prompe

Yes, great photos, 05TSXPAT. I'm amazed at your parts cost. You paid the same for both the canister and valve as I paid for just the valve. No price break in Canada on Acura parts, that's for sure.

TLer trash

For what it's worth, I replaced my shut valve as a precautionary measure. I've seen them short out and take out a driver in the pcm.

05TSXPAT

iTrader: (6)

There not going anywhere.. Ive had photobucket since 04. I do go through it every couple of years. but since i don't post many pics, i don't go over the bandwidth usually.

I agree about the price.. I went to my Honda dealer and inquired about the gas cap for the Acura, the guy quoted me 30 bucks plus tax. I said no thanks and went to the Acura Dealer next door. Their Acura was 43.. although i got them to get it to me for 24 since they know me.

P.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

Hi, Pls I need some advice on getting this done.
For those that have done the EVAP Canister & Shut Valve Replacement .
i ordered the shut valve and was in the process of replacing it when i found out that the 2 screws holding it in place are rusted to death.
I was trying to avoid replacing the cannister but I cannot seem to unscrew the shut of valve and it seems forcing it might break the plastic that house the screw on the cannister.
Is there any tricks in getting this out Or i just have to bite it and order the Vapor canister (another $70) and instead replace the whole unit.
Thanks in advance.............

05TSXPAT

iTrader: (6)

I don't know, I took the advice from the OP and bought both parts. Although, I had no rust on my originals parts. By the way, no light as of yet.

P.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

Ok will do.

KingerNS

Has anyone here with this problem had a gas smell when it failed? I have the same code on my reader, I assume i have the same problem but haven't seen anyone talking about a smell of gas. Mine started a few weeks ago and has been gradually getting worse, I suspect maybe the fouling of the canister could make the smell worse? Never had this problem before so any info would be great.

Thanks

UneekDevo

^^^ive had the same code for 2 months now and caught a few faint and short whiffs of gasoline fumes upon exiting the car coming from the rear. No visible leaks i assume its the canister or unburnt fuel when shutting the car off

sammy95

If you get codes for the evaporative fuel emission system, you may or may not smell fuel, when exiting the car.
The whole point of the canister and evap system is to control vapors, so more than likely if you have evap codes you have a crack or hole through the tank, canister or anything related to fuel vapor.
Just wish there was an efficient way to run evap test on command.
Or if you have the use of a smoke machine made specifically for evap systems that can be handy.
So yes you more than likely will smell fuel vapors on exiting the car especially if you have evap codes.

BartmanEH

Actually that's incorrect. You should not lube the o-ring.
From the FSM:
EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Replacement
1. Remove the EVAP canister.
2. Remove the screw, and remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (A).
3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B).
NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with oil, etc.

BartmanEH

Seriously? I mean, how clean is your car underneath, wow. The used RSX I just bought has a P1457 code so I'm going to replace the EVAP Canister Purge Valve but it's coated in gunk down there mostly from dirt adhering to the yearly rust check (oil) coating

obione2

I'll buy you a beer when you're in Boston.

My mechanic had quoted me $500 for this job.

smartypants

When can I stop by and collect ??

Glad it helped you out.

smarty.

TCM29

I can't thank you enough for the great instructions and photos- made the job so easy!
Unfortunately, I took it to the stealership for an evaluation before I did the job myself, as I did not know why the CEL light was on and with 200,000 miles I was not sure if I wanted to spend a lot on the car. My performance was down, engine was stumbling under load @ 1500-2000, and fuel mileage was off by about (-10%).
They drove it for (1) week, reset the light, and said there was nothing wrong with the car. I was not sure when it had spark plugs replaced, so I asked them to do that while they had it and to check the compression. Apparently the techs of today do not know what compression is, as they were kind of dumbfounded by my request. (In my day we wrote the readings under the hood)
$408 later, the car still ran poorly and the light came back on in one day. Thanks to your post, I learned the vapor canister can cause the problems I was experiencing, so I ordered the OEM parts and changed it myself. (took less than 20 minutes)
Car runs like new; highway mileage between PA and MI went back up to 31 mpg.
I learned a valuable lesson and plan on keeping this beautiful Type-S for a long time, (and away from the dealer).

leonardobubbico

gonna keep this thread goin!. Had 1457 for over a year now. Passed inspection last year . Now this year. Actually today I just reset code by removing battery cable. Drove a few miles and went for inspection. Pre inspection says its clear. Check back with you tomorrow...... Never mind I took the whole evap system down and cleaned it up. Could not get those scews off to clean the shut valve. I did order the parts. Hopefully won't have to use them!

3.2TLc

Hey Leonardobubbico, chances are good that the code will eventually come back on in the near future.

05TSXPAT

iTrader: (6)

Hi.. By the way, Still no code for me. 138K now.

Good Luck.

P.

3.2TLc

Thanks to 05TSXPAT for the earlier pic posting of the EVAP 1457 fix, good to know that everything's still good !
Follow ups always help assist other 'Ziners.

cah14522

I know this is an old thread, but just to keep it alive, I want to thank the two guys who posted the DIY solution and then the detailed pictures. I had this same code and was therefore not passing emissions test with my '02 CL-S. Researched the issue and replaced both parts (cannister and valve) per instructions on this site - had to manually reset the code using a code reader, however. Drove car some miles to build up history, took it back to emissions test and passed - thankfully! So for about a $100 of parts and some DIY effort, my son and I were able to get the car back into suitable running shape.

Thanks again guys - much appreciated!

jmarkhill

smartypants-- thanks for the turorial on replacing evap canister. i replaced evap solenoid valve ($68 at my local parts store), gas cap ($10) and canister with solenoid and valve (about $130). the dealer wanted $500 just to replace evap solenoid valve. drove the car for a week after and voila-- check engine light went out (i don't drive a lot).

thanks very much.

i found removing the largest hose (the one with the click on fitting easier to remove with all the other hoses and electrical connector disconnerted and the canister hanging freely.


also, it might be good to remind folks that a jack stand is necessary unless they like living dangerously.

jmarkhill

2002 tls P1457 code-- changed solenoid/valve under hood, changed evap canister and solenoid/valve, new gas cap. check engine light went out after a day or two and three weeks later came back on. what's next? thanks in advance for any help.

Timski

Bought my '03 TL S few months back (new to the forum) with the P1457 code showing. Bought the valve form RockAuto. By the way this thread helped. Valve bolts were rusted to shit. Pulled the canister with valve attached so I could remove screws on the bench. Long story short....if your bolts are rusted on....don't waste your time trying to remove them...just but a new vapor canister and attach the new valve. Use antiseize!!! I tried vice grips....a ton of PB blaster...and finally drilled out the screws....got one screw drilled out fine then the next spun the thread inserts on the canister. So I had to order a new canister. Thanks to everyone on here....great forum.

Mifwic

What is the trick to pop off that connector? I have all the parts ready to go in and last thing I want to do now is break off the click on fitting.

Thanks

Mifwic

Figured it out...pinch the tabs with your fingers and yes it is easier with everything else removed and the canister dropped.

Newb515

Would this affect performance? My '03 is misfiring. The CEL has been on for about three years. I just always ignored it (against dealership advice) because they told me I needed to replace the EGR plug/valve but it wasn't critical. Would ignoring this have been related to the P1457 code?

musiclevelz5

A misfire is usually caused by one of your coil packs going out or totally bad. Test each coil pack to see which one is bad.

Newb515

I feel like I asked a stupid question. :P That's what I initially thought it was, but Autozone and my SO said that wouldn't be it if the code for that isn't popping up. It isn't idling weird, but it is a bit shaky on the freeway- That's what happened the last time I had to replace a coil. Plus, the TCS light was acting crazy.
I have replaced my cracked gas cap from the dealer. Then, I took it to a shop who said they would like me to drive around until the CEL comes on and bring it back because everything looked okay from what they saw except the charcoal canister looked iffy. CEL did return. Same P1457 code. I just don't have time to take it back because of work.
I guess I will do this by process of elimination.
Wish us luck.

gurot1

I finally got around to changing the purge valve (light has been on for awhile now). First note, don't leave it until a week before emission testing is due! I am jealous of all those photos I see from warmer climates where you barely see any rust. I had to degrease the canister area to see anything and then I could barely make out the screw heads! Why put screws on a part on the bottom of a car? Easiest way to do it was to remove the canister from the car. One screw didn't even have a head left due to all the corrosion. After a long struggle, ended up having to drill out the screws...the one screw just wouldn't budge and the second one's metal sleeve started to rotate when we tried pliers. We (by we I mean my cousin) ended up grinding the screw head off. We figured if I would need to buy a new canister anyways, so may as well try to use a grinder...if it damaged the canister oh, well! We could not remove the whole screw as the screw extractor that I had tried to use broke in the screw and my drill bit could not drill through the embedded metal of the extractor; however we were able to remove the screw head and separate the parts. Ended up using a self tapping bolt on the side we had been able to drill (aka disintegrate) the screw as the sleeve was still in there and not rotating, but drilling out the screw had messed up the threads. The other side we ended up zip tying together as there was a bit of metal still protruding that allowed the new valve to stay in position. It was quite messy, but after a few hours we got it separated and then back on car. It took about 138 km for the light to reset right. It reset right after I turned it on after filling up to around 3/4 tank of gas. I was getting worried as I only had about a week before my stickers needed to be renewed! It was on my way home from work 2 days after the repair that it reset. So that would be 4 cold starts and work was about 20 km each way.

I spoke to a Honda dealership and they said they just replace the valve and canister due to the major pain in the ass of taking out those screws on the older salted cars!

Chemo101

Has anyone done this replacement for a AWD? This looks like a simple fix but I've heard it's a lot more complicated with an AWD. I'm being quoted $870 (mostly labor) because they have to drop the drive system out to replace the cannister. Does that sound right? Can I actually do this myself? I'm not sure I'm comfortable dropping a cars drive system out.

Jamus22

I have a 2003 "Type-S" TL and I could not match the part number for the Canister Shut valve (PN 17310-S0X-A02) as listed on Smartypants' original post. Should I order Part# 17310-S84-L31 for the shut valve since my car is a 2003 TL "Type-S" instead?

Also, I first received code P1457 for Evaporative Emissions Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister System) a couple of month's ago. I cleared it back then hoping it was just the gas cap. I know...the code for the gas cap is P1456 but I thought I try this first anyway. Well...the check engine light came back on last week which is about almost two months since I reset the light with the same P1457 code. It's it normal for check engine light not to come back on right away? The light is off again since i cleared it last week for the second time. Due to this, should I just go ahead and replace both the Shut Valve and the Canister still, or wait until the light comes back on before replacing any parts?

Ron A

Continued here.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...2003-a-950648/