Gsiraent

After all these months i finally got around to doing my rear motor mount and I still get that damn clunking noise....WTF!!!!!!
I even change my upper control arms and the noise died down but still noticable. I do notice now that the noise is louder in cold temps below 20F When the car is warmed up you can still feel it but not as loud. Anyone have any idea what it could be. Im thinking my front motor mount but i am not sure..... And by the way i went back to that shop where the 100 yr old man was just to find out he died. he was really 62yrs old RIP Mario, you will be missed!

LockDots

Have you checked your lower control arm ball joints?

I just had my car in the shop and I think I found the cause. I'll be switching them out next week and updating everyone.

Bad or blown motor mounts typically lead to vibration under acceleration, rough idle, engine movement of a few inches or clunking when shaking the car back and forth when parked (not to be confused with axle-play-click).

I put my car on the lift, laid some wooden blocks down just under the control arm, and then lowered the car until the blocks lifted the control arm about an inch or two. Next, I took a pry bar and had someone place it between the ground and the bottom of the tire. Then they pried it up and released it, back and forth a few times. You should see no play at all on the lower ball joints (or any for that matter). Lo and behold, there's about 1/8" play in the ball joints. I got a set from the dealer for $140. We'll see what happens soon enough.

Gsiraent

Lockdot, please keep us posted. The wierd thing is that when its warm out i dont get any clunking at all, car rides like a dream!!!!!

LockDots

Will do. I was hoping to get it in already but the weather hasn't helped much.

Gsiraent

I am leaning towards my sway bar links (Moog) although I replaced the linksbut upon observing the links yesterday I noticed that my passenger side endlink can be rotated with no efforts at all, the driver’s side end link is a littlestiffer. I am thinking maybe the passenger side end link could be the cause ofmy clunk. Is it normal for moog end link to go bad in a six month period withless than 3500 miles on them? I willhave to wait for the weather to warm up before I can change them out. I willjust have to go with OEM link from Acura, Although they are cheaply made theylasted over 100,000 miles and you don’t have to grease them. I’ll updateasap!!!! @Lockdots, check your end link and see how freely they move/twist beforeyou do anything with the control arm, I threw a perfectly good lower controlarm out thinking that was my issue. Total waste of money that I could havespent on something else.

LockDots

My driver side endlink went bad on me, but I think it was due to being taken off once before for my coilovers install. I swapped both sides out but the noise continued. Don't let this discourage you from swapping them out, a loose endlink can certainly cause the same noise.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I have similar issues. I replaced my oem front end links with moog about two months ago but he moog are much smaller and not as stiff. I felt weird putting them in but thought it would be an upgrade. I may buy some more oem this weekend and out them in, they are so much beefier

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

its normal for the endlink to be able to rotate by hand. after all, it is a ball joint. but as long as it has no other movement(vertical or horizontal), then its fine

Gsiraent

I’m just going to replace the end links and sway bar bushings again with theoem links just for the sake of it. I really think the moog end links are thecause of my clunk!!!! Temperatures over this way should be in the 50's allweek. I have to stop this damn clunking noise by any means necessary. I've beendriving my girls TL more than my own because i can’t get past the damnnoise.... I will update with my outcome.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

when will you be replacing them? i'm interested to see your outcome because that's an easy swap back for me as well. i would only need to buy 1 oem because one i got off easily and the other i had to have cut off. hope this solves it also

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Went underneath my car and seems like the shop didn't tighten my moog end link all the way. I could shake the stabilizer bar and hear the noise.

I bought a new driver side oem endlink and nuts, put it back on, and all clunks are gone. Took off my right side front moog and put back in my original oem endlink.

The only reason I had a shop put the driver side one on was because the nut stripped and they had to torch it off. Confirms why 95% of the time I DIY. I thought moogs were an upgrade but the oem is so much beefier and sturdy for the front...lesson learned

TimothyChooo

So its confirmed, that the most probable cause for a clunking noise is the endlink? how much did the OEM part cost? But I also think it could be my suspension, im on F2 type 1 coils but i guess we will see when i get them replaced.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Bought one endlink locally for about 20 after taxes. You can probably get it cheaper online but I wanted it right away

Gsiraent

Good news people, I replaced my MOOG end links with the factory OEM linksand no more clunk!!!!!! The car rides just as smooth as it did when I first gotit. It’s sad that I let some of the forums convince me that MOOG was the bestway to go. I will never stray away from OEM just to save a few dollars or fearof OEM parts. You get what you pay for in my book. I wasted so much money onchanging parts that really didn’t need to be changed. Countless Trips to mechanicwho did know what they were talking about including that Acura servicedepartment who told me I needed a new rack and pinion!!!!

Both end links cost me $37.00

Out of all of the work that I have done on my front suspension the realregret is that I removed my OEM Radius rod bushings and replaced it with MOOGbushings thinking that was the cause of my clunk. I will most likely replacethem with OEM Strut/Radius rod bushing in the near future just for my ownpsychological reasons. For now I will enjoy a clunk free drive. Stay away fromthose moog links just because they have grease fitting and that noob hobbyistthat says MOOG is great. Don’t believethe hype, lesson learned!!!! Apologies to the Anti OEM’rs out there.

Gsiraent

@Timothychoo make sure you check that Pasenger side motor mount. My cousin was getting a clunking noise and it turned out to be that. Easy cheap fix.

Gsiraent

@Sockr1, Let us know how everything worked out for you.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I already did in post 51 haha. no more clunk after putting oem back on and tightening to specs

Gsiraent

That is awesome to hear!!!!!!!

LockDots

Don't be discouraged if it isn't. It wasn't the solution for mine
I'm hoping to get my ball joints in next week. Probably going to need new tires by now too...

LockDots

Looks like I'll be swapping out my lower ball joints this friday if all goes according to plan. I'll update everyone.

edesousa23

I have a 99 acura tl. I just replaced both axles, both inner and outer tie rods o. Both sides, wheel bearings on both sides, both struts, rotors and brakes. Before i replaced the struts i was getting knocking noises when going over bumps and was told that was the cost. So i replaced them and all the other parts i included and its still making the same noise on the right drivers side. I ordered a new upper control arm and lower ball joint to replace to see if that solves the problem. And if that doesnt solve it im going to try the sway bar links. Im just looking for some opinions to see if anyone has encountered this problem before

Gsiraent

edesousa23, I would check those stablizer end links and sway bar bushings. That was my fix after changing every single suspension part you could think of on my front end! It took me a year to figure it out.
Im still getting a little clunking in my front end wich i think may be my upper control arm but its not to annoying yet.

LockDots

I finally installed the lower ball joints.....no dice.

So far I've changed the Shocks, Upper Ball Joints, Lower Ball joints, and End Links.

I'm hesitant to try the motor mounts because visually they look ok and I don't have any weird vibration under acceleration or revving.
I don't think it's the axles either because it's not a quick and consistent knocking when turning, this happens over small to medium bumps, but mostly when turning and going over bumps.
I don't think it's the wheel bearing because it's not humming or grinding.

I have no idea what to do next, it's really bugging me. I almost feel like giving up and selling the car.

Gsiraent

@Lockdots, Did you change the entire upper control arms or just the balljoint?

Gsiraent

Just ordered two Dorman upper control arms from Rockauto, I'm hoping the weather will cooperate so I can change them out asap. My other concern is should I torque the upper and lower control arm with the suspension loaded or unloaded? Meaning should I Jack up the suspension to get a correct ride height?

LockDots

The ball joints. No need to change the arm if there's no play, wear, or damage to it.

LockDots

Got new Sway Bar Bushings in today. Still clunking.

LockDots

I'm going to try new front and passenger motor mounts in the next couple of weeks.

Chad05TL

How did it go? Any good results?

Chad05TL

any updates?


I checked my wheel bearings the old fashion way.. by wiggling the tire top to bottom.. and it was firm. I even tried wiggling the tire with 1 hand on the front side of the tire and 1 on the backside, so it would be like trying to turn the steering wheel.. There way no movement that way either.. that would test the tie rod ends...


I also checked the LCA bushings. Compared to others on here, mine look pretty good! Only just a few small tares in the rubber..

So, I bought a new rubber mallot. And I started banging on things to hopefully hear something that sounded bad. And everything sounded pretty firm except the upper ball joint. When I hit the upper arm, I heard a the sound from the mallot but also a clank. Like metal on metal. And the rubber mallot is not metal. So the upper ball joint could be the problem. PLus I did have 1 person tell me, that a shop replaced their uppoer ball joint and fixed the noise.. But I can tell by reading that, many people have various issues and they all say 1 thing or another fixed their problem. So either people are imagining it or its still messed up.. not sure.

The last thing I did was try to make the lower ball joint move. And it looks solid. No leaking oil and I see no movement.. although this may not be the best way to check it.. but as the hangs there and as I lift on it, I see zero movement.

Chad05TL

Here are pics of the LCA bushings. They look good too.


So, I'm thinking upper ball joints.. That's the only place where I heard a rattle when using my rubber mallot.

Chad05TL

I checked the upper control arm ball joint by disconnecting the big vertical arm and inspecting it. And the ball joint was very tight and firm and was stiff and when I moved the position of that small ball joint arm, it stayed in the position where I moved it. It was not loose at all! So i am confident no noise is coming from that ball joint. Its tight! If you want to see what a bad upper ball looks like, check this video below at marker 1:10 .

Lastly, I think I have a better idea where the noise might be coming from. Brake pads or calipers. I replaced my pads a while ago and I did not reuse the OEM shims. THere are several oem shims. So, I think I am going back with the oem shims and greasing the caliper pins. I am getting the same clunking noise over small bumps on the front and the rear..

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ttling-678905/
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...z-help-621653/

Chad05TL

this guy is funny.. never heard of AT-205 Re-seal

05TLFLtom2

I have the exact same problem as you. I have a 2005 Acura TL w/ Navi 5-sp Auto, only 62k miles. I had taken car to tire place to patch my front driver side tire. Long story short, the front driver side shock seized, drove like the suspension was a rock, took me days after getting it fixed, to find forums discussing 3rd gen TL front shock seizing. So I replaced both at dealership. Ever since, a small chirp like clunk from the front end suspension, which has in time, progressively gotten worse and louder. Could there be a correlation between the two. Hopefully this sounds somewhat like your issue.

Chad05TL

How do you check the rear motor mount?

Wharbone

The best way (besides removing it to actually see it) is to have a friend get in your car & start it. Have them hold down the brake, put it in reverse, and rev the engine several times up to about 2k rpms and back. Look at the mount as they do that and see if there's more movement than it should be. It should move a little bit, but not a lot. Have them do the same thing in drive also. Reverse will show the rear mount more and drive will show the front mount more but it's good to do both.

zubi23

i have a similar issue of clunking when going over bumps, whether its a small or big bump. I replaced the shocks, struts, compliance bushings, and sway bar end links. Still hasn't solved the problem. My mechanic said the lower control arm bushings need to be replaced. Quoted me at 275 and said the bushing cost like 5 bucks. Anyone know how much OEM bushings cost for a type S, and whether I should stick with OEM and just get the parts or just have my mechanic order some knock off OEMs and put those in?

Chad05TL

I took my car into a shop today and they did a pretty good front end alignment for me a few monnths aago, and they have good reviews, and its a pretty clean shop, anyway, i asked them to look at my lower ball joints and i already replaced the sway bar links and that did not fix the clunking. Anyway, they looked at the ball joints and said they look ok. He didnt think I had a problem with them. So i asked him the check the rear mtor mount because i already had some motor mounts replaced like 2 yrs ago.. anyway, he said he could barely see it. But it moved a little bit, but didnt think it was causing my noise. He didnt seem too confident.. and i know you cant hardly tell if 1 is bad unless it is obvious... but long story short, he couldnt find anything!!! What a nightmare. If there is 1 thing i hate is a car that you cant fix!! Even paid mechanics dont want the hard stuff if they are busy with the easy stuff and making good money with the easy stuff. GM is no different. I even had another self employed car mechanic tell me the same thing.. But not sure about this guy today but I think he gave it a moderate effort anyway.. and he seems honest but i know how it works in the real world. If something is too difficult then move on... Nevertheless, he didnt charge me anything and i told him i would pay him for diagnostic time but then he didnt charge me. Oh well.

Chad05TL

I just found the receipt from jan 2012 and i had 3 motor mounts replaced. Front, right, and rear. And since 2012 I have put less than 10,000 miles on my car. So if it is a motor mount, then it is not the ones i listed. So maybe the shop i went to today was more thorough than what I mentioned above.

Anyway, i have 2 new honda upper control arms in my trunk. I guess i will give it a shot one of these weekends... not sure whatelse to try just yet. Already changed swaybar links.. and i already removed that vertical arm from the upper control arm a few weekes ago and the upper ball joint feels nicely firrm....so not sure whats up or if this will fix anything.

Btw.. only 76k miles and suspension rattles. Lovely.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, those hardly look good. They're torn pretty badly, and those are only the visible tears. Mine didn't look as bad as yours, but the car handles much better after replacing them. Might not be the cause of your clunk, but I'd still replace them.