Rear rotor bolts
#1
#3
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The holes he circled are for the 2 screws you use to "pop" the rotor off, Justin...IIRC they are the same thread pitch as the rotor screws but I'm not certain.
A block of wood and a sledge/or hammer going around in circles or a rubber mallet have been more than enough to remove from the hub. Then a light sand on the rusted hub surface to ensure ease of re-installation.
A block of wood and a sledge/or hammer going around in circles or a rubber mallet have been more than enough to remove from the hub. Then a light sand on the rusted hub surface to ensure ease of re-installation.
#6
On an old Nissan, even the holes/ bolts were not enough - I used PB Blaster. My Chevy rotors don't have the bolt holes, but PB Blaster, a couple of hours wait, and the hubs just pulled off by hand - whereas pounding with a hammer did not work. You need to get the PB Blaster between the hub and rotor back, which can be difficult - start with the bolt holes.
Use a smear of anti-seize (aluminum type) on the back of the rotor hub when replacing - esp around the center hole in the rotor.
Use a smear of anti-seize (aluminum type) on the back of the rotor hub when replacing - esp around the center hole in the rotor.
The following 2 users liked this post by dcmodels:
DRR98 (07-16-2014),
justnspace (07-15-2014)
#8
Thanks guys, I pounded the rotor for a good half hour. I found out you need to take out the rubber gromet (#5 in the picture) and locate the star wheel to loosen the drum brakes to release the rotor -_-;
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