Reading Check Engine Codes - NO DEALER OR AUTOZONE REQUIRED!
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Reading Check Engine Codes - NO DEALER OR AUTOZONE REQUIRED!
1. Jumper the service connector
2. Turn the ignition key to ON
3. Count the flashes on the instrument panel
4. Look up what the code means
the flashes will be a series of long blinks, a pause, followed by short ones. For example:
Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long____ShortShort
7 long and 2 short, indicates a code 72, Cyl #2 misfire.
Once you've got the code, you should have a pretty good idea of exactly what the problem is. You can troubleshoot from there.
after putting my oil pan back on my 98 V6 accord I started it up and the check engine light came on. I used a paper clip and the above method and read a code 65... Secondary O2 sensor. Apparently while moving the exhaust to get to the oil pan I accidently pulled out the connector for the O2 sensor for the catalytic converter.
Reconnected it, reset the ECU and the check engine light went away!!
I didn't even have to leave my garage!!
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I found it v6p.net while looking for a way to reset the check engine light.
Even though my asian honda tech would check it out for free I was happy not having to drive anywhere.
I'm sure it will help someone!
Even though my asian honda tech would check it out for free I was happy not having to drive anywhere.
I'm sure it will help someone!
#10
i just use this
plus i can get a bunch of other info out of this thing too like
RPM
Throttle position
Engine load
Fuel pressure
Fuel system status
Short- and long-term-fuel trim
Battery voltage
Timing advance
Coolant temperature
Air flow rate
Intake air temperature
Intake manifold pressure
Oxygen sensor voltage
all for less than 200 bucks
plus i can get a bunch of other info out of this thing too like
RPM
Throttle position
Engine load
Fuel pressure
Fuel system status
Short- and long-term-fuel trim
Battery voltage
Timing advance
Coolant temperature
Air flow rate
Intake air temperature
Intake manifold pressure
Oxygen sensor voltage
all for less than 200 bucks
#12
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Originally posted by JakeCL
i just use this
plus i can get a bunch of other info out of this thing too like
RPM
Throttle position
Engine load
Fuel pressure
Fuel system status
Short- and long-term-fuel trim
Battery voltage
Timing advance
Coolant temperature
Air flow rate
Intake air temperature
Intake manifold pressure
Oxygen sensor voltage
all for less than 200 bucks
i just use this
plus i can get a bunch of other info out of this thing too like
RPM
Throttle position
Engine load
Fuel pressure
Fuel system status
Short- and long-term-fuel trim
Battery voltage
Timing advance
Coolant temperature
Air flow rate
Intake air temperature
Intake manifold pressure
Oxygen sensor voltage
all for less than 200 bucks
#14
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by greenmonster
The good old paperclip and count the flashes works on most OBD cars. Just gotta find the documentation for what the codes mean.
Great Reference
The good old paperclip and count the flashes works on most OBD cars. Just gotta find the documentation for what the codes mean.
Great Reference
http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp
Off to the archives...
#16
Team Owner
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Okay i've been trying to do this but the flashes I get don't correspond with anything listed. I get 5 long flashes from the Check engine light. I also get flashes from the ABS light. 9 longs _ 3 Short... then 3 longs_ 5 short
Help
Help
#17
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Great... Service Connector?
Wow all fantastic stuff...
OK but the thing is I can't find the service connector.. I'm a pure newbie. I just bought this car 3 weeks back with 105 K miles on it. And right after an oil change at walmart my Check Engine light came on (10 days back)
I read this post and some other ones and figured that the service connector is behind the glove box somewhere but I couldn't find it
Can someone help please?
Thanks...
OK but the thing is I can't find the service connector.. I'm a pure newbie. I just bought this car 3 weeks back with 105 K miles on it. And right after an oil change at walmart my Check Engine light came on (10 days back)
I read this post and some other ones and figured that the service connector is behind the glove box somewhere but I couldn't find it
Can someone help please?
Thanks...
#19
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Originally Posted by mrsteve
It is between the seat heater switches, under the 12v accessory. You remove a small plastic cover.
Sorry I guess I forgot to mention it's 97 CL 2.2 Premium... it doesn't have heated seats. But anyway I couldn't find it under the 12 v accessory...
#21
i got a po130 code so wat exactly am i suppose to do? i checked the o2 sensor behind the catbak and it looks fine, but the check engine light is still on. it came on after i got my exust system changed... is the primary o2 sensor the one in the front or the one in the bak? i'm a total newbie so any help would be very thankful... oh yeah... and i have to get my car inspected soon u think i would pass with the check engine light on?
#24
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Originally Posted by ankit_RENAMED
Sorry I guess I forgot to mention it's 97 CL 2.2 Premium... it doesn't have heated seats. But anyway I couldn't find it under the 12 v accessory...
#25
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It's been probably posted somewhere on the forum, but could be useful here.
Last week a Check Engine Light came on while driving. My car has 39k miles.
Some 500 miles ealier my tank cap was stolen on Shell
I bought there a new one, but as it turned out later it didn't match perfectly to the inlet. I used a tape to seal it - to no avail. According to owner's manual, after 3 trips the light should die out after sealing the inlet.
So I did a test described above.
It showed misfiring on all 6 cylinders !!
If it was true the car would shake like an old diesel during startup and immediately die. My car was driving fine. I was almost sure it was related with improper fuel cap and emission systems.
So I simply disconnected the + from the batteries, went to work, reconnected it and the Check Engine Light didn't flash anymore.
I did it al after a consultation with an Acura employee.
In majority of cases CEL shows up just to bug us that emission system detected some slight "deviation".
Greetings
PS. Of course I need an original Acura tank cap.
Last week a Check Engine Light came on while driving. My car has 39k miles.
Some 500 miles ealier my tank cap was stolen on Shell
I bought there a new one, but as it turned out later it didn't match perfectly to the inlet. I used a tape to seal it - to no avail. According to owner's manual, after 3 trips the light should die out after sealing the inlet.
So I did a test described above.
It showed misfiring on all 6 cylinders !!
If it was true the car would shake like an old diesel during startup and immediately die. My car was driving fine. I was almost sure it was related with improper fuel cap and emission systems.
So I simply disconnected the + from the batteries, went to work, reconnected it and the Check Engine Light didn't flash anymore.
I did it al after a consultation with an Acura employee.
In majority of cases CEL shows up just to bug us that emission system detected some slight "deviation".
Greetings
PS. Of course I need an original Acura tank cap.
#26
Hi everyone! I'm a newbie to the board and just picked up a 2003 3.2 CL Type-S, MT after losing my jdm fronted, turbo'd integra in an accident.
Anyways, the CEL just popped up so I'm trying to pull the code but can't locate the service connector. I believe I've found the OBDII diagnostic connector under the dash on the driver, right side, but is there a 2-pin service connector that I can jump with a paper clip to pull the code like my old Integra did? If not, is there a way to jump the OBDII connector w/o shorting anything out? The pics are dead in this thread.
Thanks!
Anyways, the CEL just popped up so I'm trying to pull the code but can't locate the service connector. I believe I've found the OBDII diagnostic connector under the dash on the driver, right side, but is there a 2-pin service connector that I can jump with a paper clip to pull the code like my old Integra did? If not, is there a way to jump the OBDII connector w/o shorting anything out? The pics are dead in this thread.
Thanks!
#29
found it:
IT'S PINS 4, AND 9
THIS COVERS ALL OBDII VEHICLES.
TURN ENGINE OFF FIRST.
acura rsx type s k20z1 k20 k series dc5 ep3 honda civic si
IT'S PINS 4, AND 9
THIS COVERS ALL OBDII VEHICLES.
TURN ENGINE OFF FIRST.
acura rsx type s k20z1 k20 k series dc5 ep3 honda civic si
Last edited by 570berg; 02-17-2012 at 05:47 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by 570berg:
civicdrivr (02-18-2012),
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#30
sources cross referrence
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=37
http://www.ehow.com/how_2214653_read-obd2-codes.html
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2760775
"acura rsx type s read engine codes with using paper clip"
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http://www.ehow.com/how_2214653_read-obd2-codes.html
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2760775
"acura rsx type s read engine codes with using paper clip"
paperclip, obd, obd2, 2, ii, obdii, trouble codes, diagnostic codes, without scanner, diy, flashing, blinking, dash code, codes, check engine light, cel, ecm, pcm, ecu, emc, ems, diagnostic trouble codes, dtc, honda
Last edited by 570berg; 02-17-2012 at 05:56 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by 570berg:
civicdrivr (02-18-2012),
Ron A (02-17-2012)
#31
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Nice job searching
However, the k-series forum link says to pull fuse #6 in the engine bay fuse box. In the CL, it is fuse #13 in the passenger side fusebox, a 15amp fuse for the clock. You will not lose your radio presets this way, but you will need to reset the clock.
Ive got an old bluetooth OBDII reader that doesnt work, Im going to strip it and jump those two connectors so I can easily plug in whenever a code needs to be read.
However, the k-series forum link says to pull fuse #6 in the engine bay fuse box. In the CL, it is fuse #13 in the passenger side fusebox, a 15amp fuse for the clock. You will not lose your radio presets this way, but you will need to reset the clock.
Ive got an old bluetooth OBDII reader that doesnt work, Im going to strip it and jump those two connectors so I can easily plug in whenever a code needs to be read.
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