Car Stalled. VSA, Oil & Brake Light On, No Codes.

Old 08-05-2007, 03:51 PM
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Car Stalled. VSA, Oil & Brake Light On, No Codes.

OK, so i searched to no avail and the engine threw no codes according to autozone so i'm out of answers right now. for the first time ever the car stalled out on me. i was stopped at a light and the brake, oil and VSA lights all came on. i believe the car stalled out after that and not before it. no codes were thrown and no other lights came on until i restarted the car.

i know my tranny is slipping so i'm wondering if it's another sign since the VSA light was on. any ideas? i know the EGR valve is a popular culprit but i would imagine i would get a code on it for insufficient flow and like i said there were no codes. i know the car has had the ignition switch recall performed and that it could be the culprit, but i would suspect my battery light and others would come on if the ignition circuit opened. any help is appreciated.

Bob

*edit* - ok, the more it think about it the codes make sense. oil pressure dropped, so the light came on, brake pressure dropped so maybe that triggered the brake light, but the VSA light? i dunno. did the computer not realize the car wasn't running anymore? my mechanic friend thinks i have a bad torque converter (so do i) but i wonder if it could have stalled the engine.
Old 08-05-2007, 08:02 PM
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Odds are, the car died and those lights came on simultaneously. Your trans having issues had nothing to do with the lights. Especially if there is no code, Those are the same lights that come on when you turn the key to the run position. Stalling now that could be any number of issues. I wouldnt really worry about it unless it happens again. I would also get your car in for the trans slipping now. You may get it good willed yet
Old 08-05-2007, 08:55 PM
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Yes- especially with a prior trans replacement- call the Service MANAGER, or better to go in person and have a chat about acura odometers read 5% high- so you are still under actual 109k miles- or 114.5 indicated if they want to do the math that way

This works! got 2 replaced for members this month with that math presented to Manager

Dont drive with a slipping trans and think nothing else will be affected
Old 08-06-2007, 06:31 AM
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well i brought it in with the slipping trans last november when it was at 98k miles and they wouldn't do anything for me because they claimed they couldn't reproduce it. now it's at the point where they should definitely notice it. i actually am planning on bringing it in next week if i can get an appointment. even if they wouldn't goodwill it now i would raise hell with corporate until they did since i brought it in for this issue when it was under warranty.

as far as the stalling goes, i'm not too worried about it but it does seem odd to me. the car runs perfectly fine other than the tranny. idle is good, acceleration is good. runs like a top. i suppose i'll have to ride that out. although if i get the trans replaced maybe i should have acura replace the ignition switch anyway. i dunno. is that something you can do yourself or does it have to be done by the dealer because of the transponder key?

thanks for the input guys.

Bob
Old 08-06-2007, 11:15 AM
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since you were in at 98- they will goodwill you no prob- use the math above if needed
this is a normal situation to them-Service MANAGER only- is who you talk to-
not the commission based service writer who will adamently say 109 is 109
while manager says- ok got the approval from corp- sorry you have a prob with trans -
see you in a few days!

I wouldnt let the dealer do anything but warranty work- their labor rate is sky high!

Auto electrics shop for the ign switch if still a prob after trans replaced

DONT WAIT - your car could suddenly go into 2nd gear on the freeway- all by itself!
Drop car at dealer- call first and ask for loaner- may have to wait a day or 2 while they diagnose and then they cut loose with the loaner, but get it in their hands ASAP- today!!!
Old 08-06-2007, 02:56 PM
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well i'm bringing it thursday but i don't get a loaner since that's not the dealership i bought it at and all their "priority customers" have loaners booked through the month, but that's ok with me.

i don't doubt that they would replace the tranny for me for free, my problem is that even though i brought it in with this problem before and they couldn't reproduce it they insisted on having me jump through hoops and do my motor mounts and 105k service first.

i would think by now that if someone with a tl in the vin range came in with complaints about this issue that they wouldn't chance it. ya know?

we'll see what they say thursday i guess.
Old 08-09-2007, 03:05 PM
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just a head's up. i brought the car to the dealer today. they couldn't reproduce the problem but after i explained the symptoms and all that to the guy he said he would call corporate and see if they would goodwill the job. long story short he called back and said they would cover it so maybe next week i'll get a new tranny.
Old 08-09-2007, 03:45 PM
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cool
Old 08-09-2007, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SatinSilverTypS
OK, so i searched to no avail and the engine threw no codes according to autozone so i'm out of answers right now. for the first time ever the car stalled out on me. i was stopped at a light and the brake, oil and VSA lights all came on. i believe the car stalled out after that and not before it. no codes were thrown and no other lights came on until i restarted the car.

i know my tranny is slipping so i'm wondering if it's another sign since the VSA light was on. any ideas? i know the EGR valve is a popular culprit but i would imagine i would get a code on it for insufficient flow and like i said there were no codes. i know the car has had the ignition switch recall performed and that it could be the culprit, but i would suspect my battery light and others would come on if the ignition circuit opened. any help is appreciated.

Bob

*edit* - ok, the more it think about it the codes make sense. oil pressure dropped, so the light came on, brake pressure dropped so maybe that triggered the brake light, but the VSA light? i dunno. did the computer not realize the car wasn't running anymore? my mechanic friend thinks i have a bad torque converter (so do i) but i wonder if it could have stalled the engine.
i think your crank pulley is loose. i had a same problem with 05 TL. Have someone towed your car and have it replaced.
Old 08-09-2007, 08:35 PM
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Pizza

Crank pulley loose- you crack me up

All the movie editing has destroyed your eyesight- didnt your mother warn you about watching too much of that stuff, and hairy palms?

SS type S had bad trans as we thought- and because had been in before with prob not found- this time they found and goodwilled a replacement transmission over miles limit
Score $4000 repair for SS-s !!
Old 08-10-2007, 07:01 AM
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Pizza - not flaming on you but i'm sure that's not the problem. i personally tightened my crank pulley to 200lb-ft when i put on my unorthodox racing pulley about a month ago. plus i had this problem before and after my 100k tuneup at which time i still had the stock pulley on, so i'm sure it wasn't loose.

01tl4tl - definitely a huge f'in score! i've been paranoid about when this thing is finally going to let loose and fail on the highway and how i would pay for it. this is such a relief to not have to worry about it anymore.

big props to DCH Heart Acura of Wappingers Falls, NY. they have always been accomodating. i had one minor issue with one of their mechanics, but in the long run if i ever buy another acura i would go with them in a heartbeat.
Old 08-17-2007, 02:48 PM
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Update

just an update. i took my intake manifold off this morning and cleaned it out real good. while i was doing that i replaced my IACV, so hopefully i shouldn't have a problem anymore. the only thing is that it's only done it to me twice in 3 weeks, so i may have to wait it out a few more weeks until i can confidently say it's solved. i have a feeling it is though. the EGR port is completely clean now and like i said the IACV is new, so that really eliminates the causes.

unless of course it's the ignition switch, although i don't think it is because i would expect other symptoms. i would imagine that the dash would light up as if you were turning the key to start it (i.e. - mtc req'd, CEL, etc.).

.....we'll see....

Bob
Old 08-17-2007, 03:05 PM
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just something i forgot to add to the above post:

i also believe the IACV was my problem because the car only stalled when i was at idle speed, never when my foot was on the gas.

Bob
Old 12-13-2007, 01:10 AM
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My car behaved similarly. Any suggestions? Please read below!

My car stalled on me!!! This all started for me 3 months ago. I changed my battery myself. Afterward, it stalled on me while I was out driving at a red light. After finding a safe place, I put the car in park and stepped on the gas few time. I was able to get the car to stall again. I figure I didn’t get the cable tight enough, so I reinstalled the battery again. Also, I brought the car into Acura dealer for an inspection. They said no code was reported. They said because I unplug the battery cable to reinstall the battery, the code could have been rested. They think it could be that the ECU rebooted after disconnecting the battery terminal and the car need to recalibrate itself. I brought their story and the car ran fine for 2 month.

It stalled on me 2 week ago while I was slowing down to make a right turn. I lost power steering and brake while driving and then the engine shut off. It was kind of scary; I had hard time getting the car under control before hitting the sidewalk median. I have 02 TL-S with 94k. Dealer looked at it; they think it is the ECU from obtained diagnostic code. P1739 – Problem in 3rd Clutch Pressure switch circuit. They changed my ECU and the car stalled again while I was slowing down at a red light after few days. I notice whole bunch of lights came on the dash. I brought the car back to the dealer; this time there is no code again. They have the car for almost a week. They said they hooked it up to diagnostic equipment and drove it for 200 miles and still can’t reproduce the problem. They took apart my car to check the ignition switch already and it looked fine. Any suggestions? Please help!
Old 12-13-2007, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SatinSilverTypS
just something i forgot to add to the above post:

i also believe the IACV was my problem because the car only stalled when i was at idle speed, never when my foot was on the gas.

Bob
What's IVAC?
Old 12-13-2007, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ramet
My car behaved similarly. Any suggestions? Please read below!

My car stalled on me!!! This all started for me 3 months ago. I changed my battery myself. Afterward, it stalled on me while I was out driving at a red light. After finding a safe place, I put the car in park and stepped on the gas few time. I was able to get the car to stall again. I figure I didn’t get the cable tight enough, so I reinstalled the battery again. Also, I brought the car into Acura dealer for an inspection. They said no code was reported. They said because I unplug the battery cable to reinstall the battery, the code could have been rested. They think it could be that the ECU rebooted after disconnecting the battery terminal and the car need to recalibrate itself. I brought their story and the car ran fine for 2 month.

It stalled on me 2 week ago while I was slowing down to make a right turn. I lost power steering and brake while driving and then the engine shut off. It was kind of scary; I had hard time getting the car under control before hitting the sidewalk median. I have 02 TL-S with 94k. Dealer looked at it; they think it is the ECU from obtained diagnostic code. P1739 – Problem in 3rd Clutch Pressure switch circuit. They changed my ECU and the car stalled again while I was slowing down at a red light after few days. I notice whole bunch of lights came on the dash. I brought the car back to the dealer; this time there is no code again. They have the car for almost a week. They said they hooked it up to diagnostic equipment and drove it for 200 miles and still can’t reproduce the problem. They took apart my car to check the ignition switch already and it looked fine. Any suggestions? Please help!
Well if the dealer cant find any codes or get it to duplicate?? It could be a dirty Throttle, or IAC thats failing or dirty but not throwing a code. It could also be the trans causing it.
Old 12-13-2007, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Soseductivesf
What's IVAC?
Search button would yield faster results

In short its the Idle Air Control Valve. IACV. Its discussed very often and is a cause of rough idles, erratic idles, cars stalling. There are plenty of threads on how to clean and where its located. Some times cleaning doesnt help and it needs to be replaced
Old 12-13-2007, 08:46 AM
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hasn't done it since i replaced the IACV in August. took maybe 20 minutes to do. autozone carries the part for cheap.
Old 12-13-2007, 09:30 AM
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SatinSilverTypS - How is your car running after replacing the IACV? Please give us an update. I am thinking of doing the same thing.
Old 12-13-2007, 08:13 PM
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Me too... I noticed my car idlin funny....It would(while in park) idle fast then slow then sound like it's gonna die then jump back to a fast idle........
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