Creaky sound on clutch pedal
04-16-2009, 12:38 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Creaky sound on clutch pedal
Hi,
I had my clutch master cylinder replaced last year at the dealership because i was hearing clicking sound whenever the clutch was pressed. After replacement, the clutch was smooth n easy to press..but now again after several months..it has become tight and I hear creaky sound whenever the clutch is pressed. What could be the problem? Is it lacking lubrication somewhere or is it the master cylinder again?
-Naresh
I had my clutch master cylinder replaced last year at the dealership because i was hearing clicking sound whenever the clutch was pressed. After replacement, the clutch was smooth n easy to press..but now again after several months..it has become tight and I hear creaky sound whenever the clutch is pressed. What could be the problem? Is it lacking lubrication somewhere or is it the master cylinder again?
-Naresh
04-16-2009, 06:23 PM
#7
200,000 mile club
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Wow...I just posted the same question in the problem section. I have been getting the creaking sound after a while of using the clutch. In the morning and for a couple hours all is great. By the end of the day, the feeling and noise comes back. It goes away when the fluid is cold again. I was told the clutch master cylinder is the problem but I wounder if I changed the fluid, it might go away? I think it's worth a try otherwise the part will be changed.
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04-16-2009, 06:26 PM
#8
I had my clutch master replaced under warranty too. Had the common, abnormal loud clunky click.
Same thing happened to me, a few weeks later with the new clutch master cylinder, I started getting the squeaks and creaks around the pedal mechanism. Sprayed a little Wurth HHS 2000 and that took care of it. I highly recommend this lubricant. It penetrates, sets as a grease, and is rubber friendly for seals and gaskets. Most good shops keep this stuff on hand.
Same thing happened to me, a few weeks later with the new clutch master cylinder, I started getting the squeaks and creaks around the pedal mechanism. Sprayed a little Wurth HHS 2000 and that took care of it. I highly recommend this lubricant. It penetrates, sets as a grease, and is rubber friendly for seals and gaskets. Most good shops keep this stuff on hand.
06-16-2009, 08:48 PM
#12
Registered Member
You will need to remove the lower plastic shield which is above the driver's footwell. There are clips at both of the corners furthest from the firewall. Just pull down on that part of the shield then bend it some to free the two rear male tabs from their openings and set it aside. This will give you easy access to the clutch pedal and its rod. Push the pedal in some and you will see an opening appear on the bottom of the rod hole. Spray a small amount of white lithium grease in there and work the pedal a few times. Put the shield back and you're done.
I just noticed you also complained about tightness. You might need to spray the pedal spring as well.
I just noticed you also complained about tightness. You might need to spray the pedal spring as well.
10-15-2009, 04:40 PM
#13
Ryan Christopher
Amazing! Search is a great tool!
joking aside, I was having the creaky noise that was described in here (to me it was a rubber on metal type squeak). It was getting annoying. At first I thought is was the sole of the shoe on the Type-S pedals. It was doing it regardless of temp. I read some posts that it was only doing this once it warmed up, mine did it from the get go. But it was not on every shift.
I started by pulling the rod pin and lubing it. Didn't fix it, so I then did the search on the forum and found something close. So I was able to get some White Lithium Grease in with the push rod and worked the pedal. When I drove it this morning, problem solved.
I really think the issue is related to the rubber seal around the push rod not being lubricated any more. As I said, it sounded like rubber on metal. This also made my shifts smoother! I think the push rod was being held when I would take my foot of the pedal for a second.
I want to give a big thanks out to the forum once again for having the solution posted up! This is such a great forum and I am glad to consider myself a member!
joking aside, I was having the creaky noise that was described in here (to me it was a rubber on metal type squeak). It was getting annoying. At first I thought is was the sole of the shoe on the Type-S pedals. It was doing it regardless of temp. I read some posts that it was only doing this once it warmed up, mine did it from the get go. But it was not on every shift.
I started by pulling the rod pin and lubing it. Didn't fix it, so I then did the search on the forum and found something close. So I was able to get some White Lithium Grease in with the push rod and worked the pedal. When I drove it this morning, problem solved.
I really think the issue is related to the rubber seal around the push rod not being lubricated any more. As I said, it sounded like rubber on metal. This also made my shifts smoother! I think the push rod was being held when I would take my foot of the pedal for a second.
I want to give a big thanks out to the forum once again for having the solution posted up! This is such a great forum and I am glad to consider myself a member!
10-15-2009, 09:49 PM
#14
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Don't know if the TL has the same arrangement, but on the S2K, the ball on the end of the actuator on the slave cylinder gets a nub or hump on the end as it wears against the release fork. Some folks have found that their creaky clutches were caused by this. The solution is to pull the slave cylinder, and to file down and polish the end of the actuator (the spherical ball), then apply fresh hi-temp urea grease.
This may be another area to look if the other steps in the thread don't work.
This may be another area to look if the other steps in the thread don't work.
05-22-2011, 08:26 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
Just wanted to bump this,
I noticed I am getting this creak or click (I can hear it but also I can feel it in my foot). This happened after I sucked out the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder and put some honda dot 3 fluid in. Now the fluid I put in had been opened prior, I heard you shouldn't use brake fluid that has been unsealed (the cap was on the entire time and tight but the seal was broken couple months back).
Do you guys think its bad fluid? Not feeling any difference in clutch pressure or anything, just the click/creak.
I noticed I am getting this creak or click (I can hear it but also I can feel it in my foot). This happened after I sucked out the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder and put some honda dot 3 fluid in. Now the fluid I put in had been opened prior, I heard you shouldn't use brake fluid that has been unsealed (the cap was on the entire time and tight but the seal was broken couple months back).
Do you guys think its bad fluid? Not feeling any difference in clutch pressure or anything, just the click/creak.
07-23-2011, 11:19 AM
#16
Instructor
bump.
so doesnt spraying the white lithium grease solve the clicking noise as well?? everytime i press down or release the clutch, it clicks 3-4 times. I can audibly hear it and I feel it as well.
so doesnt spraying the white lithium grease solve the clicking noise as well?? everytime i press down or release the clutch, it clicks 3-4 times. I can audibly hear it and I feel it as well.
. I don't think the car likes the drastic weather change lol.
08-15-2011, 12:45 PM
#18
Senior Moderator
BTW this is how it sounds just not as bad (I can only feel and hear it as it is about to reach the floor)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
09-04-2011, 09:28 PM
#19
Racer
My clutch used to make a noise as well, but not as bad as the one in the video above. As mentioned before, I took that cover off and sprayed WD 40 on all the joints and it feels smooth now.
09-05-2011, 03:18 AM
#20
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL
BTW this is how it sounds just not as bad (I can only feel and hear it as it is about to reach the floor)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
03-25-2012, 06:36 PM
#23
I had this sound and investigated the source and found it to be the clutch pedal return assistant spring. I looked at the pedal assembly as I used my hand to press the pedal in and out, every time the noise occurred I noticed the spring would slide a little bit upward and back into placed when slowly released. I greased the spring even though it already had enough from the factory and didn't help. The spring probably is worn, but doesn't have an effect of the operation of the pedal.
I ended up replaced the spring 46907-SDP-A01 and the noise is gone. Prior to install the spring I greased the bushings.
When you replace the spring make sure you don't mess the pedal height adjustment.
I ended up replaced the spring 46907-SDP-A01 and the noise is gone. Prior to install the spring I greased the bushings.
When you replace the spring make sure you don't mess the pedal height adjustment.
03-25-2012, 11:07 PM
#24
I had this sound and investigated the source and found it to be the clutch pedal return assistant spring. I looked at the pedal assembly as I used my hand to press the pedal in and out, every time the noise occurred I noticed the spring would slide a little bit upward and back into placed when slowly released. I greased the spring even though it already had enough from the factory and didn't help. The spring probably is worn, but doesn't have an effect of the operation of the pedal.
I ended up replaced the spring 46907-SDP-A01 and the noise is gone. Prior to install the spring I greased the bushings.
When you replace the spring make sure you don't mess the pedal height adjustment.
I ended up replaced the spring 46907-SDP-A01 and the noise is gone. Prior to install the spring I greased the bushings.
When you replace the spring make sure you don't mess the pedal height adjustment.
04-25-2012, 01:03 PM
#25
Intermediate
BTW this is how it sounds just not as bad (I can only feel and hear it as it is about to reach the floor)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdF1SwiseXQ
05-12-2012, 04:17 PM
#26
I JUST got this noise coming up 2 days ago... mine is not as bad as in the video, basically the entire lower portion of the clutch pedal where most of the engagement point is having the "creaking/clickpops"
As one has said it may be the weather change from cold/warm to warm/hot
So lube only helps for a few days? but keep in mind wd40 dries out even harder than it already was before the application.
Anyone with white lithium have a longer fix? also if allowing the creaking to persist will there be any long term damage effects? I need to go on a 80mi trip soon and do not have time to find/buy lube
what is tsb from above post
As one has said it may be the weather change from cold/warm to warm/hot
So lube only helps for a few days? but keep in mind wd40 dries out even harder than it already was before the application.
Anyone with white lithium have a longer fix? also if allowing the creaking to persist will there be any long term damage effects? I need to go on a 80mi trip soon and do not have time to find/buy lube
what is tsb from above post
05-12-2012, 05:31 PM
#27
2005TL(6MT)
White lithium grease only lasted about a month for me during hot weather. Last summer I tried Wurth HHS 2000 lubricant. It's still noise and friction free 10 months later. The HHS 2000 was not easy to find and it was expensive. Got it on Ebay for $28 delivered. I've used it on some other things and had great results but some cheaper lubricant probably would have worked fine in those cases.
Found this on Amazon:
"Please note that Wurth HHS-2000 has now been replaced by HHS-K, a new improved version. Wurth HHS-2000 / HHS-K lubricant is highly adhesive and resistant to high pressure. It penetrates into tight areas and sets into a high temperature grease. HHS 2000 is great for parts subjected to high pressures, impacts and vibrations. It provides long term action and corrosion protection. Resistant to water, brine, many acids and alkalis. Unaffected temperature range: -95 F to +392 F. 16.9 oz "
Could be why it was hard to find!
Found this on Amazon:
"Please note that Wurth HHS-2000 has now been replaced by HHS-K, a new improved version. Wurth HHS-2000 / HHS-K lubricant is highly adhesive and resistant to high pressure. It penetrates into tight areas and sets into a high temperature grease. HHS 2000 is great for parts subjected to high pressures, impacts and vibrations. It provides long term action and corrosion protection. Resistant to water, brine, many acids and alkalis. Unaffected temperature range: -95 F to +392 F. 16.9 oz "
Could be why it was hard to find!
08-09-2012, 09:39 PM
#28
That's odd...I started off with being able to just do WD40 every 2 months...ended up with lithium grease every 2 weeks...
switched to bearing grease injected with a straw, lasted 2 weeks to a month.
Now, used a plastic syringe to inject Molykote 44, which as similar qualities to that above (I think).
Well, starting last week...greased Friday...back by Sunday...greased Sunday, back by Monday...Tuesday I greased it REALLY well, top and bottom (when pedal NOT depressed with a piece of wood or whatever, you can rotate the 2 openings into the shaft of the master cylinder) and it lasted only 1 day. Today, at lunch it was back.
It SEEMED to be worse when raining or hot out...but now I'm convinced it just gotten worse over time. I think that I will replace that spring assist for $10 and buy some urea high temp grease and lube it up.
First I need to put a towel on the firewall to see if I can HEAR the spring making the noise. I DEFINITELY noticed that the noise is directly related to how smooth the clutch shifts in.
I'll start with this and if I have to, master cylinder next.
Here is a thread from another forum that affects older hondas...solution for them is spring replacement.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1376754
switched to bearing grease injected with a straw, lasted 2 weeks to a month.
Now, used a plastic syringe to inject Molykote 44, which as similar qualities to that above (I think).
Well, starting last week...greased Friday...back by Sunday...greased Sunday, back by Monday...Tuesday I greased it REALLY well, top and bottom (when pedal NOT depressed with a piece of wood or whatever, you can rotate the 2 openings into the shaft of the master cylinder) and it lasted only 1 day. Today, at lunch it was back.
It SEEMED to be worse when raining or hot out...but now I'm convinced it just gotten worse over time. I think that I will replace that spring assist for $10 and buy some urea high temp grease and lube it up.
First I need to put a towel on the firewall to see if I can HEAR the spring making the noise. I DEFINITELY noticed that the noise is directly related to how smooth the clutch shifts in.
I'll start with this and if I have to, master cylinder next.
Here is a thread from another forum that affects older hondas...solution for them is spring replacement.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1376754
08-10-2012, 05:34 PM
#29
2005TL(6MT)
One year after using the HHS-2000 lubricant.
It's been about a year since I tried the HHS-2000 lubricant. It's still noise and friction free as we past the hottest part of the summer. Just one application solved the problem (for now!). I give it a excellent rating but it's crazy expensive!
Lubricating the clutch pedal spring did nothing for me last year. I guess there's a couple culprits with for this problem.
Lubricating the clutch pedal spring did nothing for me last year. I guess there's a couple culprits with for this problem.
09-22-2014, 01:57 PM
#30
Intermediate
Thanks, I'll try the HHS-2000 lubricant.
My background : Clutch started clicking for a while then stopped. Clutch started creaking, found TSB, has clutch master replaced, all problems gone.
One year later, clutch clicking again. It just stopped and now into the creaking phase. Since I'm not going to replace the master every year, I'll try something other than WD40 around the pedal. Thanks for the suggestion, this forum has helped me tons in the past.
Seems this is a very common issue on these cars.
Cheers,
My background : Clutch started clicking for a while then stopped. Clutch started creaking, found TSB, has clutch master replaced, all problems gone.
One year later, clutch clicking again. It just stopped and now into the creaking phase. Since I'm not going to replace the master every year, I'll try something other than WD40 around the pedal. Thanks for the suggestion, this forum has helped me tons in the past.
Seems this is a very common issue on these cars.
Cheers,
10-01-2014, 07:47 AM
#31
Glad this got bumped.
I had this issue repeatedly with all sorts of greases shoved in there to no avail.
UNTIL, Honda High Temp Urea grease. Put some into a plastic syringe...depress clutch pedal with something and pack the master full of it from both sides. In addition, had a squeaky slave cylinder too and it worked on the ball to tranny fork.
The inside of my cabin has been creak and squeak free after my first application of this stuff nearly 2.5 years ago. It's insane. Look no further...Honda Hight Temp Urea grease.
I had this issue repeatedly with all sorts of greases shoved in there to no avail.
UNTIL, Honda High Temp Urea grease. Put some into a plastic syringe...depress clutch pedal with something and pack the master full of it from both sides. In addition, had a squeaky slave cylinder too and it worked on the ball to tranny fork.
The inside of my cabin has been creak and squeak free after my first application of this stuff nearly 2.5 years ago. It's insane. Look no further...Honda Hight Temp Urea grease.
05-06-2015, 09:43 PM
#32
Instructor
Bump for an old thread -- I'm trying to find some Wurth HHS 2000 / HHS-K lubricant but not having too much luck. The Wurth website has some available but 2 minimum and I don't need anywhere close to that. Any suggestions?
My clutch pedal just started making the squeaking / clicking noise this past week. Time to fix that!
My clutch pedal just started making the squeaking / clicking noise this past week. Time to fix that!
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Boogsephine (05-07-2015)
05-07-2015, 05:59 PM
#34
2005TL(6MT)
I just reapplied the HHS-2000 lubricant yesterday. It was about the warmest day we've had so far and after the car sat in the sun all day I could feel the beginning of the clicking problem. A couple of quick squirts next to the clutch master cylinder shaft and it's smooth again. I should be good for another year or so now. I think this is the third time since 2011 I've applied it.
When I bought the HHS-2000 back in 2011 the best price I could find was $15.00 plus $12 shipping on Ebay.
When I bought the HHS-2000 back in 2011 the best price I could find was $15.00 plus $12 shipping on Ebay.
05-07-2015, 06:03 PM
#35
Instructor
Wurth HHS-K High Pressure Lubricanting Oil - 893106050 looks to be a decent price
Looking through my box of garage stuff, I found a bottle of "Liquid Wrench/White lithium grease" that I picked up from Auto Zone when I had my motor cycle. That should cure the problem for a few weeks until I get back in town when the HHS-K arrives, right? Below is a picture I took from their website.
05-08-2015, 05:18 PM
#36
2005TL(6MT)
The lithium grease should help. I would try it, just a quick spray or two. Don't load it up especially since you're going to use the "good stuff" soon. It doesn't take much with the Wurth stuff. The HHS-K may replace the HHS-2000. Possible just a name change. Let us know how you make out with both.
05-08-2015, 06:00 PM
#37
Instructor
The lithium grease should help. I would try it, just a quick spray or two. Don't load it up especially since you're going to use the "good stuff" soon. It doesn't take much with the Wurth stuff. The HHS-K may replace the HHS-2000. Possible just a name change. Let us know how you make out with both.
05-08-2015, 08:13 PM
#38
Guys...I did the Honda High Temp Urea grease...probably been over 2 years now...one application, never got the creak/squeak/click ever again. That shit is just that good.
Get it, along with a plastic syringe to insert and squirt and turn the master around with the pedal depressed (I used to club)...then insert on the other side until it's full. It'll work.
Get it, along with a plastic syringe to insert and squirt and turn the master around with the pedal depressed (I used to club)...then insert on the other side until it's full. It'll work.
I'm sure Quagmire would. 
