curls

From a DIY by JTso: Double Wrench Method:
(Basically the second wrench pushes on the open jaws of the first wrench, or vise-versa, creating a lot more leverage. This only works when the joint between the two wrenches has one open-ended end, and one 12-pt (closed-ended) end.)

Simba91102

Thanks for the pic and I guess I didn't present my reservations clearly. I'm familiar with the whole two wrench method, I'm just a little surprised it works that well for the stated purpose. There's a limited amount of room, there's quite a bit of pressure on the tensioner, and as I mentioned, I found myself manipulating the tensioner more than I thought I would. That was my experience, and I'm not saying the two wrench method doesn't work, it's just that it would be a last resort for me and I wouldn't recommend it. I learned long ago that one of the most helpful ways to do a job the right way is to have the right tools. As I stated earlier, for $22..... get the tool. All my opinion of course.

fernanbev

Hey
Need a water pump too @ 93k How much does this cost? Thought was serp belt, but that is fine.

PACman

What's wrong with the pump? Thought these pumps last way longer then 93K.

This is for a 2004 -
19200-RFE-003 WATER PUMP $97.54

Danny Fung

Hey PacMan, did you find out what caused the noise that you were talking about? Was it the water pump bearing? My car is having a similar noise in the engine bay area. The noise is worse if the car is in gear. I have a friend stepping on the brake while I check for the noise. I can see that the auto-tensioner is vibrating slightly and the noise is definitely from the vibration. However, I am not sure if it is caused by the failure of the auto-tensioner like you originally have thought, or by a water pump bearing like the other user said. Can other guys share some thoughts as well? Thank you guys!