1 at? Thanks!
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CSmoney28 (11-02-2020)
#43
haole kama'a-ina
Oil replacement with a new filter is 4.7 L (5 qt)
Always use a new oil drain sealing washer, (part # 94109-14000, 28 cents) from the Honda/Acura store. Torque the drain plug to 39 N/m (29 lb/ft), but it isn't necessary to use a torque wrench. The objective is to slightly crush the sealing washer; hand tighten till it firmly makes contact then turn an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Remember, you are turning a steel bolt into an aluminum pan, don't overtighten. (Later, if it seeps, give it another 1/8 turn.)
Oil filter torque is 12 N/m (8.7 lb/ft). However, when fresh oil is applied to the gasket, the torque wrench will be inaccurate, and 12 N/m is hand tight anyway. Read the instructions on the filter; tighten to contact and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I usually tighten another 1/4 turn with a wrench, because a leaking/loose oil filter will ruin your day as fast as the pump can dump 5 quarts overboard...about 15 to 30 seconds.
Always use a new oil drain sealing washer, (part # 94109-14000, 28 cents) from the Honda/Acura store. Torque the drain plug to 39 N/m (29 lb/ft), but it isn't necessary to use a torque wrench. The objective is to slightly crush the sealing washer; hand tighten till it firmly makes contact then turn an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Remember, you are turning a steel bolt into an aluminum pan, don't overtighten. (Later, if it seeps, give it another 1/8 turn.)
Oil filter torque is 12 N/m (8.7 lb/ft). However, when fresh oil is applied to the gasket, the torque wrench will be inaccurate, and 12 N/m is hand tight anyway. Read the instructions on the filter; tighten to contact and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I usually tighten another 1/4 turn with a wrench, because a leaking/loose oil filter will ruin your day as fast as the pump can dump 5 quarts overboard...about 15 to 30 seconds.
#44
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Thanks for the the added info there 737!
Of course the chepest cost is at Wal-Mart, like russiandude said. I think our cost here is about $24.75 for the 5 qt. bottle of 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil. I personally have NEVER used anything but the original "crush" washer, or a "torque wrench", but I have done my own oil changes for, like 40 yrs. now & just have a "feel" for it. Never had leaks or have to re-tighten. For most people though, I'd suggest a new one each time, just to be save, (unless you have been doing this for a while & know what I mean by "feel" for it!!)
Of course the chepest cost is at Wal-Mart, like russiandude said. I think our cost here is about $24.75 for the 5 qt. bottle of 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil. I personally have NEVER used anything but the original "crush" washer, or a "torque wrench", but I have done my own oil changes for, like 40 yrs. now & just have a "feel" for it. Never had leaks or have to re-tighten. For most people though, I'd suggest a new one each time, just to be save, (unless you have been doing this for a while & know what I mean by "feel" for it!!)
#45
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by 737 Jock
Oil replacement with a new filter is 4.7 L (5 qt)
Always use a new oil drain sealing washer, (part # 94109-14000, 28 cents) from the Honda/Acura store. Torque the drain plug to 39 N/m (29 lb/ft), but it isn't necessary to use a torque wrench. The objective is to slightly crush the sealing washer; hand tighten till it firmly makes contact then turn an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Remember, you are turning a steel bolt into an aluminum pan, don't overtighten. (Later, if it seeps, give it another 1/8 turn.)
Oil filter torque is 12 N/m (8.7 lb/ft). However, when fresh oil is applied to the gasket, the torque wrench will be inaccurate, and 12 N/m is hand tight anyway. Read the instructions on the filter; tighten to contact and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I usually tighten another 1/4 turn with a wrench, because a leaking/loose oil filter will ruin your day as fast as the pump can dump 5 quarts overboard...about 15 to 30 seconds.
Always use a new oil drain sealing washer, (part # 94109-14000, 28 cents) from the Honda/Acura store. Torque the drain plug to 39 N/m (29 lb/ft), but it isn't necessary to use a torque wrench. The objective is to slightly crush the sealing washer; hand tighten till it firmly makes contact then turn an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Remember, you are turning a steel bolt into an aluminum pan, don't overtighten. (Later, if it seeps, give it another 1/8 turn.)
Oil filter torque is 12 N/m (8.7 lb/ft). However, when fresh oil is applied to the gasket, the torque wrench will be inaccurate, and 12 N/m is hand tight anyway. Read the instructions on the filter; tighten to contact and then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I usually tighten another 1/4 turn with a wrench, because a leaking/loose oil filter will ruin your day as fast as the pump can dump 5 quarts overboard...about 15 to 30 seconds.
good write-up, I also don't believe torque wrench is really necessary. thats what the crush washer is for (protect the pan), so as soon as its crushed a bit, you must stop.
#46
Originally Posted by russianDude
walmart, they have 5qt bottle for $23
Thanks for the heads up...I went to walmart yesterday and picked one up for $23.16 +tax. I noticed that some of you have been using the Truck and SUV formulation of Mobil 1, but like somebody else noted, only the regular formulation says Honda/Acura HTO-06 on the back of it. What have your results been using the special Truck and SUV blend?
and whats the difference between the two?
#47
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by wrzt
Thanks for the heads up...I went to walmart yesterday and picked one up for $23.16 +tax. I noticed that some of you have been using the Truck and SUV formulation of Mobil 1, but like somebody else noted, only the regular formulation says Honda/Acura HTO-06 on the back of it. What have your results been using the special Truck and SUV blend?
and whats the difference between the two?
and whats the difference between the two?
I have a feeling that HTO-06 is a B.S, marketing crap (Honda is getting some kick backs from Mobil 1). M1 is a good oil, but they are not the only one...
but you can't use stuff that does not have HTO-6 if you want to keep your warranty on engine
#48
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by russianDude
I have a feeling that HTO-06 is a B.S, marketing crap (Honda is getting some kick backs from Mobil 1). M1 is a good oil, but they are not the only one...
but you can't use stuff that does not have HTO-6 if you want to keep your warranty on engine
but you can't use stuff that does not have HTO-6 if you want to keep your warranty on engine
#49
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Cool! We just bought a 5 qt. bottle of Mobile1 from Walmart for $21.95! Can you say price drop! Will get my Mobile1 filter from Advance Auto & do my 2nd oil change this weekend.
#50
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by mau108
then use Penzoil Platinum. Honda/Acura can deny warranty for stuff like that. I keep all my receipts of oil and oil filter purchases in my booklet for proof.
I predict that in the near future we will see more syn. oils geting HTO-6 certification... its only a matter of getting certified, there are number of good syn. oil brands, and I don't belive that M1 and Penzoil are the only ones.
#51
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by russianDude
I predict that in the near future we will see more syn. oils geting HTO-6 certification... its only a matter of getting certified, there are number of good syn. oil brands, and I don't belive that M1 and Penzoil are the only ones.
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Jman7678 (10-07-2013)
#55
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Nyjumpman23
How much for the A1 Service, is it suppoed to be free the 1st TImE?
I'm @ 30% oil
when are you supposed to get the MESSAGE? like around 20%?
I'm @ 30% oil
when are you supposed to get the MESSAGE? like around 20%?
#56
Three Wheelin'
I start seeing the reminders at 15%. At 15% it says "Service Due Soon" at 5% it says "Service Due Now". On the base package, it will turn on the maintenance minder indicator at 15% and the oil life indicator will come on every time you start your vehicle. At 5% on the base package the word "SERVICE" will appear.
Like Mav said, change it when it gets to around 5%. I usually wait till it gets to 5% and then make my appt. The only reason to change it sooner is to get rid of the annoying messages.
Like Mav said, change it when it gets to around 5%. I usually wait till it gets to 5% and then make my appt. The only reason to change it sooner is to get rid of the annoying messages.
#57
I'm @ 30%...but Is it okay if I do it sooner though?
would there be any problems, even though I'm not getting any messages yet.
Cause I'm basing this on timing.
Christmas is coming up and then New years..and etc...
Within this time frame, acura might be closed or so for holidays..etc..ya know?
and I rather know..that I'll be driving around safe with all that stuff done..rather then have to be extreme cautious without the A1 service
I must note that this would be the 1st time...I'm guessing all 1st times are A1 service
(oil change/tire rotation)...i'm @ aronud 2350m, 30% oil life.
(u can still get it done even w/o the warning messages rite?????)
and how much does it cost?
I thuoght the 1st service was free?
would there be any problems, even though I'm not getting any messages yet.
Cause I'm basing this on timing.
Christmas is coming up and then New years..and etc...
Within this time frame, acura might be closed or so for holidays..etc..ya know?
and I rather know..that I'll be driving around safe with all that stuff done..rather then have to be extreme cautious without the A1 service
I must note that this would be the 1st time...I'm guessing all 1st times are A1 service
(oil change/tire rotation)...i'm @ aronud 2350m, 30% oil life.
(u can still get it done even w/o the warning messages rite?????)
and how much does it cost?
I thuoght the 1st service was free?
#58
Three Wheelin'
I would wait till you get the maintenance minder. Acura won't be closed for any extended period of time during the holidays, unless you are wanting to have you oil changed on xmas day or something. I would wait simply because you don't know exactly what indicators will come on for the first service. It will likely be A1, but it could be A16 also or something else.
First service is free only if your dealer does that. Mine was free, but thats because my dealer told me it would be free when I bought the car. many places are not free.
First service is free only if your dealer does that. Mine was free, but thats because my dealer told me it would be free when I bought the car. many places are not free.
#59
Yeah, I called my dearler
My 1st Service is free.
Suggestion on their part was wait for the Tire rotation till about 5K-7k miles on my car
(I'm @ 2450, now that i just looked)
But the oil change is normal, even though its @ 30%.
My 1st Service is free.
Suggestion on their part was wait for the Tire rotation till about 5K-7k miles on my car
(I'm @ 2450, now that i just looked)
But the oil change is normal, even though its @ 30%.
#60
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Just did my SECOND oil change this last wkend. WOW. It's even easier the 2nd time around. My MID was at 15% when I got the B1 service reminder. Did it early anyway. Checked everything out, fluids, exhaust system, brakes. All looks good. Will do the tire rotation at 7500 miles. The oil chsnge is easy folks. Save money from the dealers & do it yourself!
#61
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by Lrpba300
Just did my SECOND oil change this last wkend. WOW. It's even easier the 2nd time around. My MID was at 15% when I got the B1 service reminder. Did it early anyway. Checked everything out, fluids, exhaust system, brakes. All looks good. Will do the tire rotation at 7500 miles. The oil chsnge is easy folks. Save money from the dealers & do it yourself!
#62
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by russianDude
Is it safe to rotate tires every 7500 miles? I don't think u really need to follow MID for tire rotations. Also, do you use torque wrench? It looks like its not necessary given the instructions someone posted on how many times to turn the wrench after hand tightening the bolt
I have two friends in the tire business, and BOTH, verbatium, say ,quote" the best mileage to rotate tires is at 7500". They work for 2 diff. companies & they don't know each other, & yet they say the same thing. Works for me. I'll do them at 7500.
No I don't use a torque wrench for the wheels either. Just done it enough to have the"feel" for it!
#63
Suzuka Master
I got another question, what is the best store to buy oil filter wrench? From your comment it appears that OEM filter wrench (the one that dealer sells) might not fit Mobil 1 oil filter?
#64
Suzuka Master
I got another question, what is the best store to buy oil filter wrench? From your comment it appears that OEM filter wrench (the one that dealer sells) might not fit Mobil 1 oil filter?
#65
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by russianDude
I got another question, what is the best store to buy oil filter wrench? From your comment it appears that OEM filter wrench (the one that dealer sells) might not fit Mobil 1 oil filter?
#66
Thanks, Lrpba300. I didn't get the Technology package, so I can't use the MID to reset the oil life indicator (my owner's manual assumes I did).
After my oil change (with the engine running -- I couldn't do this with only the instruments on), I cycled through the odomoter/trip meter button until I got to the service indicator message.
Then, I held down the button for 15 seconds until the display changed a bit (a little info disappeared -- all that remained was the -nn miles). Finally, I held it down for about 5 seconds more, and it changed to 100%. Success!
After my oil change (with the engine running -- I couldn't do this with only the instruments on), I cycled through the odomoter/trip meter button until I got to the service indicator message.
Then, I held down the button for 15 seconds until the display changed a bit (a little info disappeared -- all that remained was the -nn miles). Finally, I held it down for about 5 seconds more, and it changed to 100%. Success!
#67
Sporty X type
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RainyDaze
Thanks, Lrpba300. I didn't get the Technology package, so I can't use the MID to reset the oil life indicator (my owner's manual assumes I did).
After my oil change (with the engine running -- I couldn't do this with only the instruments on), I cycled through the odomoter/trip meter button until I got to the service indicator message.
Then, I held down the button for 15 seconds until the display changed a bit (a little info disappeared -- all that remained was the -nn miles). Finally, I held it down for about 5 seconds more, and it changed to 100%. Success!
After my oil change (with the engine running -- I couldn't do this with only the instruments on), I cycled through the odomoter/trip meter button until I got to the service indicator message.
Then, I held down the button for 15 seconds until the display changed a bit (a little info disappeared -- all that remained was the -nn miles). Finally, I held it down for about 5 seconds more, and it changed to 100%. Success!
#69
I recently purchased the RDX for my wife. I would like to change the oill myself and did some reading online regarding the care of turbos. I read somewhere that you have to prime the turbo with oil prior to starting the engine. Has anyone heard of this? If this is part of the oil change for an RDX does anyone know how to prime the turbo?
Thanks and Happy New Year
Thanks and Happy New Year
#70
Originally Posted by U3270
I recently purchased the RDX for my wife. I would like to change the oill myself and did some reading online regarding the care of turbos. I read somewhere that you have to prime the turbo with oil prior to starting the engine. Has anyone heard of this? If this is part of the oil change for an RDX does anyone know how to prime the turbo?
Thanks and Happy New Year
Thanks and Happy New Year
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/t...il_changes.htm
#71
Since the oil filter setup sits vertically, fill-it up (obviously do not overfill it) prior to installing new...
Then again, the turbo should not "spool-up" at low RPM on start-up, which requires little oil anyways.
FYI: I've been running a larger turbo setup (T3/4OE .57 Trim/ .60 A/R housing) on my "acura" swapped Honda w/zero issues on the turbo side for over 5yrs + ...
Then again, the turbo should not "spool-up" at low RPM on start-up, which requires little oil anyways.
FYI: I've been running a larger turbo setup (T3/4OE .57 Trim/ .60 A/R housing) on my "acura" swapped Honda w/zero issues on the turbo side for over 5yrs + ...
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Bimmer4me (05-23-2014)
#74
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by U3270
Thanks for the information. Do you let your car idle for a few seconds before turning the engine off?
#76
Originally Posted by JMJ3rd
Spoke to RP again. They are working on it because more '08 engines are specifying the cert. beyond Acura.
A much more likely scenario is oils like Amsoil, Redline, RP etc. already meet it, but they did not submit testing etc. for $$ reasons and or Honda wouldn't release what exactly HTO-06 actually requires.
#78
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by Honda2.4
Apparently Mobil 1 is ahead of the game. ???
.
.
You'll see, HTO-6 will pretty soon be on almost every synthetic oil.
except Castrol
#79
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_Brochure.pdf
I don't agree. Honda tested all the retail PCMO's on the shelf. According to Honda R&D, not Mobil, the others failed miserably. One passed, barely, but not enough for me to use it.
I spoke with an engineer from XOM a few months ago and he said one of the biggest misconceptions out there is that XOM pays people to use their oil. He said it's not true at all. The auto manufacturers chose Mobil 1. Even in nascar, only the sponsored teams get special blends of Mobil 1. All the others chose to use it.
Mobil 1 is XOM's flagship product. I don't think they are going to let the quality slip. .02
I don't agree. Honda tested all the retail PCMO's on the shelf. According to Honda R&D, not Mobil, the others failed miserably. One passed, barely, but not enough for me to use it.
I spoke with an engineer from XOM a few months ago and he said one of the biggest misconceptions out there is that XOM pays people to use their oil. He said it's not true at all. The auto manufacturers chose Mobil 1. Even in nascar, only the sponsored teams get special blends of Mobil 1. All the others chose to use it.
Mobil 1 is XOM's flagship product. I don't think they are going to let the quality slip. .02
#80
That graph on their website could easily be misleading. Most of the off the shelf synthetics are hydrocracked dino juice. The question is how much money and how difficult it is to meet this standard? Personally, I think it is bogus that it will void your warranty if you use amsoil, royal purple, or redline. To deny a claim, they would to prove the oil DID NOT meet their HTO-06 standard.